Member Contributer Rice Posted May 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 I am in the process of gathering the intelligence for a DIY setup. Found Turner clamps and bar for $102 Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RDMcD Posted May 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 (edited) Don't know if anyone remembers a few posts from years ago about using vf1000f bars from a 1984-85 interceptor, to replace 5th gen bars. I gave up on waiting for a used set of heli's and decided to try these. My local wrecker had a set for $80, plus $10 for a can of spray paint. I've got them installed and they feel good, supposed to be about the same position as heli bars. The throttle cable is just long enough and is a little bit tight at full right turn. I see people reroute the cables but I'm not sure of any shorter route . Anyone have suggestions ? If I get longer cables do I want them from an st1100 or st1300? Here are pictures if anyone is interested. An easy and economical solution. Sorry, just realized most of you are working on 6th gens and these only work with 5th gen. Edited May 8, 2015 by RDMcD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
number9 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Come back, I'm a 5th gen owner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Dmitry... you really should have bought those clamps from me. I have them all set up already with new bearings, modified top clamp to fit risers AND have risers installed! Sweet talk me and maybe I'll just sell you the top clamp with risers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design Well if you go to superbike bars, you don't need the gulwing top yoke to get clearance for above yoke clipons so you can replace it with a flat top yoke, so the problem will not be a problem ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I am in the process of gathering the intelligence for a DIY setup. Found Turner clamps and bar for $102 Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design Rice, Use an RC51 upper triple, and you can drill the top for your aftermarket bar clamps. Same spacing between 929/954 and RC51, so it slips right on. And it's flat on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
number9 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Really stupid question -- when you take the upper triple off, are there any bearings/seals to replace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 If that is all you remove from the bike, then no, you do not disturb the bearings. Although at the very least, it would be good to check the tension on them. BUT, if they haven't been looked at in awhile (cleaned, inspected, and greased), then it's probably time to do so, while it's already halfway apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 I am in the process of gathering the intelligence for a DIY setup. Found Turner clamps and bar for $102 Just need to understand whether this setup will work with a 929 tripple, which has little room due to a gull wing design Rice, Use an RC51 upper triple, and you can drill the top for your aftermarket bar clamps.Same spacing between 929/954 and RC51, so it slips right on. And it's flat on top. doesn't it have to be either the SP1 or SP2? I thought there was a difference in the steering stem diameter... or something that made the two versions slightly different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 SP1, it has the smaller diameter steering stem, which matches the 929/954. Thanks for pointing that out, I forgot about it. SP2 has a much larger diameter hole for the steering stem. Too big. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted June 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted June 3, 2015 If I just fit helibars will the stock cables grips etc fit ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SCguy Posted June 26, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted June 26, 2015 I'm really interested in the Renthal 756 conversion. I have a 99 and I have just a few questions to clear up before I bite the bullet on the parts. ST1100 cables are the way to go? From what I'm seeing, they're the same part numbers throughout the year range. I haven't seen anything relating to the fast idle lever on the 98-99 models. Will it reach? My wrists give me pain after ~150 miles or so, and I believe it's because of the angle of the stock bars. I.E. too much /--\. I feel that a straighter bar would relieve a lot of wrist pain. I have GenMar risers that came on the bike, but I feel that if I sat up just a bit more it'd be perfect. I don't have back pain as is, but I feel like I sit better on the seat when I can sit up a bit more. I like the idea of extra width and a place to clamp stuff in the middle. Thanks in advance, RD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFROr Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 I used these cables on my gen 6, about 2" longer than stock, just enough for no binding but not a surplus to manage, either. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustitution Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 So i did this the other weekend and I'm just about finished but my throttle tube just doesn't snap back does anyone have any recomendations to resolve this, or has any ever run into this? please and thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustitution Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Also I should say I have the slack and everything i need it just won't snap back on it own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer zupatun Posted August 12, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 12, 2015 You can try to adjust it at the throttle body but it is cramped. Are these stock or ST1100? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustitution Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 You can try to adjust it at the throttle body but it is cramped. Are these stock or ST1100? Stock cables with a Rental 755 styled bar, I'm thinking I'm pinched some where So I'm going to take it apart again and try to reroute them again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geforce Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Most time consuming part about this mod is adjustment so the wire does not get pinched. I used st1300 cables for this mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gozirra Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) Hard to tell what models everyone has and what the solution per model is. My VFR is an 04 (6th Gen).I have some back issues and longer rides become uncomfortable, making it hard for me to get into touring. I test rode a '13 vstrom and fell in love with the ergonomics. Unfortunately, I cannot afford one of those at the moment and I love the drivetrain of the Viffer. I've decided to put