Pro-oiler Install "how To", Vtec Vfr

[Normand]

Now everytime i power on i get an CF ERR message on the display

That indicates the PO doesn't have a setting for the correction fator. If you haven't programmed the value into the system than start there.

Thanks, i did as you mentionned and gladly it started to work perfectly

Thanks

boy do i love VFRD :biggrin:

[Normand]

Now everytime i power on i get an CF ERR message on the display

That indicates the PO doesn't have a setting for the correction fator. If you haven't programmed the value into the system than start there.

Thanks, i did as you mentionned and gladly it started to work perfectly

Thanks

boy do i love VFRD :angry:

Having said what above, i went for a ride and took a look at the display, E7 is displayd, as per the manual, this is an emergency setting. Did not find in the manual how to have a regular setting or how to get out of it.

I do know that my english is not perfect (being french from Quebec) but i must be missing something.

Any idea's !

[V4 Rosso]

If the PO goes into emergency mode is doesn't get a (correct) speed signal and a pump stroke will occur every 90 seconds (E7). Have you checked EMI?

In the download section on the PO website you can download the French manuals, that might help to better understand how you can troubleshoot your installation.

[Normand]

If the PO goes into emergency mode is doesn't get a (correct) speed signal and a pump stroke will occur every 90 seconds (E7). Have you checked EMI?

In the download section on the PO website you can download the French manuals, that might help to better understand how you can troubleshoot your installation.

I have check all of my connections, re-read the manual, and found what i was looking for.

It is stated that you can go from emergency to calibration mode by pressing the - for 5 seconds. Works great now.

I tought i had a bad speedo sensor signal, but the manual states that if you have a dot that remains light up ex ( E7.) then you have a problem.

On mine i had ( E7 ) notice that there is no dot so my signal is fine.

Did the EMI check and it is perfect

I press and hold the - button for 5 seconds and the display changed from E7 to 3, perfect.

Thanks

[Tightwad]

Got mine installed tonight....took awhile since I hadn't done it before. You would be hard pressed to know it was on there, other than the actual nozzle. I hid the oil line pretty good by running it under the brake hoses and down the inside of the chain guard (used a couple zip ties to secure it from the inside).

Thanks Rad for the tutorial!

[Q-Dawg]

Just got my PO installed last night in preparation for the Summit meet in CO.

Followed this guide and the PO instructions and got everything working OK in the end.

Great write-up

Just wanted to add a couple things:

-You can tap the PINK speed wire from the large grey connector (near the blue one under left front fairing). It is third position on connector, next to a yellow wire with green stripe. I tapped mine here for my Audiovox CCS-100 cruise install and killed two birds with one stone. In retrospect, there was VERY little room to work here to do the soldered heatshrunk tubing connections that I do for everything. I think I would rather use the POSI-Tap here or else use lower connection if doing soldered connections. But for the Posi-tap, the upper mounting location is probably better protected.

-I found the directions on saving the correction factor a tad confusing and it was easy for me to miss the extra step to save the value. Go to oA, press (-) to get it to display SA, then press AGAIN to get it so show the ST. It has only saved the values after it shows ST. If I read the PO instructions a little closer, I would not have missed this. It is only briefly mentioned once, though. If you keep getting "CF Err" after you think you have stored the CF, then try this.

-I routed my tubing slightly different as well. I used a small bolt-on metal wire loom clip to hold the tubing right to swing arm next to the chain guide on the top of swing arm. Then zip tied once to brake lines. Then added a protective sleeve over the tubing and ran it through on left side of the seat's key release, behind battery, and up to same location for components as shown in guide. I found that the tubing stuck up a little too much on mine, so I mounted the oil bottle at an angle so the lines would not get pinched when seat pushes down on everything. Used a couple old plastic bags to stuff around the bottle to hold it tightly into position. Low tech, but it works.

-If I re-did this install, I would extend the oil pumps wires by about 6" to give more options on mounting location and make it easier to move things around when positioning the components in the tail section. I found things a tad tight to work with.

-Mounted my controller using a simple piece of aluminum bracket I fabricated from scraps at work. Bracket hold the controller above the left grip, and is secured by the same two bolts that hold the handle bar lever assembly to the bar end. Audiovox CCS-100 control mounted below this.

