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Vf1000r Rebuild


vfrcapn

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Just what I thought. Thanks. I am after every degree I can get. If you don't have 23 years on your R, you probably won't care, but I want it to turn like it has the whole 23 years I've had mine. Silly? Not to me. I went to alot of trouble to get it to sit right with the 51 forks so I'm not about to compromise the slow speed handling now. I know I could "get used to it" but I don't want to. I could get used to my toaster only browning one side but it's just not right. Old dog, new trick sort of thing I guess. At any rate, since I'm tearing into it, I decided to paint the whole thing again. Will put my RC45 tail on it this time. There's been some things naggin me that I can finally get to.

Kelly, step away from the grinder...seriously.

If you really can`t stand it maybe you should work on the frame instead of the forks, then weld a plate over the hole you make. Or, cut the steering stem off and reweld it along with more narrow upper frame tubes. I can`t see grinding the fork tubes down and compromising their integrity. Or better yet, make up a set of triples with the offset closer to the stock R that will fit the 51 forks.

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Just what I thought. Thanks. I am after every degree I can get. If you don't have 23 years on your R, you probably won't care, but I want it to turn like it has the whole 23 years I've had mine. Silly? Not to me. I went to alot of trouble to get it to sit right with the 51 forks so I'm not about to compromise the slow speed handling now. I know I could "get used to it" but I don't want to. I could get used to my toaster only browning one side but it's just not right. Old dog, new trick sort of thing I guess. At any rate, since I'm tearing into it, I decided to paint the whole thing again. Will put my RC45 tail on it this time. There's been some things naggin me that I can finally get to.

Kelly, step away from the grinder...seriously.

If you really can`t stand it maybe you should work on the frame instead of the forks, then weld a plate over the hole you make. Or, cut the steering stem off and reweld it along with more narrow upper frame tubes. I can`t see grinding the fork tubes down and compromising their integrity. Or better yet, make up a set of triples with the offset closer to the stock R that will fit the 51 forks.

I'm not anticipating a hole, just a little off the corner where the bracing comes up to meet the lower frame rails, but yes if there's a questionable hole, a plate for sure. And yes, the frame is my first plan of action. I may not even need to address the forks. The spot on the forks that is hitting is right on the sharp lip where the 54mm starts to taper to 50. All I would be doing is really just moving the taper down, say 10mm's. Making the widest part of the fork 13 1/4" long vs 13 5/8 long. Not much difference. Integrity is the same, the taper is just in a VERY slightly different place. In the grand scheme of the fork length, I truly don't see any issue. Again, it may not even come to that, and it is only 2mm's but if I need some more, I know I can get some there. I may not get to stock R lock but I want close. Besides, it's a custom, so digging in is half the fun. This bike is my daily driver and I know it will just bug me if it's not to my liking.

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Kel, Are you using the SP1 or SP2 forks? The SP2's taper lower down on the fork, can take a measurement if you need.

SP1 on left, SP2 middle.

forks2.jpg

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Nothing too radical, chopped the fender and smoothed the plastic so I could mount up the plate mount Seb sent me.

Trying to get some of the detail things done while waiting on my shock...

gallery_10340_3750_339496.jpg

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Nothing too radical, chopped the fender and smoothed the plastic so I could mount up the plate mount Seb sent me.

Trying to get some of the detail things done while waiting on my shock...

Looks good. Seb sent me one too and was wondering how it would look, definitely on the to do list.

I also swapped out the RC shock, this is from a GSXR, same dimensions as the RC shock, about .5" longer actually. The spring is 450lb, it will need to be changed out but that will be easier than on the RC shock. I believe the VFR shock is about an 800lb spring, I'm hoping something close to that will fit this shock body. Thomas, do you know what rate spring yours is being built with?

IMG_5374Medium.jpg

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Also made up a bracket for the caliper bracket. Would have preferred to cut it from one piece but my 55 year old 10" band saw wasn't up to the task.

