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New Undertail Exhaust


Guest okiengr

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Guest okiengr

Having gotten some questions about the new exhaust, I thought I'd post up some pictures during the build up. What I have is a 2.5" system coupled with a Supertrapp with a 2.5" inlet. The piping is pre-cut, pre-bent madrel 304 S.S. There is (1) 90 degree bend, (1) 45 degree bend, and an expander piece that attaches to the header which expands from 2"-2.5". I mocked up the pipe, made the cuts, and tacked it all together where it needed to be. Then sent it to a guy that can TIG weld stainless and had all the joints welded up. Total cost for the undertail material, the Supertrapp, piping, and welding cost me less than $250 for everything. Not so bad considering I spent $450 for a staintune and I definitely like the look of this setup better.

Showing the expander piece.

DSC04183.jpg

The 45 bend is tacked in place.

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DSC04185.jpg

Then the 90 bend is tacked in.

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And the last 4-5" piece tacked on with the Supertrapp in place.

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After she got back from the TIG welder and partially polished. The weld haven't been ground down yet.

DSC04218.jpg

And the end result!

DSC04212.jpg

The only video I have right now is a dyno run at a rally I was at last week. This run is without the Supertrapp discs. Hopefully I'll get some more video later on.

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I love creative exhaust engineering! I recently utilized a HMF can for a 400ex for my cbr-cheap and sounds great-So does your set up!(sounds great that is)

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what were the HP and TQ numbers?

The torque numbers I wish I had. When the sign said "Horsepower Run", I thought it included torque but it didn't :biggrin: . Only horsepower. Lame.

The dyno came out with 102.3 hp. I was pretty happy with the results as the only mods I have are the K&N air filter and the exhuast. No PCIII, FPR, etc.

Before I dyno'd the bike, I didn't know if it was because I hadn't ridden the bike in a while and wasn't used to it or if it really was more powerful but the front end sure seemed lighter than it used to be. Now it pulls the front wheel at lower RPM than it used to and just seems wheelie happy in first gear. I really thought that with the bigger pipe, I'd lose hp and torque but it really seemed to do the opposite. I was originally fine with the fact that it would look better and be less powerful but I ended up with the look I wanted and equal or more power than any other of the past 3 exhaust systems I've had on it. Needless to say, I've been extremely happy with it so far. The only downfall to date is that if I run without the discs, there is a resonance in my helmet that requires me to wear ear plugs. Without the helmet, it's no problem and the noise is gone. But I don't typically ride without a helmet so ear plugs are a must if I run with no discs. With the discs in, there's no annoying resonance in the hemlet and it's generally quieter too so it can be a little more stealth in the mornings through the neighborhood.

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Any heat issues, on the arse or with the adjacent plastics? If not, I'll take one. When can you deliver? :biggrin:

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ok, the .02 cent question is where did you relocate the license plate to?

For now, I have it attached to the lower-most bolt which attaches the chain guard to the swingarm. It's attached vertically. I didn't know where else to put it besides underneath the exhaust so that's where it is for now....illegally I think :idea3:

Any heat issues, on the arse or with the adjacent plastics? If not, I'll take one. When can you deliver? :fing02:

None so far. There's no plastic near the exhaust since I did the typical 'ol remove stock plastic undertail and replace with aluminum sheet like others have done before with the Wolf setups. I did do a dual layer of aluminum under the seat so that there would be a significant drop in heat absorbtion under the seat. The top sheet will barely get warm to the touch. I also have the option of installing a CPU type fan to blow the hot air between the layers to the outside to really keep it cool. But so far, I haven't felt the need to have it.

If I had a jig of some sort to get the angles right, I WOULD build some more of these for sure! :biggrin:

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If I had a jig of some sort to get the angles right, I WOULD build some more of these for sure! :biggrin:

Well, now that you have your first good piece, making a jig would be pretty simple! :fing02:

Nice work! (It is a bit odd seeing your bike with the old timers in the background though!)

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I love home brews like this. One Q though...in the third picture, the up-pipe sure looks close to the tire. Looks like it would rub a bit when the suspension compressed. Or it is just a funky angle of the picure making the clearance look less that it is?

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That's really clean work! Takes away all hints of the Supertrapp being an "older tech" muffler.

I wouldn't have bothered with Dynoing it if I were you, I'm sure the "seat of the pants" HP sensors and "grin per mile" meter is sufficient to tell you it was worth all the hard work! :fing02:

Now if you and make one for us 4th gen owners, with two trapeziodal outlets that go through/replaces the rear turn signal pods.........I'd be first in line to buy it! :biggrin:

Beck

95 VFR

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Nice looking pipe. Please let me know if and when I can order one!! And hey, that sure doesnt look like a stock tail section either. Looks like dual rount tail lights. Cool! How did you do that, and or, where can I get one?

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The torque numbers I wish I had. When the sign said "Horsepower Run", I thought it included torque but it didn't :biggrin: . Only horsepower. Lame.

You need an RPM-pickup to get the torque curve, as the dyno just computes torque from its horsepower reading (TQ = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM). On our bikes, it's very easy to get to a plug wire & hook it up, but on other bikes it can be a pain, and I doubt they wanted to waste time hunting for a plug/coil wire when they could be making money doing more pulls.

If you know what gear he did the dyno pull in, you can compute your engine rpm working backwards from the indicated speed by figuring out tire circumference and gear ratios. Or, just realize that redline is 11,700 and scale the graph accordingly (ex. if the max speed it was taken to was 120mph @ 11700rpm, then 60mph would equal 5850rpm and so on). Once you know rpm, you can figure out torque.

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I love home brews like this. One Q though...in the third picture, the up-pipe sure looks close to the tire. Looks like it would rub a bit when the suspension compressed. Or it is just a funky angle of the picure making the clearance look less that it is?

It is pretty close but I only weight about 160 and I had a guy who was about 260 lbs hop up and down on it and it still cleared. Not a lot of clearance at full compression but there was enough. I think the picture makes it look worse to though.

Nice looking pipe. Please let me know if and when I can order one!! And hey, that sure doesnt look like a stock tail section either. Looks like dual rount tail lights. Cool! How did you do that, and or, where can I get one?

The tail light section is one that I made. Check out http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=27899 on the last couple pages. Should give you all the info you need. You can send me a message if you have more questions that aren't answered there.

The torque numbers I wish I had. When the sign said "Horsepower Run", I thought it included torque but it didn't :biggrin: . Only horsepower. Lame.

You need an RPM-pickup to get the torque curve, as the dyno just computes torque from its horsepower reading (TQ = HP x 5252 ÷ RPM). On our bikes, it's very easy to get to a plug wire & hook it up, but on other bikes it can be a pain, and I doubt they wanted to waste time hunting for a plug/coil wire when they could be making money doing more pulls.

If you know what gear he did the dyno pull in, you can compute your engine rpm working backwards from the indicated speed by figuring out tire circumference and gear ratios. Or, just realize that redline is 11,700 and scale the graph accordingly (ex. if the max speed it was taken to was 120mph @ 11700rpm, then 60mph would equal 5850rpm and so on). Once you know rpm, you can figure out torque.

Excellent piece of info Toro! I do know that he did the run in 4th gear and ran it to around 120-125ish. I don't recall exactly, but I have the sheet at home for reference. I will have to check into this now!

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i think whatever was lost in diameter of mid-pipe, was prolly re-gained in extended length.

That's what I keep telling her.

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Looking good. Glad to see intrest in underseat exhaust for 5th gens still.

Bike looks great.

vince

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Seriously.................that is perfect.

You really should consider making up a few kits and selling them.

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OK, I have to take the whole "this is equal or more powerful than previos exhausts" comment back. When I got the bike done, I only test rode it once with the disks installed (here in Wichita). The next time I rode it, I was in Destin Florida because we trailered the bikes down that way for a rally. Anyhow, I took the disks out, and went riding. That's when I noticed a big boost in performance. Then this evening, I went out to eat with a buddy and on the way home I opened it up same as I had done in Florida and expected the wheel to come up. But to my surprise, it didn't. So I rode around to do more testing and still it acted same. The power just wasn't there like it was before. No pure power throttle wheelie. After scratching my head for a bit, I figured out what was going on. It was the ELEVATION! I bought the bike in Colorado and it didn't seem to have much power when I drove it there. But when I got back to Kansas, it was way more powerful than it was in Colorado. Same thing happened when I had it in Florida and I just didn't think about that happening. So anyhow, no big improvements as previously thought. So I think I'm back to about the same as where I was at before. But it sure was fun while it lasted down there! You guys in the low elevations are lucky!

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Got any pics from the rear? Any clearance issues with the tyre (tire) ?

This is about the most rearward picture I have. Hope this helps. I don't have any clearance issues with the tire. It gets close but there's clearance. There's room to get more but it just didn't work out that way.

DSC04215.jpg

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Just to let those who are interested know, I'm looking into maybe copying the pipe. More than likely it will be either 2" or 2-1/4". I don't personally see any reason to use the 2-1/2" that I did. Most all M/C exhausts are 2" anyhow so I'd make the pipe long enough so that you could use whatever exhaust you wanted to and you could trim to match. I can't promise anything but I'm looking into it..... wink.gif

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Just to let those who are interested know, I'm looking into maybe copying the pipe. More than likely it will be either 2" or 2-1/4". I don't personally see any reason to use the 2-1/2" that I did. Most all M/C exhausts are 2" anyhow so I'd make the pipe long enough so that you could use whatever exhaust you wanted to and you could trim to match. I can't promise anything but I'm looking into it..... wink.gif

:blink:

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Just to let those who are interested know, I'm looking into maybe copying the pipe. More than likely it will be either 2" or 2-1/4". I don't personally see any reason to use the 2-1/2" that I did. Most all M/C exhausts are 2" anyhow so I'd make the pipe long enough so that you could use whatever exhaust you wanted to and you could trim to match. I can't promise anything but I'm looking into it..... wink.gif

:blink: :blush:

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