Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted August 25, 2002 Forum CEO Share Posted August 25, 2002 Clutch This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag. The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand ( Bleeding a standard VTEC We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with. Removeing the Plastic on the right side With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them. Proportion valve bleeder on the left side Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle. Begin Bleeding The front Brakes Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front) You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out. Cruddy fluid still coming out Now go to the left side and do the top valve. The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on. Doing the Back Master Cylinder Remove the cap and diaphragm I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding. The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up. If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint! The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out. Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid. Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve. Clutch Line Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted June 2, 2007 Author Forum CEO Share Posted June 2, 2007 Clutch This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag. The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand ( Bleeding a standard VTEC We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with. Removeing the Plastic on the right side With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them. Proportion valve bleeder on the left side Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle. Begin Bleeding The front Brakes Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front) You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out. Cruddy fluid still coming out Now go to the left side and do the top valve. The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on. Doing the Back Master Cylinder Remove the cap and diaphragm I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding. The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up. If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint! The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out. Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid. Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve. Clutch Line Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted October 5, 2009 Author Forum CEO Share Posted October 5, 2009 B Brake and clutch bleeding for a Honda VFR vtec Clutch This is cake if you just did your brakes! remove the cap to the clutch fluid, suck it out or use a rag. The bleeder bib is on the clutch slave cylinder near the kickstand ( Bleeding a standard VTEC We began by removing the seat and prepping the back area for work. Take off the 2 black Plastic pieces on both sides of the tank. Actually its not necessary to remove the piece on the right side but It could be a bit of a hassle to deal with. Removeing the Plastic on the right side With the plastic removed you have more room to work, push in the center of the plastic clips to remove them. Proportion valve bleeder on the left side Left side removed covers the proportion valve and battery Turn the handlebar to level the master cylinder remove the cap, plate, and diaphram My vacuum bleeder has an auto filler that seals off the master cylinder and siphons in new fluid from a fill bottle. Begin Bleeding The front Brakes Begin on the right side top bleeder (its the only bleed valve on the right front) You vacuum until its clean fluid then pump the bar hold it and close the valve. You will get air in the bleeder line its unavoidable, just make sure its clean coming out. Cruddy fluid still coming out Now go to the left side and do the top valve. The bleeders on the calipers are 8mm, after you get clean fluid pump the handle again hold it and close off the bleeder Top off the master cylinder and your done with the front, put the cap and stuff back on. Doing the Back Master Cylinder Remove the cap and diaphragm I suck out the master cylinders first and top off with new fluid before bleeding. The siphon filler would not seal cause of the ABS plastic was holding it up. If you spill brake fluid clean it up with soapy water right away or it will eat the paint! The center valve on the front left caliper is connected to the rear master cylinder start there They recommend that you remove the caliper and hold it at 45 degrees to help the air bubbles float out, they also say to replace the calipers bolts when you remove them. NAH! Power bleeder!! I just push on the secondary master cylinder above the caliper to pump the air out. Push on the caliper forward to pump the secondary master cylinder The Proportion valve wont bleed at all until you pump the petal, its 10mm wrench Top off the rear reservoir so it doesn't go dry, start with the rear top bleeder The old fluid is very dark! you will use a lot of fluid to do the VFR! almost a liter, we used synthetic Valvoline brake fluid. Getting to the valves on the rear caliper is a pain in the butt you can see a glimpse of the top bleeder in this shot Again pump the petal hold it and then close the valve, do the front valve after the top valve. Clutch Line Remove the cap, suck out the bad fluid, top it off Location of the slave bleeder on the left side of the bike Check the firmness of the levers and petal and make sure the clutch operates. If you feel spongy then you still have air in the system you will need to re-bleed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MadMax Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 Which one of the three versions is the correct one? :unsure: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted September 28, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2010 Which one of the three versions is the correct one? :unsure: Bleeding order - Front Brake - Right outer - Left outer - Rear brake - Right Center Front - Left Center Front - PCV - Rear Center (if you can't access the bleeds, may have to remove the wheel and caliper and move it to 2 o'clock position) - Rear Outer Get speed bleeders fitted - saves time and effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oubaa Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 I'm planning on doing the clutch fluid tomorrow. I've been reading some stuff, and since I don't have a vacuum pump, I'll be doing it the old fashioned way (with just a hose on the bleeder). It seems simpler too. The only thing that really puts me off is removing the left side of the fairing (5th gen). I'm scared of scratching it, breaking the clips, or it not fitting perfectly when re-installed. I did read however something about leaving pressure on the handlebar overnight with a zipty. What's that all about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MarcoatCA Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 I'm planning on doing the clutch fluid tomorrow. I've been reading some stuff, and since I don't have a vacuum pump, I'll be doing it the old fashioned way (with just a hose on the bleeder). It seems simpler too. The only thing that really puts me off is removing the left side of the fairing (5th gen). I'm scared of scratching it, breaking the clips, or it not fitting perfectly when re-installed. I did read however something about leaving pressure on the handlebar overnight with a zipty. What's that all about? I guess the zipty is for checking for leaks. I just installed Galfer Lines and I guess I have to re-bleed the rear. Initial spongy feel but after 1 pedal