Pro-oiler Install "how To", Vtec Vfr

[Guest rad]

Why an oiler ?

I have heard the debate for years, O-ring chains are lubricated, no need to lube/oil, etc. I have also heard the folks rave about great chain life with oilers. So, what's the truth? Best I find out for myself. Along with the curiosity was the desire to mess with my chain less; So, why not try an oiler?

What this thread is

It is a pictorial "how to" regarding the Pro-Oiler. It is not intended to be a debate on the merits, or lack there of regarding automated oilers. Yes I know, I'm sure someone on this site has done nothing more than urinated on their chain every 1,000 and the chain has lasted a billion miles, I don't care. This is about finding out for myself.

Which oiler?

If you're after the oiler that does it all, I think there is only one real choice, Pro-oiler. It can use any oil, ya don't need to change weight of oil for temperature changes, no oil feed when the bike is not moving, dual delivery nozzle, no bizarre filling rituals, just unscrew the cap and pour in the oil and it is fully adjustable on the fly to deal with rain etc. Down side of this oiler; it cost more and the install is more complicated.

Getting the beast

Not as easy as you might think; no place sells them other than the manufacture in Belgium. Worse yet, a couple of major email hosting programs, (such as mine, sbcglobal.net) are read as spam by the servers at the Pro-oiler office so it takes a bit of effort to get through. I almost gave up, then I heard that Pablo, the main guy, is very helpful and I should email again. Well, I did at 6:30am before work and at 6:35am my phone rings, I answer and the guy on the other side, with an accent says, "Hello, this is Pablo for Belgium". Folks were right; what a great guy, he took my order, CC info and in about a week a box arrives at my house from Belgium.

Pro-Oiler

A plus for Vtec owners

Supposedly the pro-oiler was developed with the vtec VFR as a prototype model so it fits our bikes perfectly. Another nice touch, when you specify what bike you have any special parts are supplied, big plus here, the controller already has the proper recommended map for the Vtec programmed in!.

Lets get started

Disclaimer:

Everything you do to your bike, no matter what I write or anybody else states anyplace else is 100% your responsibility, just like when you climb on your bike and go for a ride. So, read everything here, the manual, and make your determination if it makes sense and how you want to proceed.

Ambiance

When I did my last wrenching "how to", for the manly job of CCT replacement, where you are covered in M/C fluids, knuckles bled and you use studly tools like torque wrenches, it was important to use the proper wrenching aids; this consisted of quality beer and rock'n music like Reckless Kelly performing Wicked Twisted Road.

This job is far different. The tools used here are things like tiny little screwdrivers along with lots of cerebral stuff dealing with matrixes and complicated tables. About as mechanical as you get, is stripping tiny little girly wires. This kind of job can be performed by a man who never had to face the difficult challenge in his youth of figuring out which end went up, large or small, when trying to put on his first athletic cup and supporter.

Therefore, sophisticated music like a good Jazz, and a fine cabernet wine is called for.

The package

Inside

Holy cow! I have never received a better boxed, better packaged product, and more massive three booklet set of instructions! This is surely a techno geeks dream system, sadly, that is not me. Fear not, I choose to actually read the directions completely prior to even opening the first of the bubble wrapped, zip loc bag contained goodies. Usually the directions for a product get looked at by me only after one of two things happens, I have extra parts left over or I get stumped along the way.

Another comment about the directions, they are funny, check out this warning in red:

"EMI is not common- but don't even THINK about skipping this test" (more on this test later)

Or this comment following another warning, "This is a genuine warning-not of the "do not dry your dog in the microwave" type!"

After reading the copious amounts of paper work the first task is to do a dry run, test fit all the parts for there is limited room on a VFR.

Lots of "limited" space to pick from an a VFR

The parts: controller, pump, brain, reservoir and nozzle.

I selected the left hand side under the seat, where the tool bag sits to locate the three main parts, brain, pump and reservoir. That still left me room under the seat for the stock tool bag, chain adjustment wrench extension, duct tape, elec tape, latex gloves, three CO2 cartridges and my complete string patch kit and pressure gauge.

