Member Contributer JZH Posted August 31, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted August 31, 2012 2 wire - is a little complicated. two options 1) Direct from power source. So tap into any of the "GREEN" wires (powered wire - comes on when you switch the bike) on the bike. I had taped into the Flasher green wire(or into the brake light green wire). so the RED from the voltmeter will go to the "GREEN" . "BLACK" from the Voltmeter to ground (to body of the bike). The only problem is that there will be a voltage difference as this power is routed thru. So you should get a Direct source (BATTERY). That is why the 3 wire ones are good. Better-late-than-never response (I blame the search function!): But, on Hondas, green wires are generally ground wires... Did Honda throw out their longstanding wiring system with the VTEC? I don't think so. See: HondaWireColors Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted January 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2013 Wiring wise, I started with a relay switched off/on from power from the taillight but ended up ditching it. Just went with a basic rocker under the seat.Now I can check the battery before I click on the key and power to the bike. I'm about to wire up my VM and thought of doing it similar to you with a simple on/off switch with a 2 wire VM. If I can find a half decent waterproof switch, does anyone have a good idea of where to mount it (without drilling holes)? Also, the VM I got has a range of 4.5-30V with a consumption of 5-20mA... fuse options? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted January 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2013 Wiring wise, I started with a relay switched off/on from power from the taillight but ended up ditching it. Just went with a basic rocker under the seat.Now I can check the battery before I click on the key and power to the bike. I'm about to wire up my VM and thought of doing it similar to you with a simple on/off switch with a 2 wire VM. If I can find a half decent waterproof switch, does anyone have a good idea of where to mount it (without drilling holes)? Also, the VM I got has a range of 4.5-30V with a consumption of 5-20mA... fuse options? I did a small toggle switch on the dash. Although I used the right hand side, I later changed it to the left due to the fuse box being under the right upper cowl. Here's the post I started...http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70328-toggle-switch-install-with-no-drilling-through-fairing/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer The mailman Posted January 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2013 I had a very similar LCD style C-Volt meter mounted in the same place as the original poster. That meter was just hard wired to the battery for over EIGHT YEARS! No relays or switches are needed for something that draws that light of a load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer LangoPTC Posted July 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 22, 2014 Hi all, Not sure if this has been tried before but here is my idea for mounting a Lascar voltmeter and SDC idiot light in conjunction with a ram mount for my GPS (GPS will be pretty much horizontal when installed). Basically it is just a 3" X 3.25" piece of plastic (old DVD case) sandwiched between the GPS cradle and the diamond base of the RAM arm (GPS is mounted via tank bolts with a standard RAM arm). Not sure if vibration will be an issue given that there is no support at bottom of plastic but we shall see. The voltmeter and light will be wired to one of Tightwad's accessory fuse panels. Now here are my questions given my limited (ok, non-existent) knowledge of all things electrical... I'm assuming I can wire the positives from both units together (literally) and connect to an 18 gauge wire and run to the fuse panel with a 2 amp fuse at the panel? Can I wire both grounds together and connect to an 18 gauge wire and connect to the nearest ground or do I need to run a separate ground for each unit? The voltmeter came with a diode. Do I need to wire that in or is that for instances when the voltmeter is direct wired to the battery (i.e. does the fact that I am wiring this to the fuse panel negate the need for the diode)? Thanks for any insight (or suggestions) anyone can provide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer LangoPTC Posted July 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 29, 2014 OK here is the finished product on the bike along with a pic of the installed dual USB port which is an idea I stole from Havagan (if I remember correctly...). I ended up wiring the usb and the two voltmeters on a single circuit to a 5 amp fuse in the VFRness accessory fuse panel. Vibration does not seem to be an issue with the plastic panel. If I had to do over I would consider mounting the voltmeters above the GPS so it would be more in field of vision but not sure there is room if handlebars are at full lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turgut kalfaoglu Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I think I'd like an amp meter at the same time; so I can see if something is starting to draw too much current from the battery.. Does that make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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