IMG_5399Medium.jpg

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Humm, that two piece version looks suspiciously like the single piece machined caliper guide bracket I include with my kit! Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery I guess... or at least that's what I'm going to tell myself.

Nice work guys.

Also looks similar to the steel one I started making for my CB about 3 years ago..you sure you weren't snooping around sohc4.net... :dry: :unsure:

I obviously did see yours but other than attaching the torque arm I don't know that there are too many different ways to do it, this seemed to be the least involved route. I really wanted to flip it under the swingarm, maybe something to do later..

CB750, not mine but where I was headed before swapping in another swingarm.

SwingCU.JPG

Al is so much nicer to work with...

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Nice. Got a shot from the back?

What a reality check for me. I haven't mounted mine yet! :unsure:

Not too bad really. This shot is taken about plate level from 6-7 feet back and the lift is 7" when fully lowered. You can still read the numbers easily...if I would have left the plate on for the pic. Of course, that means the police can see it easily...need to perfect a hideaway plate mount...actually, I don`t like getting pulled for obvious stupid stuff(you wouldn`t believe the plates on some of the bikes here, stuffed up in front of the rear wheel, etc)

Seriously though, I`m not sure if I`ll bend it down slightly. Have to wait until I get it on the ground and see if I eventually like it or it bugs me. It`s a little higher than my Nighthawk S plate, dunno, we`ll see.

gallery_10340_3750_176021.jpg

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Um...should be able to see it from a plane anyway.

Yeah, you'd have to be an idiot to have your plate at that angle... :beer: :fing02:

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Ok, I give up. I had a little overtime $$ burning a hole in my pocket, got a white 900RR rear wheel on ebay for $75. I want to put a 180 Avon Storm on to match the front.

What front sprocket do I need, and are you guys running a Jamie-spec machined hub, or have you taken more off? Did some reading back through the thread and got my answers, Thanks... :rolleyes:

What are you guys doing for gearing to make up for the smaller rear? Seems like a much smaller(less teeth) rear sprocket is necessary, then the next thing is ride height. I've raised the forks in the trees 9mm already, but a 60 series rear would be ~2" shorter than the stock 130/80 combo... so I jack the rear of the bike up 2" how? And run what, 5 teeth less than stock to try to come close to stock gearing?

My goal was to end up with gearing similar to going -1 front, +1 rear on the stock bike.

TIA

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Ok, I give up. I had a little overtime $$ burning a hole in my pocket, got a white 900RR rear wheel on ebay for $75. I want to put a 180 Avon Storm on to match the front.

What front sprocket do I need, and are you guys running a Jamie-spec machined hub, or have you taken more off? Did some reading back through the thread and got my answers, Thanks... :mad:

What are you guys doing for gearing to make up for the smaller rear? Seems like a much smaller(less teeth) rear sprocket is necessary, then the next thing is ride height. I've raised the forks in the trees 9mm already, but a 60 series rear would be ~2" shorter than the stock 130/80 combo... so I jack the rear of the bike up 2" how? And run what, 5 teeth less than stock to try to come close to stock gearing?

My goal was to end up with gearing similar to going -1 front, +1 rear on the stock bike.

TIA

Welcome to the dark side.... :fing02:

What is the stock wheel for your 750? The 140/80 17 rear on the 1000R/F works out to 140*80=112mm section height. The 180/55 works to 99mm section height, so about .5" shorter. I added about 1" to my custom shock extension but the new Penske I picked up adds about .5" more. So I figure about 1.25" overall?

I haven't really considered the gearing, the front offset sprocket is the same # teeth, the rear I had laying around is 43 teeth, stock R bike is 44 I believe. I was going to try the 43 and switch out if necessary.

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Ok, I give up. I had a little overtime $$ burning a hole in my pocket, got a white 900RR rear wheel on ebay for $75. I want to put a 180 Avon Storm on to match the front.

