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Fuel Pump Not Working After Ignition Is Turned On


Guest lofty1979

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  • Member Contributer

Well, looks like I'm knee deep in this problem as well. I'll keep updates on my progress.

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Well this may not be much of a consolation to those still experiencing this problem, but I found what is almost entirely likely the cause of the problem for me.

gallery_1591_4632_146757.jpg

fuel pump cable This is one potential consequence of trying to jump-start your motorcycle with your car battery with the terminals reversed.

Yeah, so I tried to jump my bike with my car battery (car turned off) one morning except that I accidentally mixed up the polarity of the jumper cables. +1.gif :wub:

I wondered if all that smoke that came out from under my seat would come back to haunt me. Well, at least it is a straightforward fix.

I feel very silly for having done this.

:beer:

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Well, upon further inspection it looks like I gave myself a pretty significant little project. At first I thought I could just splice in a new ground wire, but then I saw that the damage to ground wire went quite a way up the wire harness. It is at least as far as the point where the fuel injector, fuel level sensor, and rear brake cables all come together. I am quite disappointed that I decided to do this during the spring with all this amazing weather. Perhaps this is my opportunity to also do the custom paint I've been thinking about.

*Sigh*

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  • 1 month later...
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This just happenned to me while on a long trip around Mt. Ranier. We heard a clicking sound from bhind the right rear bodywork where the baro sensor is located. Back at home I removed the rear bodywork to get access to the area that was clicking and found a wire leading into the baro sensor had its insulation rubbed off by a subframe bolt head. I've taped both the wire & the bolt head and the bike runs now. Possibly just a short & that's all. Hafta wait & see. The offending bolt head is poorly placed next to this sensor lead. I bet a lot of 5th gens develop this problem.

-Nitro

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  • 1 year later...

I have been struggling with the exact same symptoms as Lofty for the last three months and I am about to give up on it all together. I have a 2000 FiY model and I live in Cape Town, SA.

Symptoms: Fi light stays on; no fuel pump prime, no fire, but engine turns.

I have checked so far:

1. Kill Switch on RUN

2. Battery

3. All fuses

4. Fuel pump

5. Engine stop relay

6. Fuel Cut-off relay

7. Banking Sensor

8. Error codes by bridging service connector

and all is fine according to Haynes Manual.

How do I check for the following:

a. Grounding issues

b. ECM Failure (my biggest fear)

c. HISS (another fear as I only have one key)

Someone mentioned faulty coil connections and baro sensor faults. I will fiddle with that and the side stand switch tonight, however it does not make sense that it could be the side stand or kill switch as the engine turns and it is in neutral?

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  • 3 years later...
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My bike is doing this as well, runs fine after I flip the kill switch a few times and cycle the ignition until I hear it prime. Gotta figure it out soon.

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My bike is doing this as well, runs fine after I flip the kill switch a few times and cycle the ignition until I hear it prime. Gotta figure it out soon.

Try cleaning the contacts in your kill switch. I ended up having to replace my kill switch cluster and the problem went away.

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My bike is doing this as well, runs fine after I flip the kill switch a few times and cycle the ignition until I hear it prime. Gotta figure it out soon.

Try cleaning the contacts in your kill switch. I ended up having to replace my kill switch cluster and the problem went away.

Thanks, that's my plan for this weekend. Hope it's that simple

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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  • 2 weeks later...

spotthedogg - +1 on the kill switch. It's not too difficult to do, but it's easy to lose the small pieces inside the switch, so be careful when dismantling. After cleaning the contacts, you can apply a touch of dielectric grease to them. You will also want to lubricate the spring with dielectric grease.

I recommend doing this ASAP, the kill switch is faulty and it would be dangerous for it to suddenly turn the engine off while riding.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I opened the kill switch, looked new so I just added some dielectric grease. No change, bike runs perfect once started

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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  • 3 months later...
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Mine is still intermittent, if I cycle the kill switch some and the ignition switch it will eventually prime. Makes me think it's a contact point.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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I faced the exact same problem early today on my 6th gen VFR.

Actually, I sort of had this problem since I bought this bike. Fuel pump would not work, unless I steered it a bit. I thought it had something to do with the alarm system the bike had installed when I bought it. Since it worked every time, I left it without further investigation.

Yesterday, the bike refused to start at all after I did some work to it.

Turns out it was the HISS system. To be precise, it was 2 of the 4 little cables coming from the HISS on top of the ignition switch to some other connection under the right fairing. Copper inside them was cut and not connected properly. I realised it because the cables were bent too easily on a specific point. I cut part of the cables that had this problem and replaced part of the cables with others. A friend of mine soldered them to make a connection and used heat shrink for insulation. Now the bike fires up again.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
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I had my 30A main fuse B melt on Monday. Replaced it and rode home, it and the small harness was very warm.

I don't know if these problems are related in any way but seems plausible.

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  • 7 months later...
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Has anyone come up with a best solution for this?

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I went through my harness connectors and found a few with corrosion, cleaned and greased. It has worked every time I've turned the key since yesterday :)

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  • 11 months later...
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It went back to doing the same thing...

BTW, my bike has no HISS

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