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Stainless Exhaust System


93 VFR750 RC36

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Not sure yet but should ride on the weekend. I'm still doing the last of the bodywork. See my rebuild thread for details.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/61955-rebuilding-my-93-rc36/

Last night was the first fire-up since I started the rebuild. Sounds awesome! Even with the spud in it sounds pretty good. Not as muted as my Scorpion can with the spud in and a deeper growl.

Carbs are out of balance by 4-6 in.hg so I've got to sort that out and then hit the road.

Stew

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Not wishing to detract from thefine work above, Sandy Exhaust are Chinese imports and do not have a reputation for quality in the UK VFR forum.

For a quality s/s exhaust UK Viffers fit Motad - the fit of which has been developed and is now seen as exceelent. Motad also offer a lower cost/lower quality unit, called the Venom I think but not sure.

Tony

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Tony,

You're entirely correct about the SBS exhausts, hence the work detailed above. The right exit system (replacing stock) is indeed a feat of insanity. I was sent one by mistake and even if I'd ordered it, would have sent it back immediately. The collector section was terrible with poor joins/bends everywhere. I'd be surprised if the engine could even be made to run with that system fitted.

The right exit system benefits from only having two joins in the centre section and all the bends are smooth. Both these joins have the problems you see above, but the rest of the system is OK. There are no dents/crimps in any of the pipes and the downpipe flange welds that meet the head are much better than the ones in the OEM I took off.

I talked to Motad and it would seem that Predator are Motad in budget form.

I went for the SBS because I am capable of fixing the join myself, got a good price and wanted left exit. I would NOT recommend their right exit replacement system and I would only recommend the left exit to someone who can cut and weld SS to a decent standard.

I'll have the bike on a dyno soon and will be able to let everyone know if this is a mistake or not.

Stew

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To further back my previous post, here are a few pics of the right exit system I was sent by mistake. A warning for all potential buyers - if you go for SBS, get the left exit and make sure you have the skills (or friend with the skills) to cut and weld SS exhaust.

In the first photo have a close look inside the pipe. You can see a ragged oxy-acetylene cut hole in the side. THIS IS THE JOIN!!! Not pretty!

med_gallery_5709_5434_38619.jpg

Can anyone say square corners/poor joins?

med_gallery_5709_5434_560180.jpg

med_gallery_5709_5434_3209069.jpg

med_gallery_5709_5434_560180.jpg

In summary this exhaust is good from afar but far from good. Wouldn't put one on my bike.

Stew

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  • Member Contributer

if i had a donor i can get a group buy done on a few sets within a few weeks. they can come ceramic coated too and the merges will be nicer for sure

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if i had a donor i can get a group buy done on a few sets within a few weeks. they can come ceramic coated too and the merges will be nicer for sure

We should get someone to send you a Two Brothers exhaust to replicate!

Also, I have a Vance & Hines full 2-2 system for my 1983 VF750F(also fits VF700F) that needs to be re-made in SS.

I'm certain we can get interest in both if you can provide an idea of cost in a separate thread?

I can volunteer to provide a right exit Two Brothers exhaust(4th gen, 94-97), and my V&H 2+2 (83-85 VF700/750F) ...

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if i had a donor i can get a group buy done on a few sets within a few weeks. they can come ceramic coated too and the merges will be nicer for sure

We should get someone to send you a Two Brothers exhaust to replicate!

Also, I have a Vance & Hines full 2-2 system for my 1983 VF750F(also fits VF700F) that needs to be re-made in SS.

I'm certain we can get interest in both if you can provide an idea of cost in a separate thread?

I can volunteer to provide a right exit Two Brothers exhaust(4th gen, 94-97), and my V&H 2+2 (83-85 VF700/750F) ...

we should get a new thread going if you don't mind?

three weeks is about the rough turn around from fixture to copies.

The first pipe is the most expensive as i have to pay for a fixture so say 5+ helps eat that initail cost if you will

alot will depend on muffler options too but roughly with a cool muffler and ceramic coating full SS $600-$750. i get around $325 just for a GP carbon muffler alone but we can get some deals going for sure if we get enough people, i say about 5+ would make it rock and i would have to get the firn numbers of course but they won't be $400.

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  • 2 months later...

To further back my previous post, here are a few pics of the right exit system I was sent by mistake.  A warning for all potential buyers - if you go for SBS, get the left exit and make sure you have the skills (or friend with the skills) to cut and weld SS exhaust.

In summary this exhaust is good from afar but far from good.  Wouldn't put one on my bike.

Stew

I bought a set of right exit SBS headers for my 96 VFR.  The design is much better than the 3rd gen headers, and externally it looks good.

