SEBSPEED Posted June 7, 2008 Author Share Posted June 7, 2008 So, I finally got a little more done on the bike! I assembled the second fork and it went together well, and it works a lot better than it did before... the only thing I did differently during assembly was to hold the fork upright when I tightened the bottom bolt with my impact gun, where last time I held it horizontally. :fing02: Any way, it works now, so... on the bike it goes! Used the old bearing races to tap in the new ones, I had planned to borrow the special tool from the local Honda dealer, but they didn't have the one I needed. Got the lower triple in: Checked my clearances to the frame on either side; the triple was hitting the frame before I modified the stop with a pair of screws, looks like they worked out pretty well! I retained a lot of the steering travel, and the triple doesn't hit the frame. Right side: Left side: Upper triple is in, with the right leg: Used a VTEC top bridge nut & steering plug, and you can see the Yoshimura F3 billet clip on there: My son helped me tap out the holes for the rotor bolts(dirty in the first place, plus glass bead leftovers): Then I bolted the rotors on that I painted a while back, and threw the wheel up on the lift as well as installed the other fork leg: I'm digging the black on white! :biggrin: If you didn't notice in those pics, there is a custom fork brace in there that Jamie Daugherty designed and had another guy machine for me, it's made to bolt on the 1000R forks and hold a 750F fender! Yay!! I'm not liking the rough machine finish, so I will be sanding and polishing that piece at some point, it's too nice to paint black, but looks rough as-is. I spent an evening with my regulator-rectifier/fuel pump bracket, and this turned out real nice. I am going to try out the gravity feed fuel setup, so I got rid of the pump for now, removed the R/R, and degreased the whole plastic bracket. It cleaned up really well, and looks like new now! Here it is with the R/R back on(the bolts were wire wheeled before reassembly): Another little success story here is the shock linkage. Man, was that thing dirty! It had a layer of grime like you wouldn't believe... and the linkage arms(I like to call them drumsticks :rolleyes:) were pretty rusty. Another can of degreaser, a little glass bead blasting, and a spritz of paint later - much better! Installed: Other side: In that pic you can see the foam I filled the swingarm with, it's just the stuff that comes in the can "Great Stuff" it's called. I put the cush rubbers back in the F2 wheel, slipped on the specially machined hub, and then, finally, after much ado, I have a rolling chassis!! Seeing that got me motivated to install the brand new upper fairing stay that I bought 2 years ago, it was damaged during shipping & so I had to spend about 45 minutes with various tools to get it just right again, but it's about perfect now. Then I just had to throw the new headlight in to see how it would look, I think it's going to be pretty badass!! :fing02: Any thoughts, opinions, comments/questions/concerns are welcome! :fing02: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 Suggestion: clearcoat the bare aluminum suspension linkage. The stuff for auto wheels in a spraybomb would work a treat! I used this brand on my Ranger wheels and it's great: http://www.duplicolor.com/products/wheel.html HWP103 Clear 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted June 7, 2008 Share Posted June 7, 2008 Looking good, but what's up with the RWB colors? I thought you were going with all grey shades, or this this one from a spare set. The clipons look nice, but wouldn't it be a lot easier if the bolts that clamp the clipons to the fork stanchions were oriented the other way round? Seems like you can't reach the bolts when the master brake cilinder is installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer The mailman Posted June 8, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted June 8, 2008 Damn Seb! Between you and BusyLittleShop, you guys could produce your own line of bikes. I'm all for the RWB combo. My only problem with putting in those kinds of hours in a project like that is that I would have to build a vault to keep it in. I wouldn't even trust myself to ride the thing around the block. Your garage makes my little Craftsman tool box on the counter in my garage look like a little girls finger nail kit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 Looking good, but what's up with the RWB colors? I thought you were going with all grey shades, or this this one from a spare set. The clipons look nice, but wouldn't it be a lot easier if the bolts that clamp the clipons to the fork stanchions were oriented the other way round? Seems like you can't reach the bolts when the master brake cilinder is installed. Rosso, I am doing the "shades of gray" job, for sure. I do have a second(even some triples of some parts) that I'm going to do in RW&B at some point. The tank and tail are there for motivation right now, also to test the clip-on clearance(which is GOOD!) :rolleyes: My controls are going to consist of (L side) 900RR grip, 98 VFR800 signal pod & choke, and CBR1000RR clutch master(small res), and on the right side, 900RR grip/throttle housing(small), CBR1000RR start/stop switch(slim like the RC51), and 2004 Yamaha/Brembo radial master cyl(has cup-type remote res). Shouldn't be any issues with getting to the clip ons, although once they are on there, they will probably stay for a long time, unless I decide to go higher, in which case I'll strap on a set of stock CBR600F3 bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Any thoughts on painting the foam in your swingarm black, so it doesn't get dirty white looking from Splooge? Looks good to me, I like the white on black as well. Have you considered doing your own powdercoating? Check out thise setup (Mitch Patrie, the Mojo Lever Guy) And for the oven: I love the way the guy thinks....gives me all sorts of ideas guaranteed to make the wife shake her head. http://home.comcast.net/~prestondrake/Stuff_Workshop.