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D Cell Emergency Starter


Peto

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Push starting can work, but sometimes its hard when you are well off the road and have gear/luggage with you. So,
A quick search shows a good D cell can produce about 12,000 mAh. A rechargeable can be quite a bit less (1,800 mAh). If you had 9 batteries, it would give you a max of 108,000 mAh and as low as 16,200 mAh. Turning the key on would probably suck enough power out of the batteries that it wouldn't even think about turning over.

108,000 mAh. 108 Ah. This sounds like a lot of current. I think the battery is only 10Ah and 200CCA. Not sure. Also, the bike running at 5k will only produce about 33 Amps.. The main battery is already powering everything in a weakened state. It just doesnt have enough to actually crank over. It should need very little "extra help" to start the bike. Unless the battery was severely drained.

alwaysaware, Thanks, that is a good idea, however, I could only find ones that were much bigger and heavier than 4" X 3" Also, you dont need to use the cigarette lighter plug, you can cut it off and hard wire it however you want.

kaldek and COD, yes, the voltage is the same (8-9 cells) and it is the current that is questionable.

jimmer, you are right, but, sometimes you shut it off without thinking because you are tired, or because you want it to be quiet while you look over your things on the side of the road. Btw, you can use the flashlight you have in your tankbag to read your map. tongue.gif

Follow the link http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide...cPath=4010.4043 and check it out. I have one of these in my car. The cigarette lighter (after you install it) on your bike can also be used to power your gps and other devices as well as recieving the charge for your battery. Okay, your right my size estamation was off (but that not what the women say). But check out the dimensions on the posted site. Good luck.

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I actually had a battery go bad where I was able to bump start it, but it continued to die while riding on the way home (not stop and go traffic either). At first it would go a few miles before dieing. I'd bump it again and it would start. By the time I got near my house it was dieing every 100 yards or less. I didn't think I was going to make it home (well, I actually had to push it some of the way up a hill).

Sounds more reg/rec than battery to me?

Nope, it was the battery. The volt meter read 14 volts while riding, until the bike died. As soon as I bump started it, the volt meter read 14 volts again. I had a spare battery at home (one of the reasons I was trying to get there) which has been in there the past month or two and it has been running just fine. I'm still a little puzzled as to why it was doing what it was doing.

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The local dealer told me bump starting can damage the stator. Any opinions on that?

Hopefully a sales person and not a tech. I can't even imagine how that could work. :rolleyes:

There is no way for the stator to know, or care, whether the crankshaft is being turned by internal combustion of the engine, a starter motor, or the rear wheel through the transmission.

:biggrin:

He's right. There's 3 things that make a motor run. . . spark, gas and air. Suck, bang, blow. That's the idea behind a combustion engine. It's all nuts and bolts. See, it's simple! :goofy:

The stator makes electricity when it spins. It doesn't care why it's spinning. No harm done. He probably wanted to sell you a new battery.

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The local dealer told me bump starting can damage the stator. Any opinions on that?

The local dealer may have had the right idea but the wrong component. Bump-starting a bike with a flat battery works ok but is less than ideal from the battery's perspective - bike batteries are not as robust as car batteries (you could say that about bike vs. car charging systems in general) and are not designed to be charged from a completely dead condition by anything other than a bike-specific charger... although most riders get by with whatever means is available...

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