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Baileyrock

BR's Vtec Oil Change

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I'll try that when I have to change my oil next time :fing02:

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While I haven't changed the oil in my VFR yet, I have always drained the engine oil hot but left the filter change until later when things were cooled down.

You can even go ahead and add the fresh oil since it won't be circulated with the old oil in the filter unless you start the engine.

This has worked for cars, motorcycles, and boats for me.

Now if I could just figure out a way to hang onto the oil drain bolt so I don't burn my fingers or drop it in the drain pan.

Charles

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While I haven't changed the oil in my VFR yet, I have always drained the engine oil hot but left the filter change until later when things were cooled down.

You can even go ahead and add the fresh oil since it won't be circulated with the old oil in the filter unless you start the engine.

This has worked for cars, motorcycles, and boats for me.

Now if I could just figure out a way to hang onto the oil drain bolt so I don't burn my fingers or drop it in the drain pan.

Charles

Two ways to handle the drain plug....... #1 ; a drain pan with a catcher over the opening. .... #2 ; A magnet on a long arm to pull it out of the oil..........

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While I haven't changed the oil in my VFR yet, I have always drained the engine oil hot but left the filter change until later when things were cooled down.

You can even go ahead and add the fresh oil since it won't be circulated with the old oil in the filter unless you start the engine.

This has worked for cars, motorcycles, and boats for me.

Now if I could just figure out a way to hang onto the oil drain bolt so I don't burn my fingers or drop it in the drain pan.

Charles

Two ways to handle the drain plug....... #1 ; a drain pan with a catcher over the opening. .... #2 ; A magnet on a long arm to pull it out of the oil..........

Thanks for the suggestions.

My drain pan is an old plastic dishpan so the catcher probably isn't going to be the answer. :smile:

The magnet could work and I already have one.

Actually, by putting a shop rag close to the drain pan, I can usually drop the drain bolt on the shop rag almost as soon as it comes out of the engine.

The magnet would come in handy for the times when I'm not successful with my juggling act. :biggrin:

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While I haven't changed the oil in my VFR yet, I have always drained the engine oil hot but left the filter change until later when things were cooled down.

You can even go ahead and add the fresh oil since it won't be circulated with the old oil in the filter unless you start the engine.

This has worked for cars, motorcycles, and boats for me.

Now if I could just figure out a way to hang onto the oil drain bolt so I don't burn my fingers or drop it in the drain pan.

Charles

Two ways to handle the drain plug....... #1 ; a drain pan with a catcher over the opening. .... #2 ; A magnet on a long arm to pull it out of the oil..........

Thanks for the suggestions.

My drain pan is an old plastic dishpan so the catcher probably isn't going to be the answer. :smile:

The magnet could work and I already have one.

Actually, by putting a shop rag close to the drain pan, I can usually drop the drain bolt on the shop rag almost as soon as it comes out of the engine.

The magnet would come in handy for the times when I'm not successful with my juggling act. :biggrin:

I find that I'm rarely successful - even if I catch it, it just slides right out and finds its way into the bottom of my drain pan :( EVERY TIME! Oh well, i just dig around and find it - usually by then my hands are a mess anyways :)

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BR, you took gynaecology classes in college?

:biggrin:

Geeze Dutchy!!,.......... :blink:

Now I'm surprised the NL does not have a population explosion problem these days......

Must be from living below sea level for extended periods........ :biggrin:

Beck

95 VFR

Edited by Beck

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I thought you just sucked the oil out of that shiny silver boxy thingy on your left handle and added 3 in 1 back when you drained it? Learn something new every day.

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Well folks, I finally did it...I actually changed the oil myself, as in didn't pay someone. :woohoo: I hadn't up to now because of laziness, figuring it was easier just to bring it in. Using the 'BR method 355' it was as easy as pie. The secret recipe is the oil filter socket and a 7" long, 1/2" drive extension. Following BR's instructions, I was done, putting the tools away in 30 minutes. Turns out it is WAY less hassle than bringing the bike into the dealer and waiting around.

So I'm living proof that VFRD works. :tongue: I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Now to clean and lube the chain for umpteenth time... :dry:

Brian

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I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Brian

And that is one reason I have mine done by my dealer.

I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think the filter, oil, and crush washer came to something like $48+.

Having it done came to about $54. I didn't think I wanted to mess with it, possibly bust some plastic, maybe screw up a few fairing clips and still have to dispose of the old oil and filter for $6.

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I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Brian

And that is one reason I have mine done by my dealer.

I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think the filter, oil, and crush washer came to something like $48+.

Having it done came to about $54. I didn't think I wanted to mess with it, possibly bust some plastic, maybe screw up a few fairing clips and still have to dispose of the old oil and filter for $6.

