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Shim Your Shock


HispanicSlammer

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  • Forum CEO

How do you make a shim? You can buy autobody shims or make your own out of large washers, you just need a slot to fit around the shock bolt.

use a hacksaw to cut a slot into the washer, I am seen here using my vise as a guide for the saw.

shim1.JPG

measure and label the shims so you can record the effects each has, use them together even.

shim2.JPG

Move the gas tank out of the way and loosen the shock bolt but do not remove, just make room for your shim (17mm nut on the 98vfr)

shim3.JPG

Carfully place the shim between the shock housing and the top of the frame then tighten the bolt down, this takes some nimble fingers.

shim4.JPG

I only use one shim that is aprox 2mm it works good and my bike does not lag thru corners anymore, turns just right for me!

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  • 1 year later...
Guest VFRrider800
Slammer, I'm doing this to my 98 on my next day off. The question was (sorry if this is obvious :goof: ) did you have the bike on the center or side stand?
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  • Forum CEO
I used to have the bike shimmed I took them out, It flicks better without the shims. ?I just lowered the front about 5mm instead same effect lower center of gravity. ?I did that shim a long time ago, it still a good solution for guys who cant seem to stop scraping hardparts and need more clearance.
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Instead of cutting up washers, you can make it easier by using steel auto body shims as sold in auto supply stores. They are "U" shaped steel shims that comes in a pack of differing thickness. I've had a couple stacked on my shock and have had no problems with them in the last three years of riding. I installed them with the open end of the "U" pointing to the rear of the bike. I don't think it makes any difference cause the shock retaining bolt is spec'd to be torqued down pretty tight anyway. I do check them once in a while to make sure that they are secure. I might eventually drill the ends of the U and string some saftey wire across the legs to make sure they never fall off the shock mount this summer.

Beck

95 VFR

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  • 1 year later...
  • Member Contributer
I think older post have pics deleated to save site space ???  This post is from 2002 !

:beer:

I have never seen shims, so I was hoping to see one and how they are used etc.

Is there 1 kind of shim for VFR's for multiple places or many kinds of shims?

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I have never seen shims, so I was hoping to see one and how they are used etc.

Is there 1 kind of shim for VFR's for multiple places or many kinds of shims?

A steel flat washer can be a shin, nothing special ! Using washers or shims with a hole in them requires you to remove the bolt to get them on. As mentioned by Beck here, you can just loosen the top nut and slide in the U shaped body shims availible from most auto parts stores.

AS HS mentioned you could slide your fork tubes up in the trees 5mm instead. :thumbsup:

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  • Member Contributer
A steel flat washer can be a shin, nothing special !  Using washers or shims with a hole in them requires you to remove the bolt to get them on. As mentioned by Beck here, you can just loosen the top nut and slide in the U shaped body shims availible from most auto parts stores.

AS HS mentioned you could slide your fork tubes up in the trees 5mm instead. :thumbsup:

Thanks. I have used washers as spacers etc in other things. I just assumed that these had part numbers etc.

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I have never seen shims, so I was hoping to see one and how they are used etc.

Is there 1 kind of shim for VFR's for multiple places or many kinds of shims?

Shim is simply another term for 'spacer'. If you've ever placed a folded cardboard coaster under a table leg to level the table, then you have 'shimmed' the table.

Shims are also used as part of the valve clearance adjustment for gear-driven VFRs - in this case they are simply a small metal disc cut to a specific thickness and marked as such.

The shim that works best on the VFR shock is a simple U-shape used for adjusting camber on cars, as per this:

http://www.cliphouse.com/ImagesProducts/PSN116-T.gif

Just ask your local car tyre dealer for two or three, probably won't even charge you if he knows you.

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You could go to an autoparts store too. They might want an application, so just tell them it's for an early 90's Chevrolet Astro van or full size van, which uses shim adjustments for the camber/caster. They'll be cheap, and hopefully can be obtained individually instead of in a pack.

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  • 2 years later...
Guest Pete McCrary

Another solution is to go ahead and spring for a Penske which has an adjustable length and you can fine tune the rear ride height to suit your personal perference.

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i think it important to note, that the thickness of the washer doubles the washers thickness at the rear of the bike. one or two washers wouldn't make a lot of difference. however: raising the front fork tubes 5mm (geometry wise) would be a very BIG difference. turn in would be more of a thought process than pushing and pulling on the bars.

the other part that bothers me besides the shims falling out, the mating surface of the shim (slotted steel) bolted tightly against aluminum? :offtopic:

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i think it important to note, that the thickness of the washer doubles the washers thickness at the rear of the bike. one or two washers wouldn't make a lot of difference. however: raising the front fork tubes 5mm (geometry wise) would be a very BIG difference.

Meh.

I forgot I'd raised the fork tubes already, and did it again, ending up with a total of 14mm.

Oops...

And I shimmed the rear shock as well, by 5mm.

It handled fiiiine!

But it's better now, with my overlength Elka (effectively shimmed more than 5mm), and about 1mm on the front.

the other part that bothers me besides the shims falling out, the mating surface of the shim (slotted steel) bolted tightly against aluminum? :blink:

I used a piece cut out of an aluminum heatsink, which happened to be 5mm or so thick, and right-angled. This allowed me to hold onto it while putting the slotted bit in, and also that helped to hold it in place while tightening the bolt. Plus it was nicely painted!

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