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O.K. Let's see what the reaction is from an owner's club....(High Mods inside)


Guest shaneliberty

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The important thing here is that I saved this bike from the scraper and it's getting a new life as a fun streetbike that will turn heads, not for it's amazingly expensive aftermarket accessories but for it's "WTF?" looks.

That's a good enough reason for me! Onwards! :fing02:

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Guest shaneliberty

I have the option to slide the forks down about another 5mm if I want and I am considering the British "Jack up Kit" for the rear to place a little more weight on the front end to mess around with geometry.

You could flip the eccentric for a lot less and get about an inch of rear ride height. Do a search here, I started a topic on it a while ago.

The eccentric is already flipped with the axle at it's lowest point in the swingarm. The Triple Tree's offset from the center line of the neck of the frame to center of the forks is the main issue and I am not sure what would need to happen to correct it. I will talk with a suspension/frame specialist and see if there is any chance of bringing it back closer to stock. If not.... f**k it. I didn't make the change to make it faster. lol.

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You could flip the eccentric for a lot less and get about an inch of rear ride height. Do a search here, I started a topic on it a while ago.

The eccentric is already flipped with the axle at it's lowest point in the swingarm. The Triple Tree's offset from the center line of the neck of the frame to center of the forks is the main issue and I am not sure what would need to happen to correct it. I will talk with a suspension/frame specialist and see if there is any chance of bringing it back closer to stock. If not.... f**k it. I didn't make the change to make it faster. lol.

Ah, so now the question is - did you know that you could keep the rear brake when you do that? :goofy:

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How close is the 1098 subframe to fitting? Looks like it isn't too much work to make it fit.

To make the sub continuous to the VFR mounts is is taking some fab work but the top rails are ALMOST lined up with the inside of the top tabs. I had an aluminum spacer that I drilled out then mounted tight to the inside of the top mount and then the inside of the top mount of the sub. Once bolted up the top rail of the subframe was about an 1/8" to 3/16ths away from flush with the spacer. The lower rails were much further away and the bottom rail of the sub is being lengthened with larger diameter material to make the transition.

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When you get finished, I'd like for you to weight it and see how much weight you removed. Welcome to the board.

Let me remove the CATs from the Ducati Termi's first before I weigh the beastie. I am adding some back with this much exhaust pipe, but I am using an aftermarket header so we will see.

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You could flip the eccentric for a lot less and get about an inch of rear ride height. Do a search here, I started a topic on it a while ago.

The eccentric is already flipped with the axle at it's lowest point in the swingarm. The Triple Tree's offset from the center line of the neck of the frame to center of the forks is the main issue and I am not sure what would need to happen to correct it. I will talk with a suspension/frame specialist and see if there is any chance of bringing it back closer to stock. If not.... f**k it. I didn't make the change to make it faster. lol.

Ah, so now the question is - did you know that you could keep the rear brake when you do that? :goofy:

Yes, I removed the rear brake because I decided to ditch it all together. Sue me. :goofy:

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"God knows when the fucking thing will be finished. Considering I have finished Kit's Ninja250R Track Conversion and it's now ready for racer's school.... There is a gap in work till the fucking FZR has parts. "

PREACH

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... Now, this VFR is my 16th bike and it was given to me for free from my boss...

OK, I haven't seen anybody address the important thing: Is your boss hiring???

Glenn

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Guest shaneliberty

Crappy photo time!

163450_10150101045491974_739606973_7522001_6203465_n.jpg

74616_10150101048676974_739606973_7522034_1345696_n.jpg

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Sorry guys this is camera phone action in lower lighting. The subframe and exhaust are permanent. Now I have to figure out wiring issues and locations for everything. Keeping heat away from rubber and plastic will be the main focus here. I am going to steal the Race battery out of the FZR since it's not getting done right away to power this beastie. I am so anxious to hear the new exhaust note I can barely stand it.

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Oh man if only I had the means to bend my own exhaust! I like the way this guy thinks.... just can't follow him on attaching that pretty plumbing to an American V-Twin. Lotta work for 45hp.

DSCF0925.jpg

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Yes. I am cutting the header. It's getting used on a VFR so it's not a waste. Just as many Ducati Owners would be upset I am cutting up a Ducati Midpipe so it's a wash.

How can you compare an OEM midpipe versus a no-longer in production aftermarket header :blink: ??

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Yes. I am cutting the header. It's getting used on a VFR so it's not a waste. Just as many Ducati Owners would be upset I am cutting up a Ducati Midpipe so it's a wash.

How can you compare an OEM midpipe versus a no-longer in production aftermarket header :blink: ??

Pretty easily... I think you actually quoted it. lol. You forget, I don't care about the "Value" of old parts. The important thing is it's being used for it's intended purpose. As it turned out, we only had to cut about an inch out of the exit in order to get the mid to turn sharply enough. Not bad at all. The whole thing is sleeved together so I didn't have to weld the Ducati mid to the Two Bros Header. See pic above. Springs keep everything tight.

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Looking good IMO. :fing02:

The only negative to V4s are that they usually do not make for clean-looking naked bikes. Too many hoses and wires, etc. compared to twins and inline 4s. I'm sure they could be designed to be more sleek when nude, but VFRs have mostly been full-fairing bikes.