What front sprocket do I need, and are you guys running a Jamie-spec machined hub, or have you taken more off? Did some reading back through the thread and got my answers, Thanks... :mad:

What are you guys doing for gearing to make up for the smaller rear? Seems like a much smaller(less teeth) rear sprocket is necessary, then the next thing is ride height. I've raised the forks in the trees 9mm already, but a 60 series rear would be ~2" shorter than the stock 130/80 combo... so I jack the rear of the bike up 2" how? And run what, 5 teeth less than stock to try to come close to stock gearing?

My goal was to end up with gearing similar to going -1 front, +1 rear on the stock bike.

TIA

Sell it and buy an F3 wheel. It's 5.0 wide and will take a 170. Plus, I don't think you'll have to offset the front sprocket at all but the chain will be close to the tire. You won't notice the difference between the 180 and 170 visually. Might work better for the 750's?

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Stock wheel for the 750 is 130/80V18. I have an F2 wheel in there now with a 160/70, and I think it looks like a truck tire:

However, if I'm going with a wider tire, I want the wheel to match. I want the handling and the looks!!

I talked to Tom briefly yesterday, he reminded me that the 750 frame is smaller, and that you guys are already running the chain kinda close to the frame... I mighta bought that wheel too soon!! :mad:

Don`t know for sure without trying it Seb, but it seems to me that the frame might be a bit smaller yes. I`ve been randomly thinking(funny that) that when I put an R motor in my 1000F frame I may put the F motor in the 750 frame...maybe, random thoughts like I said.

Anyway, the swingarms are probably the same between the 1000 and the 750, but it`s the lower chain run which is where clearance may be an issue. Looking at both the 1000 and 750 frames, it looks like you could have enough clearance for 5mm offset on the sprocket, doubt you could go much more. This is no measurements, just eyeballing. When you get the wheel, space the countershaft sprocket out the 5mm and use your F2 hub on the 5.5" wheel to see how the spacing may line up for you, and space the hub/rear wheel like we are doing on the larger bikes as a starting point and go from there.

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Fresh from the box

gallery_10340_3750_10625.jpg

1/2" longer than stock and 2 full turns on preload from standard setting give me about 25mm sag and the stance I want.

gallery_10340_3750_866020.jpg

Reservoir here for now.

gallery_10340_3750_746238.jpg

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I`ll make it pretty after I get everything engineered right. I`ve taken it around the block gingerly since at that time I had spacers behind the countershaft sprocket, didn`t want to dump the engine oil all over the rear wheel...again. If it`s anything like my R, it should be much better than stock. Not enough to tell yet. Hopefully will take a shakedown run or two this weekend. Several things left to do. The clutch release bracket I got from Winning-Run in Japan(www.winning-run.com). I`d like to have it copied and several more sets made up, haven`t researched it to see if it`s cost effective yet. Not cheap either way, but I need a couple more myself so maybe. I found a cable to use from Motion Pro. Longer than stock and different, the stocker won`t work. Also need the speedo pickup from a RC30 to make it work, like I said, not cheap if you decide to do it.

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Capn,

Last I heard, your block was "unfixable".

Mwdaug still has a VF1000R engine, complete, on Ebay. Just letting you know, if interested.

BTW, if you do scrap your present engine, I need a starter.

Thanks and good luck,

Larry

VFRrider

I was thinking of stuffing my R motor in the F. I did get a couple leads on F cases, Thomas linked me up with one for cheap but the seller can't ship them until Sept. I talked to Mwdaug about his motor but it's got 50K miles and he says pick up only, no ship. I'm halfway tempted to just buy his bike on eBay with the Dave Dodge motor and call it done. :fing02: Auction ends in 2 hours and it's a bargain at that price imho. :fing02:

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The clutch release bracket I got from Winning-Run in Japan(www.winning-run.com). I`d like to have it copied and several more sets made up, haven`t researched it to see if it`s cost effective yet. Not cheap either way, but I need a couple more myself so maybe. I found a cable to use from Motion Pro. Longer than stock and different, the stocker won`t work. Also need the speedo pickup from a RC30 to make it work, like I said, not cheap if you decide to do it.

