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Vfr750 Titanium Rear Brake Disc!


Veefer800Canuck

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VfrOEM is probably the only guy who would buy one of these, they're $250 apiece!

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=H024T

I'd have bought one, if I'd seen this in 2001. Back then Yoyodyne didn't have any sad.gif Oh well...I got some tasty Brembo radial master cylinders and a super-trick brake light switch gizmo from them (back in 2001, and only just put them on a month ago!).

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VfrOEM is probably the only guy who would buy one of these, they're $250 apiece!

http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=H024T

I'd have bought one, if I'd seen this in 2001. Back then Yoyodyne didn't have any sad.gif Oh well...I got some tasty Brembo radial master cylinders and a super-trick brake light switch gizmo from them (back in 2001, and only just put them on a month ago!).

Yes, you have to age fine equipment like wine before you install them.

Note: some exotic metals actually degrade with age. Magnesium is one that does. You are not advised to use older magnesium wheels because of this. I don't think that this is the same for Titanium though.

Beck

95VFR

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Trivia question - Anybody remember the movie that uses the company name Yoyodyne? Starring Robocop & Doc.

Bukaroo Banzai ?

I actually watched it recently (again). Dated, but still amusing.

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Note: some exotic metals actually degrade with age. Magnesium is one that does. You are not advised to use older magnesium wheels because of this. I don't think that this is the same for Titanium though.

Oxidation, fatigue, or something else? I'm not aware of any reason that a mag part that's been protected on the shelf for many years would be any weaker than a new part of the same construction. What other metals are you thinking of?

I doubt Ti is a good material for brake rotors, but it may be OK for a little-used rear brake. I've even heard of aluminum rear rotors being fit, but man, I bet you'd burn through them in a hurry.

Here's some info from:

Introduction to Gray Cast Iron Brake Rotor Metallurgy

Mark Ihm, TRW Automotive

Properties Desired for Brake Rotors

• High strength and durability to sustain torque loads from braking

• Stable mechanical and frictional properties through range of

expected service temperatures

• High wear resistance through range of expected service

temperatures

• High heat absorption capability to absorb braking energy

• High thermal conductivity to transport frictional heat away from

braking surfaces

• High vibration damping capacity to minimize NVH issues

• Minimal thermal expansion to minimize performance variability

• High degree of corrosion resistance

• Excellent machinability

• Inexpensive material and processing costs

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Note: some exotic metals actually degrade with age. Magnesium is one that does. You are not advised to use older magnesium wheels because of this. I don't think that this is the same for Titanium though.

Oxidation, fatigue, or something else? I'm not aware of any reason that a mag part that's been protected on the shelf for many years would be any weaker than a new part of the same construction. What other metals are you thinking of?

I doubt Ti is a good material for brake rotors, but it may be OK for a little-used rear brake. I've even heard of aluminum rear rotors being fit, but man, I bet you'd burn through them in a hurry.

Here's some info from:

Introduction to Gray Cast Iron Brake Rotor Metallurgy

Mark Ihm, TRW Automotive

Properties Desired for Brake Rotors

• High strength and durability to sustain torque loads from braking

• Stable mechanical and frictional properties through range of

expected service temperatures

• High wear resistance through range of expected service

temperatures

• High heat absorption capability to absorb braking energy

• High thermal conductivity to transport frictional heat away from

braking surfaces

• High vibration damping capacity to minimize NVH issues

• Minimal thermal expansion to minimize performance variability

• High degree of corrosion resistance

• Excellent machinability

• Inexpensive material and processing costs

It's really magnesium's poor corrosion resistance and fatigue life that ages it quickly with use and just regular exposure to the elements.

Here's an excerpt from Blackstone wheel's "Tek" page:

http://www.blackstonetek.com/faq.php

(Quote:)

Q: How does Carbon fiber compare with Magnesium and Aluminium alloys?

A: Wheels manufactured from metal are either cast, forged, machined, or manufactured as a combination of the three processes. Aluminium wheels have been around for many years. They are relatively easy to manufacture and also relatively cheap, but they are heavy because of the density to strength ratio of Aluminium (how much strength you can get for a kilogram of Aluminium). To improve the weight you can either choose a material that is lighter or one that is stronger, or one that is lighter and stronger. Using magnesium, which is lighter but not necessarily stronger, you can improve on weight slightly.

The problem with magnesium is two fold: first - its fatigue properties are poor and so are the corrosion properties, so a wheel may not last very long even if perfectly cast and machined. The second problem is worse - very often micro-porosity occurs during the casting process, which has a negative impact on both fatigue life and corrosion. So magnesium wheels can be nice and light but may not last very long, sometimes less than a racing season. This makes magnesium wheels good for racing but unattractive to the man in the street. The only solution is to find a material that is lighter, stronger, fatigue free and corrosion free - Carbon fiber. As an engineering material, carbon fiber is far superior to Magnesium or Aluminium alloys.

(End quote.)

So as explained, once corrosion takes hold in any way on a mag wheel, it tends to go wild and destroy wheels or any other structural mag component in short time. That's why a lot of racers would dispose or take mag wheels out of service after a set legnth of time (much shorter time than aluminum wheels) in use.

My uncle found out about mag wheel deterioration the hard way when he had to replace the four expensive Halibrand wheels on his vintage 1966 Cobra 427 a couple of years ago. A collector car that what pampered most of it's life and most likely never even been driven in any wet conditions. The moisture from the atmosphere actually rotted the wheels to the point that they started cracking and breaking up. This process could be accelerated on regular street vehicles that encounter harsher conditions.

Beck

95 VFR

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"The problem with magnesium is two fold: first - its fatigue properties are poor and so are the corrosion properties..."

So as explained, once corrosion takes hold in any way on a mag wheel, it tends to go wild and destroy wheels or any other structural mag component in short time. That's why a lot of racers would dispose or take mag wheels out of service after a set legnth of time (much shorter time than aluminum wheels) in use.

Yeah, that was pretty much my understanding. Good for race wheels, generally not so good for the street. Race wheels are not expected to last over potholes, being run with a flat tire, etc. Infinite life of structural components is not necessarily expected, either. I've also read that Mag wheels have been banned in certain classes since if a tire blows, the rim scraping on the asphalt can start a fire which is difficult to extinguish.

My uncle found out about mag wheel deterioration the hard way when he had to replace the four expensive Halibrand wheels on his vintage 1966 Cobra 427 a couple of years ago. A collector car that what pampered most of it's life and most likely never even been driven in any wet conditions. The moisture from the atmosphere actually rotted the wheels to the point that they started cracking and breaking up. This process could be accelerated on regular street vehicles that encounter harsher conditions.

A real Cobra, sweet! Those wheels should probably have been removed and stored in sealed baggies with desiccant. I know you're supposed to insulate the Mag from the steel hub, with an aluminum or plastic spacer.

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