Member Contributer thx1139 Posted July 23, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2008 I am hoping that I might be able to offer up the .DXF files after I verify that everything works well on my bike so that others can do this same conversion... Kewl. So this is modeled in AutoCAD? I thought the screen grabs looked like Mechanical Desktop. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 23, 2008 Author Share Posted July 23, 2008 Nope, not Mechanical Desktop. I work in the civil engineering trades and own a licensed copy of Civil3D/Land Development Desktop from Autodesk. It just so happens that it runs on the plain-jane AutoCAD engine and you have the option to open it up as regular ol' AutoCAD 2009. BTW, I knew nothing about 3D modelling in AutoCAD prior to modelling the mirror mounts for Darth Bling and then this project. Cool stuff though. It's nice to know that you can make all those parts you really want that nobody else (parts manufacturers) is bothering to offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 23, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2008 No longer made out of "Unobtanium".The real deal just back from the CNC machinist. I popped the stem in moments ago using the old oven/freezer trick (mucho thanks to Busy Little Shop :unsure: ) Thoughts? You're welcome Tim... the clamps look the biz... 40mm offset is very important because it preserves the VFR quick handling rate whereas the stock RC51 offset doesn't... the only the thought that comes to mind is to gull the top clamp like the bottom in order preserver the VFR's front end height and in addition there might be enough room to hang a clip on... If you weight them post the number so I may advise prospective customers... How is the offset measured? 40mm from where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 23, 2008 Author Share Posted July 23, 2008 40mm from center of steering stem to center of fork tubes. Stock VFR offset = 40mm RC51 (SP1) = 30mm This offset difference was one of the deciding factors in having this clamp set made because the overall effect on trail in doing the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 23, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2008 I would love the DXF file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted July 23, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 23, 2008 Nope, not Mechanical Desktop. I work in the civil engineering trades and own a licensed copy of Civil3D/Land Development Desktop from Autodesk. It just so happens that it runs on the plain-jane AutoCAD engine and you have the option to open it up as regular ol' AutoCAD 2009.BTW, I knew nothing about 3D modelling in AutoCAD prior to modelling the mirror mounts for Darth Bling and then this project. Cool stuff though. It's nice to know that you can make all those parts you really want that nobody else (parts manufacturers) is bothering to offer. Cool. I use AutoCAD Architectural Desktop (ADT) 'cos I work for an interior designer. I've done some 3d modelling, not so much with ADT, but with 3D Studio Max. Did you model it as a solid? What did you have to provide the CNC guy with to actually make it? Got me thinking that I might learn how to do this too. I'd be interested in your DXF file too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 I exported the models as .DXF files and then the machinist imported it into his Delcam software. He used a program called Power Shape to do most of the tool pathing. That's about all I know about the process. I will make the files available as soon as I get everything bolted into place and make sure that there's no changes that I have to make. I may ask Miguel if he can make them available through the forum. Meanwhile, I also modelled up a reservoir clamp for my Elka shock because I'm not too fond of the hose clamp mounting. The machinist surprised me with some killer handywork on the clamp face. Needless to say I was incredibly stoked to see the finished product. He's a super talented guy and has his own website at http://www.lonerindustries.com The clamp: Reservoir Clamp1.jpg Close up of logo: Reservoir Clamp2.jpg Now to get this gem off to the anodizer. What color? The fastest color of course.......RED!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer magellan Posted July 24, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 24, 2008 Wow....! If the devil is in the details, your bike is going straight to hell! Very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Wow, that clamp is nice! Hope it's still visible when it's installed! :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Got the triples back from being anodized & powder coated. I'm very pleased with how they turned out. I also installed the bearing races in the frame and pressed on the lower bearing on the stem. Having done that I decided to see if the thing actually fit and if my measurements worked out. Here's a few photos: First fit. Looking good so far - Custom triples first fit A view from the cockpit - Custom triples - Cockpit View The only snag I hit was the lower rubs on the frame a bit even after using the snap ring spacers. The good news is that I only have to remove about a millimeter to get it to work fine and the steering stop locations are perfect. I do hate to grind away that powder coat but at least it's in a non-visible area - Custom triples - A little tight The ingintion lock works perfect as well. WOOT! This was one where I was keeping my fingers crossed - Custom triples - Ignition lock works! Lastly, a side view. I'm slightly bummed that a set of nifty anodized preload adjuster knobs won't fit with the shorter bar rise spacers but I guess I can live with the sacrifice - Custom triples - Side view That's all for now. I've got to get the bars to the machinist tomorrow to open them up to 16mm diameter so a set of Throttlemeister bar ends will fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Kel Posted July 28, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2008 Looks great! Hopefully some of us can benefit from all your hard work with a cad file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 I'll be releasing the CAD files as soon as I make some needed adjustments including the minor interference shown in the photos. I'll also be raising up the portion of the lower triple where the bearing and seal rest so that anyone else that goes this route doesn't need to use snap rings as spacers. :fing02: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer spinalator Posted July 28, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2008 Holy cow, you people never fail to amaze me! :fing02: Silly question, If one is armed with a CAD file, how much would a machine shop charge for the work? I assume they supply the materials? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted July 28, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2008 Lastly, a side view. I'm slightly bummed that a set of nifty anodized preload adjuster knobs won't fit with the shorter bar rise spacers but I guess I can live with the sacrifice - Custom triples - Side view What, you tellin' me you can't design and machine a solution to that? C'mon... :fing02: Silly question (says the man armed with a dial caliper and a not-so-steady eye), but are you sure OEM offset is 40mm and not 39.5mm? Ciao, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Spinalator, Your best bet is networking and trying to find somebody that does CNC machining as either a hobby or low-volume manufacturing. Most large-volume production facilities aren't going to want to set up to do a "one off" piece. The best piece of advice that I can give you is talk with your friends, mechanic, etc. and visit some hardware (nuts/bolts supply) stores and ask if anyone knows a good machinist. The material certainly could be provided by your machinist but you could choose to call around and get the best price. We built these out of 7075 T6 aluminum and because of that the material was more expensive and harder to obtain than 6061 aluminum. JZH, Actually my scale read 39.6294275 mm :biggrin: That was after knocking several back. I'm speculating that 40mm is the magic number because it comes out as 94.98 mm of trail and that's somewhat close to matching the Honda OEM manuals spec for 95 mm of trail :fing02: . I've decided to space the bottom race with another snap ring as opposed to grinding material off of the lower to gain clearance. The next step is to get my OEM parts in and start building the bike back up. Getting closer! I still might make it to the Kootenay Hootenanny on August. WOOT!!! Cheers, -T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted July 28, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted July 28, 2008 Custom triples first fit Custom triples - Side view Hmm, those bars look very familiar..... :fing02: SuperBike Bars Gold renthals with off-road mounts. Nope. I think mine had more rise. What bend number is yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 The bars are Renthal 758-01 Road Ultra Lows. Renthal says the width is 755mm, height is 100mm, rise is 60mm, and sweep is 95mm. Darth Bling recently purchased a set of LSL bars from Spiegler and they are considerably different (but just as nice) from the Renthals. I think that LSL offers a better variety for road options than Renthal. Foto, Truth be told, your post on the superbike bars was a major inspiration for the project :fing02:. Cheers, -T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted August 1, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted August 1, 2008 Another curiousity question --- Assuming you started with a stocker triple for baseline, did you do measurements with a basic digital hand held caliper for this, or did you go whole hog and have a CMM house set up and pick-up the critical points and print out the data? (Been there done that.) MD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Interesting question MD... I have access to a CMM machine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted August 2, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2008 Interesting question MD... I have access to a CMM machine... I work in the automotive engineering/manufacturing world for a living. (bleah) The good side of it is I know a lot of people who I can ask to do oddball bike stuff my geek brain dreams up. (very cool) MD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Interesting question MD... I have access to a CMM machine... I work in the automotive engineering/manufacturing world for a living. (bleah) The good side of it is I know a lot of people who I can ask to do oddball bike stuff my geek brain dreams up. (very cool) MD ...Aerospace sheetmetal manufacturing here... "extracurricular benefits" were easier to get a few years ago, but now that I'm behind a desk its harder and harder. Leaves me trying to save money for the equipment I need at home to do things myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 The only Coordinate Measuring Machine that I used were Starrett metric rules and a digital caliper. That's "close enough for the girls we go with", as they say in the vernacular. I finally got the front end somewhat assembled: Bling-o-licious Another view from the cockpit with controls mounted: Controls are mounted I had to adjust the mounting for the oil cooler as the lower triple was hitting the stock mounting hardware: Alternate oil cooler mounting The lower triple, ever-so-slightly, hits the oil cooler at full lock. I suppose I could add a piece of tape or two to the back side of the steering stops but I figure there's not enough interference to worry about. Left Side: Minor interference left side Right Side: Minor interference right side Another view from the top: We have controls! I had a minor revelation while mounting the controls on the bars. Since the bars are wider than stock, I'll need new throttle cables. I had a minor "Oh S__t" moment with this until Darth Bling informed me that longer throttle cables were available through the Convertibar company. I'll be taking the bike into my dealer on Monday morning to see about getting the wiring recall done. NOTE: A great & many thanks to my friends Magellan and Darth Bling for all of their assistance with this project. Without their combined knowledge and helping hands I would never have undertook this "little" project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Looking better by the day. Good job! Can't you grind the bolt heads down a bit to allow for clearance? You don't have to take much off, and it's a hex head, so you should have no problems afterwards taking them in & out... just an idea. Or slot the holes in the oil cooler mounting tabs, and slide the cooler forward a bit, you have plenty of room to do that also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cassandtim Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Seb, Those bolts are titanium from Yoyodyne. They're worth more than the oil cooler :fing02: . They're only interfering about a millimeter. Magellan was concerned way more than me, and only from a form vs. function standpoint. I'm soooooooo stoked to have this thing almost wrapped up. Keep your fingers crossed for me on the wiring recall. I'm hoping it can be done sometime this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Seb,Those bolts are titanium from Yoyodyne. They're worth more than the oil cooler :goofy: . All that means is that they'll make white sparks instead of red like steel... :goofy: Go ahead and slot the oil cooler holes then, it really can't hurt to do it, especially since it's so accessible at the moment! 10 minutes and a Dremel is all you need. Sorry if that comes off as pushy, I'm just one of those OCD, anal types about how a bike goes together... :fing02: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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