I don't have one in the garage anymore but the speedo pickup from the 3rd gen VFR looked like it would mount up, going from memory here..May be the same part # as the RC30..

Winning-Run in Japan: Nice stuff, wish I read Japanese!

http://www.winning-run.com/gallery-vf1000r(1)-index.html

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All that nice machine work, you think they could afford a new chain. :fing02:

IMGP0039.JPG

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Well, if you can do a much better job, Burns Stainless has all the pieces, albeit in SS, to make your own. I was leaning towards that way myself. Wanna make a RC211V type system for the VF1KR motor for me, cheap, that is?

Larry

VFrrider

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Well, if you can do a much better job, Burns Stainless has all the pieces, albeit in SS, to make your own. I was leaning towards that way myself. Wanna make a RC211V type system for the VF1KR motor for me, cheap, that is?

Larry

VFrrider

Sure, buy me a TIG welder, and I'll make you 2!! :huh:

I said I could make them better because we have argon chambers at work in our fusion weld area. To properly weld titanium, it has to be fused in an oxygen-free environment. I can tell by the discoloration around the welds that oxygen was present when those pipes were welded, which means the welds are contaminated and susceptible to cracking.

Welding stainless is cake! But until I scrape up the $1900 I need for the Thermal Arc welder I want, there will be no TIG welding at my house. sad.gif Right now I have a crappy little wire feed unit, and my big TIG unit at work.

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All that nice machine work, you think they could afford a new chain. :unsure:

IMGP0039.JPG

OOF! That's borked! :blink:

Some nice stuff on that site, but then you see that chain, and things like this (check out the fuel tank):

IMGP0747.JPG

Thomas, did you have a shop machine your Speedo pickup/clutch release bracket? Any chance they have the specs stored and could CNC out another one or two? Any issue with the length of the speedo cable reaching the pickup?

Here's the direct link to the page with the brackets: http://www.winning-run.com/plate.html

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I`d like to have it copied and several more sets made up, haven`t researched it to see if it`s cost effective yet. Not cheap either way, but I need a couple more myself so maybe.

As I mentioned to Tom once, we have a LaserQC scanning tool at work, and could reverse engineer this bracket.

I also, just recently(last week) got a local CNC contact.

Tom, if you ever have that bracket off the bike, can you snap some pics of it, maybe with a tape measure in the background, then I could pay this guy a visit and ask for a quote. That quote would be based on me providing him with, at minimum, a 3D CAD file or maybe even a Surfcam file with g-code if his machine's processor will accept that format. If it does, we're in for materials + setup time! :unsure:

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Thomas, did you have a shop machine your Speedo pickup/clutch release bracket? Any chance they have the specs stored and could CNC out another one or two? Any issue with the length of the speedo cable reaching the pickup?

Here's the direct link to the page with the brackets: http://www.winning-run.com/plate.html

Thanks Rob-san! Works out to about $196 if I'm reading that right, 21K Yen. I bought an all in one digital tach/speedo for my CB that ran about the same iirc, but it has a wired pickup and sensor for the front wheel, same style as a bicycle computer, not the most elegant or accurate device. The unit itself would fit nicely in place of the stock speedo with a bevel around it. This could be a viable alternative.

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I`ll provide whatever is necessary, including the bracket itself as Seb and I have talked about at a previous time.

Jamie, if you can make this for that price, I`m sure you could sell a few, however, I`m sure we could work something out...I need 3...

As far as the bracket itself goes, it`s actually 2 brackets that bolt together and 5 spacers. There is also a brass or bronze bushing insert that the shifter shaft rotates in.

I need to do some test runs on this bike before I start tearing it down though. If all works out, a good time may be when I send the spare frame and the wheels for powdercoat...

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