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Replace Stator And Flywheel - How To With Pics


Guest talus

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  • 1 month later...

First off, excellent post!! Secondly, I made the big mistake of losing my guide for the stator harness connector going through the V. Now I'm having to try to rethread a wire back through in order to connect it on the other side. Would it help if I disconnected the coolant hose on the right side for more room and visibility?

Again, excellent post!

Edited by 2003vfr
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  • Member Contributer

First off, excellent post!! Secondly, I made the big mistake of losing my guide for the stator harness connector going through the V. Now I'm having to try to rethread a wire back through in order to connect it on the other side. Would it help if I disconnected the coolant hose on the right side for more room and visibility?

Again, excellent post!

I did the same on my stator replacement over the winter. I have some 24" long zip ties I got at Harbor Freight. IIRC I got a pack of 10 for under $2. They're long enough and just rigid enough while still being flexible to be able to fish one through to the other side. Once it came out I tied the wire to the zip tie and pulled it through. I wasn't using the factory connector though, so I might have gotten it through where otherwise you would not.

Interestingly, in the 6th gen FSM it does not specify removing anything to remove the wire, however the installation instructions say "replace the throttle body", so apparently Honda intends for that to be removed to replace the stator. I doubt many ever remove the TB to get the wire across, but if you really get stuck that's what you may end up doing.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello everyone,

haven't been posting much as my motorcycle has been off road last year or so, mainly because of stator.

I've just managed to put in a new stator from Ricks and out of curiosity did the test between three wires, after connecting the stator to the cover which fits on the bike. The readings are around 0.6 ohms as expected(between 0.5 and 2 ohms).

But when I did other test between each of the three wires and engine case, though not fit on motorcycle yet, to my surprise it doesn't show 'OL' or '1' 'no reading(i.e. blank)'.

Should I assume that the new stator is faulty already? Is there any other way of checking that the new stator would work as expected :( or show 'OL' type of reading ?

Any help would be a blessing as after all the waiting and just a day away from fitting the stator on the motorcycle, I would rather find out that stator is faulty already and that I shouldn't be putting it on the bike.

Thanks a lot

GJ

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You shouldn't have continuity between the three legs & ground so that is correct

That is correct, meaning stator is faulty ?

It show very tiny readings in ohms, 0.06, 0.06 and 0.04.

Sorry to ask further questions, but I hope you'll know what the feeling is right now when I find out that after waiting and getting a new stator it is faulty.

Something very strange has happened...

Just out of curiosity I was trying to figure out if there was a cut or scrap on the windings which is why there was continuity? and only thing I found was the clamp holding the wires down and on the side of the casing was bit too tight on the wires where they go in to triangular rubber gromet.

So just twisted the clamp a bit to loosen the three wires which were almost getting cut off by clamp, and there we go all sorted.

Now I check the continuity between the casing and three leads, and there is no reading.

Just worried though, I don't want it to happen once I fit it all on the bike.

Thanks TNRabbit for a quick response, did make me feel better when someone replied.

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  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer

I recently had my stator go with close to 50k kmh on my 07. After searching around for options I thought I'd try Custom Rewind and I'm quite happy I did.

All three stator segments were going to ground and they were all reading around .5 ohms. On run up at idle two of the three were only around 10v AC, one was around 20v AC. Not much of a change at 5k rpm.

post-12786-0-54551800-1434578540.jpg

I called CR and spoke with Kirk who quoted me $100 for a full rebuild with whatever mods they do to make it run cooler. I mailed it on June 3rd, it arrived Friday the 6th, they had it done and mailed on the following Tuesday. Kirk made of point of telling me that they would get it done quick as a bike sitting in the garage in the summer is no good, that's awesome! I picked it up this morning and got this:

post-12786-0-90909500-1434578573.jpg

I was very happy with the end product, looked quite nice.

Install went fine, feeding the cable on removal was much more difficult than feeding it back through on install. I did build up the end of the connector with tape to form a tapered end so when pulling it through it wouldn't catch on anything. I should say that all my connectors looked excellent, no signs of burning, melting or corrosion so all I did was re and re the stator. End result:

post-12786-0-31762900-1434578588.jpg

I'm very happy knowing that the install isn't too hard and that for only $100 there's a hope that it will be a good product. Kirk at Custom Rewind was a super guy, very patient and helpful.

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Looks Good! Thats a great price & excellent service. Glad to see you are still around!

Gary

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  • 7 months later...

After going through many batteries (including a borrowed Li battery, $$$ ouch), and a few regular rectifiers, I've come to the conclusion that stator might be bad. A buddy who is a wiz on electrics confirmed this today, so I need to replace my 1997 VFR750 stator. I'm catching up on this topic and learned the OEM part is history. So its either an aftermarket or a rebuilt unit.

This post (fantastic, by the way) is not really clear on either/or, so I'm asking: for a cheap S.O.B. like me what should I look into?

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  • 2 months later...

Guys, my stator just died; and I need to choose one fast.. I see on ebay some Chinese ones are really cheap, like $45..

And there are other merchants that sell it for $150.

Which one should I go for? Does anyone have any experience with the Chinese ones?

Many thanks, -tk

Edited by turgut kalfaoglu
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Guys, my stator just died; and I need to choose one fast.. I see on ebay some Chinese ones are really cheap, like $45..

And there are other merchants that sell it for $150.

Which one should I go for? Does anyone have any experience with the Chinese ones?

Many thanks, -tk

Personally I would not skimp on spending money on the stator, I would go OEM, then send your original stator and have it rewound. This is the route I went, spent $100 on the rewind with Custom Rewind in Alabama. Just got it back yesterday.

For discounted pricing on OEM check out www.partzilla.com or Mason City Honda (I think there is a link on the forum).

Guys, my stator just died; and I need to choose one fast.. I see on ebay some Chinese ones are really cheap, like $45..

And there are other merchants that sell it for $150.

Which one should I go for? Does anyone have any experience with the Chinese ones?

Many thanks, -tk

Personally I would not skimp on spending money on the stator, I would go OEM, then send your original stator and have it rewound. This is the route I went, spent $100 on the rewind with Custom Rewind in Alabama. Just got it back yesterday.

For discounted pricing on OEM check out www.partzilla.com or Mason City Honda (I think there is a link on the forum).

Edit: Just noticed you're location, I'm sure there are other discount places to buy OEM parts, hopefully someone on the European continent will have a resource for you.

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  • 1 year later...

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