press its firm after 1 or 2 minutes back to sponge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer skymon Posted April 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted April 1, 2012 I'm a little confused about the PCV bleed. I changed all my bleed valves out to speed bleeders and just want to make sure I didn't introduce any air in the lines in the process. Not clear to me whether I should pump the secondary master cylinder or the rear pedal to bleed air out the PCV. The secondary master cylinder pumping doesn't feel very positive. Did I screw it up if I did both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted April 1, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted April 1, 2012 I'm a little confused about the PCV bleed. I changed all my bleed valves out to speed bleeders and just want to make sure I didn't introduce any air in the lines in the process. Not clear to me whether I should pump the secondary master cylinder or the rear pedal to bleed air out the PCV. The secondary master cylinder pumping doesn't feel very positive. Did I screw it up if I did both? Correct process Front Brake - Right outer - Left outer Rear brake - Right Center Front - Left Center Front - (remove and Tilt the Front left CApiler to 15 degrees - to release any air bubbles to the PCV) - PCV - (Fit Front Left Capliper back) - (remove wheel and rear caliper, move to 2 o'clock position) - Rear Center - Rear Outer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormShadow Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 only an octopus can get to that top valve on the rear brake caliper. but i did it all today, just not the top bleed valve, seems to be alright though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted June 26, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted June 26, 2013 only an octopus can get to that top valve on the rear brake caliper. but i did it all today, just not the top bleed valve, seems to be alright though. It is quite a tight squeeze there. ideally you are suppose to take it out the entire caliper and move it to 2 o'clock position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AB-Oz Posted June 26, 2013 Share Posted June 26, 2013 like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted June 27, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted June 27, 2013 like this: the caliper is at 12 o'clock ...should be at 2 o'clock so the bleed valve is upwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormShadow Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 next time ill do that i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenixfire Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) How can you tell if your lines are free of air bubbles? I just change my brake and clutch fluid for the first time. After a happy dance of finally doing it myself someone has now got me all paranoid by saying "if an air bubble crept up in there you wont have any brakes". I took the bike out right after changing the fluid and the brakes were nice and smooth all the way through. I then practiced some emergency braking and all seems well (slightly better actually). Can air bubbles show themselves over time or would you be able to notice them right away? Is there any way to ensure the lines are free of air bubbles? Edited June 30, 2013 by phoenixfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Willy Posted June 30, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted June 30, 2013 HS, thanks for the great write up. I have this on my maint. list for end of this summer season. Ernie . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted July 1, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted July 1, 2013 How can you tell if your lines are free of air bubbles? I just change my brake and clutch fluid for the first time. After a happy dance of finally doing it myself someone has now got me all paranoid by saying "if an air bubble crept up in there you wont have any brakes". I took the bike out right after changing the fluid and the brakes were nice and smooth all the way through. I then practiced some emergency braking and all seems well (slightly better actually). Can air bubbles show themselves over time or would you be able to notice them right away? Is there any way to ensure the lines are free of air bubbles? spongy brake lever/pedal, dragging of brakes, lever/pedal going all the way and very less response on the brakes - are first sign of air in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VfrViddy Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Hey.Can air in CBS cause vibration?Thinking about the left caliper and the travel it has up and down.Got som mystery vibration that I got when I first put wilbers Springs in my forks. Thats the first thing I did. And only that. Now I can not get rid of it.I changed my breaks disc half a year before this, so i was pretty sure this was not the problem.Done som serious work and I'm soon out of ideas. Things I have done after the problem... ..in this orderSteering heads bearings Wheel bearing Changed tiresNew Brembo break pads. Fork sealings and bushing, and vtr fork rod swap with compression gold valve and rebound valve re-shimming. (inkluded wilbers fork springs) Meassured semi floating Rotor discs ( within specs: 5-6/1000) ? Just ordered new Galfer discs anyway. Last thing to try is bleed my brakes.Wondering if trapped air in the system can cause brakes to "bounce"..Brakes have a nice bite and feel to them and I can not feel any in motion in the break handle. so there is something mysterious going on here. Edited July 28, 2015 by VfrViddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 On 4/1/2012 at 10:27 AM, AnikMankar said: Correct process Front Brake - Right outer - Left outer Rear brake - Right Center Front <<<< - Left Center Front  <<<< - (remove and Tilt the Front left CApiler to 15 degrees - to release any air bubbles to the PCV) - PCV - (Fit Front Left Capliper back) - (remove wheel and rear caliper, move to 2 o'clock position) - Rear Center - Rear Outer Okay this makes no sense <<  What is the "right center front" or "left center front?" That's not clear at all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 9, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted December 9, 2017 I think the way he was referring to this made a distinction between the 3 pistons  on the front calipers.  The two outermost ones are operated by the front lever, which have their own bleed valve while the center piston is operated by the rear brake pedal via the proportioning control valve.  The center piston has its own bleed valve which is oriented to the horizontal when the caliper is installed.  Hence the recommendation to tilt it up 15 degrees to make it the highest point when bleeding.   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urbanengineer Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 So the process is .  Front Brake - Front Right - Front Left Rear brake - level out and Right Push up and bleed at the..... - PCV - (Fit Front Left Capliper back) - (remove wheel and rear caliper, move to 2 o'clock position) - Rear Center - Rear Outer and then the right hand side valve opposite the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faran Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Thanks for such a helpful post. Going to do it on a 5th Gen. Â Clutch and front is clear, there's just 1 bleeder on the front and 2 on the rear, nothing else. Is that right? Â I swear have seen a post by HS for doing it for 6th Gen LBS, not sure if it's same or there's a separate one for 5th Gen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.