This is a test fit photo, in the final install the reservoir is rotated 180 degrees to allow for the oil flow line to curve back to the pump that is adjacent to the reservoir

I placed the controller up on the dash.

The nozzle, well it only goes one place; there is no drilling for the nozzle, it just attaches to the existing chain guard bolt.

Find your elec power, no secrets here. It must be a switched lead, I used the tail light.

They recommend not running the earth back to the negative battery terminal so I grounded it here.

Speedo wire location. The yellow wire leads from the tap inside the clear boot and runs back to the junction box under the seat. The wire tapped inside the boot (can't see in photo) is the pink one.

I routed the controller harness back along the upper frame rail to the junction box. It is a very clean and tidy fused system as you can see here. I set the reservoir, the line continuing towards the rear of the bike, the breather that must end higher than the bottle and it does so nicely as it runs up the tail.

Control box, with top off

Over flow tube heading back and up under tail

The feed line makes a graceful curve around and under the frame rail behind it and meets the pump. The line exits the pump and runs down the frame to just above the swing arm and I created a gentle curve in it to allow for swing arm movement and zip tied it along the top of the chain guard and dropped it down to the nozzle.

Feed line routing

Under frame view, with loop for swing arm movement

Couple more shots

Line now primed and full of oil

After it was all put together and I checked for power, speedo signal and EMI, that is a process where they have you start he bike and blip the throttle and you check to make sure no unwanted signal is being transferred to the controller via Electrical Magnetic Interference. The only signal it should get is from the speedo sensor.

After that is a process of following the direction specifically in order to calibrate the speedo reading and set it up for your bike, priming the unit and then going for a ride.

Road test

Once set up the unit is a no mess with type of application. I cleaned my chain completely (I thought) prior to the install as the directions state and was surprised just how much gunk kept appearing on the outer edge of the links in the first few hundred miles as the oil flow lubed and cleaned the chain. Due to it taking awhile for the built up crud to leave the chain, it was not until a couple hundred miles later I could tell that the preset and changeable settings for the VFR, 10 point movable on the fly adjustments, were right on for the VFR. I run on setting 3, as recommended; it is perfect, good oil delivery and minimal fling.

Quick, 500 mile review

So far I'm very happy with it. I believe chain life is more dependent on keeping a chain clean, crud and grit free, more than anything else. The Pro-Oiler does this incredibly well without you ever having to touch the chain. This is accomplished because the system, like all oilers, is a total loss system; this means every drop of oil placed on the chain leaves that chain at some point, taking with it any dirt and crud. It does not matter what type of paste, wax or oil you use on a chain, if it stays on the chain and does not leave, it collects its share of road grit, oilers do not.

I can already tell, this winter, rain or shine, I no longer will be cleaning a chain on my VFR!

Future plans: I think I will route the visible white/transparent delivery tube inside a black slightly larger tube making it completely unnoticeable along with changing the Speedo wire to a black for the same purpose, vanity.

Now, I wait and see, will chain life improve? Time, or miles I should say, will tell.

[jasonsmith]

I certainly like the idea of never touching my chain again, not may fav job. Have you noticed that once you have found a setting that works your staying on that setting? I guess I'm wondering if the controller needs to be up front. Thank you and please keep us informed.

[V4 Rosso]

Great pictorial :goofy:

It is a pictorial “how to” regarding the Pro-Oiler. It is not intended to be a debate on the merits, or lack there of regarding automated oilers.

....

So far I’m very happy with it. I believe chain life is more dependent on keeping a chain clean, crud and grit free, more than anything else.

:huh: Keep the O/W/X/Z rings clean & lubed so it can keep the grease inside the chain longer.

Future plans: I think I will route the visible white/transparent delivery tube inside a black slightly larger tube making it completely unnoticeable

Because it is such a carefree setup you will likely forget to top up the oil container at least once. The tube being transparent enables you to notice the air bubbles in the system as a reminder. Maybe add some soot or graphite to the oil to get a darker color, but first ask Pablo if this may in some way be harmfull to the pump.

