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Bren

Cbr 954 upper. Fitment?

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So not to start another thread...

I noticed my forks were different lengths WTF? Measured while together and came to 6mm. I hadn´t intended taking the forks completely apart but as the fork seals needed changing I decided to take them to bits and find out where the difference came from. Well you gotta dont you?

gallery_12476_5185_611817.jpg

Difference in rod length 6mm + beer

You can see the rod length difference in this pic. 6mm. I don´t know why but the PO had obviously been in there and had the lower locking nut in a different position to the nut on the other fork. He must have noticed when he took the wheel out at some stage but chose to either ignore it or hit it into submission.

Thats whats left over from the special Christmas beer...mmmmm 8% beer happy days :wub:

Heres all the new bits installed on the slider.

gallery_12476_5185_1369325.jpg

New seals & bushings

:idea3: Bren

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Good going Bren.

I agree about the comment you or someone else made about re-installing the LBS. I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick. Taking the brake "system" off the bike has been the biggest PITA yet. I'm down to the bracket that runs from one side of the frame to the other behind the shock. Got all of the lines off (and yes, I got so frustrated with one line I just took some big ass cutting pliers and cut the SOB to get it off). Tonight will be removal of the shock so I can get the big "U" shaped bracket out from the internals of the bike. Big fingers and tiny spaces aren't a good combination.

Been spending a lot of time making up a "de-link" connector. I made one out of 316 SS and it looks good, but it was a learning exercise. Making the final one now. It's basically an H shaped piece with one leg short and the leg to the middle port long. I made it this way so I can bolt the new brake line to the outside of the rear most port. With this configuration, I can run any brand of brake line I want and not worry about the thickness of the middle port banjo fitting. Having to do lots of jig work as I'm trying to get it dead solid perfect to the thousandths of an inch. Ralph (Tok Tokkie) gave me some great pointers on working with silver solder to hook all of this up.

Forks are still at Ohlins. They took them apart and the PO had broken one of the rebound damping screw rods. Wheels are back from the paint shop and they are gorgeous.

BTW, did we ever figure out the difference between "twanged" and "pranged"? :idea3:

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Good going Bren.

I agree about the comment you or someone else made about re-installing the LBS. I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick. Taking the brake "system" off the bike has been the biggest PITA yet. I'm down to the bracket that runs from one side of the frame to the other behind the shock. Got all of the lines off (and yes, I got so frustrated with one line I just took some big ass cutting pliers and cut the SOB to get it off). Tonight will be removal of the shock so I can get the big "U" shaped bracket out from the internals of the bike. Big fingers and tiny spaces aren't a good combination.

Been spending a lot of time making up a "de-link" connector. I made one out of 316 SS and it looks good, but it was a learning exercise. Making the final one now. It's basically an H shaped piece with one leg short and the leg to the middle port long. I made it this way so I can bolt the new brake line to the outside of the rear most port. With this configuration, I can run any brand of brake line I want and not worry about the thickness of the middle port banjo fitting. Having to do lots of jig work as I'm trying to get it dead solid perfect to the thousandths of an inch. Ralph (Tok Tokkie) gave me some great pointers on working with silver solder to hook all of this up.

Forks are still at Ohlins. They took them apart and the PO had broken one of the rebound damping screw rods. Wheels are back from the paint shop and they are gorgeous.

BTW, did we ever figure out the difference between "twanged" and "pranged"? :wub:

Twanged is when it goes on with a rubber mallet, Pranged is when the sledgehammer is called into service :blush:

Luckily all on fleabay is not complete crap.

Been waiting for you to update your thread on the rear caliper bridge line. Fancy making 2 ?????

PO´s should not be allowed to work on their bikes, they will only bugger it up. Only " WE " can do it right and not cock it up :idea3:

Still waiting on pics Pete tongue.gif

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Good going Bren.

I agree about the comment you or someone else made about re-installing the LBS. I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick. Taking the brake "system" off the bike has been the biggest PITA yet. I'm down to the bracket that runs from one side of the frame to the other behind the shock. Got all of the lines off (and yes, I got so frustrated with one line I just took some big ass cutting pliers and cut the SOB to get it off). Tonight will be removal of the shock so I can get the big "U" shaped bracket out from the internals of the bike. Big fingers and tiny spaces aren't a good combination.