Thanks for the awesome write-up!

[elizilla]

I've got about 5000 miles on mine now. I started out with the controller mounted up front in the fairing, but oil was going all over my tire. I suspected this was EMI, so I redid the EMI tests, and discovered that it was indeed still getting EMI at certain times, though not continuously. I eventually gave up on any mounting locations in the front of the bike, because none of them were completely EMI free. I moved the controller box to a spot on the outside of the tail, where it is protected and partially hidden by the Givi Wingrack. Since then, I have been 100% free of EMI.

However, oil continues to get flung in too high of quantity, and it ends up on the edge of my tire. I've dialed it down to 1, but I think I'm going to actually go back into the programming and switch it to one of the columns that puts out even less oil. I may also look into some chainguard mods - I think if my chain guard was an inch or two longer at the back, it might help with this issue.

I like the maintenance free aspect; the chain has stayed well lubed, and I've done absolutely no fiddling except when I've been doing regular oil changes. If I can just clear up the pesky oil-on-tire issue, I think I will be happy with the Pro-Oiler.

The other two oilers put more oil on my garage floor, and are requiring more fiddling, but neither has oiled the tire. I'm not considering any of them out of the running just yet!

[spud786]

I'm glad many of you are trying the oilers. Nice write up from the start

You'll nerver see the red dust , cause when it blows out, your oil will blow in . This should be where the seperation of chain life begins with the oilers.

There's no way to prevent the drying of the internal grease, its going to powderize from heat and condensation, but once it does and you get alittle pin wear and the orings start breaking their seal, the oil of chain oiler should get in.

The big test would be someone who dramatically increases their normal chain life on the same chain. But I dont mean someone who normally allows a chain to rust or neglects, then going to an oiler. That would be useless info.

But somebody that typically does 3 adjustments in 10 to 18,000 mile and sees redust and kinking and uses strengent chain maintenance, if they can go 30,000 mile on the chain without any further adjustment need that would be significant.

[Gregg]

I've got about 5000 miles on mine now. I started out with the controller mounted up front in the fairing, but oil was going all over my tire. I suspected this was EMI, so I redid the EMI tests, and discovered that it was indeed still getting EMI at certain times, though not continuously. I eventually gave up on any mounting locations in the front of the bike, because none of them were completely EMI free. I moved the controller box to a spot on the outside of the tail, where it is protected and partially hidden by the Givi Wingrack. Since then, I have been 100% free of EMI.

However, oil continues to get flung in too high of quantity, and it ends up on the edge of my tire. I've dialed it down to 1, but I think I'm going to actually go back into the programming and switch it to one of the columns that puts out even less oil. I may also look into some chainguard mods - I think if my chain guard was an inch or two longer at the back, it might help with this issue.

I like the maintenance free aspect; the chain has stayed well lubed, and I've done absolutely no fiddling except when I've been doing regular oil changes. If I can just clear up the pesky oil-on-tire issue, I think I will be happy with the Pro-Oiler.

The other two oilers put more oil on my garage floor, and are requiring more fiddling, but neither has oiled the tire. I'm not considering any of them out of the running just yet!

I am in the same situation....I love my Pro-Oiler, and while not getting any EMI, and I getting some oil on the tire and have it dialed down to 1. I have been meaning to program it back on table but have not gotten around to it.

[Tightwad]

Took my first ride with mine today (driving to work). I cleaned by sprocket, but the chain hadn't been touched since new, when i changed it a few months ago. The chain is still pretty dirty...10 miles doesn't give it much chance, but I can see the sprocket teeth are "wet" looking, so I assume the oil quantity is about right.

Controller mounting:

Wire/Line Routing:

Bottle/pump mounting

You can see here where my oil line goes into the chainguard:

Zip Tied to Chain Guard:

[Guest rad]

I really like how you ran the oil line, well done..... :biggrin:

You can see here where my oil line goes into the chainguard:

Zip Tied to Chain Guard:

[hondalover]

I really like how you ran the oil line, well done..... :biggrin:

You can see here where my oil line goes into the chainguard:

Zip Tied to Chain Guard:

That's the way I routed my line as-well. There is a groove in the Rivcyko hugger that just begs for a line to be run down the inside of it. :huh:

[elizilla]

This week I did my end of summer update to my chain oiler blog.

