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My 1983 Vf750f Restoration Project, Lotsa Big Pics!


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A friend of mine used radiator hose for carb boots on his FZR1000. Swears by them.

I don't see why it wouldn't work, as long as it holds up to fuel? Might be a little more difficult to get the clamps to stay in place.

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Wow. Lots of progress.

Real fine work on the switch wiring.

I would ditch the blue ignition wires and go for plain black ones. The oil lines/fittings look great.

Overall, the bike looks fantastic so far.

You're moving or an investment house?

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Wow. Lots of progress.

Real fine work on the switch wiring.

I would ditch the blue ignition wires and go for plain black ones. The oil lines/fittings look great.

Overall, the bike looks fantastic so far.

You're moving or an investment house?

Plain black, blech. 90% of the bike is black!

I'm replacing the old house w/ a new one(same property).

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Man, looking great, you could eat off that thing. :laugh:

I might just do that - put it on display in the dining room in the new house! :wheel: Thanks!

How are you doing with your R? I'm still eager to know how your front end works out(wheel & brake alignment).

I didn't get out to the garage yesterday, maybe tonight? :dry:

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Just ordered a couple bags of stainless allen bolts for the clutch and stator covers - I wasn't looking forward to polishing all the current fasteners... also ordered 5' of high temp braided sleeving to slip over the fuel lines. Theier warehouse is located in New Jersey, so I'm hoping the stuff shows up tomorrow!

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Just ordered a couple bags of stainless allen bolts for the clutch and stator covers - I wasn't looking forward to polishing all the current fasteners... also ordered 5' of high temp braided sleeving to slip over the fuel lines. Theier warehouse is located in New Jersey, so I'm hoping the stuff shows up tomorrow!

Ding! Ordered at 9am yesterday, delivered at 2pm today!! Nice!

Bolts are in the motor, installed the new gaskets too, of course - after scraping the old gasket and sealant remnants off. Working on the fuse box now, and it's a headache.

Electric work is not my thing, but I should be much better at it once this thing is done. Already learned a lot! :blink:

Going to try and get the fuse box done tonight and the fuel filter/fuel lines tonight/tomorrow, plus whatever else I can! The weather has been really horrible for riding, so I'm taking advantage! :laugh:

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How are you doing with your R? I'm still eager to know how your front end works out(wheel & brake alignment).

All the pressure, let's see you install two forks, a wheel and two calipers in less than 2 months!! :laugh: :huh:

:beer: :goofy:

I have the wheel on and the left caliper, they're all lined up ok, same as with the original forks. I'm using the same slimmed down right spacer, took about half the width off Jamie's original dimensions (~5mm down to about 3mm I think?). I think I'll have the same issue with the right caliper alignment, need to take some material (~2mm) off the mount on the fork or the caliper bracket to get it lined up. I'd be further along but all the brake parts were pretty cruddy and needed cleaning. That bit of anal retentiveness is your fault for posting such nice pics of your super clean build. wink.gif :blink:

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Thanks! I'm not sold on the blue wires. They looked like a darker blue in the online pics. I have the yellow wires that came with the kit, but they are 8.8mm wires and wouldn't work with the NGK resistor caps... I might check out the red and pass the blue wires on to someone else as a kit.

Will the yellows work if you trim off just the yellow plastic outer coating enough to go in the caps?

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How are you doing with your R? I'm still eager to know how your front end works out(wheel & brake alignment).

All the pressure, let's see you install two forks, a wheel and two calipers in less than 2 months!! :laugh: :blink:

:goofy: :goofy:

I have the wheel on and the left caliper, they're all lined up ok, same as with the original forks. I'm using the same slimmed down right spacer, took about half the width off Jamie's original dimensions (~5mm down to about 3mm I think?). I think I'll have the same issue with the right caliper alignment, need to take some material (~2mm) off the mount on the fork or the caliper bracket to get it lined up. I'd be further along but all the brake parts were pretty cruddy and needed cleaning. That bit of anal retentiveness is your fault for posting such nice pics of your super clean build. wink.gif :cool:

Aw, come on, you can do it!! I do believe that Chev removed the material from his caliper bracket to make his JD kit work. I should have taken pics while I was looking at it - hindsight being 20/20 and all... :blush:

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Man, and I thought the electric stuff was gonna be hard... the hand controls are going to give me a headache! Well, mostly trying to make the mirror work(yes, just one for now).

