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gll429

HOW TO ..busted stud removal

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this bike has a busted exhaust stud..
the forks and wheel are removed for a later write up ..
IMG00451.jpg
after trying the "double nut" method..which stripped the remaining treads off the stud :dry:
IMG00452.jpg
so i rethreaded it..what was left..
then i took a long nut and cut it at an angle for more surface area contact with the MIG welder.. :cool:
IMG00453.jpgIMG00455.jpg

then let it cool and it came right out. :beer:
IMG00456.jpg
next.. exhaust write up!!
you have read this...now go find a mod and pin this thread. :goofy:

Edited by gll429

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On engines, it's a must to have as good a ground as close as possible to the piece being welded! Otherwise, the current from the welder will arc across the main bearing sufaces if the ground is not adjacent.

As for stuck exh. studs, nuts, etc, it helps to tighten it just a tad prior to loosening. Sometimes a pair of vice grips will do the trick too.

Thanks for the tip~

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On engines, it's a must to have as good a ground as close as possible to the piece being welded! Otherwise, the current from the welder will arc across the main bearing sufaces if the ground is not adjacent.

As for stuck exh. studs, nuts, etc, it helps to tighten it just a tad prior to loosening. Sometimes a pair of vice grips will do the trick too.

Thanks for the tip~

Vise grips with sharp teeth. The double nut method can work but half the battle is just taking your time.

I knew there was a reason I was oggling over welders the other day....

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Guest Salty42

I had to remove one of these about a year ago... Mine was on the front cylinder bank as well, luckily, although it was broke off flush with the motor. First, I tried to drill into the center of it and use an extractor; big mistake. It felt like it was gonna break so I decided to stop and try something else, but a "friend" said to let him feel it, and snapped the extractor off.

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its how to time!!
first in series of writes ups! grab your tools and fill up your coffee pot!! :beer:

on my way home to maryland from RI.. i picked up dennis's bike.. so i had 2 VFRs in my astro! :blink: :bliss:
IMG00381.jpg
this bike has an exhaust stud busted and i will be doing a write up on that tomorrow..
in anycase..
depairng the vfr750.. why? why not? you remove 4 lbs of junk.. in this case,.. rusted out junk.

the body and tank are removed to to do all the stuff at once.. that includes a valve check , new stock pipes/stud removal , repainting of the side covers, the R/R grounding i keep yammering about :tongue:

i put the bike on the lift and raised the rear up high enough to get to everything and be able to remove the pipes.
IMG00398.jpg
IMG00399.jpg
IMG00392.jpg

first... remove the 2 thick tubes in front of the airbox and replace with rubber caps .. red in lower pic
IMG00418.jpg
IMG00434.jpg
trace the tube down to the pair unit.. and unbolt it from the frame. ..the left side bolt is also a motor mount bolt. so put it back in! :fing02:
IMG00417.jpg
trace the thin rubber tube up to the intake on the motor and pull it off the brass fitting.. remove the brass fitting and replace with a screw taken from the pair unit. do the back 2 brass fittings while your at it.
you CAN leave the fittings and put on caps. but rubber dries out.. this is a long term fix.
IMG00421.jpgIMG00422.jpgIMG00429.jpg
trace the chrome tubes around the motor and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding each in place.
IMG00414.jpgIMG00416-1.jpg
IMG00415.jpg
some people use billet block off plats.. but this is a fast and free(if you have a welder)
cut the tubes off the flange end and weld up the hole :idea3:
paint black with high temp paint and reinstall! presto! you have depaired your bike and remove lots of crap!
IMG00424.jpg
IMG00431.jpg

all this..
IMG00423.jpg

replaced with this little bit!!!
IMG00426.jpg

now have a mod pin this post :excl: :goofy:



grab another BIG cup of coffee!!
todays how to.. save your R/R hopefully from going bonkers on you. :computer-noworky:
this is my personal set up that i have done to many bikes with great results.
this his HOOPDC'S 95 vfr750. :fing02:

Regulator rectifiers absorb 3 strong alternating currents (AC)
from the stators yellow wires, and change them to a steady stream of direct current (DC) via the red wire. .
if the R/R gets to much juice it sends the overflow to the ground with the green wire..


however.. the green wire is kinda wimpy and runs to the main harness and meets a bunch of other wires with juice going through them..so the flow gets a bit hot...
and heat build up is what kills the R/R

ok.. take a sip of coffee...breath..
if your not deaf like me ..put on AC/DC's "long way to the top"

sooooo, what you need!
i am assuming you know who to solder and have an mini or electric soldering iron,..if not.. get one and practice a bit.

you need green wire,eyelets, a brown wire, connection ends, a computer fan, heat transfer compound, a wire brush and a pick. :comp13:
IMG00459.jpgIMG00481.jpgIMG00483.jpg

take r/r and stator wires ..disconnect them. take the pick and remove the tangs from the blocks and scrub them clean!

when doing the block connector on the left side of the bike, you may just want to cut the block off and soilder the wires .this eliminates a very troublesome hot spot! :fing02:

IMG00458.jpgIMG00462.jpg
now.. take the eyelets and solder them to the green wires. if your wire is thin you can double up or triple if needed.
make 3 off them about 5 inches long.. you can cut them short if needed.
IMG00490.jpg

find your tail connection and splice in one of the eyelet extensions and bolt it to the frame .. taking a little paint of helps with the connection. do this with the green wire coming from the R/R and the bunch of green wires up at the front of the bike.
IMG00487.jpgIMG00467.jpgIMG00491.jpgIMG00485.jpg

take your computer fan..(this one from a dumpster..RECYCLE!)
and fit it over your R/R.. you may need to make a mounts for it.. this one was perfect.. just needed a shave to open the spot for the plug.
IMG00482.jpg

drill the mounting holes.. then remove the R/R and put lots of heat transfer compound on it.. this is just a dab.. dont be shy with it. push the r/r on the plate hard and smoosh the paste around and wipe off the excess. :biggrin:

IMG00484.jpg

mount your R/R and fan.. ground the fan neg wire and and the connection plug on the positive. splice in the brown wire to the power wire for your brake light. brown is power accessory on hondas. :fing02:
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and your done! :bliss:
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this may seem like overkill... but overkill in the garage is MUCH better that a dead bike on the road! :fing02:



i added these to the thread, as slammers "purge" trashed all the HOW TO info.

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Good write up, I bought a stud remover tool, it was just a big cam that you put a wrench on and it would grab the stud and torque it out, but in the tight confines of the bike frame it was useless. I ended up having to drill it out with a carbide drill bit then put in an easy out till the damn thing came out. They get rusty cause they heat cycle so much, my stud snapped off flush, I HAD to drill it out after it broke the second time.

Some guys say use Copaslip high temp anti seize on the new studs? I just put them in dry and dont torque too much, they have low torque figures.

The heat grease might work but the fan will fail, they dont last long on a bike. Best thing to do is make sure you have good connectors, and they are clean! Its just a shitty design on the charging system!

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The Anti-sieze Miguel references is sold here in Canada as Kopr-Kote.

399-10002.EPS.JPG

Another good material is Nikal. It uses nickel in the mix instead of copper. It is good at extremely high temps, up to 2600'F.

JTL13602.jpg

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the computer fan on my bike 7 years now and still going :cheerleader:

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Nice writeup man. I'm thinking some of the close up photos are a bit fuzzy.

Possibly because the coffee was gone this morning,

then there was a good ride,

and now it's past beer:30. :beer:

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Interesting that I should stumble upon this thread today.

I have been fixing my leaf blower and twisted off the bot holding on the muffler.

A 1/4" stud remained protruding. I tried welding on a nut but it just twisted off.

Ended up welding on a nice big glob at the end of the stud, which made it nice and red and provided with a good purchase for the wise grips.

First time in my life it actually worked for me...

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.....Regulator rectifiers absorb 3 strong alternating currents (AC) from the stators yellow wires, and change them to a steady stream of direct current (DC) via the red wire. . if the R/R gets to much juice it sends the overflow to the ground with the green wire..

however.. the green wire is kinda wimpy and runs to the main harness and meets a bunch of other wires with juice going through them..so the flow gets a bit hot... and heat build up is what kills the R/R.....

Q:

a 90-97 VFRness replaces the wimpy green wire with a 10 gauge; which goes straight to the minus terminal on the battery (instead of into the wiring loom as you write)

So there is no more need to splice in extra grounds right?

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IMG_20140303_150513_zps47ccb167.jpg

. electricity loves to flow in the path of least resistance.

i add more grounds right to the frame as its the biggest negative wire on the bike.

when the r/r blows it sometimes allows the r/r to really over charge.. and that will pop the main fuse.

the other way the r/r pops is sending too much current to the ground.

adding a a neg wire to the battery will help the r/r but not necessarily help the over all flow on the rest of the bike.

there are SO many ground wires that are crimped together. or put in a block of connecters like the 5th and 6th gens. those connecter blocks have melted or caught fire on more than a few bikes! .

so. i play it safe .. and when i build a harley.. i use this ..

WiringDiagramTodd8080HD_zps794a1135.gif

i know i know.. makes you wish a honda did the same..

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Guest theelf

the computer fan on my bike 7 years now and still going :cheerleader:

post pic??

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Old school weld a nut on a broken bolt head ..

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the computer fan on my bike 7 years now and still going :cheerleader:

post pic??
You mean the ones in the tread arnt enough for you???? I now own that bike

:)

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