Oil continues to end up on my rear tire. Here's the photo I used in the blog:

This is what my tire looks like, 700 miles after I last cleaned the oil off it (with brake cleaner). I have not had a problem with oil on the tire on the TDM, even though the ScottOiler I installed on that bike has been dispensing about four times as much oil per mile. I think there's something about the shape of the VFR, or the way the wind blows around its rear wheel, that allows the oil to fling onto the tire. Some chainguard mods might help. Like if it were a little longer at the back.

Has anyone else found oil flinging onto their tire, and solved this problem? If so, how?

Thanks!

[V4 Rosso]

Has anyone else found oil flinging onto their tire, and solved this problem? If so, how?

Yes, on a friends VTEC, but that was because the oil feed line had seperated from the nozzle. After that was fixed and the PO set to run a little leaner there was no fling off getting on the tire profile. There is some on the sidewall, on mine too.

Table 21 is very lean, are you sure you have no EMI? I think there is pulse count mode so you can compare the number of pulses against distance travelled. If your setup still suffers from EMI maybe you could replace the pick-up with some caoxial cable.

[elizilla]

Has anyone else found oil flinging onto their tire, and solved this problem? If so, how?

Yes, on a friends VTEC, but that was because the oil feed line had seperated from the nozzle. After that was fixed and the PO set to run a little leaner there was no fling off getting on the tire profile. There is some on the sidewall, on mine too.

Table 21 is very lean, are you sure you have no EMI? I think there is pulse count mode so you can compare the number of pulses against distance travelled. If your setup still suffers from EMI maybe you could replace the pick-up with some caoxial cable.

The EMI coming off the coils was so bad that I eventually gave up on running the controller anywhere in the front end of the bike. I relocated it to a spot on the tail, where it is protected by the support arm for my three case Givi rack. Once I moved it I had no EMI in any of the tests. I think that part is OK. Also, I have used less than half a quart of oil, in 6000 miles. So it's not like it's pumping vast amounts of oil.

It is supposed to fling a little bit - that's the whole point, that's what keeps the chain clean. But the flung oil is supposed to drop onto the road, or into the chain guard or something. It's not supposed to be channeled to the tire. I think it's something about the way the air circulates around the rear of the bike.

[Q-Dawg]

Funny how you were getting so much EMI on your install. I had no issues at all, and mounted controller on left grip.

Just wanted to add some observations about this system as I learned from my trip down to the Summit meet and back.

*** IF YOU ADJUST CHAIN TENSION, DO NOT FORGET TO RE-ADJUST THE PRO-OILER NOZZLE ***

I adjusted my chain tension and forgot to adjust the Pro-Oiler. Ended up with oil flinging everywhere because the sprocket and nozzle became separated, so wind was catching oil and blowing it everywhere. Also, the teeth from the rear sprocket ended up catching on the nozzle and chewed it up pretty bad. Will have to order another nozzle soon.

I found the preset table to be a bit rich for the VFR but it is not a bad starting point. I understand that there will ALWAYS be some fling-off; after all that is how the system is designed to operate. So if you want totally clean rear tire and wheel, then revert back to periodic cleaning and lubing of chain. Otherwise, it is just something you will have to live with.

All in all, not a bad set-up.

Looking forward to 7th gen VFR coming out. I hope to scoop one after a few years and price comes down (I don't ride enough to justify a new one and I don't like first year models) and look forward to no chain maintenance. The ultimate solution to chain maintenance after all is to not have one!

[V4 Rosso]

It is supposed to fling a little bit - that's the whole point,

I know and I notice some fling off getting on the sidewall of the tire too, but never on the tire profile.

Maybe something like this will solve that.

[Guest rad]

I found the preset table to be a bit rich for the VFR but it is not a bad starting point.

Same here, at least in hot weather. I found long high speed highway runs in warm weather gave me a lot of fling and a chain that was way to wet. I run on "1" now for warm weather and it is great. The weather has turned cool as fall has kicked in so I have bumped it back up to "2". I love how changing it is just a push of a button on the dash!

