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Installing 2006+ ECU and motor on 2002-2005 6th-gen


kaldek

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Hey K. Have you thought about megasquirt? I don't know of anyone using it on a vtec'ish engine. People seem to rave about it since it's so customizable.

I wonder if Honda changed up the ignition with the newer models? You're still using the newer 12 point injectors, correct?

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Hey K. Have you thought about megasquirt? I don't know of anyone using it on a vtec'ish engine. People seem to rave about it since it's so customizable.

I wonder if Honda changed up the ignition with the newer models? You're still using the newer 12 point injectors, correct?

Yeah the only thing that's 2002-era from fuel injection is the fuel pump, coils and throttle body. Oh, of course all the sensors are 2002 sensors but the parts are the same.

Anyway I had the fuel pump out this arvo just to take a look. Looks clean externally aside for some crud on the bottom of the intake screen which I removed. Bike still running shit - revs dipping and then recovering. I had left the fan disconnected so now that's back she is at least rideable - I need her tomorrow to get to work because I'm unable to get hold of my dad's VFR750 for a couple of days.

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Righto, I'm off to DazMac's house tomorrow morning to drop this ECU into his bike (2010 Aussie VFR) for 10 minutes to see how she runs. We'll know pretty much straight away if it's stuffed!

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I'm sure you have it correct but check the spark plug wiring is going to correct plug, easy test is temp of each header. I say this because I once mixed up the front plugs & bike would run & even idle on 2 rear cylinders but idle when bike started to warm up would rise & fall & motor would cut out now & then. Motor still seemed to rev ok with throttle, was going to start looking at many things & just happened to do a header temp test & bingo front 2 cold compared to rear. Its a very easy mistake to make & the motor can run unloaded surprisingly well on 2 cylinders.

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I'm sure you have it correct but check the spark plug wiring is going to correct plug, easy test is temp of each header. I say this because I once mixed up the front plugs & bike would run & even idle on 2 rear cylinders but idle when bike started to warm up would rise & fall & motor would cut out now & then. Motor still seemed to rev ok with throttle, was going to start looking at many things & just happened to do a header temp test & bingo front 2 cold compared to rear. Its a very easy mistake to make & the motor can run unloaded surprisingly well on 2 cylinders.

Nup, definitely not that as bike runs fine on the power when riding it hard.

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Well, the test on DazMac's bike didn't work because it seems that Aussie bikes with HISS wiring in the wiring harness won't work with USA model ECUs that don't have the HISS programming in them. His bike wouldn't prime the fuel pump at all with my USA model ECU fitted.

Dagnabbit, this means I still can't consider the ECU either good or bad. More questions again than answers...

Oh, the bike runs fine under power by the way - above 6400rpm she's sweet as.

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Kaldek - I"m late to this party - but need to say - WOW. YOu're doing a serious effort here - and I hope you nail it!

Careful with those damn fuel pumps in and out of the tanks - the flanges are more than a little temperamental.

I'll be watching with fingers crossed for ya! Keep up the great experiment!

You mentioned that others have done this project - anyone from VFRD?

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I'd think the ECU is fine.

Solid state electronics tend to either work or don't work. 100% either way.

They seldom "sort of" work.

I agree with you completely. And the strangest part is that the bike is fine under power at high revs-- you can pin it in 3rd gear and she will pull like a train to redline. Starting it cold though, it coughs and splutters and then revs its head off (up to 4,000rpm) with constant 500rpm dips until it heats up, at which point it stabilises but you can hear it misfiring. After that, it's fairly rideable but you can feel it hesitating all the time.

Last night I went through the parts catalogue and confirmed that all the things I was interested in are the same part code. This includes engine coolant sensor, MAP sensor, Cam position sensor, crankshaft (ignition pulse) generator, and coils.

When the new fuel pump and coils arrive, I will fit them ASAP. If nothing changes, I'm going to dig into the wiring harness and measure the resistance of every wire. That's going to be a hoot.

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Kaldek - I"m late to this party - but need to say - WOW. YOu're doing a serious effort here - and I hope you nail it!

Careful with those damn fuel pumps in and out of the tanks - the flanges are more than a little temperamental.

I'll be watching with fingers crossed for ya! Keep up the great experiment!

You mentioned that others have done this project - anyone from VFRD?

Yeah it was our member named CBR6400F4i. He tends to lurk rather than post now; I think he sold the bike? His was an American 2004 model getting an American 2006 ECU and injectors so it wasn't as big a change as mine.

My wife has already told me to just STFU and buy a 2009 VFR800 in candy glory red. In the meantime I have my dad's 1997 VFR while he goes to England for 3 months. If I haven't fixed the 2002 by then, that may be my exit strategy.

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My wife hass already told me to just STFU and buy a 2009 VFR800 in candy glory red. In the meantime I have my dad's 1997 VFR while he goes to England for 3 months. If I haven't fixed the 2002 by then, that may be my exit strategy.

Scratch that. Just found this wrecked 2006 model 70 kilometres away.

Let's see. I'm gonna need new clutch plates soon ($200) new front disks ($800)....that's a thousand dollars effectively off the purchase price right there.

I think I'm just gonna do it.

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Scratch that. Just found this wrecked 2006 model 70 kilometres away.

Let's see. I'm gonna need new clutch plates soon ($200) new front disks ($800)....that's a thousand dollars effectively off the purchase price right there.

I think I'm just gonna do it.

Adrenalin who is selling that bike get there stock from auctions, if your looking to go that route go to some auctions like Manheimfowles (Australia) they even have auctions online, as an example a stolen reclaimed VFR800 04 that only had a few scratches & barrel destroyed went for $2200.

Also if you don't go that route & need parts for your bike I have a set of oem rotors forsale :-)

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Adrenalin who is selling that bike get there stock from auctions, if your looking to go that route go to some auctions like Manheimfowles (Australia) they even have auctions online, as an example a stolen reclaimed VFR800 04 that only had a few scratches & barrel destroyed went for $2200.

Yeah...figured that might be the case. What do you reckon their markup is?

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Hah my wife is on Facebook right now telling me to buy a new bike,

Quote:

"I really wanted you to buy one last year but you decided to 'fix' the one that is giving you grief still"

She's talking about the VFR1200 too - which at the time was $28,990 on road!

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Ed, check your spark plugs for condition. I'm curious...

Every time I check 'em, they look fecking awesome mate. I keep expecting them to be black, or severely white, but nope they always look perfect. They were replaced last May when the bike first started playing up.

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I've been doing a lot of thinking today and I think I'm going to buy that wrecked '06 bike. I really don't want to fork out $13,000+ for a brand new VFR.

About the only thing I don't know how to do on this bike is strip the engine down into its component parts. If I know that much, why wouldn't I do it?

I have two paths forward:

  1. Strip both bikes down and put the new engine in my frame (no registration or insurance changes)
  2. Put my plastics and tank on new bike (new rego required, plus insurance $100 more than it is right now because donor bike is newer)

Option 2 has less hassle, because it would take me about two hours to do the whole job....

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Which is why I fully suspect you will go with option 1... :biggrin:

That is exactly what my wife would say!

Most times I am that way myself, mate. If there is a more difficult path that will teach me more, I will take it - though it is not always intentional. :mellow:

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Anyway for those that are curious how this thing has derailed so badly, I would like to say that I don't think the problems I've got are with the new ECU and wiring. In fact, I would call the job a success as not only did I remove the old harness completely and replace it with the new one, but I altered all the indicator wiring and ignition switch wiring successfully. The bike immediately fired up and ran.

Whilst it has a misfire now and strange high rpm cold idle, this cannot be directly attributed to a wiring harness and ECU swap. It's also worth pointing out that another member already performed this mod on a 2004 USA bike to conver it to a 2006-spec ECU and wiring harness. He confirmed that he found the improvement so good he removed his Power commander.

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