Been spending a lot of time making up a "de-link" connector. I made one out of 316 SS and it looks good, but it was a learning exercise. Making the final one now. It's basically an H shaped piece with one leg short and the leg to the middle port long. I made it this way so I can bolt the new brake line to the outside of the rear most port. With this configuration, I can run any brand of brake line I want and not worry about the thickness of the middle port banjo fitting. Having to do lots of jig work as I'm trying to get it dead solid perfect to the thousandths of an inch. Ralph (Tok Tokkie) gave me some great pointers on working with silver solder to hook all of this up.

Forks are still at Ohlins. They took them apart and the PO had broken one of the rebound damping screw rods. Wheels are back from the paint shop and they are gorgeous.

BTW, did we ever figure out the difference between "twanged" and "pranged"? :wub:

Twanged is when it goes on with a rubber mallet, Pranged is when the sledgehammer is called into service :blush:

Luckily all on fleabay is not complete crap.

Been waiting for you to update your thread on the rear caliper bridge line. Fancy making 2 ?????

PO´s should not be allowed to work on their bikes, they will only bugger it up. Only " WE " can do it right and not cock it up :idea3:

Still waiting on pics Pete tongue.gif

Pics will come when I have the piece finished to my satisfaction. Sending PM regarding 2.

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Hello, all..

I see that there's a lot of exprerience in this posting and I have a question. I have a 2003 954RR, and I would like to install Ohlins forks on it, the thing is that the they don't make them anymore. I can see here that it's possible to change the triples, if it's possible, how would I do it? I was thinking of using 1000RR triples, would they fit in my bike? Do I need to change the stem? What would happen with the brake setup? Would I have any problems with the front wheel (aligment, will be centered)?

Thank you for your time.

Good going Bren.

I agree about the comment you or someone else made about re-installing the LBS. I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a sharp stick. Taking the brake "system" off the bike has been the biggest PITA yet. I'm down to the bracket that runs from one side of the frame to the other behind the shock. Got all of the lines off (and yes, I got so frustrated with one line I just took some big ass cutting pliers and cut the SOB to get it off). Tonight will be removal of the shock so I can get the big "U" shaped bracket out from the internals of the bike. Big fingers and tiny spaces aren't a good combination.

Been spending a lot of time making up a "de-link" connector. I made one out of 316 SS and it looks good, but it was a learning exercise. Making the final one now. It's basically an H shaped piece with one leg short and the leg to the middle port long. I made it this way so I can bolt the new brake line to the outside of the rear most port. With this configuration, I can run any brand of brake line I want and not worry about the thickness of the middle port banjo fitting. Having to do lots of jig work as I'm trying to get it dead solid perfect to the thousandths of an inch. Ralph (Tok Tokkie) gave me some great pointers on working with silver solder to hook all of this up.

Forks are still at Ohlins. They took them apart and the PO had broken one of the rebound damping screw rods. Wheels are back from the paint shop and they are gorgeous.

BTW, did we ever figure out the difference between "twanged" and "pranged"? +1.gif

Twanged is when it goes on with a rubber mallet, Pranged is when the sledgehammer is called into service :blush:

Luckily all on fleabay is not complete crap.

Been waiting for you to update your thread on the rear caliper bridge line. Fancy making 2 ?????

PO´s should not be allowed to work on their bikes, they will only bugger it up. Only " WE " can do it right and not cock it up :blink:

Still waiting on pics Pete tongue.gif

Pics will come when I have the piece finished to my satisfaction. Sending PM regarding 2.

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Pete,

Pics will come when I have the piece finished to my satisfaction. Sending PM regarding 2.

Still fooling with that thing? I wondered what happened to ya... smile.gif Just was curious...

MD

Edited by mello dude

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Hello, all..

I see that there's a lot of exprerience in this posting and I have a question. I have a 2003 954RR, and I would like to install Ohlins forks on it, the thing is that the they don't make them anymore. I can see here that it's possible to change the triples, if it's possible, how would I do it? I was thinking of using 1000RR triples, would they fit in my bike? Do I need to change the stem? What would happen with the brake setup? Would I have any problems with the front wheel (aligment, will be centered)?

Thank you for your time.

WOW, only VFRd has non-vfr owners joining. :blink: +1.gif

Yes, early CBR1000RR Ohlins forks will slip right into your stock triples and should be readily available new. They will; however, be shorter than yours by a few mm's IIRC. This will speed up the handling but will also lower front end height which could lead to dragging hard parts (headers) earlier.

YMMV

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Hello, all..

I see that there's a lot of exprerience in this posting and I have a question. I have a 2003 954RR, and I would like to install Ohlins forks on it, the thing is that the they don't make them anymore. I can see here that it's possible to change the triples, if it's possible, how would I do it? I was thinking of using 1000RR triples, would they fit in my bike? Do I need to change the stem? What would happen with the brake setup? Would I have any problems with the front wheel (aligment, will be centered)?

Thank you for your time.

WOW, only VFRd has non-vfr owners joining. :beatdeadhorse: :fing02:

Yes, early CBR1000RR Ohlins forks will slip right into your stock triples and should be readily available new. They will; however, be shorter than yours by a few mm's IIRC. This will speed up the handling but will also lower front end height which could lead to dragging hard parts (headers) earlier.

YMMV

Well, what can I say, only that we all love Hondas. :wheel: First of all, thank you for your reply. So, you're saying that with no mods at all, the forks will slip in, correct? Does it really dro that much? And another question, reading the thread more closely, it seems like to me that I could esaly slip RC51 (SP1) forks into the upper and lower 954 triples, or the streering stem from the SP1 will fit in the 954 steering head. Am I relatively close to reality or not?

Thanks

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Pete,

Pics will come when I have the piece finished to my satisfaction. Sending PM regarding 2.

Still fooling with that thing? I wondered what happened to ya... smile.gif Just was curious...

MD

As a matter of fact my forks arrived from Ohlins today. The PO had really done a number on them. I replaced all of the seals/bushings/etc. I replaced the blue fork cap and outer leg on one of the forks. Gary at Ohlins had called earlier and the rebound adjustment rod was broken inside one of the forks. I think the guy I bought them from only had an adjustable wrench, a Swiss army knife, and various sized hammers for tools.

The fact the forks had Ohlins valves in them already was one of the reasons I purchased them. Now they have been completely rebuilt, revalved for mine and the VFR's weight, and a new set of 1.1 RaceTech springs installed. I supplied all of the parts except for the rebound adjustment rod. Ohlins did all of the work for $290. Not a bad price. Mike Fitzgerald (Thermosman) is working there now.

It looks like I'm making some progress on getting my back straightened out finally and I may get to ride this year after all.

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Hello, all..

I see that there's a lot of exprerience in this posting and I have a question. I have a 2003 954RR, and I would like to install Ohlins forks on it, the thing is that the they don't make them anymore. I can see here that it's possible to change the triples, if it's possible, how would I do it? I was thinking of using 1000RR triples, would they fit in my bike? Do I need to change the stem? What would happen with the brake setup? Would I have any problems with the front wheel (aligment, will be centered)?

Thank you for your time.

WOW, only VFRd has non-vfr owners joining. :tour: :fing02:

Yes, early CBR1000RR Ohlins forks will slip right into your stock triples and should be readily available new. They will; however, be shorter than yours by a few mm's IIRC. This will speed up the handling but will also lower front end height which could lead to dragging hard parts (headers) earlier.

YMMV

Well, what can I say, only that we all love Hondas. :fing02: First of all, thank you for your reply. So, you're saying that with no mods at all, the forks will slip in, correct? Does it really dro that much? And another question, reading the thread more closely, it seems like to me that I could esaly slip RC51 (SP1) forks into the upper and lower 954 triples, or the streering stem from the SP1 will fit in the 954 steering head. Am I relatively close to reality or not?

Thanks

Guys,

I'm thinking buying a 2001 SP1 front end, and I'm trying to sort any issues that I can come across with. By now, I think the different bolt dia. can be solved with different dia. bearings, right? (954rr rim vs rc51 rim) Now, I know that the 954 has a different dia. rotors, so that brings a caliper fitment issues, and I can't think of anything to fix that issue, is there's anything that can be done? Or is it to much trouble in that is not worth it? Can somebody please help me out?

Thanks

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