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Installing 2006+ ECU and motor on 2002-2005 6th-gen


kaldek

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BTW did you do THIS yet?

No actually I haven't done that; never had any issues with the front end wiring so never bothered. That connector block BTW is much easier to get to on the 2006+ wiring harness as it's right by the blue and white connector blocks. So if I ever NEED to work on it in future it should be a tad easier.

I just mentioned this because since I fixed this POS connector, all my surging issues have dissapeared... and it just so happens that lots of ground wires from lots of sensors involved in the FI system run through this POS connector... it may be worth trying before you become prematurely bald whilst attempting a complete wiring harness transplant...

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I just mentioned this because since I fixed this POS connector, all my surging issues have dissapeared... and it just so happens that lots of ground wires from lots of sensors involved in the FI system run through this POS connector... it may be worth trying before you become prematurely bald whilst attempting a complete wiring harness transplant...

Eh? The ground wires for nearly every sensor on the bike don't run through that block, they run through the block in the main harness, between the left-hand side of the engine and the frame. I'll take some pics if you like.

The block you're talking about is the sub harness ground block. Not saying it couldn't affect the ECU though - it's just not where the ECU and its sensors are grounded.

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I just mentioned this because since I fixed this POS connector, all my surging issues have dissapeared... and it just so happens that lots of ground wires from lots of sensors involved in the FI system run through this POS connector... it may be worth trying before you become prematurely bald whilst attempting a complete wiring harness transplant...

Eh? The ground wires for nearly every sensor on the bike don't run through that block, they run through the block in the main harness, between the left-hand side of the engine and the frame. I'll take some pics if you like.

The block you're talking about is the sub harness ground block. Not saying it couldn't affect the ECU though - it's just not where the ECU and its sensors are grounded.

OK... we just assumed that was the case... but if the truth be told, you've certainly studied that harness to the nth degree... nonetheless, I have noticed a massive difference in that the surging (which was scarey at VTEC rpms (as if it jumped in and out of VTEC mode), virtually dissapeared, even when the bike is really hot, which is when it usually gets really pronounced.

And have you considered my suggestion of getting your hand on a RHS handlebar switch module?? Just to avoid cutting and splicing into the harness so much...

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And have you considered my suggestion of getting your hand on a RHS handlebar switch module?? Just to avoid cutting and splicing into the harness so much...

Nope! Using a US module would actually require more work as I'd need to buy the hazard relay for it ($50+) and both the turn signal diodes ($13 each) just to get the hazard function.

As it stands, my re-wiring job for the right-hand handlebar needed no splicing, just jumpering. The left-side handlebar is the only one that required a little tweaking to make the high-beam-flash work.

I'm quite enjoying the process anyway. :)

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gallery_380_6053_1089175.jpg

Basic wiring harness power test This is the initial test of the US wiring harness. Both the starter relay positive and Main Fuse B positive were wired to the battery along with the main ground wires. No fuses were used - NAUGHTY!

I have a USA model 2006 dashboard lying around, so first I checked the clock worked as soon as battery power was applied, and then I jumpered the ignition connector to emulate the key being in the ON position to confirm the dashboard powered up.

Before performing this test I had already re-wired the ignition switch to the Aussie 2002 specifications and bypassed the hazard relay. I could not test that yet though as I'd need to strip all the relays off my bike and I honestly couldn't be shagged tonight.

Note: iPads are very handy for looking at wiring diagrams!

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Things are progressing folks. I've had the bike apart tonight to look at all the main harness routing points and it looks like routing the new harness through the rear end is going to be such a major pain the butt that I need to remove the entire rear plastic fender assembly.

This entails removing the exhaust though, which is annoying more than anything. Ah well!

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The rear harness you don't need to remove anything but the seat, battery cover & duct tail, the harness feeds from LHS where battery is & with duct tail removed there is room it just looks like there isn't due to the link brake proportional valve is there.

Question, if you have of used UK harness & ECU which has hiss as well would you have same problems?

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Question, if you have of used UK harness & ECU which has hiss as well would you have same problems?

No, just different ones. UK still has hazard lights for most years and I would have needed to buy an ECU with a matching coded key. Programming my keys into it wouldn't have been too hard.

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The rear harness you don't need to remove anything but the seat, battery cover & duct tail, the harness feeds from LHS where battery is & with duct tail removed there is room it just looks like there isn't due to the link brake proportional valve is there.

You speak from experience? That darn PCV valve is indeed the problem I was looking at. Needing to get the coil plugs routed past it is what had me having nightmwares, because those plugs are huge.

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Righty-O then, wiring harness is installed! I need to take some pictures and video of the important bits and post them. Not that I've tried starting the bike, mind you!!

I did remove the rear plastic undertail (Honda calls call it Rear Fender B) in the end, as it was stupidly easy to remove (four bolts) and made routing of the harness past the battery tray and PCV area much easier.

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It's Aliiiiiive!!

She runs, not sure how she rides though. The motor climbed to 3,000rpm during warmup as well, which is odd. I have to face the truth that I will need to deal with the potential issues of the bike these parts came off; always fun.

