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30 min fork oil change- On bike


Baileyrock

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Actually I was changing out comp. & rebound valves, but no reason you couldn't use this method for the same or just a quick oil change. :beer:

Click on any pic to enlarge!

First off place bike on center stand and place a jack under the front of the exhaust headers and unload the front wheel(off ground).

Then remove the axle (I did not remove the calipers or wheel)

Place a drain pan under the fork leg (I suggest only doing one side at a time) and remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg that holds the dampen rod assy.

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Some oil will drain at this point, now remove fork cap and allow the remaining oil to drain.

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Now you can remove the entire cartridge assy. (Note these are F4i forks on my track Vtec)

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At this point you can clean & rebuild the cartridge assy on the bench (I changed both the comp. & rebound valve assy & fork springs) and with empty tubes, you can easily flush out the fork tubes while still on the bike.

If you want/need to work on either valve you need to push the lower valve(comp) up into the bottom of the cartridge to expose the inner c-clip, once removed (C-clip) you just push everything out the bottom of the cartridge with the upper rod.

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I reinstall the fork Cap and tighten the bottom bolt again.

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Repeat procedure on the other fork!

At this point I reinstall the axle, then remove both caps & springs allowing me to add and set fork oil level. Pump/stroke the dampen rod several times until oil comes out the top of the inner tube, then reinstall springs and fork caps. Pump the forks a few times w/the brake on and tighten the last axle pinch bolt and your done!

(Be sure to clean off any thing that may have got on rotors, pads or calipers)

Nothing to it, quick & clean! :dry:

BR's method 2213. wink.gif

Note: On oil level:

I've already done all the calculations to achieve correct oil levels while forks are still on the bike! It amounts to ADDING 10mm from measured oil level height to give true level. ie: measure 100mm level on bike, actual is 110mm. You will need to add an additional 10cc of oil to compensate for the fork angle.

If you have the actual cc amount (like 500cc's per leg) then you don't have to worry about it.

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glad to see you made your way out to the shop!

only question with this technique is that i thought getting that screw out of the bottom was a royal pain in the Arse...yes?

is it somehow easier using f4i shocks?

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glad to see you made your way out to the shop!

only question with this technique is that i thought getting that screw out of the bottom was a royal pain in the Arse...yes?

is it somehow easier using f4i shocks?

I have Not made it out to the shop yet! :blink:

This work was done prior to my crash! :beer:

I've never had an issue removing the bottom fork bolt as long as I keep the fork fully assembled and us a Impact wrench! :dry:

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Guest Pete McCrary

Once you've had the bolt out that screws into the compression damper, it comes out fairly easily in future removals. For whatever reason, the first time is the worse time.

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glad to see you made your way out to the shop!

only question with this technique is that i thought getting that screw out of the bottom was a royal pain in the Arse...yes?

is it somehow easier using f4i shocks?

I have Not made it out to the shop yet! :dry:

This work was done prior to my crash! :fing02:

I've never had an issue removing the bottom fork bolt as long as I keep the fork fully assembled and us a Impact wrench! :blush:

A Impact wrench is the biggest key factor here for removal, A little pressure from the forks being intact allows the quick Banging action of the Impact to work.. Like lightly holding a wrench on a bolt while using a Impact, You dont need much...

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any reason the cheap, hammer actuated impact wrench couldn't be used, or could that hurt anything?

For whatever reason any method other than an air impact just doesn't seem to work as well! You can use my impact anytime you want and I have a mini compressor your can use to run it if you don't have one! :fing02:

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On the VTEC and the 5th gen, that drain bolt isn't in such a convenient location as on the F4i forks... it's on the upside face of the inside the axle housing, so you have to pull the front wheel off and remove the pinch bolt(s) completely to access the bolt that holds all the fork internals in place... I have never needed an impact wrench to get this bolt out, but a friend of mine did bugger his altogether, which means getting a new (or second hand) internal cartridge...

But never fear, it is doable without removing the forks.. just a wee bit more complicated than for the F4i... but hey, removing the front wheel is as easy as dropping a fart...

Obviously you won't get all the old fork oil out but I guess it's better than not changing the oil ever...

I use a jack under the headers to support the bike without the wheel.

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On the VTEC and the 5th gen, that drain bolt isn't in such a convenient location as on the F4i forks... it's on the upside face of the inside the axle housing, so you have to pull the front wheel off and remove the pinch bolt(s) completely to access the bolt that holds all the fork internals in place... I have never needed an impact wrench to get this bolt out, but a friend of mine did bugger his altogether, which means getting a new (or second hand) internal cartridge...

But never fear, it is doable without removing the forks.. just a wee bit more complicated than for the F4i... but hey, removing the front wheel is as easy as dropping a fart...

Obviously you won't get all the old fork oil out but I guess it's better than not changing the oil ever...

I use a jack under the headers to support the bike without the wheel.

Actually the VFR & F4i forks are exactly the same design as far as bolt location, the only difference is that the VFR uses a smaller bolt size than the F4i. Still no need to pull the wheel, just remove the axle (& pinch bolt if needed) and you have full access to the bolts in the bottom of the forks.

Also no reason not be able to flush every bit of old oil from the tubes when there empty and use compress air to blow out any remaining flushing fluid that might still be there. :ohmy:

Easy, simple, quick! Unless you need to replace seals or tube bushings there's no reason to pull the forks or any bodywork! :fing02:

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Guest silkysmooth

Since I have never added fork oil when did known the correct amount?Is it by volume or height,and did you need some sort of gauge to measure fluid hieght

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Since I have never added fork oil when did known the correct amount?Is it by volume or height,and did you need some sort of gauge to measure fluid hieght

Most manuals show a number (distance from top of fork tube to top of oil in a compressed fork w/no spring in it) like 110 mm.

They use to show cc's, but don't seem to do that any more.

There a simple tool they sell that you just set the mm's needed and slide a tube down into the fork, you suck out any extra above the desired distance. :angry:

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There a simple tool they sell that you just set the mm's needed and slide a tube down into the fork, you suck out any extra above the desired distance. :angry:

Screw that tool, they want $25 for that thing! :laugh: Just pick up a syringe, a piece of rubber tube, and a 6-8" piece of small aluminum tube. Connect the aluminum tube to the syringe with the rubber hose, and you have the same tool(almost) for about $5.

Instead of the nifty height-setting attachment that you get with the 'real' tool, just measure & mark the AL tube with a Sharpie. :laugh:

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A hand pump vacumn bleeder for brakes works well also, I have the Correct tool now but the first time I just Zip tied the hose of a brake bleeder to a Bent clothes hanger and hung it on the side of the fork, Works well. If you oops and fill the fork to the top once you get the fluid flowing to the cup hold it below the level of the forks, remove top off of the cup and let it drain back into the bottle, Walla your done..

There are probably 100 ways to get the same results..

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On the VTEC and the 5th gen, that drain bolt isn't in such a convenient location as on the F4i forks... it's on the upside face of the inside the axle housing, so you have to pull the front wheel off and remove the pinch bolt(s) completely to access the bolt that holds all the fork internals in place... I have never needed an impact wrench to get this bolt out, but a friend of mine did bugger his altogether, which means getting a new (or second hand) internal cartridge...

But never fear, it is doable without removing the forks.. just a wee bit more complicated than for the F4i... but hey, removing the front wheel is as easy as dropping a fart...

Obviously you won't get all the old fork oil out but I guess it's better than not changing the oil ever...

I use a jack under the headers to support the bike without the wheel.

Actually the VFR & F4i forks are exactly the same design as far as bolt location, the only difference is that the VFR uses a smaller bolt size than the F4i. Still no need to pull the wheel, just remove the axle (& pinch bolt if needed) and you have full access to the bolts in the bottom of the forks.

Also no reason not be able to flush every bit of old oil from the tubes when there empty and use compress air to blow out any remaining flushing fluid that might still be there. :beer:

Easy, simple, quick! Unless you need to replace seals or tube bushings there's no reason to pull the forks or any bodywork! :fing02:

OK, I'll hand it to you, you are technically right, won't hold it against you :beer: but I guess it's almost a matter of semantics... if you pull the axle it's almost synonymous with pulling the wheel... the difference being you leave the wheel there instead of putting it aside... basically I was trying to point out that the drainage bolt isn't in as convenient a location as on the F4i forks, which have it on the outside of the fork lower, no removal of axle required...

Flushing would help, but it can't be as clean a change as pulling the forks and doing it proper but it's a good quick alternative which I myself have used to renew fork oil!!

FULL MARKS TO BAILEY!!

(rasafrasarasafrasa... Muttley groan)

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basically I was trying to point out that the drainage bolt isn't in as convenient a location as on the F4i forks, which have it on the outside of the fork lower, no removal of axle required...

No, that's the point. There is no drainage bolt per say on either fork, it's just the bolt that holds the cartridge in place. The bolt location is identical, in fact every conventional fork has to have the same set-up to hold the cartridge assembly in the bottom of the fork tubes and the axle would be in the way one each one. Don't know if it's my picture or what making you believe there different because there is NO drain bolt on the side of the F4i fork?

Now there are some forks, usually older one's that have extra drain bolts on the bottom sides of the forks, but VFR & F4/f4i's are not one's. :fing02:

I hope I've clarified what I'm saying this time. :unsure:

:blush:

BR

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Don't know if it's my picture or what making you believe there different because there is NO drain bolt on the side of the F4i fork?

Maybe Auspañol thinks the compression valve is a drain bolt. It is in the same postion as where the drain bolts are on 3rd gen. fork lowers.

Pump the forks a few times w/the brake on and tighten the last axle pinch bolt and your done!

Next time try to pump the forks without putting pressure on the brakes but by putting some 2x4 in front of the front tire. Can really reduce fork sticktion.

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Maybe Auspañol thinks the compression valve is a drain bolt. It is in the same postion as where the drain bolts are on 3rd gen. fork lowers.

You are a smart man my friend, I bet that is exactly it! :fing02:

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Maybe Auspañol thinks the compression valve is a drain bolt. It is in the same postion as where the drain bolts are on 3rd gen. fork lowers.

You are a smart man my friend, I bet that is exactly it! :fing02:

Probably. My 81 has a fork oil drain plug.

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Guest silkysmooth

Sometimes... I see things :fing02:

And I'm the one on DRUGS! :goofy:

Glad we got it figured out! :unsure:

I'll need some drugs to get through this job,guess that's why I have let it ride several months :blush:

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basically I was trying to point out that the drainage bolt isn't in as convenient a location as on the F4i forks, which have it on the outside of the fork lower, no removal of axle required...

No, that's the point. There is no drainage bolt per say on either fork, it's just the bolt that holds the cartridge in place. The bolt location is identical, in fact every conventional fork has to have the same set-up to hold the cartridge assembly in the bottom of the fork tubes and the axle would be in the way one each one. Don't know if it's my picture or what making you believe there different because there is NO drain bolt on the side of the F4i fork?

Now there are some forks, usually older one's that have extra drain bolts on the bottom sides of the forks, but VFR & F4/f4i's are not one's. :fing02:

I hope I've clarified what I'm saying this time. :unsure:

:blush:

BR

BR, please note that the 95 4th gen and earlier did have a fork oil drainbolt at the bottom aft side of the lower fork tubes. I think the 3rd gen bikes had them too. They decided to save some money and blank out that bolt with the 96 VFR and later...........VFR de-evolution or simply just an attempt by Honda to force fork oil replacement towards the dealerships??....Kachinnnggg!!

Beck

95 VFR

Edited by Beck
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BR, please note that the 95 4th gen and earlier did have a fork oil drainbolt at the bottom aft side of the lower fork tubes. I think the 3rd gen bikes had them too. They decided to save some money and blank out that bolt with the 96 VFR and later...........VFR de-evolution or simply just an attempt by Honda to force fork oil replacement towards the dealerships??....Kachinnnggg!!

Beck

95 VFR

That was a Major weight savings Move! :unsure:

Thanks Beck,

It doesn't really matter if a different model has a drain hole/plug or not, I'm mostly referring to later model VFR's but didn't want to just stick this method in the 6th gen section as it should apply to most any conventional cartridge fork equipped bike. It should also allow better cleaning/flushing than even drain plug equipped forks and allows you to mod the comp. & rebound valves or shim stacks while your in there and with a fraction of the labor time involved vs standard fork removal to do the same work. :fing02:

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  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer

Kevin a couple questions if I may...

Did you have any trouble setting your oil level with the forks at an angle. I just had RaceTech tell me that the level was very important and the forks needed to be straight up to get it right. I plan on changing the valves and springs without removing the forks based on inspiration from this thread, can I do it you think?

Thanks Kevin.

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