Tightwad Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share Posted July 16, 2010 It would be about $30 more for the dual beam H4, plus any adjustments needed for the kit to work...it would be somewhat complex from what I can tell. Best case would be to have a 5th gen local who wants to try it out. Tight, If I was local, I'd be over there already. I'll take a set if you can do it for $30 more. The issue is more one of fitting the parts in, and wiring the high beams to work correctly with the latch and delay...much easier on site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted July 16, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 16, 2010 It would be about $30 more for the dual beam H4, plus any adjustments needed for the kit to work...it would be somewhat complex from what I can tell. Best case would be to have a 5th gen local who wants to try it out. Tight, If I was local, I'd be over there already. I'll take a set if you can do it for $30 more. Does the 5th gen have dust boots on the back of the housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechdziner714 Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 Does the 5th gen have dust boots on the back of the housing? Yes the 5th gen has dust boots. I'd be interested in any 5th gen lighting upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer coderighter Posted July 16, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 16, 2010 Does the 5th gen have dust boots on the back of the housing? Yes the 5th gen has dust boots. I'd be interested in any 5th gen lighting upgrade. That dust boot might be a problem. Bi-H4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JES_VFR Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 That dust boot might be a problem. Bi-H4 Well I would think that we could trim it back so it would fit. Not unlike having to trim back the center of the dust boot to fit an aftermarket shifter on a mustang. Anyway the dust boot would be the least of my worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwiftTech Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 The large portion on the bottom of the bulb should pull off to allow the boot to go onto the bulb with no problem I would think. See this 5th gen HID thread: How To : Fitting A Hid Kit pulled from AnikMankar's thread. Although maybe different bulbs don't have a removable connector??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer Madness Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 Mr T: Mine arrived today. Boxes within boxes = good idea! :idea3: Robust wiring all the way around.... nice to mark wires and what they do. :huh: A black and white instruction sheet with pictures would be nice. (only a comment) :blush: As for the power wire, I see it has a 20 amp fuse; I still have room on your fuse bus that I added to the VFRarness. :mellow: What would be wrong with using that as my hot wire source? Would it overload it? :ohmy: I already have: 20amp for Stebel Horn, and a 7.5 to the Power Commander (don't ask). :wacko: That leaves two more open. :huh: Thanks, Greg :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ripper Posted July 17, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 17, 2010 Finally got a chance to take it out at night... my final verdict is that these things rock!!! Street signs light up all the time now and despite what some feared, the light pattern on the road is great! I got some very good comments from others about the light output and how they weren't blinding to oncoming traffic. Great Job Joshua! They were also very impressed with the delay relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 Mr T: Mine arrived today. Boxes within boxes = good idea! :idea3: Robust wiring all the way around.... nice to mark wires and what they do. :laughing6-hehe: A black and white instruction sheet with pictures would be nice. (only a comment) :blush: As for the power wire, I see it has a 20 amp fuse; I still have room on your fuse bus that I added to the VFRarness. :biggrin: What would be wrong with using that as my hot wire source? Would it overload it? :ohmy: I already have: 20amp for Stebel Horn, and a 7.5 to the Power Commander (don't ask). :wacko: That leaves two more open. :huh: Thanks, Greg :fing02: Instructions have not been finalized....waiting on some feedback from those who installed start to end so I can edit the instructions listed previously. I figured marking the wires would be helpful, since there are so many plugs and busyness. You can of course wire it into your fuse panel, that is what I did with mine (saves battery space). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwiftTech Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Just got done installing mine. Took about 2 hrs to do. No real big problems during the install. I found the orange power wire to be just the right length. I ran it out around the ABS modulator, then in towards the tank and followed the brake lines back to the battery. Perfect length really. The only real problem I had was that I could not get the shrink tubing to go over the terminal I pulled out of the low beam relay. It would go on about 1/8" and just stop, not amount of twisting or pushing would budge it any more. So I shrank it there and taped around the whole thing. The latch and delay work exactly as they are supposed to, no lights until the bike is fired up, then one comes on and the other 5 seconds later. Will have to wait till later when it is dark out to check out the beam pattern and light output. All in all a great kit Tightwad! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 Just got done installing mine. Took about 2 hrs to do. No real big problems during the install. I found the orange power wire to be just the right length. I ran it out around the ABS modulator, then in towards the tank and followed the brake lines back to the battery. Perfect length really. The only real problem I had was that I could not get the shrink tubing to go over the terminal I pulled out of the low beam relay. It would go on about 1/8" and just stop, not amount of twisting or pushing would budge it any more. So I shrank it there and taped around the whole thing. The latch and delay work exactly as they are supposed to, no lights until the bike is fired up, then one comes on and the other 5 seconds later. Will have to wait till later when it is dark out to check out the beam pattern and light output. All in all a great kit Tightwad! :fing02: I will check that the right sized heat shrink gets in the future kits, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Just mailed out the 5th kit, with 3 4500K kits waiting for the bulbs to arrive (should be here this evening!). I have 5 4500K kits left unsold, and 2 5000K kits...after that I will evaluate the demand for another run. I could change a 4500K into a 6000K at no additional cost (website cost is a bit higher) as well, as I have bulbs for that available already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ripper Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Just mailed out the 5th kit, with 3 4500K kits waiting for the bulbs to arrive (should be here this evening!). I have 5 4500K kits left unsold, and 2 5000K kits...after that I will evaluate the demand for another run. I could change a 4500K into a 6000K at no additional cost (website cost is a bit higher) as well, as I have bulbs for that available already. I showed off the light kit on one of my sites. I'm sure that a couple of them are interested in getting one but they all have different bikes. Plus side... More Money and More Work. Negative side.... More expenses and More work. I am going to be disassembling the front of the bike again in the next few days. I'll try to snap a few pics for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyA Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I'm waiting on a couple of replys with how they like the light pattern before I pull the trigger on a 4500K kit. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 I'm waiting on a couple of replys with how they like the light pattern before I pull the trigger on a 4500K kit. :fing02: I love everything about this kit. It is done the way I would have done it for myself - This is the highest praise in my book :laugh: However, one thing that can not be controlled here is the light output of the stock housing. I really hope to see some more discussion on this preferably with pictures from the back and from the front. I just hate it when someone blinds me and sure don't want to blind others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 I'm waiting on a couple of replys with how they like the light pattern before I pull the trigger on a 4500K kit. :fing02: The HID bulbs are better. And cagers (even during the daytime) are more alert when they see the HID’s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 A couple questions have come up about ballast placement, and the fuse panel on the right side. I removed the screws holding the headlights at the top, and in the middle, then pivoted them inward so I could place the ballast as deep in the nose as possible. This allows them to clear the fuse panel, and it minimizes the chance of the tape failing and them falling out of place. This is important because the tape is not meant to secure them or hang them, just to help locate them. As a matter of fact, they are no longer including the tape in the kits for that reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Here's what they look like on the DRAGON. Plenty of people notice them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Here's what they look like on the DRAGON. Plenty of people notice them. Nice little twinkle in your eyes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ripper Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Joshua, I hope this helps for the guys that have not taken the front off and it shows where I had to locate the ballast to clear the fuse panel on the right. Ummm... it was a slow day at work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ripper Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 I thought 7 second clips was long enough but in true form I was wrong again! I guess a guy could play it and pause at each step? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 Joshua, I hope this helps for the guys that have not taken the front off and it shows where I had to locate the ballast to clear the fuse panel on the right. Ummm... it was a slow day at work. That is awesome! Only takes 3:23 seconds to install...should be easy enough.... It is worth noting that the flex loom is not part of the kit. Did you need 3/8” or would ¼” have worked? I could include some in people wanted, I didn’t use it on my bike (just ziptied the wires out of the way). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ripper Posted July 20, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 20, 2010 Joshua, I hope this helps for the guys that have not taken the front off and it shows where I had to locate the ballast to clear the fuse panel on the right. Ummm... it was a slow day at work. That is awesome! Only takes 3:23 seconds to install...should be easy enough.... It is worth noting that the flex loom is not part of the kit. Did you need 3/8” or would ¼” have worked? I could include some in people wanted, I didn’t use it on my bike (just ziptied the wires out of the way). Yea, I should have said something about it not being part of the kit. Sorry! I used 1/4" for future plans, but 3/8 would have worked just fine. Did I over do some of it? Hell yea.... that's how I roll! 3:23 would be nice, but if you've had the front off before and could knock that part out quickly, you could easily do this in under two hours. Didn't take me but 1.5hrs to take it apart, Re-route some of the wires, put the loom on, take the pictures, ect. I did it during work so it took till noon to get it wrapped up with having to stop every 5 min. I mean really, how dare they interrupt me during a project? :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 22, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2010 EXCELLENT VID GOOD WORK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 All orders placed to date have been shipped. I am also now able to sell the Relays (Latch and/or Delay) seperately, for those who already have HID or wish to use similar functionality with the OEM lights. Latch = $29 Delay = $24 I also have relay connectors if needed....just need time to get everything up on my website...I am terrible at that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.