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My 1983 Vf750f Restoration Project, Lotsa Big Pics!


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Here's my photoshop paint:

paintchop.jpg

And here's the pics to go along w/ the work I did on the switches...

For the left side, I had to completely disassemble the new switch and the old switch, so I could swap the wires over.

7-2-09004.jpg

7-2-09005.jpg

It was tedious, but now I have a plug & play switch with new styling and better controls:

7-2-09009.jpg

I cut the locating tabs off the CBR600F3 clip ons and bolted them in place, then threw the switches on to get an idea of how they'd look:

7-2-09011.jpg

Then I added another workbench to the garage:

7-2-09010.jpg

Gotta love it when the company throws away perfectly good stuff!!

Now, the right side. At first it looked like it was going to be difficult, but in the end it was just a matter of extending the 1000RR wires by 9" and leaving the actual switch alone.

First I took both old & new apart to see what I had going on, because I counted 7 pins in each harness plug, yet the VF switch pod had 8 wires coming out of it... hmm...

7-2-09013.jpg

Turns out the extra wire in the VF pod was due to a difference in the configuration of the starter button - the VF switch has 4 poles and the CBR switch only has three.

CBR:

7-2-09016.jpg

VF:

7-2-09018.jpg

So the VF has an extra wire, fine. Now all I had to do was make the wiring longer and put the VF plug on the end! Luckily I had a rashed up F4i switch "in stock", and lo and behold, all the wires in it are the same color too, save for the brake switch wires. Those are BL/Y & BL/Gr vs the Gr/Y & Wh/Gr of the VF.

The harness plug is even the same, except for color:

7-2-09022.jpg

Cut the wiring and rubber sleeve to the desired length, and removed the CBR plug:

7-2-09023.jpg

***more coming later, gotta run out for a BBQ*** :cool: tongue.gif+1.gif

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Nice electrical but good grief that's a lot of work, cut & splice for me. :mad:

Seb, here's a pic. Was 'told' this is the DK 1/6 turn, I don't see any markings and can't verify it but it came from a track bike rental shop owner. I assume the cable slot diameter is slightly larger than OEM, but I don't have an original to compare.

IMG_6401Medium.jpg

IMG_6402Medium.jpg

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That looks great Mike, I'd love to try it out! I forgot to send that PM the other day... sending now... :dry:

I have a stock 600RR throttle here in one of the parts cabinets for the 86 VFR, I can compare the two and let you know of any differences. :mad:

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Nice electrical but good grief that's a lot of work, cut & splice for me. :cool:

Seb, here's a pic. Was 'told' this is the DK 1/6 turn, I don't see any markings and can't verify it but it came from a track bike rental shop owner. I assume the cable slot diameter is slightly larger than OEM, but I don't have an original to compare.

IMG_6401Medium.jpg

IMG_6402Medium.jpg

If Seb doesn't want it, I'm in!

wink.gif

Hey seb, what was this control off of again?

7-2-09009.jpg

I must have missed it. CBR1000R? I'm wondering because it actually has a choke lever that looks like it would work with the VF!

Edited by greatwhite
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It's from a 1998 VFR800. The part that looks like a choke lever is a "fast idle" lever on that bike, it was fuel injected but had a manual fast idle. And yes, the reason I chose to use that part was because of the modern controls, and the retention of the choke lever. The VF choke cable swaps right in.

And, I am going to try Capn's throttle. If I don't like it, it's all yours! :cool:

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It's from a 1998 VFR800. The part that looks like a choke lever is a "fast idle" lever on that bike, it was fuel injected but had a manual fast idle. And yes, the reason I chose to use that part was because of the modern controls, and the retention of the choke lever. The VF choke cable swaps right in.

And, I am going to try Capn's throttle. If I don't like it, it's all yours! :fing02:

I'm using the same left switch gear on my '86 1000. Hope the throttle works!

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It's from a 1998 VFR800. The part that looks like a choke lever is a "fast idle" lever on that bike, it was fuel injected but had a manual fast idle. And yes, the reason I chose to use that part was because of the modern controls, and the retention of the choke lever. The VF choke cable swaps right in.