On the stock bike, the mirrors thread into bosses on the master cylinders. The CBR1000RR clutch master and Brembo brake master do not have these provisions... I don't really want to use bar end mirrors, but may have to?

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On the stock bike, the mirrors thread into bosses on the master cylinders. The CBR1000RR clutch master and Brembo brake master do not have these provisions... I don't really want to use bar end mirrors, but may have to?

Here you go! :cool:

cycleaware_mirror.jpg

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Ok, pic update.

Here's what I started with for the fuse box:

8-1-09023.jpg

Open both wiring diagrams, start studying, cutting... somewhere in the middle you get a mess:

8-1-09031.jpg

In the end it wasn't too bad, I had to pull some extra wires from a second spare modern fuse box. The VF uses 4 fuses, so 4 wires plus 1 common wire. The VFR box is just a clusterf__k, thin wires, thick wires, everything is connected to something, etc. So I pulled all the wires from the VFR box, and a few extra from my spare CBR box to gather 7 individual wires, plus 1 wire that had a double connector on the end.

8-1-09041.jpg

I put the double and 2 singles on one side of the box, and the 4 singles on the other. Soldered the 3 wires into an extension to run into the harness connector as the common wire, and connected the other 4 to 1 wire each at the harness connector.

8-1-09042.jpg

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So I effectively went from this, with glass fuses,

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To this, with nice mini blade fuses:

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Also replaced the stator and clutch cover screws with stainless bolts. Much better, yes/no?

8-1-09007.jpg

8-1-09010.jpg

8-1-09012.jpg

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Installed the new fuel filter, and got all the new fuel lines cut, sleeved, and installed. The high temp sleeving came from Mcmaster-Carr along with the bolts. It was pretty cheap too, $1.36 per foot.

8-1-09035.jpg

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I need to find a tee for the crankcase breather hoses. I looked at Advance and Home Depot today, will check NAPA tomorrow since they were closed by the time I got out of the garage today. I picked up a cheap breather filter at Advance during the week in anticipation of doing this:

8-1-09048.jpg

Plan is to tee in the hose from the airbox just below the top of the shock mount. That way both lines feed into the filter, and I get to ditch the gnarly puke box that used to live under the seat. I'm not sure yet if I should enclose the filter somehow, or should I just check it frequently to keep the bike from getting all spooged up?

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& trying to take control of the situation is tough sometimes... my lovely Rizoma mirror idea is not working out. This is after my CBR F3 clip on idea failed too. Right now I have a set of 4th gen bars on there, which do clear the fairing:

8-1-09038.jpg

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Using the VFR left switch control and the RR radial clutch master doesn't leave room on the bar for any extra 7/8" clamp mounts... so I have to get creative in mounting the mirror. I bought some chinese aluminum parts in hopes of making something work:

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But alas, it's too tall and will hit the fairing when the bars turn.

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Plus, it just doesn't look right. I don't want to mount it on the fairing. I'm hesitant to use bar end mirrors, since 1) I like this one, and 2) I don't like using the bar ends, they're too far out of my sight line so I have to take my eyes off the road longer to check them.

I might try to lower it a little tomorrow, not sure that will help.

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Can you mount the mirror into the top of the clamp directly and just ditch the arm? Maybe with a little work, down through the lever pivot? I agree, everything else you've done looks semi OEM that these arms look a little "cruiser-ish" in comparison. No?

mirror%20mount%20copy.jpg

Edited by Kel
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Trouble is, there isn't enough room left on the bar to mount the clamp, that's why I cut the first one. Sorry, I didn't specify that. I might try to get another whatchamacallit - the clamp piece for the clutch master - maybe I can weld the mirror mount to the top of that, or make a new one entirely... ?

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Ah yes, now I see. I had the smaller kill switch side on the brain and figured you had room for the clamp but I can see now that the left switch is an issue.

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Hey look what I got in the mail :cool:

gallery_8868_2008_114059.jpg

Good use chin fairing for a 83

Witch brings up the point why I have to replace mine.

gallery_8868_2008_204211.jpg

Exhaust heat damage

So if you did not know all ready put some heat shield on the inside of the fairing.

Witch Honda did (I think in 84 and up).

gallery_8868_2008_346348.jpg

100_4908.JPG

And wrap your exhaust.

gallery_8868_2008_582099.jpg

Wrap IT! 83's will melt the fairing.

Yes I would like to have wrapped it all the way back but thats all I had.

Put this on your list, I don't want you damage that masterpiece :laugh:

Stephen

Edited by Old School
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