Edited October 5, 2009 by rad

[Guest rad]

Has anyone else found oil flinging onto their tire, and solved this problem? If so, how?

Thanks!

Looks like you need to dial it down. Wipe everything down, including your chain, dial down the delivery, check the wheel and tire in a couple hundred miles and don't forget to do the finger test on the chain. If your wheel and tire look pretty good and you still get a nice dual oil stripe on your finger when you run it over your (non-running :laugh:) chain, it is set about right.

[spud786]

I've been following this thread, and I dont know if anyone is gaining chain life , But I definitely see alot of time , frustration and money including cleaning of the garage floor.

When all is said and done, get the real thing , and easily cleanable and workable with wd

MOTOREX 622 STRONG STREET GREEN CAN

not avaliable in California due to emmisons standards

available at cycle gear , holds up signifcantly better than anything on the market and stays fluid , never seizies up like waxes.

I've ran alot of crap on the street and ever since trying this, Never have I (EVER)wanted to switch , its a completely different platform, than the various available crap for the road.

[V4 Rosso]

I've been following this thread, and I dont know if anyone is gaining chain life , But I definitely see alot of time , frustration and money

That maybe true for the first few weeks finding the right setup. After a year or two it has paid for itself, saved you a lot of time not having to do chain maniteance and no more worrying if your chain will last till the end of your journey.

[Tightwad]

I've been following this thread, and I dont know if anyone is gaining chain life , But I definitely see alot of time , frustration and money

That maybe true for the first few weeks finding the right setup. After a year or two it has paid for itself, saved you a lot of time not having to do chain maniteance and no more worrying if your chain will last till the end of your journey.

I have had zero issues with mine, and never a spot on the garage floor (not that I care, it's a garage not my kitchen). I do notice the plastic piece below the swingarm has a nice coating, and the rim/sidewall has some streaks. I have gone close to 4K miles with it, and haven't touched the chain.

[swimmer]

I think I'll write Pablo a note telling him how many people are finding the pre-set or suggested flow schedule to be too rich. After moving my pro-oiler from my 650R (where I had zero chain adjustments or cleaning in 14k miles) I found the suggested setting too rich for my VFR. Currently I am using 20/3 setting and that may be a little lean for commuting. NFW will I ever go back to the clean/lube routine pre pro-oiler.

[spud786]

I think I'll write Pablo a note telling him how many people are finding the pre-set or suggested flow schedule to be too rich. After moving my pro-oiler from my 650R (where I had zero chain adjustments or cleaning in 14k miles) I found the suggested setting too rich for my VFR. Currently I am using 20/3 setting and that may be a little lean for commuting. NFW will I ever go back to the clean/lube routine pre pro-oiler.

Who has seen big life chain life improvement?

Swimmers 14,000 mile on a Honda 650 R offroad bike , which i assume was dual sported . no ajustment till 14,000 mile. Thats very good.

I pulled an RK chain on a dual sport, that was lubed with triflow type lubes (kronicly ) throught chains life that probably had 5 adjustments and at 14,000 it was kinking pretty bad. (but that was extreme maintenance)

Other chains(like 3 of them) on that bike lasted around 10,000 mile avergage with same type lubes.

I switched to Regina chain and the Motorex at same time and I too went 14,000 on the chain, till need adjustment. Chain or Lube?

That was a major difference of improvment though, and huge improvement on cs sprocket wear, definitely from the LUBE

any body seeing that on the vfr, like youve gone from 15,000mile to 30,000 just because of the luber

Ofcourse, somebody that took the time to care for the chain, there's never any reason to be riding around on heavily rusted chain like I've seen in some pics. That rider no doubt would see alot more improvement with a luber.

But somebody that has engaged in keeping the chain in good shape that went to a luber and saw big life gain?

[V4 Rosso]

When I had the chain on it for 20k kms Keny thought it was a bit to tight and we added some more slack to it. Now the chain is at 55k kms (34K mls) and it never needed adjustment or cleaning, stretch is less than 0.5%. I did replace the front sprocket 7K kms ago.