And, I am going to try Capn's throttle. If I don't like it, it's all yours! :fing02:

I'm using the same left switch gear on my '86 1000. Hope the throttle works!

The best part of the whole deal is the newer turn signal switch. That little slide lever on the VF pod is a PITA! + one less thing to get used to when hopping off one bike, and on to the next!

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Here's a few more pics...

Splicing the extra 9" to the 1000RR kill switch:

7-4-09008.jpg

Also added 9" of protective rubber tubing from the pod that donated the wiring, so now it looks like a factory finish:

7-4-09009.jpg

And I'm happy w/ the new worbench, so you guys get to see it again! :fing02:

7-4-09013.jpg

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Thanks Rob, I will try my best, as usual!

I won't be able to make it to the Summit, with or without this bike, but I do want to finish it soon. It's all about time now, and work + family = hit or miss as far as garage time goes.

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Looks good Seb.

You may not like the sprocket black there, but you are more than welcome to come clean the sprocket on my 1R sometime. I am sure you will do it once.

BTW........ are you going to ride this thing? It may a bit too clean for that. :cool:

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Hi seb,

Can't remember which thread it was so I'll post it here:

I got home yesterday and went rooting through my parts bins.

Those front calipers?

Well, they're gone.

Wife cleaned the garage and they got thrown out "somehow".

sorry bro, I won't be able to help you out there.

Cheers

Edited by greatwhite
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As stated, weekend was busy but I did a little work on the bike. I changed the thermo switch connector for the lower rad to a pair of female spade connectors to match the 700F rad (750 had a 2 prong plug, 700 = spade for power on switch, spade on rad body for ground), and also chopped the fuse box off my spare VTEC harness to be modified & installed within the upper fairing stay on this 750F.

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Dangit, I'll have to keep looking.

I haven't stepped foot in the garage yet his weekend - my wife & I got approved for a mortgage so we were out picking out the house...

LOL, we just applied for a mortgage yesterday!

Another 400,000 to go on top of the gurrent 200,000 house................sheesh...............

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Guest motorhead1977

On the good news front Seb, I have an extra VF750F fuse block for you! Wow, all this borrowing! It must make our new President proud!...And his banker friends more wealthy. Enjoy those homes guys.

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Thanks Tom, I will tear through the garage & shed one (or 2 or 3) more times before I take the trip to borrow yours. Dunno where I'd be without ya(probably going blind from searching ebay!). :fing02:

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New pics...

New wire ends for the temp sensor on the lower rad:

7-15-09001.jpg

With a lot of effort and PB Blaster, I got the clutch slave apart. Need to order a seal kit for it. Already started dressing it with 1500 grit paper, not much, just enough to take a little oxidation off.

7-15-09003.jpg

Old & new clutch line - new is bulk Earl's Speed-Flex -3 hose. Red & blue anodized hose ends should finish it off nicely...

7-15-09004.jpg

Propsed location for the new, smaller fuse box taken from my recalled VTEC harness:

7-15-09009.jpg

And, sadly, I discovered that I will not be able to run my clip ons. With the controls mounted, the clutch lever will hit the fairing. A "regular" clutch master might buy me enough room, but I really want to use the 1000RR radial master that I already bought & paid for...

Mounting of the Rizoma mirror is turning out to be a bit of a puzzle, but I have a plan. It will end up mounting on the bracket attached to the clutch perch, but I'll have to chop up the first mount I bought to make it work. It's ok, they're Hong Kong parts anyway! :warranty:

7-15-09010.jpg

7-15-09011.jpg

7-15-09014.jpg

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I might be able to make some spacer risers to install under the current clip ons, but I think it'll look funny and would rather have a factory-finished look by using a set of 5th gen or other OEM 41mm clip ons that have a minimum of 2" of rise.

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Here's the Hong Kong parts I'm using to mount the mirror:

7-15-09012.jpg

Looks like I'm going to have to cut the mirror mount piece fro mthe bar mount, and stick that on the end of the smaller angled bracket which will mount on the clutch perch using one of the existing screws.