some money into the seat (Spencer mod) and handle bar to see if I can turn the bike into what I want. - To get as close as possible to the strom ergos, I think I'll need the Renthal 756 (high) bar. What should I plan to move/re-route to make these work and will I need different cables? Also, how does this bar and position (angle) compare to that of the strom or police VFRs (those seem very upright and comfortable)? Thanks in advance. Edited October 5, 2015 by Gozirra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geforce Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I have the 756 bar. You can also add upto 3-4 inches of spacer between your upper triple tree. It makes it extremely comfortable. Just so you know that out of the total time required to finish this project 40% is engineering stuff while 60% time would be spent just adjusting the handlebar etc to match the best place for you. Hard to tell what models everyone has and what the solution per model is. My VFR is an 04 (6th Gen).I have some back issues and longer rides become uncomfortable, making it hard for me to get into touring. I test rode a '13 vstrom and fell in love with the ergonomics. Unfortunately, I cannot afford one of those at the moment and I love the drivetrain of the Viffer. I've decided to put some money into the seat (Spencer mod) and handle bar to see if I can turn the bike into what I want. - To get as close as possible to the strom ergos, I think I'll need the Renthal 756 (high) bar. What should I plan to move/re-route to make these work and will I need different cables? Also, how does this bar and position (angle) compare to that of the strom or police VFRs (those seem very upright and comfortable)? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gozirra Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Sounds about right haha. Did you replace the cables? Got any pics? I have the 756 bar. You can also add upto 3-4 inches of spacer between your upper triple tree. It makes it extremely comfortable. Just so you know that out of the total time required to finish this project 40% is engineering stuff while 60% time would be spent just adjusting the handlebar etc to match the best place for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geforce Posted October 8, 2015 Share Posted October 8, 2015 i used new st1300 cables. I believe someone has had luck with honda shadow cables as well as they are even more longer than st1300, but dont quote me on that. I dont have pics of cables part on me. But I posted two photos above. you can see i routed the cables under the tank instead of under the frame as it originally existed. Sounds about right haha. Did you replace the cables? Got any pics? I have the 756 bar. You can also add upto 3-4 inches of spacer between your upper triple tree. It makes it extremely comfortable. Just so you know that out of the total time required to finish this project 40% is engineering stuff while 60% time would be spent just adjusting the handlebar etc to match the best place for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted November 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted November 4, 2015 Thinking of going for the Lsl kit with the higher superbike bars, does anyone know if it's the ST1100 or ST1300 cables that fit a 5th gen? I might consider fitting renthal 756 bars instead of the Lsl bars in the Lsl risers, I wonder if the 756 is much higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyT3 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Sorry to bring back alive an old post but......... What gauge assembly is this.. I am wanting to get something different for my 03 since im going to be using 08 to 11 cbr1000rr fairing on my bike and the gauge cluster is to wide to fit.. any info is greatly appreciated.. Thanks Here's a quick how-to on adding real handlebars to your VFR which opens one up to countless combinations of reach, pullback, height, etc. I've done this mod to two VFR's and one SuperHawk since seeing that my former Bandit1200S had basically an identical setup stock from the factory. Actually it had larger holes for big rubber dampners to help with a bad buzz at highway speeds.Although you can do the entire mod with the upper triple on the bike (I have), it's much easier in the long run to remove the fairing upper and the upper triple (referred to as the top bridge from here on) to give you more working room. Trust me. Here's what I have been using recently: TAG #4092 +5mm universal mounts, plus rubber spacers (probably from Lowes or somesuch), and lockwashers not included. NOTE: 4091 are standard height and 4093 are +10mm.Next, I drill the top bridge at the casting marks (how convenient) with an 1/2 inch drill bit. Old rubber inner tube around it to lessen scratches from the vice.Next, I add the mounts and bolt in the handlebar while it's still off the bike so I can cinch down the lock washers.Then I remove the bar and the top sections of the mounts (don't skip this step) and slide the top bridge back on the bike. Tightened down the main nut (30mm) then loosely add the throttle assembly and switch gear to the handle bar and loosely bolt the handlebar back again into the lower mounts.Add the fairing upper and start adjusting everything to fit from lock to lock. Depending on the bar specs you may need to reroute throttle cables, brake lines, and/or switchgear which this renthal 755 bar on the VTEC require all the above but nothing new/longer was needed.Here's a couple of shots showing the difference in bar bends I've been using. The renthal 755 (upper bar) was on the vtec while the "straight" drag bar (lower bar) I'm using on the 4Gen RCBVFR. Pretty significant difference as you can see. Note the holes drilled to lock in the switchgear.Here's a couple of comparison shots of a "daytona bend" (low rise) handlebar vs. stock clip ons on my old superhawk. This was the first bike I tried this mod on. The mounts on this one were very high (35mm) hence I got a flatter rise handlebar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted January 4, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2016 Thinking of going for the Lsl kit with the higher superbike bars, does anyone know if it's the ST1100 or ST1300 cables that fit a 5th gen? I might consider fitting renthal 756 bars instead of the Lsl bars in the Lsl risers, I wonder if the 756 is much higher. I installed a LSL kit. The new ST1100 cables I used on my 5th gen are too tight and rub on the inside of the right fairing... I need to re-drill the handlebar alignment hole and try to re-align so their is no interference. I would have liked to use slightly longer cables; the ST1100 are longer than stock 5th gen cables... I don't know if the ST1300 is a bit longer than the 1100. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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