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Brake light blowing fuses - a little help pls?


masterkush

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(on a 5th gen)

My 10amp fuse blows straight away when I put EITHER brake light switch.

The rear pedal or the front brake.

So far I have:

Blown 3 fuses finding out it happened with either front brake or rear brake.

Taken the rear bulbs out. - still happens. (1 fuse)

Disconnected the bullet connectors to the rear brake light switch - still happens (on front brake) (1 fuse)

So..........

Got out a Multimeter and set it to BUZZ if it makes a circuit.

It DOESN'T buzz when on the 2 bullets coming from the rear brake - until you apply it (So that is good right?)

It buzzes across ANY and ALL of the terminals leading to the rear lights.

Now I'm just plain confused - what next??????

Any help appreciated.

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On the brake light circuit, The green and yellow wire is the common wire that becomes "hot" when either switch is activated. A quick check would lead me to believe that the green and yellow is shorted somewhere (bare or cracked wire touching metal, or two wire melted together). Using the multimeter on the resistance setting (OHM) at the rear, remove the brake light bulbs and check for continuity between the green and yellow wire and the batt ground. This will confirm the problem. Then all you have to do is either find the short or run new wires from switches to the brake light sockets.

good luck Jesse

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good luck Jesse

Thanks Jesse I'll try it.

I think I have the multimeter set up right because I can get it to buzz when I disconnect the bullets to the rear brake actuator and get it to buzz when I apply it. Where I am really confused though is if I bridge ANY of the terminals that go to the bulbs at the rear OR the indicators they ALL buzz. Now that doesn't make sense to me as I know the indicators work but whether the ignition is off or on and they still buzz. Am I doing something stupid? (probably)

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unplug the rear break switch - check - if ok then problem with the switch

unplug the front break switch - check - if ok then problem with this switch

possible short in wire...

unplug the fuse. check continuity across the fuse and the bulbs...you should be able to isolate where the issues is.

Regards

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The reason you'd get buzzing from situations you wouldn't expect is quite simple. In an electrical circuit even though two circuits may seem unrelated there are sometimes common points somewhere. For example all the power for the entire bike all tracers back to the battery. and because electricity will always take the path of least resistance this can play funny tricks when doing tests, especially resistance (OHM). If there is say 1000000 ohm's of resistance (a lot) on a circuit but not "infinite" the buzzer will sound. Try to not get caught up trying different things it'll get confusing.

Your concern is with the brake lights only (right?). so stay in that circuit. concentrate on the yellow and green wire. Do the test I mentioned this morning and post results. we'll go from there.

Jesse

P.S. It can't be the switches it's their job to let the current through. The only way they can fail is always on (shorted in the switch) or always off (switch isn't letting the current through).

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Thanks again Jesse - you have addressed my confusion, thanks for that, it makes sense what you say - I'll try and focus :-)

There is a 'Force 11' gale outside at the moment. Britain's worst coastal storm of the year so far.

If I try and get in the garage I might lose the doors.

The lifeboat volunteers went out last night too, brave lads, I cannot say I'd like to join them.

I'll get to it as soon as I'm able.

Thank you very much for your help.

Mark

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