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Installing 2006+ ECU and motor on 2002-2005 6th-gen


kaldek

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Sent you pm about duct tail, might have been lost with forum update the other day.

Nah I got it, just been too sick to respond. How does $80 plus shipping sound?

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Kaldek,

You're gonna have to come along to one of the OzVFR rides now, so we can do some bench racing, kick the tyres, whilst having a beer or 3, I'm sure you've got some great stories now about your bike.

Cheers

AB

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Sent you pm about duct tail, might have been lost with forum update the other day.

Nah I got it, just been too sick to respond. How does $80 plus shipping sound?

Done send me pm with bank details & shipping cost to 2223.

Also if you have a rear brake lever in good condition I take that too.

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Just curious, what was wrong with the Donor Bike? Why not just make the '06 your new Bike and ride it?

Salvage title.

Never stopped me before! :cool:

Always able to get a rebuild title and Ins. :beer:

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Yeah but although Kaldek could have gotten it titled, he would have had to pay a bunch of money in fees to have it done, so he went the other way. Now he has a clean title for basically a 2006 with 2002 frame and bodywork.

Whatever floats yer boat. I've got a 1999 motor with a 2010 replacement frame and a salvage title. Ima keep the reciept for the new frame in the factory service manual for if I ever sell it. Then I can show that it was indeed a new frame and not some used POS off eBay.

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Yeah but although Kaldek could have gotten it titled, he would have had to pay a bunch of money in fees to have it done, so he went the other way. Now he has a clean title for basically a 2006 with 2002 frame and bodywork.

It's probably cost me more in the long run though. I really ran myself into the ground getting it done, and now have the virus to end all viruses. Have hardly slept, my hips ache, can barely swallow and have a fever which has been coming and going since Monday. Off to the docs in 20 minutes but I'll end up taking the whole week off.

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Having felt a little better today, I did go out to the garage to take a peek at the bike. Cold starting was shite - really rough idle and easy stalling so I pulled the plugs and they were black. Now I've never had that issue on my bike so I swapped out the injectors from mine. Took her for a good hard ride and couldn't really fault it; even pulled the plugs again and they were the good colour with all deposits burned off.

However, it's definitely got a slight tick from one of the valve buckets. Since I'm in no mood to go tearing it down for a while, how long do you folks think I can leave it before tackling valve clearances. I'd hazard a guess and say it's never had its valve clearances checked - it's 10 thousand k's over spec at the moment which is nothing as far as I'm concerned. I know BR has never had his checked but then maybe he's deaf or likes ticking noises? :laughing6-hehe:

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However, it's definitely got a slight tick from one of the valve buckets.

Are you sure it isn't a hydraulic chain adjuster for the cam chain? A lifter tick would be a scary thing since wear would cause the clearance to shrink, not grow, so they 'tighten up' with mileage.

Noise from the chain adjusters, aka CCT's, is common on Honda motorcycle from the beginning of their use to today.

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I more likely to agree it's just cam chain noise, did you do an oil change after swap. Also simply winding the adjusters back & letting them release again works wonders.

Also because bike has been sitting awhile before you bought it might just need a good run so everything gets nice & hot & remove any carbon build up etc.

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Are you sure it isn't a hydraulic chain adjuster for the cam chain? A lifter tick would be a scary thing since wear would cause the clearance to shrink, not grow, so they 'tighten up' with mileage.

Heck, it could well be the CCTs. Oh wait I just happen to have an almost new set in that engine sitting over there in the corner. WIN!

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Wow, I just pulled a VERY stuck-open thermostat out of the new motor. I mean it was WIDE open; no wonder the motor was a bag of spanners on cold start - the ECT probably saw a decreasing temperature as soon as the engine was spinning and adjusted fuel mixture to "suit". Which of course was wrong and just caused the motor to stall (and stink out the garage with the smell of fuel).

gallery_380_3610_36610.jpg

Now THAT'S a stuck open thermostat

This all happened somewhere around the time I removed the old coolant. What is it with VFRs and stuck thermos?

In general though, you gotta love EFI systems which are all super-smart but can't detect things like leaking fuel pressure regulators, and stuck-open thermostats when the intake air temperature has no correlation to it. My kingdom for an OBD-II compliant ECU!

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Thats no small job.

You must know these things inside out by now.

I'm at the point where unless you ask me to split the crankcases, I kinda shrug my shoulders and get into it.

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Alrighty, a cold start test has just shown that by replacing the thermostat I've cured the excessive richness at startup. Yay me!

I think the fast idle wax unit might be a bit weak though, as while it runs OK the idle is too low when cold - holding open the idle valves improves it so I do believe the problem is around that area. Maybe there's some air in the lines still. Easy enough to test and clean thankfully.

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With all the troubles I've heard about RE: failed wax units, I wonder what was wrong with the lever and cable that came before??

Zero difficulty with mine since 1999. Lube the cable occasionally, go ride. I don't see the problem here.

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With all the troubles I've heard about RE: failed wax units, I wonder what was wrong with the lever and cable that came before??

Zero difficulty with mine since 1999. Lube the cable occasionally, go ride. I don't see the problem here.

lol - wax unit, yeah whats that? :biggrin:

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Thats no small job.

You must know these things inside out by now.

I'm at the point where unless you ask me to split the crankcases, I kinda shrug my shoulders and get into it.

Even that's not so bad once you get into it. Heck, that hard bit is getting the engine out and you're well proficient at that!

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With all the troubles I've heard about RE: failed wax units, I wonder what was wrong with the lever and cable that came before??

Zero difficulty with mine since 1999. Lube the cable occasionally, go ride. I don't see the problem here.

Totally agreed! Two Honda FI bikes and two manual fast idles. No problems, and no coolant in my throttle body.

I also don't buy the rest of the FI "improvements" over the years since the 98-99 VFR. Haven't seen any real world improvements in economy or rideability from '00 onwards.

Ok, sorry! Rant off... ;)

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That wax unit is definitely stuffed - it doesn't seem to be doing much of anything really! Rode to work and back for the first time today (55 mile round trip) and had no problems.

Something else interesting though is that using my existing thermostat in the new motor the ECT reports 82 degrees C running temp rather than 76 degrees on the old motor. Only difference is I'm running only water at the moment which I'll flush out and replace with coolant once I fix the wax unit.

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