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How to remove power limitations 1st and 2nd gear


Dutchgixxer

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Did you see that youtube video of the kid that throws down his brand new gixxer as he guns it out of the dealership? Rear wheel just spins out like the tire was made out of plastic! Then down she goes...

I did this on my CB100 in 1972!!

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I went to Radio Shack and bought the switch I linked to in post 19. Here is a crude illustration of how I plan to wire it.

I'll mount the switch under the seat... That will ensure that the bike has to be shut off to throw the switch.

I think your wiring diagram is false. In the derestriced mode 1st and 2 nd are always connected to the ECU. The ECU sees 2 gears engaged.

The GPS for 1st and 2nd wires have to move to both the middle ( P contact ) poles.

Yeah I've definitely got it screwed up... I need to re-think this. Please explain your second sentence... I don't completely understand.

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I went to Radio Shack and bought the switch I linked to in post 19. Here is a crude illustration of how I plan to wire it.

I'll mount the switch under the seat... That will ensure that the bike has to be shut off to throw the switch.

The wires coming from the GPS need to be in the middle of the switch, and either set of leads coming off either end. Then in one ON position the sensor is hooked to the ecm, on the other ON position, you GPS is hooked to your modded wiring where it sends the GPS signal right to the 3rd gear wire.

Jason

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I went to Radio Shack and bought the switch I linked to in post 19. Here is a crude illustration of how I plan to wire it.

I'll mount the switch under the seat... That will ensure that the bike has to be shut off to throw the switch.

The wires coming from the GPS need to be in the middle of the switch, and either set of leads coming off either end. Then in one ON position the sensor is hooked to the ecm, on the other ON position, you GPS is hooked to your modded wiring where it sends the GPS signal right to the 3rd gear wire.

Jason

:fing02:

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The wires coming from the GPS need to be in the middle of the switch, and either set of leads coming off either end. Then in one ON position the sensor is hooked to the ecm, on the other ON position, you GPS is hooked to your modded wiring where it sends the GPS signal right to the 3rd gear wire.

Jason

Bit more like this then:

post-18833-001111300 1287166823_thumb.jp

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While taking risks always has it's cost/benefit tradeoffs, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the fact that your warranty will most likely be null and void with this mod and one that will be detectable even if you decide later to remove this mod.

The only way to make it untraceable is to fabricate an intermediate harness that inserts between the GPS and main harness connector, thus not making any DIY looking cuts into the main harness. :idea3:

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While taking risks always has it's cost/benefit tradeoffs, one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the fact that your warranty will most likely be null and void with this mod and one that will be detectable even if you decide later to remove this mod.

The only way to make it untraceable is to fabricate an intermediate harness that inserts between the GPS and main harness connector, thus not making any DIY looking cuts into the main harness. :idea3:

They can only deny warranty coverage on a specific repair if it somehow resulted from the changes you've made. Also warranties are administrated by dealerships... ergo if you have a good relationship with your dealership and it isn't any risk to them, they will still try to get stuff covered under warranty for you.

Moot point in my case anyway... Only 1 year of warranty on my bike which will expire this spring.

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I have another theory on the torque limitation in first and second... It might be to keep the side gear case with its coil spring / cam damper from blowing up. A sudden high-torque hit will bang that cam into the coil spring really hard.

I wonder.....

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Guest vee1cut

I can almost guarantee you that the detuning in 1st and 2nd is due to something along the lines of your theory. Some people in the forum seem to have the opinion that Honda did this to help prevent people from spinning the tire or hurting themself like the internet idiot pulling out of the dealership on his gxxser. Well I say bullshit. A little dead is the same as alot dead. This bike has so much power in ALL the gears that I can't even believe it's a topic of conversation. I am so freaking thankful that I bought my bike before stumbling across this forum. I most likely would have read enough and decided "why in the world would I want that underpowered...short ranged...ugly as hell bike?" I rode about 200 miles of various twisties and open road this weekend in perfect weather and much of that time riding I was thinking about how much I love this rocket. Best bike I have ever had...hands down. I am in agreement with you that the detuning is for a mechanical reason so I won't be cutting wires on mine.

