Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 9, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 9, 2011 OK, so AC voltage checks out on both RC and PC. However, the book also suggests checking for continuity between the stator plug and ground. Should NOT be continuity. It seems as though both bikes DO have continuity to ground on all three connectors. Low continuity plus the AC voltage being ok leads me to surmise that the stators both charge, but not at full capacity. Which is where I'm at currently. Haha, currently! Get it?! The VFR, by the way, with new Ricks stator has zero continuity on the plug. That tells me I'm performing the test correctly, at least. So, seriously? I need Two new stators at the same time? The only similarity between the circumstances being the MOTY. Coincidence? Five years and over 55,000 miles difference in the two machines. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Seems pretty weird. Not sure how the battery would damage both stators though. Hope it's not a trend or I'll be letting you know soon when mine fails. I still have the stock regulator and stator in my 2001 VFR with 44k miles on it. The MOTY battery was put in about a month ago without any problems yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 9, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 9, 2011 Seems pretty weird. Not sure how the battery would damage both stators though. Hope it's not a trend or I'll be letting you know soon when mine fails. I still have the stock regulator and stator in my 2001 VFR with 44k miles on it. The MOTY battery was put in about a month ago without any problems yet. Otherwise, stator diagnosis seems pretty sound? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 Otherwise, stator diagnosis seems pretty sound? Yes, continuity between any 2 of the three yellow wires should be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms. There should be no continuity between any of the 3 yellow wires to ground. That would indicate the stator is shorted to ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 9, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 9, 2011 Well, I'm in no way qualified to determine whether or not the MOTY led to my Stator(s) failing. Buuuut, I've since removed them all. Including from the VFR which had no symptoms of impending failure. It is the only non-stock, non OE stator. Bought a new AGM yesterday, charged it up overnight, and stuck it in there today. Again, the VFR had no problems with the MOTY. 1200+ miles over the 4 1/2 days of TMac. Strong charging, started every time, never below 13 at key on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted June 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 9, 2011 wow...you are the STATOR KILLER.............. when we gonna work on 'em? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted June 9, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 9, 2011 Otherwise, stator diagnosis seems pretty sound? Yes, continuity between any 2 of the three yellow wires should be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms. There should be no continuity between any of the 3 yellow wires to ground. That would indicate the stator is shorted to ground. Shorting to ground likely indicates that the insulation on the stator windings has broken down somewhere. You would normally think that the wire has to burn up before it gets through the enamel on the copper wire. I'd be interested what those stators look like once you get them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 10, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 10, 2011 wow...you are the STATOR KILLER.............. when we gonna work on 'em? Got to find money for parts. Unfortunately I just found something completely unnecessary that I must have! Soooo, when we gonna put your the '01 back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted June 11, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2011 I was holding out hope as I negotiated for a 4th gen that MiniCarver found on eBay...we were high bidder when the auctio ended yesterday and I had spoken to the seller twice, just a few hundred dollars apart so I called my cousin who happened to be working in the Charleston, SC area to go look at it today. He got the call back from the guy just as he was on the way there that someone else had just bought it. Mini is pretty bummed. I was hoping to turn my 2001 into to a track only bike (at least a monoposto) that might occasionally see a run up to NC or North GA.... Still looking for a $1500 or so VFR for Mini - would prolly be easier than trying to re-link the brakes and put all that other 5th gen crap back on the '01. Soooo....what did you buy now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 11, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2011 I'll let ya know when it's finalized! But I did find a left side engine cover including stator for the RC51. Was cheap, hopefully worthwhile... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 11, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2011 Well, I'm in no way qualified to determine whether or not the MOTY led to my Stator(s) failing. Buuuut, I've since removed them all. Including from the VFR which had no symptoms of impending failure. It is the only non-stock, non OE stator. Bought a new AGM yesterday, charged it up overnight, and stuck it in there today. Again, the VFR had no problems with the MOTY. 1200+ miles over the 4 1/2 days of TMac. Strong charging, started every time, never below 13 at key on. My R/R went out shortly after installing the MOTY, not sure if it was the cause but did not like the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 11, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2011 Well, I'm in no way qualified to determine whether or not the MOTY led to my Stator(s) failing. Buuuut, I've since removed them all. Including from the VFR which had no symptoms of impending failure. It is the only non-stock, non OE stator. Bought a new AGM yesterday, charged it up overnight, and stuck it in there today. Again, the VFR had no problems with the MOTY. 1200+ miles over the 4 1/2 days of TMac. Strong charging, started every time, never below 13 at key on. My R/R went out shortly after installing the MOTY, not sure if it was the cause but did not like the timing. R/R's (all 3) are fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 16, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 16, 2011 I'm not sure I can come up with any reason the battery (whatever chemistry) would affect the stator. So, I believe I'll be re-installing the MOTY(s) at some point. They are still holing their resting voltage sitting on the workbench, so no issues there. Once I have stators capable of producing enough current, I think they will be fine. It's bugging me plugging the damn bike in to the tender every day... That's why I got the MOTY's in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 20, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 20, 2011 Otherwise, stator diagnosis seems pretty sound? Yes, continuity between any 2 of the three yellow wires should be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms. There should be no continuity between any of the 3 yellow wires to ground. That would indicate the stator is shorted to ground. Shorting to ground likely indicates that the insulation on the stator windings has broken down somewhere. You would normally think that the wire has to burn up before it gets through the enamel on the copper wire. I'd be interested what those stators look like once you get them out. Only got the SP1 out so far. Looks like the one I got to replace it. (Both are dark, almost purple-ish in color. Not like the OE VFR stators I've seen.) Used from an '04, but it came in the side case. So I think it was a part out rather than replaced due to failure. Checks out with regard to the continuity between plug and case. In any case, the OE didn't visually have any problems. But it did smell of death! Nasty! Funny thing is I didn't smell anything until I pulled the first mounting bolt out. But it was strong! I put the MOTY's back in yesterday. Not in the VFR, though. Maybe at some point... Still need gaskets and the PC800 Stator (all ordered), and get the voltmeter installed on the SP1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JES_VFR Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 OK, so AC voltage checks out on both RC and PC. However, the book also suggests checking for continuity between the stator plug and ground. Should NOT be continuity. It seems as though both bikes DO have continuity to ground on all three connectors. Low continuity plus the AC voltage being ok leads me to surmise that the stators both charge, but not at full capacity. Which is where I'm at currently. Haha, currently! Get it?! The VFR, by the way, with new Ricks stator has zero continuity on the plug. That tells me I'm performing the test correctly, at least. So, seriously? I need Two new stators at the same time? The only similarity between the circumstances being the MOTY. Coincidence? Five years and over 55,000 miles difference in the two machines. Thoughts? Well continuity to ground is a sure sign that the stators are Tango Uniform.. Why, who knows. as for your comments on your RC having previously been a good charging machine, I don't know what to tell you. My SP2 just about makes 12.8 at the battery, at idle.. I have yet to have a battery sit in it connected, for more than a couple of weeks without needing a recharge. So you know the next time I'm in doing any electrical work on that beast, Its going to get a new stator, a new rick's R&R, all grounds tied together and the positives from the R&R run directly to the battery. I keep planning on tying all the VFR's grounds to a common point and running the positive from the R&R directly to the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted June 21, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2011 Well continuity to ground is a sure sign that the stators are Tango Uniform.. Why, who knows. The only possibility is a deterioration of the windings where the wire butts up against the stator core. If it was wound improperly, they may have damaged the enamel coating on the wire at that time, and heat made the problem worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted June 21, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 21, 2011 I keep planning on tying all the VFR's grounds to a common point and running the positive from the R&R directly to the battery. I've done that on my '99 VFR and the '96 PC800 and have MOSFET r/r's, but the SP1 is still as stock. Don't forget to run the + through a 30a fuse. What does one do with the extra wire on the r/r? What's it called, the monitor wire? The SP1 is the only of my bikes to have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.