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Another big step completed yesterday - I got the carbs in. It was much easier than I thought it was going to be. After installing the throttle & choke cables, it took 5 minutes to prep and 5 min to pop the carbs in. I'm pretty sure it can be attributed to the new carb insulator boots, they're so much more pliable than the hard-as-nails pieces that came off so long ago...

Taking a step back, I started my afternoon prepping the coils. The Accel coils have a pair of threaded studs on each coil where the OEM's have male spade connectors. Also, with the OEM setup, the input connections are on the right side of each coil, the new coil setup puts all four inputs in the middle, which means I had to extend the right side wires. I also soldered spade connectors to the coil studs.

Not sure how well it will work yet, I can always melt the solder back off and install ring terminals on the wires...

7-19-09002.jpg

7-19-09004.jpg

7-19-09009.jpg

Next order of business was the throttle and clutch cables - more of a headache than I bargained for... the throttle side of things went ok, I had a brain fart about which end to connect first but got over that quickly and moved on to the choke. As you know, I am not using the original choke lever or the original left side control... and that's where the headache started.

Upon closer inspection, you will note that the original choke wheel(flanked here by a pair of '98 VFR parts) wraps the choke cable around a much smaller diameter, while the 98 parts have a larger diameter for the cable pull. Secondly, the integrated hard stops which limit the movement of the lever are different. Lastly, the 98 VFR cable end is narrower than the VF cable end.

7-19-09011.jpg

To solve these issues, I cut one of the stops back on the VFR wheel as shown above, then later cut a bit more off. I also drilled a new hole and cut a new slot closer to the stop, giving the cable more slack. I had to grind on the VF cable end to get it to fit and move smoothly in the VFR housing.

I will try to get another picture of the final version of the modified wheel for reference in case anyone else wants to try this. With the wheel modified the way I have it now, the choke operates smoothly, closes all the way with the lever up, and is full open with the lever down.

With that taken care of, I tightened up all the cable connections and installed the rack!

Ready,

7-19-09005.jpg

Set,

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Pop!

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That's just gorgeous!

7-19-09015.jpg

It brought a big smile to my face when I grabbed the throttle and gave it a couple twists, feeling the resistance of the springs and the tap of the butterflies closing was great! It's really feeling like I might ride it soon! :wub:

Coils in:

7-19-09020.jpg

Rear wires done:

7-19-09021.jpg

Fronts set up:

7-19-09023.jpg

7-19-09026.jpg

I need to confirm the routing of the left front wire, then I can finish those up.

I had a few silicone "donuts" left over from cutting excess off the boots, and I found a couple neat uses for them...

I put one under the chassis ground wire connection to 1) Keep dirt away and 2) To support the wire and keep it from *potentially* breaking off from the seat pushing on it. Could be complete B.S. on my part, but it was getting late and in any case it looks neat...

7-19-09024.jpg

The other use I found makes more sense at least; I needed a spot to mount the new little fuse box, and two 1/4" sections of the silicone fit the bill nicely:

7-19-09027.jpg

Busted out the Dremel - I still thank my Dad for buying me the Dremel for Christmas over 15 years ago!

7-19-09028.jpg

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See where I'm going with this?

7-19-09030.jpg

I'll use two zip ties to secure it once it's wired in, even with one it felt pretty secure but I'm not taking any chances.

Hopefully more to come very soon!

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Thanks! I'm not sold on the blue wires. They looked like a darker blue in the online pics. I have the yellow wires that came with the kit, but they are 8.8mm wires and wouldn't work with the NGK resistor caps... I might check out the red and pass the blue wires on to someone else as a kit.

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Thanks! I'm not sold on the blue wires.

I was thinking the same thing but who the hell am I...

I'm pretty sure it can be attributed to the new carb insulator boots, they're so much more pliable than the hard-as-nails pieces that came off so long ago...

A friend of mine used radiator hose for carb boots on his FZR1000. Swears by them.

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