Have you noticed that once you have found a setting that works your staying on that setting? I guess I'm wondering if the controller needs to be up front.

I only temporarily change the setting when it is raining or riding on a dirt road.

[Normand]

Hello,

I just got myself a Pro-oiler and will follow your installation instruction. Very well done btw.

Q. wich oil do you put in the container and why.

Thanks

[mechdziner714]

The Euros are so damn paranoid about EMI I'm surprised they arent required to wear tinfoil hats.

Great write up BTW, although I prefer AC/DC and beer w/ my wrenching.

[V4 Rosso]

The Euros are so damn paranoid about EMI I'm surprised they arent required to wear tinfoil hats.

Like Rad describes in this howto, you have to check whether the PO controller does not get EMI from the bike's electronics as that will screw up the oil delivery. We are ourselves almost immune to EMI as we eat a lot of healthy iron rich food that makes your body almost into a faraday cage :fing02:

Tinfoil hats are a thing of the past:

Then => now

[Guest rad]

The Euros are so damn paranoid about EMI I'm surprised they arent required to wear tinfoil hats.

Like Rad describes in this howto, you have to check whether the PO controller does not get EMI from the bike's electronics as that will screw up the oil delivery. We are ourselves almost immune to EMI as we eat a lot of healthy iron rich food that makes your body almost into a faraday cage :biggrin:

Tinfoil hats are a thing of the past:

Then => now

:laugh:

On a more serious note regarding the question asked a couple of posts back about which oil and why! Yikes an oil thread....RUN :blink:

The directions/FAQ's, you can down load from the Pro-Oiler site, speaks well to this. Bottom line, any oil works, thinner is better.

[Guest afterburn]

The Euros are so damn paranoid about EMI I'm surprised they arent required to wear tinfoil hats.

Great write up BTW, although I prefer AC/DC and beer w/ my wrenching.

Nothing to do with being paranoid. Having done hundreds of installations on different bikes for PO I can tell you that EMI is not a major concern, but it can in certain cases royaly screw up the sensor wire which will make a big mess in oil delivery. Hence the check.

As for what oil, the easiest is to use whatever you put in your engine, as you are likely to have little leftovers after each service. But really, you can use the cheapest motor oil you can find.

DO NOT under any circumstance try to be smart and use stuff like chainsaw oil. It can destroy your pump and the tackiness negates the purpose of having the system. If it doesn't fling off, it's grinding. Use regular motor oil only.

[magicman]

Christmas list!

Nice write up. :fing02:

[RustyA]

:fing02: Wish list! It's going to have to wait. My christmas list is busted BIG time! LOL

Edited November 24, 2008 by RustyA

[magicman]

Wish list! It's going to have to wait. My christmas list is busted BIG time! LOL

LOL

That's what I meant too... :fing02:

[KevCarver]

Great pictorial :fing02:

Future plans: I think I will route the visible white/transparent delivery tube inside a black slightly larger tube making it completely unnoticeable

Because it is such a carefree setup you will likely forget to top up the oil container at least once. The tube being transparent enables you to notice the air bubbles in the system as a reminder. Maybe add some soot or graphite to the oil to get a darker color, but first ask Pablo if this may in some way be harmfull to the pump.

You could use an oil like Royal Purple or Silkolene if visibility is your goal. Not intended to be an endorsement of any one brand of oil, I'm only saying that those two oils have very dark visible color. Purple and Red, respectively.

[spotthedogg]

Isn't this a messy set up?

[kaldek]

What about the ScottOiler? This seems very complex compared to their own solution, and it's been around for years!

[Guest rad]

What about the ScottOiler? This seems very complex compared to their own solution, and it's been around for years!

I have never owned one; this is what my research told me about them.

ScottOiler; runs on the bike vacuum, it drips oil when the engine is running, even when stopped, no way to adjust on the fly, must change weights of oil for higher temps, not easy to re-fill.

[mznyc]

I have the best automatic oiler, minimum maintenance system on my ST,...It's called a SHAFT! :blink: If you keep the bike for 100K all you will do is change the fluid once at 60K!