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Bit late I know & yes removing plastic makes it easy but that valve you can just remove the 2 bolts & bend it up for more room, I don't have that problem as there is none of it on my bike as no link brakes due to CBR1000RR front end install, I don't even have that steel bkt the valves mount on in the way which leaves more room for the Penske shock remote compression line.

When bike was at 3000rpm was your pc loaded with a map? during warm up they normally rev to 2500rpm due to the wax unit so 500rpm out isn't much & might even be normal for the 06> but as I have an 04 can't answer that.

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When bike was at 3000rpm was your pc loaded with a map? during warm up they normally rev to 2500rpm due to the wax unit so 500rpm out isn't much & might even be normal for the 06> but as I have an 04 can't answer that.

It's also important to recognize that I may have had other mechanical problems that didn't show up before. I have just thrown a rock into a pond; let's see what the ripples do.

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OK I've taken the bike for a ride and she's running just as well as she was before. I have the Powercommander disconnected at the moment for a baseline analysis and I have to say that compared to the 2002 ECU, this is a VERY differently fuelled beast now. Having ridden with the original ECU for nigh on ten years, the VTEC-at-6400rpm takes you by complete surprise and lets you know that this engine REALLY needed it. Even at a 6400rpm engagement the torque jump is huge - they could probably bring it down some more and still have a nice power boost. Also, the response at small throttle positions feels better than the original ECU as well. I guess you would call it a lot more gradual.

Anyway, I'm definitely having hard starting issues when cold though - but since it's ONLY when cold I figure this is a mechanical problem with the fast idle system, or directly related to my fuel pump (which is being replaced soon). I had issues very similar to this with the bike only a month or so ago with the old ECU, so I'm not laying any blame on the new parts yet.

I will say that I'm very happy with my re-wiring job to make all the switches work as designed. It felt like my Everest initially, but then I just banged the solution out in a couple of hours. Yay me! :cheerleader:

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And you can sell off your previous wiring harness and ecu to defray he cost!

Ahh...maybe not! I had to cut a few connectors off the old harness for the indicators and speed sensor. Suppose I could sell the 2002 ECU, but I'd need to liberate myself of one of my keys, but since I have three sets of keys I could do that!

Wonder what the market is like for ECUs. Probably not huge (says the guy who just bought an ECU).

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First big ride to and from work today, and I'm getting pre-ignition (pinging/pinking) under load.

Very interesting! I don't think the ECU is causing this, I think what it's doing is showing up the problems with the fuel pump that were not as evident before. I mean, I hadn't ridden without the Powercommander fitted for ages and without it active I've got a combination of Motad headers (probably makes it run a bit leaner), a likely leaner base fuel map in the 2006 ECU, and what based on all evidence so far is a dodgy fuel pump.

So, no huge surprises the engine pinked a bit. I've got the PCV hooked back up with a nice fat rich fuel map in it (generic tune from Dynojet). There are huge numbers in this map, like +20 all over the place so I'd say the 2006-2009 models are indeed very lean from factory.

Have to wait a week for the fuel pump to arrive now. I'll go and test my fuel flow again to see if it's gotten worse. If it's dropped down any more I'll park the bike until I replace the pump.

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Right, fuel pump tested and still providing same amount of fuel as before - 130 mils in 10 seconds (too low). No worse than before, so with the PCV and map set up I'll still ride it.

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OK, another ride to work today and things are going downhill. I seem to have picked up a serious misfire, which is like my previous problems but worse. Also my fan isn't coming on so I think I have left the fan disconnected or the fan fuse has blown.

Agggggh.....I'm now deep in the hole and the only way to go is keep digging. I'm in too shitty a mood to go into much detail at the moment but I'll keep y'all posted.

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Hang in there, take a break or whatever to let you clear your mind a little and renew your drive when you feel up to it! :fing02:

Were all impressed on the scope of what you've taken on! :cheerleader:

BR

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Hang in there, take a break or whatever to let you clear your mind a little and renew your drive when you feel up to it! :fing02:

Were all impressed on the scope of what you've taken on! :cheerleader:

BR

Thanks Bailey. You always come back with support and I really appreciate it. Truly. :fing02:

I'll get there. I'm going to borrow my father's '97 VFR while I work on this so I can keep the bike in bits rather than reassembling it every night. The problem is evident even at idle so if I can trace and fix it there I think it will be licked. I need to have some patience and wait for my spares though - coils and fuel pump on their way. I'm very impatient, so having a spare bike to ride around on will help force me to back off a bit and do more thinking and less rushing.

Having my current probe which Seb shipped to me will also help. It means I will be able to run actual tests which can tell me whether a part is or is not failing, rather than take a guess and then doubt myself.

Ultimately I'm hoping this problem is not the new parts, but rather them showing the existing problem in a worse light. It certainly behaves just like it did, but worse.

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Hang in there, take a break or whatever to let you clear your mind a little and renew your drive when you feel up to it! :fing02:

Were all impressed on the scope of what you've taken on! :cheerleader:

BR

+1.gif I totally agree. Kaldek - you go where others fear to tread (and teach us along the way)! If I were doing this I might be inclined to keep it private until I knew it was working - but you've got it out there for everyone to see. One thing I like about wrenching is that it helps me know my machine inside and out and watching you do so vicariously helps me even more. I second the thumbs up and the encouragement to keep at it.

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