Arri Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I like it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcstm3 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Loosen and lower/remove exhaust. Remove heat shields. Put larger holesaw around outer tips and drill circle around them. Take smaller holesaw and fit it between the two tips. Drill until outer tip is removeable. Install mufflers and enjoy. I know this is a long overdue reply, but I just picked up a spare set of OEM cans to try this on. So the difference between your method and the threadstarter is that you are cutting off the exhaust tips, and his method is retaining them, correct? Yours i byfar easier. Do you have a pic not so close up of how it looks without the tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estcstm3 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Any tips to get through the shoulder? I have broken the weld using the 1 inch holesaw but havent made it through the shoulder. Even though its loose once I dremel I dont think I will be able to get that "shoulder" through the exhaust tip opening. I have been going at it with the holesaw for way too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR2k4 Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Very nice guide! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 2, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2016 Any tips to get through the shoulder? I have broken the weld using the 1 inch holesaw but havent made it through the shoulder. Even though its loose once I dremel I dont think I will be able to get that "shoulder" through the exhaust tip opening. I have been going at it with the holesaw for way too long. Post some pic's . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted January 2, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2016 Since you guys are so into bypass mods, I'm going to hook you up with another great idea. The oil bypass kit: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=40&zenid=OFYx5ZRs4FwQYQn1b7iWA3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 OK Doug, how do you bypass the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted January 3, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2016 Well Kevin it's beyond your skillz so I won't explain. Say do you have spare 5th gen motor? Mine's been running a little hot but damn the oil looks good! I shouldn't need to change it for at least 50k miles!!! BTW you'll need a special tool for this project: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=51&zenid=Z40Abxs5Sk4Vqm9TNzpL30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Dude, why yes i do have a spare 5th gen motor. The oil is like new, as it's still in the bottles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC36Rider Posted January 3, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2016 You'll gain so much power once you do away with the losses of having to pump all that heavy viscous fluid, you'll need a set of these as well: Sold in sets of three, because you're worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 3, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2016 You'll gain so much power once you do away with the losses of having to pump all that heavy viscous fluid, you'll need a set of these as well: Sold in sets of three, because you're worth it. Right up until the piston stops . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR2k4 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Im considering doing this while i have pms (parked motorcycle syndrome). But why do you need a drill? Wont the dremel alone be able to cut the pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iakona Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Im considering doing this while i have pms (parked motorcycle syndrome). But why do you need a drill? Wont the dremel alone be able to cut the pipes? Once you take the rear cap off, you have to use a holesaw bit on a power drill to drill around the base of the pipes. Then you're supposed to cut them off. That's how I did mine at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFR2k4 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Cant you just shove the dremel cutter further in the get out the "bottleneck" that you are using a holesaw bit on? I dont got a big drill, just a decent dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iakona Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 It's not really a bottleneck you're trying to get past. It's actually separating the pipes from the back of the can so that they can be removed after you cut them with the dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueBaggerBruce Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I modified my 2012 VFR with just the dremel. I wanted to keep the rear look of the bike as standard so I made an extension for the dremel tool so that I could reach deeper into the exhaust pipe to make the first cut. As with the previous methods described in this forum, I clipped the grinding discs to the opening size of the pipe by using a washer of the exact same inside diameter as a template. Once I had made the initial deep cut through the pipe I then used the standard dremel tool to make the second cut to the pipe just on the inside of the can. Once cut through, the inch or so of internal pipe fell away inside the can. I did this on all four pipes. The effect is a deeper, throatier growl that the bike did not have previously but not so loud as to be unlawful or ridiculously loud. The bike looks stock standard from the rear but sounds great. Any cops checking it out would have no clue of the modification and there are none of the water ingress problems of some of the other modifications. The cut-off sections of the pipe don't rattle or create any issues at all - wouldn't even know they are there. Power, responsiveness and economy of the bike is unchanged. So, for a bargain basement price of about $30 (use the reinforced dremel grinding discs!) I now have a great sounding bike. Sure beats the $1000's for aftermarket pipes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vishwo707 Posted May 4, 2017 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2017 People, what size of Dremel discs have you used for this mods? i have bought a stock exhaust for this modification so if i dont like i still have my original standard exhaust. reading all the comments, i think i will like it and that is what i am after. i could only fine 1.5" diameter discs here in bunnings store. may be i am not looking right. appreciate your guidence. ride safe Vish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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