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 Any thoughts on painting the foam in your swingarm black, so it doesn't get dirty white looking from Splooge? Looks good to me, I like the white on black as well. Have you considered doing your own powdercoating? Check out thise setup (Mitch Patrie, the Mojo Lever Guy) Yes, and yes. I even went so far as to haul in a free, used electric home oven to bake the parts in, but never got around to buying the gun kit, so I gave the oven away to someone else. Was going to buy all my supplies from the same place I get my polishing stuff, caswellplating.com & Eastwood. One of those things that never happened. I also have an old TIG welding cabinet I got from work(the blue thing seen in a couple pics above) that I'm going to convert to a sand/glass bead cabinet, not giving up on that one, just one of those "gotta get around to it" things. I'm saying right now that I won't be riding this bike enough to get it "sploogy", but you never know, might have to cover up some dirt with paint in the future... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Couple new pics with seat and fender eliminator being tested... Seat was done by Wells Upholstery & Canvas in Ohio, by Dale(theoxmole)'s Mom! :unsure: That's an old BS license plate I keep around for the heck of it, the new one will be a custom plate, but I'm keeping it to myself for now. :goofy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 26, 2008 Author Share Posted July 26, 2008 Tiny little update, took the gauge cluster apart to repair the broken trip meter. Back when I tried to take out the little screw that holds the reset knob, the screw snapped off, and also broke the arm for the spring on the inside of the meter reset assembly. Luckily I have two extra clusters, so I christened my new workbench with a Swiss watchmaker feel... The one that snapped off, and the replacement above: I also wanted to swap out the white backing tub, because the bottom left tab had a piece missing: First one apart: Second one apart: Knob ready for reconditioning, I dunked it in the Vaseline, wrapped it in a shop towel, and stuffed it in the little baggie with its screw. Cleaned the tub: Pulled the old shaft and replaced with better, also replaced a small plastic piece inside the meter assembly. Reset and realigned all the trip meter tumblers, and reassembled(with an different knob for illustration, the other is still soaking). I am now waiting on a shipment from superbrightleds.com, I am replacing all the bulbs with 5-led bulbs in the tub, all will be red to really set off the already red-colored gauges, also replacing the indicator lights with smaller led's, color coded to the indicators. Should be nice and bright and rich. :fing02: And here's a shot of the right side Vance & Hines full system, not the best shot, I know, but at least I've posted on now... I won't be using the V&H cans, I'm making custom carbon exhausts that will slip on to the head pipes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest terrawhistle Posted August 11, 2008 Share Posted August 11, 2008 Does that rear shock have an extension on the bottom? I'm searching around for a replacement for my VF700F rear shock and the Dougherty solution seems reasonable, except for the $200 price tag. Not that it's not worth it, but the bike only cost $900. I'm looking at bolting on a 3 1/2" extension to a CBR600 rear shock myself. Any suggestions or advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted August 11, 2008 Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 That shock came from Works Performance in a box, it's not a rebuilt unit. Chev bought it new, and when his motor popped I bought it from him. I don't see why you couldn't make the extension yourself, provided you have the skills and the equipment to do it properly. On another note, my project completion goal of August '08 is not going to happen. I think I will be lucky to have this bike ready for the spring of '09. Thanks for watching folks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Meh. Meh this, I dare you! :fing02: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: and Seb, I will be needing the '86 wheels, if you please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dude Posted September 4, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted September 4, 2008 Seb outstanding work my friend. You've done a hell of a job bringing her back to her former glory Makes me wish I didnt unload my 84 lastweek :fing02: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 Meh. Meh this, I dare you! :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: :pissed: and Seb, I will be needing the '86 wheels, if you please. Man, that thing is sweet! Ah, yes - the fabled prototype... Project Blackbird... did you know there were at least two of these? I can't remember the guy's name who owns this one and a bunch of other vintage racebikes(they call him Mr. Superbike). The second one is on the cover of the December 1982 issue of Cycle World, you can tell by the extra frame spar under the tank/side panel that did not make it to the production bikes. Timmah - the wheels are yours, we'll have to figure out how to keep the '86 rollable temporarily... I'm guessing you already bought extra cans of flat black paint? :fing02: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 here go. (lotsa great HRC V45 Interceptor pix) http://www.vintagesuperbike.com/photos/bikeFromPast.