Still, I think that raw look with exposed bits is one bonus to a streetfighter. Looking forward to seeing more, Shane. :smile:

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Looking good IMO. :fing02:

The only negative to V4s are that they usually do not make for clean-looking naked bikes. Too many hoses and wires, etc. compared to twins and inline 4s. I'm sure they could be designed to be more sleek when nude, but VFRs have mostly been full-fairing bikes.

Still, I think that raw look with exposed bits is one bonus to a streetfighter. Looking forward to seeing more, Shane. :smile:

I am going to use the Fiberglassing skills I have picked up to make a panel that will cover the gap just under the tank and I will extend the panel over the mounting point for the subframe. This is a carb model so there is a lot less wiring and sensors to hide. I have a Buell XB12R Oil cooler that I will be mounting to replace the long stock oil cooler. I will side mount the cooler and maintain it's stock air scoop that allows you to mount the cooler on edge and have air pulled over it. I did away with the Keyed Ignition and will soon do away with a bar mounted switch now that I installed one of our Cycle Pirates Race Throttles. I no longer require the left control housing. I will mount an oldschool push button ignition switch elsewhere on the frame.

All of the wiring from the tail will fit in the new subframe with a heat shield to protect it. The smaller battery will fit under the passenger seat and any remaining wiring is already under the tank in front of the airbox as the Snorkel has been removed, leaving a lot of space. I even have the fuse box facing out to the right so I can easily retrieve it to swap a fuse without lifting the tank should I pop one from fooling with the wiring.

Thank you again guys for looking at this without flaming the post. This is the ONLY other forum I have found where fellow riders haven't just jumped in to trash talk for no good reason. I greatly appreciate the feedback. Even asking logical questions about the build is a help as it may remind me to tie off something or correct a design mistake.

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An overall suggestion: Unless you're already a Honda or VFR guy and are aware of Honda's assorted chronic electrical ( or other) gremlins, you might want to carefully review some of the threads in the electrical (or other) sections and eliminate those problems while the bike is in a zilion pieces.

That subframe weldment photo of yours that shows the big white 3-wire stator/RR connector got me to thinking about this. You DO know about the big white 3-wire connector meltdown problems, don't you? :pissed: Maybe some folks will chime in with other common problems for this generation VFR.

Anyway, good luck with your clever project. :cool:

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I am going to use the Fiberglassing skills I have picked up to make a panel that will cover the gap just under the tank and I will extend the panel over the mounting point for the subframe. This is a carb model so there is a lot less wiring and sensors to hide. I have a Buell XB12R Oil cooler that I will be mounting to replace the long stock oil cooler. I will side mount the cooler and maintain it's stock air scoop that allows you to mount the cooler on edge and have air pulled over it. I did away with the Keyed Ignition and will soon do away with a bar mounted switch now that I installed one of our Cycle Pirates Race Throttles. I no longer require the left control housing. I will mount an oldschool push button ignition switch elsewhere on the frame.

All of the wiring from the tail will fit in the new subframe with a heat shield to protect it. The smaller battery will fit under the passenger seat and any remaining wiring is already under the tank in front of the airbox as the Snorkel has been removed, leaving a lot of space. I even have the fuse box facing out to the right so I can easily retrieve it to swap a fuse without lifting the tank should I pop one from fooling with the wiring.

Thank you again guys for looking at this without flaming the post. This is the ONLY other forum I have found where fellow riders haven't just jumped in to trash talk for no good reason. I greatly appreciate the feedback. Even asking logical questions about the build is a help as it may remind me to tie off something or correct a design mistake.

Cool..

you have pulled off the bit that i am still considering to move further with my build... Your exhaust that pulls from right to the under seat left. Will your join clean up like your nice shiny headers?

Also like your welding to fit rear sub frame, i did the same but with billet.

for the gap from the tank to the rear i now have Ducati 916 air box covers in carbon.. saves a lot of glassing up and with a little simple trimming they will look spot on!

Post up more pick of how yours looks at the moment....would be nice for me to see how the exhaust looks in situe. I was going to run just one can under the seat on the right side, but my fabricator was scratching his head too much and talking money. Said i should just think about it a bit more for now...... :fing02:

bike at the track over this past year

post-5025-0-60725600-1292986373_thumb.jpsuch silly high res you can see the carbon weave...

And below, the carbon air box cover(here still on the duke i got them off) to finish that hole under the VFR tank. Just needs a trim to fit the VFR. Carbon is excellent and very easy to work with.

Also have the oil tray for underneath to add when i get five mins.

I just dont have the joint similar to yours from the 2bros headers to the under seat end can i have stashed in the cupboard.

Bring on the exhaust bending...

post-5025-0-21047500-1292986943_thumb.pn

Look forward to see yours done....

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Guest shaneliberty

Looking good so far! Noticed your CF sticker.........I'm over there as well! My buddy Rob had a VFR swinger on his FZR (mine was the one next to his in the pic)......I've built quite a few of 'em. Good little bikes.

380722380.jpg

Hey Yeah! He was helping me figure out the VFR swinger for the FZR i have. He tipped me off to the Kawasaki Front Sprocket and going 520 to get more clearance on the left side for alignment. That's another can of worms I have to start soon.

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