VifferSwiffer Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 (edited) Which pads did you install? EBC pads have them .The picture is of the stock pad and bracket. I installed EBC HH as replacement, but they did not come with one of their own.Thanks for jumping in! Edited June 7, 2014 by VifferSwiffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Not necessary. You can run without them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2014 Switchblade, on 07 Jun 2014 - 06:34 AM, said: Which pads did you install? EBC pads have them . The picture is of the stock pad and bracket. I installed EBC HH as replacement, but they did not come with one of their own.Thanks for jumping in! Jumped in because they do come with spacers !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VifferSwiffer Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Not necessary. You can run without them. Thanks, that is what I was hoping to hear. But, just out of curiosity, do you know what their purpose is on the stock pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2014 Double-H™ Sintered Superbike brake pads benefit from the highest friction HH rating for maximum stopping power, made in the USA from sintered copper alloy like original pads for longer life and perfect braking stainless steel radiator plates are fitted to reduce heat transfer into bikes hydraulics where required. Some callipers feature phenolic pistons and generally these do not require insulation.. The unique double segment vented design improves braking under all riding conditions, wet, dry, hot or cold. On wider EBC brake pads this keeps the pads cooler and prevents pad drag and overheat or fade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VifferSwiffer Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Ah, Switchblade, I see that you do have them, but mine are a different compound (FA388HH). Perhaps the more aggressive pads come with the heat spacer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 7, 2014 Ah, Switchblade, I see that you do have them, but mine are a different compound (FA388HH). Perhaps the more aggressive pads come with the heat spacer? I thought all EBC's did but guess not, learn something every day on this site .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted September 23, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted September 23, 2014 Today's wx made for a good rainy day project - new front brake pads for my 2009 VFR800 - fwiw, I used Galfer FD344-G1380. A couple of notes: 1.The new pads might be ever so slightly thicker as it was a bear to get enough clearance to fit the new ones. Might be worthwhile pulling the calipers for a good cleaning next time. 2. The pad pin on my '09 is one piece, with a 6 mm bolt head. No rubber/metal plug hiding an allen bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rovari Posted October 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 11, 2014 Thank you for sharing Slammer.. Just curious as I will be replacing front and rear brake pads. Has anyone tried resurfacing or cleaning their rotors when changing their pads? My rotors are smooth but they are colored from regular wear and I want to get them shiny again. Appreciate any advice from those who may have tried this. Thanks, Rovari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TampaDave Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 ^There's a thing on the EBC website about bead-blasting or buffing the rotor prior to bedding in. The bedding in thing sounds like a good idea but I dunno about blasting my rotors, might be overkill for a boring old touring guy like myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TampaDave Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 OK, replaced front and rear pads today. I did take the calipers off for inspection and cleaning, although it's way easier to put the pads in with the calipers in place. Way easier. Put the outboard pad in first, press it against the disc, and it opens up room for the inboard pad, it just drops right in. This is totally the way to do it, thanks op you just saved me a bunch of cussin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimC Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Replaced all the front pads on my 6th gen this morning. I had a new front tire installed on Sunday, so it was a good time to easily replace the worn pads while the front wheel was already off the bike. Two notes: 1. The left caliper pads were more worn than the right. I don't remember if that's been the case before, but I don't think it's highly unusual for one side to wear a bit faster than the other. Neither side was bad, but the left were clearly more worn. As I'm hoping to do more long rides and hopefully a tour this summer - and since I already had a couple sets of new pads on hand - I thought I'd just replacement them now. Also, the last couple rides I noticed I had more front brake lever travel than usual. Hopefully that was due to the worn left side pads. 2. While reinstalling the front wheel, I had a tough time positioning the left brake rotor between the new pads on the left caliper. While trying to move then wheel into place, I knocked the inner side pad out of place twice. It popped out of the retainer spring and rotated down, just dangling from the pad pin. Has anyone else ever had this happen while reinstalling their front wheel? I don't recall it ever happening to me before, so I worried maybe I didn't get the pad installed exactly correct. But I checked it each time and it looked seated in the retainer spring to me. Maybe the edge of the brake rotor hitting it was just enough to knock it out of place. Now that the front wheel is back on, I'm sure it's fine, but it still makes me a little nervous. I'll check it during and after my next few rides while I'm bedding in the new pads and scrubbing in the new front tire. I think one of the hardest parts about wrenching (for me anyway) is I'm not as confident in my skills as other folks. I second-guess myself often, and probably unnecessarily. But that self-doubt makes for some anxious moments while working on my VFR. 😞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter83jam Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 I changed all my brake pads front and rear. Easy job thanks for the info, but my only issue is the new pads aren't that great. Do I need to bleed the whole system, when pushing the pistons in I didn't check the fluid levels. Would this be the cause? Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted August 16, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted August 16, 2020 If you have no record that fluids were changed in the past year, do it now. New pads I clean with brake cleaner and sand them down ever so lightely.. I reckon they need bedding in a bit so I go out and do some brake excercises..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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