I have another theory on the torque limitation in first and second... It might be to keep the side gear case with its coil spring / cam damper from blowing up. A sudden high-torque hit will bang that cam into the coil spring really hard.

I wonder.....

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I can almost guarantee you that the detuning in 1st and 2nd is due to something along the lines of your theory. Some people in the forum seem to have the opinion that Honda did this to help prevent people from spinning the tire or hurting themself like the internet idiot pulling out of the dealership on his gxxser. Well I say bullshit. A little dead is the same as alot dead. This bike has so much power in ALL the gears that I can't even believe it's a topic of conversation. I am so freaking thankful that I bought my bike before stumbling across this forum. I most likely would have read enough and decided "why in the world would I want that underpowered...short ranged...ugly as hell bike?" I rode about 200 miles of various twisties and open road this weekend in perfect weather and much of that time riding I was thinking about how much I love this rocket. Best bike I have ever had...hands down. I am in agreement with you that the detuning is for a mechanical reason so I won't be cutting wires on mine.

I have another theory on the torque limitation in first and second... It might be to keep the side gear case with its coil spring / cam damper from blowing up. A sudden high-torque hit will bang that cam into the coil spring really hard.

I wonder.....

Well i also say bullshit Why ?? in 1st and 2nd gear the bike is restricted. But till 5000 rpm. After 5000 rpm the power builds till a 150 hp on the back wheel.

If the gearbox could not cope with the power Honda should have made a restriction on top power not just at low revs because the power is there already lower.

The low rpm restriction in 1st and 2nd gear is just simple and cheap traction control.

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Guest vee1cut

I could absolutely smoke my rear tire in first or second gear if I so desired...so I am confused....if it is in fact "traction control", they need to refine it. And if it was only meant to offer some traction control qualities, why would it be this big corporate Honda secret? It seems to me that it could even be a marketing plus...that they would brag about this detuning which offers some traction control qualities and thus a safer machine...similar to ABS. I'm not meaning to sound argumentative or anything like that...it's just that the "dots aren't connecting" for me and I'm just curious.

I can almost guarantee you that the detuning in 1st and 2nd is due to something along the lines of your theory. Some people in the forum seem to have the opinion that Honda did this to help prevent people from spinning the tire or hurting themself like the internet idiot pulling out of the dealership on his gxxser. Well I say bullshit. A little dead is the same as alot dead. This bike has so much power in ALL the gears that I can't even believe it's a topic of conversation. I am so freaking thankful that I bought my bike before stumbling across this forum. I most likely would have read enough and decided "why in the world would I want that underpowered...short ranged...ugly as hell bike?" I rode about 200 miles of various twisties and open road this weekend in perfect weather and much of that time riding I was thinking about how much I love this rocket. Best bike I have ever had...hands down. I am in agreement with you that the detuning is for a mechanical reason so I won't be cutting wires on mine.

I have another theory on the torque limitation in first and second... It might be to keep the side gear case with its coil spring / cam damper from blowing up. A sudden high-torque hit will bang that cam into the coil spring really hard.

I wonder.....

Well i also say bullshit Why ?? in 1st and 2nd gear the bike is restricted. But till 5000 rpm. After 5000 rpm the power builds till a 150 hp on the back wheel.

If the gearbox could not cope with the power Honda should have made a restriction on top power not just at low revs because the power is there already lower.

The low rpm restriction in 1st and 2nd gear is just simple and cheap traction control.

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Well i also say bullshit Why ?? in 1st and 2nd gear the bike is restricted. But till 5000 rpm. After 5000 rpm the power builds till a 150 hp on the back wheel.

If the gearbox could not cope with the power Honda should have made a restriction on top power not just at low revs because the power is there already lower.

The low rpm restriction in 1st and 2nd gear is just simple and cheap traction control.

Not the gearbox, the side gear case.

