RC-51 fork installation

[Guest]

My fender never rubbed...

[VIFFER93]

Larry your right. The SP2 triple will not fit.

[Guest]

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

[Guest]

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

I'm 95% sure that my wheel(the Orange One) is an SP2, but it's been 2 years since I bought it, so I might be wrong..

[Guest]

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

I'm 95% sure that my wheel(the Orange One) is an SP2, but it's been 2 years since I bought it, so I might be wrong..

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Man when you buy stuff off of EBay, you never know what you're going to get.

[Guest]

My "supposed" SP-2 wheel looks like the orange one in the photograph above. Mine does not have a 360° machined surface where the disk bolts to the wheel. It just has 6 raised areas with 8 mm holes for bolting the disk to the rim.

Any ideas what my wheel and the orange wheel are?

I'm 95% sure that my wheel(the Orange One) is an SP2, but it's been 2 years since I bought it, so I might be wrong..

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Man when you buy stuff off of EBay, you never know what you're going to get.

AH, ok. Now I know that I have 954 Calipers, but I want to say that I have 929 disks....Man I have all this stuff written down at the house in my shop Manual, but I'm an ocean away right now. Sorry I'm not more help

[SEBSPEED]

Man when you buy stuff off of EBay, you never know what you're going to get.

Doesn't everyone enjoy a good mystery?

[FotoMoto]

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Here's a much easier way to tell: SP-1 have 6 spoke, SP-2 have 5 spoke (thus slightly lighter).

[Guest]

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem. I know my forks are SP-2 because that have the Showa sticker on them with the SP-2 part number.

Here's a much easier way to tell: SP-1 have 6 spoke, SP-2 have 5 spoke (thus slightly lighter).

Unfortunately, my wheel is at the wheel shop now having a flat spot repaired, scratches removed, and powder coated so I can't count spokes. I took my brake calipers up there this morning and they're going to paint my wheels gold to match the brake calipers.

I'll look just like FotoMoto then. :rolleyes:

[Guest]

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem.

I have an RC51 and have two sets of wheels; one SP-1 set and one SP-2 set. That orange one is an SP-1 front, as you correctly deduced.

I can confirm from first-hand experience that all of the bolt-on bits, including the rotors, are interchangeable. The SP-2 rotors are slightly thicker (1 mm?), but that's the only difference.

[Guest]

I just went on-line to RonAyers.com. You and I have SP-1 wheels, the others have SP-2 wheels. All of the bearings, axle, seal, spacer number check out the same between the SP-1 and SP-2. They do list different disks for the SP-2 than the SP-1. I'm going to get in touch with SubSailor over at RC-51 forum and see if I have any problem.

I have an RC51 and have two sets of wheels; one SP-1 set and one SP-2 set. That orange one is an SP-1 front, as you correctly deduced.

I can confirm from first-hand experience that all of the bolt-on bits, including the rotors, are interchangeable. The SP-2 rotors are slightly thicker (1 mm?), but that's the only difference.

Thanks for the info. I can breathe a sigh of relief now. This front end that I picked up is a real mish mash of various Honda parts.

SP-2 rotors are 0.5 mm thicker. I dropped off my brake caliper at the wheel shop this morning and told them to match the color of it when they repair and powder coat my wheel. I think it will really look sharp.

. . . . . . and going off on another tangent, the wheel shop is using a new type of method called Low Temp Powder Coating. Allows them to leave the bearings and seals in place. I checked it out on the web and it's the real deal. This stuff was invented so plastics, wood, and assemblies that can tolerate high temps can be powder coated.

I was really impressed with this place. They do a lot of wheels - I mean a lot. Place has about 12 employees and car rims/wheels out the wazoo. $155 to true my wheel using heat, vibration, and pressure. Final truing is done on a CNC lathe. Then it is stripped, blasted, primed, and powder coated. I looked at some car wheels they did and they were impressive. They can even do a super 12 layer process that makes your wheels reflective at night like a road sign is. Apparently it is something Mercedes has started doing with their wheels. The Mercedes wheels were the only ones I saw with it. Very expensive.

[KevCarver]

Are they Enkei wheels? My SP-1 came from the factory with Enkei's, not sure about the SP-2.

I also have both sets of rotors. My Marvics have SP-2 rotors, and I swap the wheels out no problem.

[SEBSPEED]

Do you have any color chips you can share with us? You said you're doing a Subaru gold, right?

[Guest]

Do you have any color chips you can share with us? You said you're doing a Subaru gold, right?

Originally I told them I wanted the Subaru WRX gold. They told me the wheels on the blue WRX's that had gold wheels were actually anodized so there isn't a paint code for the wheel. What I did instead is clean up one of my SP-2/929/954 brake calipers, dropped one off with them, and told them to match the wheel(s) to the caliper. I figure that will look good. My forks are a bronze looking color.

Haven't looked to see who manufactured the wheel as the wheel shop has it right now. I have figured out it's an SP-1 wheel and my rotors are SP-1. My forks are SP-2's (I've got an extra set plus they have the correct Showa part number on them). The guy on FleaBay advertised this front end as coming off a 2003 RC-51 which wound have made it an SP-2. Either he didn't know his stuff that well or he BS'ed me, but the package I wound up with is a potpourri of SP-1/SP-2/929/954 parts. I know my calipers are SP-2's as I bought an extra set off of FleaBay and then I measured the pistons. Going to order all new seals, pads, hardware, etc tomorrow when I get paid and completely rebuild the calipers. Figured I might as well install a new SP-2 master cylinder as well. They aren't outrageous and I don't feel like F'ing with all the little parts inside not really knowing if it's an SP-1 or SP-2. Front brakes aren't exactly the place to cut corners with my money and time.

