Member Contributer kaldek Posted May 4, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2010 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted June 5, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted June 5, 2011 Here's the 5th gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audigier Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Is there any way to service this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted March 27, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 27, 2013 Yes replace ! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Or eliminate it and use a cable operated fast idle lever like on the '98-'99 bikes. Connect the two coolant hoses together, toss the wax unit in the garbage, and figure out how to rig up a cable to the starter valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanOon Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Anybody know what is the operating temperature of the auto wax unit?I have never seen any fast idling on my VFR since the day I bought it.It always cold idle around 950 rpm and hot 1200rpm.Not that I am in need of fast idling but just wonder if is due my climate with averaging of 28 deg Celsius? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 In my experience the idle drops when the bike's instrument panel starts to register a temperature. Which means around 36ºC. Below this temperature my VTEC's screen displays two hyphens. As soon as 36ºC pops up, the idle drops to the regular rpm I have my idle set to. Lately my bike is NOT activating the fast idle as it should (temps are cold enough). SOMETIMES IT DOES AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T. The only thing I've done to the bike lately was to synch the starter valves and I wish I hadn't, even though it was idling rough and had a lumpy response to subtle on-off-the-gas throttle inputs... 'cause since I did, the bike started backfiring and then when I resynched (had gone too far with the front left adjuster), the fast idle stopped working. The only thing I've managed to find is the rod that connects front row to rear row was slightly bent. Oh yeah, and now my idle adjuster doesn't want to be turned. Bloody VTECs... someone should blow VTECs up!! BTW Kal... no wax in that unit... it is apparently some sort of layered sandwich of unusual sounding metals that undergo some sort of change in shape or properties at different temps... read about some guy who took his apart with the idea of cleaning it and found there was no sight of wax... and on investigating he said that at some stage in the past, wax was used in such devices 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 15, 2013 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 15, 2013 No wax huh? Well whaddya know. They must just call it that for historical purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Bimetal spring... the spring contracts and relaxes according to temp... pulling on the starter valves to allow more or less air into the mixture just as a choke would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lobster Posted May 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2014 Does anyone happen to know the part number (or numbers) of what needs to be replaced if I were to replace my wax unit on my 2000? I looked at the Bike Bandit diagram and it shows a couple different part numbers referring to wax unit. If anyone happens to know what I need to order, I'd appreciate it. I don't want to get into "cleaning" my old wax unit, find out it is toast and not have a new one handy. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted May 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2014 Does anyone happen to know the part number (or numbers) of what needs to be replaced if I were to replace my wax unit on my 2000? I looked at the Bike Bandit diagram and it shows a couple different part numbers referring to wax unit. If anyone happens to know what I need to order, I'd appreciate it. I don't want to get into "cleaning" my old wax unit, find out it is toast and not have a new one handy. Thanks. I was looking at the throttle body assm. on PowersportsCompany's fich #18 is the 'wax element set' pn# 16044-MAT-E01 (discount price $16.81) #19 is the "stay' pn# 16169-MGB-D01 ($9.34) #20 is the 'wax case set' pn# 16502-MAT-E01 ($30.01) I would call a parts guy and ask whether 'case set' includes the 'wax element set'. That is not clear to me either. I do not know if the stay would need replacing. Good luck Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 You want this: 16044-MAT-E01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2014 Looks good . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lobster Posted May 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2014 ordered...thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Been noticing of late during our winter that cold starting fast idle wasn't working too well on my 2009 VFR. I would need to hold the throttle slightly open for a short period with engine running then the fast idle would kick in, otherwise the engine would just about stall. The fix - Just needed to make a slight CW turn of the small locknut ( the white paint marked, not supposed to adjust nut!!!) at the top of the Fast Idle Wax Unit shaft. It was fairly obvious that in the fully cold state the mechanism was not extending the starter valves enough. My first adjustment made the cold idle shoot up to 3000rpm so another slight adjustment CCW and now its runs up nicely to 2000rpm and is back to normal idle 1200rpm by approx 50degC. Regards. Grum. Edited July 18, 2014 by Grum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 Thanks Grum... It's not Winter by any means at the mo here in southern Spain (40-50ºC). But my VTEC is not idling right... I synched the valves a couple of months ago but must have done something wrong... it gets worse the more I use the bike... wierd... or is that weird? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted July 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 18, 2014 Why don't you ride up to the Netherlands, it will be only 33C here today.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 18, 2014 306.1 Kevin ? Here's a great site for you Euro's . http://www.vsource.org/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellowgold Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 BTW Kal... no wax in that unit... it is apparently some sort of layered sandwich of unusual sounding metals that undergo some sort of change in shape or properties at different temps... read about some guy who took his apart with the idea of cleaning it and found there was no sight of wax... and on investigating he said that at some stage in the past, wax was used in such devices Old thread, but Kaldek's videos have been very helpful for me. Kaldek, I owe you a beer or three. Here's a photo of the internals for reference...I took mine apart (sixth gen) last night to see if it needed servicing, but I honestly can't see how this unit would ever fail. It's just a spring and some metal bits. Mine looked brand new inside. Now, that said, the coolant passage was almost completely plugged on mine and wasn't allowing the unit to heat up properly: Before: After: Now to go buy some circlip pliers so I can get the bloody thing back together... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottay Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I have a 2014 Interceptor, and even after the bike warms to normal operating temp, the idle still remains high. I've got almost 50K miles on the bike. Possible I need to replace the wax unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 31, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2020 Mite have a look at this video on VTEC starter valves - you may be able to observe its operation in place and see what's going on. Oh to have the manual starter valves that my 99 has. I'd retrofit my VTEC and get rid of the wax unit if I could!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VhSuYbhN_N4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted December 31, 2020 Member Contributer Share Posted December 31, 2020 6 hours ago, Scottay said: I have a 2014 Interceptor, and even after the bike warms to normal operating temp, the idle still remains high. I've got almost 50K miles on the bike. Possible I need to replace the wax unit? How high is high? Have you tried adjusting the base idle adjustment and does this have any effect? Did you notice this after any maintenance or shop service or it just suddenly happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottay Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 It was more than the manual idle could reasonably adjust. No recent service prior to the issue. Already had the unit replaced...Now battery won't stay charge....wtf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted January 26, 2021 Member Contributer Share Posted January 26, 2021 11 hours ago, Scottay said: It was more than the manual idle could reasonably adjust. No recent service prior to the issue. Already had the unit replaced...Now battery won't stay charge....wtf So has replacing the wax unit restored your idle speed? Your battery might be the original and probably due to fail. Check your charging voltage. The 8gen R/R provides a very stable 14.5volts. You could have your battery load tested if you have any doubts, but suggest its probably due for replacement. You are unlucky to have a wax unit fail on a 2014 and batteries don't last forever so don't be too disappointed. The 8gen has the best electrical system of any VFR and has proven to be extremely reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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