Nice write-up though if we have to live in the dark age of motorcycle technology this seems like a good solution :beer:

[Smitty]

There is another option for auto-oilers - The Cameleon Chain Oiler. I installed it on my '99VFR and it works great! Very easy to install, it took me about an hour, but half that time was spent trying to decide where to put it. The oil only comes out when the bike is running. Its great for long rides, etc., once it's installed no need to worry about lubing chain/sprockets.

You can read my installation and review here:

Cameleon Chain Oiler

I was so impressed, I'm now selling them. I'm offering $20.00 off the reg price of $199.95

Edited November 25, 2008 by Smitty

[Guest]

Quick, 500 mile review

So far I'm very happy with it. I believe chain life is more dependent on keeping a chain clean, crud and grit free, more than anything else. The Pro-Oiler does this incredibly well without you ever having to touch the chain. This is accomplished because the system, like all oilers, is a total loss system; this means every drop of oil placed on the chain leaves that chain at some point, taking with it any dirt and crud. It does not matter what type of paste, wax or oil you use on a chain, if it stays on the chain and does not leave, it collects its share of road grit, oilers do not.

The chain is clean of gunk, fine. Does that mean it all ends up on the rear wheel or rear cowl? How this increased the need of cleaning the bike?

[Guest rad]

Quick, 500 mile review

So far I'm very happy with it. I believe chain life is more dependent on keeping a chain clean, crud and grit free, more than anything else. The Pro-Oiler does this incredibly well without you ever having to touch the chain. This is accomplished because the system, like all oilers, is a total loss system; this means every drop of oil placed on the chain leaves that chain at some point, taking with it any dirt and crud. It does not matter what type of paste, wax or oil you use on a chain, if it stays on the chain and does not leave, it collects its share of road grit, oilers do not.

The chain is clean of gunk, fine. Does that mean it all ends up on the rear wheel or rear cowl? How this increased the need of cleaning the bike?

No question about it, the rear wheel has fling on it, not a lot, but more than a conventional good sticking chain lube or wax. If your top priority is the looks of your rear wheel, auto oilers are not your best choice.

[BusyLittleShop]

Eastest way to have a pre oiler is to nick the seal behind your countershaft sprocket... you get a running oil

leak that is not only hot but unlimted as well... Honda's old 305s use to sport s screw at the end of the

countershaft that was designed to meter hot oil on the the chain... with the advent of the O ring chain this

was no longer cost effective so Honda dropped the feature...

[magicman]

The difference being that you now have to keep an extra close eye on your oil level. Low oil in the resevoir of the pro-oiler means you have a dry chain. Low oil with your method means you're about to have issues...

[Tightwad]

Eastest way to have a pre oiler is to nick the seal behind your countershaft sprocket... you get a running oil

leak that is not only hot but unlimted as well... Honda's old 305s use to sport s screw at the end of the

countershaft that was designed to meter hot oil on the the chain... with the advent of the O ring chain this

was no longer cost effective so Honda dropped the feature...

I can just imagine suggesting this as a serious course of action. "Using a medium sewing needle, carefully pierce the seal on the counter shaft, at the 2:00 position. The correct angle is 54 degrees, and should be done with a red-hot needle (white hot could be damaging)"

I have always said my Jeeps oil is self changing.....7 years ago I actually took the oil plug out.

[BusyLittleShop]

The difference being that you now have to keep an extra close eye on your oil level. Low oil in the resevoir of the pro-oiler means you have a dry chain. Low oil with your method means you're about to have issues...

It is written in your owners manual... check oil level on the pre ride inspection or risk being arrested for bike abuse...

[Guest bortz]

Could you take some pics of how much fling off there is after using it? I'm rather intrigued by this pro oiler idea, but am not sure about the fling off.

[BusyLittleShop]

Could you take some pics of how much fling off there is after using it? I'm rather intrigued by this pro oiler idea, but am not sure about the fling off.

You can always find your back home by following the oil spots...