I'll make it all work somehow, some way. This front end looks like it sat outside in the weather for a year or so. Lots of clean up, rubber replacement, hardware replacement to do. But there's a lot of good stuff underneath all of the rust and crud (like Ohlins valves inside by Thermosman).

Another typical FleaBay deal.

[Guest]

Are they Enkei wheels? My SP-1 came from the factory with Enkei's, not sure about the SP-2.

I also have both sets of rotors. My Marvics have SP-2 rotors, and I swap the wheels out no problem.

SP-1 rotors are 4.5 mm thick. SP-2 rotors are 5 mm thick. That's the only difference in the rotors.

[SAFE-T]

Now I know that I have 954 Calipers, but I want to say that I have 929 disks....Man I have all this stuff written down at the house in my shop Manual, but I'm an ocean away right now. Sorry I'm not more help

929/954 disks will bolt onto either an SP-1 or SP-2 wheel but are 10mm larger in diameter so will only work on 929/954 forks, or RC51 forks with radial brakes and a spacer to accomodate the larger size rotor.

[JTG]

Sweet! :fing02: Keep us up to speed on the rest of the hardware as you get it.... -- What wheel is that?

MD

RC Marchesini?

That remote won't last long in the dip tray on the grinder...

:goofy:

It seems like everyone has already confirmed what fits and what doesn't, but this is what I have going on;

SP2 Upper triple

929/954 Lower triple and stem (as already confirmed you have to grind the stops off)

SP2 Forks... I actually have three fork legs, anybody need one? I believe it's the left side off an '05...

SP2 Wheel and rotors

SP2 calipers

[Guest]

It seems like everyone has already confirmed what fits and what doesn't, but this is what I have going on;

SP2 Upper triple

929/954 Lower triple and stem (as already confirmed you have to grind the stops off)

SP2 Forks... I actually have three fork legs, anybody need one? I believe it's the left side off an '05...

SP2 Wheel and rotors

SP2 calipers

What's the problem with the 929/954 steering stem stops? I'll be to that point this weekend hopefully and a heads up and what I'm gonna run into would be helpful.

I was really hoping they would work.

From the information library that I'm slowing building in my noggin, there is no one true path to success in this project as a lot of SP-1/SP-2/929/954 parts interchange easily.

[Guest]

Two steps forward, one step backwards.

Metro Wheels called yesterday afternoon to tell me my wheel is ready. I go by there today to pick it up and it is absolutely gorgeous! I had them do the wheel in gold to match the brake calipers.

I get to looking at the wheel close, and whoever did the work in the shop painted over the machined surfaces where the disk bolt. I reminded him that I specifically instructed him to tape that area off.

I handed the wheel back and said "Have the guy do it right. Call me when it's ready".

[Veefer800Canuck]

If I had a dime for every time that happened to me Pete....... :biggrin:

Really, the only solution is to talk to the guy in the back who is actually DOING the work beforehand.

Not the front counter dude/dudette.

[Guest]

If I had a dime for every time that happened to me Pete....... :biggrin:

Really, the only solution is to talk to the guy in the back who is actually DOING the work beforehand.

Not the front counter dude/dudette.

Truer words have never been spoken. Lesson learned.

Jeez, the wheel looked good though. The guy did a great job of mixing the powder coat material to match the calipers.

[SEBSPEED]

If I had a dime for every time that happened to me Pete....... :fing02:

Really, the only solution is to talk to the guy in the back who is actually DOING the work beforehand.

Not the front counter dude/dudette.

Truer words have never been spoken. Lesson learned.

Jeez, the wheel looked good though. The guy did a great job of mixing the powder coat material to match the calipers.

First off, can you make up your mind and tell us if it's PAINT, or if it's POWDERCOAT? Please? :goofy:

Second, I would have handled that wheel situation a lot differently, because now you are at risk of having the incompetent guy sandblasting (or otherwise mechanically "cleaning") your machined rotor mount surfaces!!! Call them back asap!!

[Guest]

OK, got the wheel back pronto today. I got to talk with the guy who did the work, he apologized profusely, and said the info didn't make it from the front counter to the shop. The front counter guy I was dealing with was not to be found today.

They got the machined surfaces cleaned off and the wheel looks outstanding!

Seb - this a Ford color, reference 58303. What you see is 2 coats of polyurethane color coat, and 3 coats of clear on top of the color. I ask him why not low temp or regular temp powder coat and he said where he attaches the grounding wire would leave a mark.

He did an mild acid dip to the wheel, steel bead blasting, and then dipping again before painting. I've had several people (including folks on this website) recommend against the powder coating. This is something that can be touched up if necessary. My body shop buddy even recommended this same method. Problem is, he doesn't have a bead blaster or an acid dip. These folks do a ton of wheels a day so I figured they knew what prep and paint methods work more than some one guy shop in their garage somewhere.

I was especially impressed that the final truing of the wheel was done on a CNC lathe.

The best way to check all of what he did is mount up the brake disc, put the wheel in a jig, and put a dial indicator on it.

[Veefer800Canuck]

When I got my wheels powdercoated, they hung the wheel from the spray/bake rack using a metal T-hook through the valve stem hole. Then they ground the whole rack.

That way, the mark in the powdercoat from the hanger is hidden when you install your valve stems.

[SEBSPEED]

When I got my wheels powdercoated, they hung the wheel from the spray/bake rack using a metal T-hook through the valve stem hole. Then they ground the whole rack.

That way, the mark in the powdercoat from the hanger is hidden when you install your valve stems.

Ditto on my CBR F2 wheels that are on my '83 750F. :ph34r: