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Custom Led Lights . . .


N8sVFR

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To start off, I wanted to share with you all my experiences since purchasing my full set of OEM luggage for my 6th gen last year from David Silver Spares. First off, those gents are top notch!! I ordered the full set of OEM hard cases to match my '02 Red VFR, the Honda liner bags, the Honda tank pad, the accessory pillion pad, as well as a couple of other little items. Everything arrived within about two weeks, and was in perfect condition. Plus, for all of that I think I paid around $1200. Couldn't beat it!!

So, of course, the next step was getting everything installed on the bike. I put everything on and rode for about two weeks, and was loving it. I realized that I had used the wrong spacers under the grab handle mounts for the side cases, and took everything apart, installed the new spacers, and promptly stripped out the threads when re-installing the bolts. After the purchase of a new tap and die set, all was well with the world again. But, I kept being nagged by this recurring thought. . . .it sure would be nice to have lights under those reflectors in the top case!! And the search was on.

After a couple of weeks of looking at the GIVI website at their lighting kit for the E460 (GIVI E460 Lighting kit) (which our factory luggage is supposedly fashioned after), as well as looking at the kits available from admorelighting.com for the E460 cases (Admorelighting E460 Kit), I realized that nothing that was commercially available was guaranteed to work. The GIVI kit will not work with our factory top cases, and the admorelighting.com kit only placed LED's in the wrap-around reflecters, and was questionable as far as fitment goes, at best.

So, I decided to fabricate my own LED brake and turn signals to be installed behind each of the top and wrap around reflectors in the OEM top case. All of my research pointed towards LED's from superbrightleds.com (LED light strips). I figured that I would need five so I ordered 6 of the WFLS-R30 strips, for good measure. Each waterproof strip has 30 high-intensity red LED's and costs $13.95. You can cut the strips into segments of 3 LED's each (you'll see why this is important soon).

Shortly after receiving the strips, I took apart the top case and started attaching the strips to the white pieces of thick paper behind the wrap-around reflectors and the thin plastic piece behind the center reflector.

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As you can see, my first take on the arrangements of the LED's behind the center reflector was too sparse. When lit, they just didn't have the punch that I was looking for.

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I also found that there was not enough room for the LED's behind the wrap-around reflectors. I used a 1" chisel to remove the small (about 1/32" thick) ribs that are behind the wrap around reflectors. This gave me just enough clearance for everything to fit snugly when the reflector and LED's were reinstalled. It took about an hour to get all of the ribs removed, but it was worth it. See below for how the top case looked after the rib removal.

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A small hole (about 1/4" dia) needed to be drilled behind each of the wrap-around lights to allow the wiring the enter the case. This was one of my basic criteria - I wanted all of the wiring inside the case, to a single point that could be easily removed. I also drilled two small grooves on either side of the main holes to allow the tail of the LED strip room to turn into the case.

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Another 1/4" dia hole was required to allow the wiring from the center LED to enter the case.

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Here you can see what the LED banks ended up looking like. There was a fair amount of soldering involved for the center LED but the wrap-arounds were fairly straightforward. I also found that I had to cut relief slots into the plastic backer for the center LED in order to allow the whole assembly to settle down over the ribs that are formed into the top case behind the lens. If anyone is wondering, I used 18 ga stranded wire that I bought from Radio Shack.

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Since I wanted the entire assembly to be waterproof, I used clear silicone to cover the solder joints. The silicone I used was a GE product that you can pick up at any home improvement warehouse.

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After getting all of the LED banks installed back into the OEM top case, I used more of the same silicone to seal the holes that I drilled to allow the wiring to enter the case. I wanted to be able to remove the LED's if necessary, so the silicone can be cut out and replaced in the future if removing the LED's becomes necesary.

It was also time to create the wiring harness. One of the challenges that I faced was finding the right connectors for my specific application. I stumbled on the web site for Binder USA (Binder USA), which is a subsidiary of a German electrical component manufacturer. They had a lot of choices, and at the end of the day I purchased multiple snap-together sub-miniature waterproof connectors (series 620), a cordset with a metal waterproof connector (series 702), as well as surface mounted connector to be installed in the trunk (from series 712). I learned a lot about 'IP' ratings during my search and chose to go with minimum IP-67 since the connectors would potentially be exposed to wind-driven water if I happen to encounter a rain storm on any of my travels.

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After all of the fun bits arrived, I started assembling everything. First the surface mounted connector to the trunk.

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I used insulated bullet disconnects to allow the harness in the trunk to be separated from the wiring to each LED bank. All of the positive signals to each bank remain separate and the grounds all come together to a common ground. I used self-adhesive zip-tie mounts to attach the harness to the bottom of the OEM case underneath the stock foam rubber liner pad. I had to cut the pad to allow it to sit flat over the installed harness.

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At this point, the trunk was essentially complete, and the controllers for the LED's remained. I chose to use the diode and resistor method for sending both a lower voltage parking signal and a turn signal to each of the wrap-around LEDs. I picked up the parking light signal from the front turn signal wires just behind the blue connector over the left radiator in the main wiring harness. I ran two new wires back to the tail end of the bike where all of the other wires taped into the existing signal wires for the brake, right and left turn signals, and ground wire. Below are pictures of the development of the controllers and the soldering of the connectors.

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I'll finish the story tomorrow - it's getting late, and I just finished everything up today. Photos of the final installed lights and wiring have been taken and I'll post them up soon.

Edited by N8sVFR
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Very professional. Can't wait to see the finished goods. NICE work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Very nice job, and thanks for the info on the connector (Binder USA). I have a GIVI top-box and installed their LED light kit. Yours will be immensely better from the brightness standpoint, I'm sure. Reason I'm thankful for the connector info - I broke my connector that came with the Givi kit after smacking it with my foot when getting off the bike. Givi wire routing is not exactly out of the way, another advantage you have in your design. Looking forward to "seeing the light" +1.gif when you are done....

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I know I promised an update today, but the weather was far too nice to be sitting at the computer!! Went for a ride today instead. I'll follow-up with the finished pics soon, and some additional information. Today was the first outing, and it worked like a charm!!

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Alright. . . .here are some of the final pics, with the lights functioning at night.

First, the running lights:

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Left turn signal:

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And brake light lit up:

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I decided to disconnect the running light to the center LED since I wanted more of an impact when I hit the brakes - kind of the way that a center brake light works on a car. Hopefully, it will have the intended effect.

Here's a shot of the controller wiring. The disconnected wire is the running light for the center LED:

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And the controller nicely tucked away where it will live:

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And a shot of the connecting wire from the bike to the OEM top case:

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One of the other things that I did while the bike was apart was to replace the LED's in the gauge cluster. Red for the LCD's and white for the tach. I spent about 25 bucks on the LED's. It was a little scary taking the gauge cluster apart and soldering on the circuit board, but all turned out well!!

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I know that I gave a bit of cost information in my first post. All told, this was not a cheap project, but I wanted to do it right, and I wanted something that would last. I estimate that I ended up spending about $200 total, but I think that the added visibility will be well worth the cost.

Hope you guys enjoy!! I will also take a few more photos of the LED's in the daylight just to give you all an idea of how the case looks.

Cheers!!!

Edited by N8sVFR
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Thanks bayarearider. I have the headlight high-beam mod on my list too. I just need to pick up the relays . . . .

I also want to change the front turn signals and the rear combination lens to the later model clear lenses. One project at a time I suppose!

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Very nice! One thing I would change if I was you.. The way you have the bike wired to the case before you forget to unplug the case when you remove the case from the bike. I would try to use some thing more like the way Givi wires bike to case with these that allows easy removal that you don't have to remember to unplug the wires.

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2031/169/

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/3674/169/

Ya I know these only have two wires and you need more then two wires. Ya could use two of each or look for one that has four wire connections.

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Joe - Yea, I had considered the GIVI connection technique, but determined that the manufacturing of the Honda OEM rack and top case were not really suited for that application. There is not a pre-formed 'knock-out' in the case or in the rack that allows for easy installation, unlike the GIVI cases and racks. Plus, for me, I rarely remove my top case. I guess if I do forget to disconnect the cable, I won't get too far!! I intentionally have the cable fairly tight for just that reason.

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Great mod. Thanks for the very clear & detailed write up, should be copied to the VFRD Wiki :fing02:

I chose to use the diode and resistor method for sending both a lower voltage parking signal and a turn signal to each of the wrap-around LEDs.

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Too bad the camera does not capture the wrap around LEDs working in sync with the signal light very well, but it must look real cool when seen by the human eye. :beer: Maybe add a small vid?

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Ok, good idea about the vids. I took a couple videos, but how do I add them to the post? Can I host them on VFRD or do they need to have another home. . . .as soon as you guys help me figure out this part, they will get added to the topic!! :laugh:

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Ok, good idea about the vids. I took a couple videos, but how do I add them to the post? Can I host them on VFRD or do they need to have another home. . . .as soon as you guys help me figure out this part, they will get added to the topic!! :laugh:

Apple or Windows?

Host on putfile is good, then just link.

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Essentially, yes. The LED's and the incandescent bulbs receive the signal at the same time, from the same source, but what you are seeing is that the LED's essentially come on immediately. Incandescent bulbs have to heat up the filament before reaching full brightness, which takes a few milliseconds -- long enough for the human eye to tell a difference beweeen the two. When I get around to changing out the rear combination lens to the clear from the '06 and later models, I intend to change to LED bulbs there as well (brakes and turn signals).

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Excellent job, and video 1 clearly demonstrates the safety aspect of LED brakelights - a following driver/rider has that much more time to react as the LEDs come on instantly.

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