!BU)FBVgB2k~$(KGrHgoOKj8EjlLmUE61BKPN9Cuyww~~_12.JPG

I had similar problems to you though, see my post here.  I'm going to have to do the same as you to sort it.  I can't weld stainless, but I know a man who can.

SBS headers are £185, Motad are nearly £400.  When I only paid £750 for the bike it's a no brainer really.

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  • 7 months later...

Druid,

How did you get on with your SBS exhaust modifications? I noticed from your post that your internal joins were even worse than mine.

I'm now getting 106.5hp out of my bike. Modified intake and SBS exhaust seems to work. I've done some looking around and it looks like my exhaust (and yours by the look of it) is a copy of a Remus pattern but with terrible joins.

Hope you're on the road now and running well.

Stew

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I've done some looking around and it looks like my exhaust (and yours by the look of it) is a copy of a Remus pattern but with terrible joins.

I didn't think Remus ever made a full exhaust system?

In case anyone was wondering, I've attached below some pics of the original Motad 3rd-gen replacement stainless steel headers. The 3rd-gen muffler attachment point is notoriously difficult to replicate (apparently)...with the result being some rather frightening joins across the board...

gallery_362_402_39341.jpg

0110 Motad RC36-I stainless steel replacement headers, purchased new in 1998.

gallery_362_402_43571.jpg

0109 Motad RC36-I stainless steel replacement headers, purchased new in 1998.

gallery_362_402_36921.jpg

0108 Motad RC36-I stainless steel replacement headers, purchased new in 1998.

Ciao,

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In case anyone was wondering, I've attached below some pics of the original Motad 3rd-gen replacement stainless steel headers. The 3rd-gen muffler attachment point is notoriously difficult to replicate (apparently)...with the result being some rather frightening joins across the board...

What's up with the groovy dent there? Surely not a performance enhancement on a brand new header?

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Druid,

How did you get on with your SBS exhaust modifications? I noticed from your post that your internal joins were even worse than mine.

I'm now getting 106.5hp out of my bike. Modified intake and SBS exhaust seems to work. I've done some looking around and it looks like my exhaust (and yours by the look of it) is a copy of a Remus pattern but with terrible joins.

Hope you're on the road now and running well.

Stew

Yes, all done. I did a build thread on a UK forum, this is what I posted about my exhaust issues.

First impressions were ok, reasonably tidy welds and a decent finish but I was horrified to see just how little care had gone into the production of the pipes.

IMG_2395.jpg

This is what I saw when I looked down the pipe from the front cylinder - only about a quarter of the pipe was open, so gas flow was going to be somewhat restricted. The other pipe was almost as bad. A bit of research showed that this was a common problem with these pipes and if I returned it the replacement would be just as bad. OE downpipes are £325 from David Silver, or Motad do s/s replacements for £385 so I would just have to see what I could do with the set I had. I couldn't actually get to the bits that needed attention so I had to cut off a length of pipe to give me access.

IMG_2811.jpg

It was a bit scary taking an angle grinder to a set of brand new exhausts but it had to be done. One pipe had a weld a couple of inches from the joint so I cut through there, and cut the second pipe to a similar length. I could now get a flexible drill drive with a grinding stone in the pipe and started grinding away the excess metal. Trouble is stainless steel work hardens when it gets hot, so it's a very slow process. I would do a bit, get pissed off with the lack of progress and put it away and do something else instead, then come back to it a week later. It's nearly there - not perfect but a hell of a lot better than it was.

IMG_2814.jpg

A mate of a mate can TIG weld, and a bottle of scotch later the pipes are all back together.

IMG_2816.jpg

They were surprisingly easy to fit with new gaskets and plenty of copper grease on the studs.

IMG_2820.jpg

The high level silencer shows off the SSSA quite nicely, I think, and cost £23 from ebay. It is an unknown make, but it is road legal so it will replace the noisy Micron I had fitted - the Micron will go on ebay to make some of the money back.

IMG_2819.jpg

If anybody wants to read the whole thread, click here :)

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  • Member Contributer

In case anyone was wondering, I've attached below some pics of the original Motad 3rd-gen replacement stainless steel headers. The 3rd-gen muffler attachment point is notoriously difficult to replicate (apparently)...with the result being some rather frightening joins across the board...

What's up with the groovy dent there? Surely not a performance enhancement on a brand new header?

Yes it was...and stop calling me Shirley!

Ciao,

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  • Member Contributer

Wow! That is some piss poor manufacturing there.

:+1:

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  • 3 years later...

anyone know if this would fit an 86?

the reason i ask is because i can tig ok (not great but ok) and im not scared to take a 9" to shiny stuff.

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