I still subscribe to the idea that Honda restricted it to protect us from ourselves... just thinking aloud is all. My brief ride in unrestricted mode cements this belief... the power comes on VERY strong off idle.

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  • 2 weeks later...

DutchGixxer: please take a look at this and tell me what you think:

http://vfr1200fa.blogspot.com/2010/11/switchable-power-modes-part-ii.html

The trottle valve is operated by a closed loop servo system. The ECU reads the trottle valve position it is compared with its desired position. If there is a diffence ( error ) a correcting action is taken. The 4 wires are the 2 motor wires and 2 wires to measure the current trottle valve position. If one of the wires is cut or moddified the trottle by wire is not working any more. So do not mess with the closed loop servo.

Btw i am busy decoding the "serial link" to the combined dash indicator. to be continued. :cool:

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Looking at the pictures near where you guys are making the modification.... Is that a standard molex connector that we could buy to create an inline harness with a switch, rather than cutting up the OEM wires?

Yep and if you could build a bunch of them cheap I bet you could sell them for 50 bucks a shot.

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You guys need to research the recent CBR1000RR, or at least the 2008 model.

Power was restricted in first, maybe second too. A tuner named Bazazz (sp?) came out with a plug in device, much like you speak of, to derestrict it.

Easily removed and put back to stock. A friend has one and is happy with it I believe. :fing02:

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You guys need to research the recent CBR1000RR, or at least the 2008 model.

Power was restricted in first, maybe second too. A tuner named Bazazz (sp?) came out with a plug in device, much like you speak of, to derestrict it.

Easily removed and put back to stock. A friend has one and is happy with it I believe. :fing02:

It was actually a guy on either 1000rr.net or 1000rr.com that figured it out. Sold his home copy to a handful of WERA guys, then Bazzaz bought the rights from him. Since then DynoJet, and a handful of other companies came out with the same product.

Edited by warrenjrose
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Looking at the pictures near where you guys are making the modification.... Is that a standard molex connector that we could buy to create an inline harness with a switch, rather than cutting up the OEM wires?

Yep and if you could build a bunch of them cheap I bet you could sell them for 50 bucks a shot.

Can you figure out wich molex connector it is ( Gear position sensor harnas near the switch ) ? Thank is advance !

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  • 1 month later...

Who can provide me 2 pair of Gear Position Sensor plugs. 2 male and 2 female plugs. I Will send you a wiring harness back with switch-able 1st and 2nd gear de restriction abillity .

post-20539-0-68703100-1294081161_thumb.j

post-20539-0-53420200-1294081126_thumb.j

It is a 8 pole connector with 7 poles used.

Edited by Dutchgixxer
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Copied and saved... thanks to everyone for fixing the dip in the power

band... when will Honda ever learn to quit messy up the V4s naturally

linear flow of power??? first it was the silly VTEC... next it was

this dip in the Veefalos's power band... mercy for the VFR riders...

they ain't beginners...

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I would buy a plug and play 1st/2nd derestrictor that kept the gear indicator functionally correct. In other words, if this was refined a bit it would sell.

Going to the Bazzaz website, they have nothing for this bike, no e-mail address, and when I called an no one answered, I left a message asking if they might

offer anything for the VFR. So far, no response.

Copied and saved... thanks to everyone for fixing the dip in the power

band... when will Honda ever learn to quit messy up the V4s naturally

linear flow of power??? first it was the silly VTEC... next it was

this dip in the Veefalos's power band... mercy for the VFR riders...

they ain't beginners...

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Awesome photos Larry!

What program is this for rear suspension analysis?

RC45 Stock Ratios1

Do you know Brian Sharp at Boulder Motorsports? I'm a former Duc owner...

Copied and saved... thanks to everyone for fixing the dip in the power

band... when will Honda ever learn to quit messy up the V4s naturally

linear flow of power??? first it was the silly VTEC... next it was

this dip in the Veefalos's power band... mercy for the VFR riders...

they ain't beginners...

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