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 Lots of good stuff there, makes me wish I had just a little more spending cash. Just a little! ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 any new updates??? No, not really. I did manage to break a bolt off in the motor... one of the upper mount bolts. :biggrin: It's soaking in PB Blaster while I get my hands on a left-handed/fluted drill bit... :blink: The motor has been brought to new-looking condition thanks to a small can of S100 Engine Brightener - that stuff is amazing! (and expensive!) I have another box of parts that I need to glass bead blast, then repaint. Got new o-ring seals for the water pipes on the motor. Got more exhaust ideas. I also bought a bunch of LEDs to replace all the bulbs in the gauge cluster, but they don't fit the sockets on the harness, so I'll have to fiddle with the harness and cut/solder all the LEDs in... Fuel oil for the garage(yes, I have a heated garage) will have to be rationed to the days that I'm feeling really inspired/motivated this winter... it's going to be a long, cold winter and the oil has never been so damn expensive - talk about "burning your cash"! :mad: I am still hoping to be done by spring though. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted October 29, 2008 Author Share Posted October 29, 2008 I am now waiting on a shipment from superbrightleds.com, I am replacing all the bulbs with 5-led bulbs in the tub, all will be red to really set off the already red-colored gauges, also replacing the indicator lights with smaller led's, color coded to the indicators. Should be nice and bright and rich. :fing02: It took long enough, but I found a way to get those 5-led bulbs in the 750 housing. I needed bigger sockets to hold the bulbs, and "lucky me" the 86 VFR I just got has the right size sockets. So I cut 5 sockets off the 86 cluster harness, and drilled out the 83 socket holes to .5" to accept the new sockets. Got all the bulbs in and reinstalled the gauges in the tub, then reattached the harness to the back of the tub. I need to cut the old sockets off, solder the new sockets in, then install the LEDs for the indicator lights and the cluster rebuild will be complete. I have fresh pics of this stuff that I will post tonight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted October 29, 2008 Author Share Posted October 29, 2008 Here's the pics I promised. Drilling: Old 86 bulb/new LED bulb: Cutting the harness: Pigtails cleaned & installed: With bulbs: I cleaned the harness and wire wheeled all the connections with my Dremel, and cut the old sockets off. Here it is installed waiting to have the wire ends stripped and soldered to the new sockets: With bulbs & gauges: & the old gauges look so much better without the faded cover over them... That's all for now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 Pic of the new LEDs lighting the gauges! Sorry about the cell pic, best we could do at the time. It was plugged into a friends' bike as a check, works great! They are bright enough to see in the daytime! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Old School Posted November 19, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted November 19, 2008 Another neat item on the mod list - I was inspired by this pic I found on the web to go on a hunt for a clear automotive head light to use(some of you may remember the post), well, I found out it's the same unit used in early '90s Chevy S-10s, H60something or other. I bought a pair, and member Chickenofthesea(Matt) and I split the cost. We might upgrade to HID together later this year! Enjoy. More posting when I can. Tell me about the S-10 head light install? Did it bolt right in or did you have to mod it? And did you see the new HI/LO HID bulbs? Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 Quick ebay search results: HERE Any 1988-1993 Chevy S-10/GMC S-15/Blazer/Jimmy headlight will fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chickenofsea Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 More than you wanted to know about HID in a Gen I. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=42231&hl= Tell me about the S-10 head light install? Did it bolt right in or did you have to mod it? And did you see the new HI/LO HID bulbs?Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 So this is my latest cause of de-motivation... a broken mount bolt in the head. That little dot all the way in there is the second broken extractor. And the gauges got some liquid electrical tape on the new bulb connections. Lame update, I know, but better than none I hope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted December 10, 2008 Author Share Posted December 10, 2008 NO JB WELD!!!!!!!!!!! Can't drill from the other side, it's accessible, but 1) I don't want to 2) it might eventually compromise the motor mount and 3) even if I drill from the back, the drill will still stop when it hits the extractor, it's too hard to drill. I have to sit down with the Dremel (again) and grind out the leftover extractor (again) then make a tool to center an oversize drill over the hole, and drill it all out, then tap to the next size up. Just not motivated at the moment. And the last four grinding stones I had to buy were $3.30 each... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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