I hear ya...I think I saved 10-15$ doing it myself. What I did save was driving to the shop, waiting an hour or two until they got around to it, and then having to stay a couple of hours later at work to make up for the time I missed. The bonus was a brief moment of pride at a job well done.

Brian

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I hear ya...I think I saved 10-15$ doing it myself. What I did save was driving to the shop, waiting an hour or two until they got around to it, and then having to stay a couple of hours later at work to make up for the time I missed. The bonus was a brief moment of pride at a job well done.

Brian

There's certainly nothing wrong with what you did.

In my case, I'm a regular customer and I make an appointment a day or two ahead so when I go in, I don't have to wait for them to get to it.

Since I know everyone at the shop, the oil/filter change is probably finished before I make my rounds BSing.

FWIW, I still do my own oil changes on my old Nighthawk. Just pull the plug, let the oil drain,replace the plug. change the filter, fill it with oil. Naked UJMs are easy. :smile:

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Well folks, I finally did it...I actually changed the oil myself, as in didn't pay someone. :woohoo: I hadn't up to now because of laziness, figuring it was easier just to bring it in. Using the 'BR method 355' it was as easy as pie. The secret recipe is the oil filter socket and a 7" long, 1/2" drive extension. Following BR's instructions, I was done, putting the tools away in 30 minutes. Turns out it is WAY less hassle than bringing the bike into the dealer and waiting around.

So I'm living proof that VFRD works. :tongue: I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Now to clean and lube the chain for umpteenth time... :dry:

Brian

That's cool, glad it worked for you! :smile:

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As yall saw at t-mac, I can take the fairings off in seconds. The clips are so simple. I think many just dont understand how they work exactly and they do wear out.

I think not taking the left fairing is lazy, no offense BR.

I think the fairing should be taked off to ck. the radiator reserve and I also ck. the blue connector, all connectors, and bolts while I am there.

It can be done easily, especially if you have removed the evap canister.

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Oh yeah. A honda auto filter works great on the VFR. every honda after 1989 uses the same filter. It is a little longer, so a little more capacity which is always good. It's half the price of a cycle specific filter.

If you want exact the honda hybrid oil filters are identical to the cycle filters. Only blue instead of black.

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For those of you worried about the hot engine, check the kitchen for the "Ove Glove". Not sure the wife would like to use after your done, but hey, no burnt skin! Actually, I was sent a catalog from some restaurant supply company by mistake and they had these long sleeve gloves that were for meant for protecting you all the way past the elbow. Those would come in handy for this oil change method.

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U-joint between filter socket and ratchet extension helps a lot. So did cutting the center of the v-fairing out with a Dremel and a grinding tool. I did that only after cracking part of the V-fairing when tugging on it trying to get a filter in and out. I do my own changes and I always got my hand nicked up on the flashing at the edges of the fairing trying to do this without removing body work. It's made changing the oil a lot easier.

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Haha... I'm not brave enough for this one.

I got a bag of 100 little clips and have the fairing-removal exercise down to about 5 minutes... That's my technique. biggrin.gif

lol, I've given up on the clips at the bottom of the fairings and just run a long zip tie through, connecting the two of them. Learned this from back when my RC51 would loose them or I'd break them while removing the fairings.

You can get very nice usable clips at autozone, no need to zip tye stuff

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U-joint between filter socket and ratchet extension helps a lot. So did cutting the center of the v-fairing out with a Dremel and a grinding tool. I did that only after cracking part of the V-fairing when tugging on it trying to get a filter in and out. I do my own changes and I always got my hand nicked up on the flashing at the edges of the fairing trying to do this without removing body work. It's made changing the oil a lot easier.

I only change filters about twice per year, but about 6 or 7 oil changes(always) under hot conditions , fairing removal, allows other clean up and checking during that time.

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I only change filters about twice per year, but about 6 or 7 oil changes(always) under hot conditions , fairing removal, allows other clean up and checking during that time.

How many miles per year do you ride?

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I only change filters about twice per year, but about 6 or 7 oil changes(always) under hot conditions , fairing removal, allows other clean up and checking during that time.

How many miles per year do you ride?

bout 15 to 20,000 mile in slow years, higher in better years. Once the bike has 15,000 mile filter runs very clean, my 06 vfr has over 90,000 miles.

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I only change filters about twice per year, but about 6 or 7 oil changes(always) under hot conditions , fairing removal, allows other clean up and checking during that time.

How many miles per year do you ride?

bout 15 to 20,000 mile in slow years, higher in better years. Once the bike has 15,000 mile filter runs very clean, my 06 vfr has over 90,000 miles.

Nice!

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I only change filters about twice per year, but about 6 or 7 oil changes(always) under hot conditions , fairing removal, allows other clean up and checking during that time.

Good id ya.

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