spud786 Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I really need to try this one day on my 75k mile 02! Good write-up btw! ps my manoneter has lost all it's fluid, whats a decent replacement? BR Add in my 83,000 mile o6, if it aint broke dont fix it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted February 23, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted February 23, 2011 smoother idling and cleaner pick up. sounds better too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted July 2, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted July 2, 2011 Hey folks, I made a video on synchronising the starter valves. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Good Job on your Video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Arno71 Posted July 2, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted July 2, 2011 A welcome video, nice work!! Because of this video I also noticed your other creations (VFR & F-16) related which are worth to watch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer spaceman Posted July 2, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted July 2, 2011 That is an excellent video! Can't thank you enough for taking the time to video and post it. Much appreciated. Is it always the right front on all 6th gen bikes that is non-adjustable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted July 2, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted July 2, 2011 Yep always right front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 Kal... Nice vid!! Completely unrelated but... what does the little toggle switch on the LHS black inner fairing you've installed do??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted August 2, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted August 2, 2011 Kal... Nice vid!! Completely unrelated but... what does the little toggle switch on the LHS black inner fairing you've installed do??? Heh you have eyes like a hawk dontcha! It's my Autotune/map switch for the PCV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sunbugone Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Thanks for the Video and instructions! I did this procedure tonight and everything seemed to go ok. I had 1 issue though, the idle would not adjust during the starter valve adjustment procedure. Anyone have this problem? The idle would adjust fine once everything was connected and put back together but would not with the MAP, vacuum hoses, air box disconnected. Thoughts?? Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted September 3, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2011 I had 1 issue though, the idle would not adjust during the starter valve adjustment procedure. Anyone have this problem? The idle would adjust fine once everything was connected and put back together but would not with the MAP, vacuum hoses, air box disconnected. Thoughts?? Never seen that before. When you were adjusting the screw could you see the pistons moving at all, or even the idle adjustment plate move? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 3, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2011 I had 1 issue though, the idle would not adjust during the starter valve adjustment procedure. Anyone have this problem? The idle would adjust fine once everything was connected and put back together but would not with the MAP, vacuum hoses, air box disconnected. Thoughts?? Never seen that before. When you were adjusting the screw could you see the pistons moving at all, or even the idle adjustment plate move? Make sure your base line cylinder which I think is #3 is at its preliminary setting. Had the same problem when I did mine thefirst time. Its was supposed to be lock tite to a factory value. It was not and vibrated to different setting. Drove me crazy for about 15 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sunbugone Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Never seen that before. When you were adjusting the screw could you see the pistons moving at all, or even the idle adjustment plate move? Make sure your base line cylinder which I think is #3 is at its preliminary setting. Had the same problem when I did mine thefirst time. Its was supposed to be lock tite to a factory value. It was not and vibrated to different setting. Drove me crazy for about 15 minutes. Everything worked as it should when I turned the adjustment knob. You could even hear a change in the throttle bodies (Hissing noise) as I turned the knob back and forth, but there was no change in idle speed. It just hovered around 1000-1100 rpm and didn't change when turning the knob. Once everything was connected the adjustment knob worked. Switchblade, are you saying the the "non adjustable" valve is actually adjustable?? I just adjusted them to 19Hg across the board, put everything back together and adjusted the idle up a bit from there. Two of the cylinders were way off (10 and 15). I only drove it around the block late last night so I don't know if there is any drastic change. This bike has always had a horrible surge and a really jerky throttle response. Been that way since new, maybe I have something else wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted September 3, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2011 +1 Everything worked as it should when I turned the adjustment knob. You could even hear a change in the throttle bodies (Hissing noise) as I turned the knob back and forth, but there was no change in idle speed. It just hovered around 1000-1100 rpm and didn't change when turning the knob. Once everything was connected the adjustment knob worked. Switchblade, are you saying the the "non adjustable" valve is actually adjustable?? I just adjusted them to 19Hg across the board, put everything back together and adjusted the idle up a bit from there. Two of the cylinders were way off (10 and 15). I only drove it around the block late last night so I don't know if there is any drastic change. This bike has always had a horrible surge and a really jerky throttle response. Been that way since new, maybe I have something else wrong Locktite #3 in at what ever the book tells you to and set the other three to the same value and that solve all throttle problems !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Friend of mine has performed this procedure recently on his 2006-on VTEC... Since then, it backfires and in fact, even though he manages to get all valves in synch, the values he gets are low (14 mm/hg) and they are usually around double that I think. What could it be? Are the two tubes that conect to a brown two-way connector on the RHS of the air-filter box to go in a certain order? What happens if you put them back on switched around? He can't find anything out of place so we are wondering if the 2006-on models have anything different to keep in mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted February 25, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 25, 2012 Friend of mine has performed this procedure recently on his 2006-on VTEC... Since then, it backfires and in fact, even though he manages to get all valves in synch, the values he gets are low (14 mm/hg) and they are usually around double that I think. What could it be? Are the two tubes that conect to a brown two-way connector on the RHS of the air-filter box to go in a certain order? What happens if you put them back on switched around? He can't find anything out of place so we are wondering if the 2006-on models have anything different to keep in mind... He's probably disconnected another vacuum hose accidentally, probably the fuel pressure regulator hose. It connects to the two right-hand side cylinders so he's probably tried to sync the bike to cylinder #4 when that was already out of whack. There's also the flapper valve vacuum hose on the front left cylinder, and if it's a US-model bike with the evap cannister it has an extra vacuum line again for ALL the cylinders which can also be accidentally disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Friend of mine has performed this procedure recently on his 2006-on VTEC... Since then, it backfires and in fact, even though he manages to get all valves in synch, the values he gets are low (14 mm/hg) and they are usually around double that I think. What could it be? Are the two tubes that conect to a brown two-way connector on the RHS of the air-filter box to go in a certain order? What happens if you put them back on switched around? He can't find anything out of place so we are wondering if the 2006-on models have anything different to keep in mind... He's probably disconnected another vacuum hose accidentally, probably the fuel pressure regulator hose. It connects to the two right-hand side cylinders so he's probably tried to sync the bike to cylinder #4 when that was already out of whack. There's also the flapper valve vacuum hose on the front left cylinder, and if it's a US-model bike with the evap cannister it has an extra vacuum line again for ALL the cylinders which can also be accidentally disconnected. Gracias Kal... I'll translate that into Spanish for my fellow Spanish Club member and pass the message on to him... I'm also sending him my carbtune so he can contrast the readings... just in case his carbtune has some sort of blockage or failure (leak or not sealing right or maybe the little plastic cylinders that are moved up and down within the unit are not sliding properly due to dust or something inside... Will post up any news as we discover it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Well it would appear that going over all the tubes and connectors for the nth time, the problem has been found... the idle adjuster cable was almost completely sheered through and a part that was sticking out was getting stuck as it rotated so... he could adjust the idle higher as it dropped while sinchronizing... Part has been ordered and as soon as it's installed we'll know if that's all she wrote... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soichiro Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Hey folks, I made a video on synchronising the starter valves. Awesome video! I have 73k miles and have never done mine. My flat spot at 4-5k rpm has gotten worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted October 29, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted October 29, 2013 Gotta book mark this one as it's another useful how-to! Thanks for posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted April 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted April 30, 2014 I am in the process of doing the sync now and can't get idle to rise above 10.5K RPM. At its highest, I can hear quite a bit of air being sucked into the starter valve openings. If I turn the idle screw down, the hissing stops (almost) and the readings on the manometer increase, meaning that there is more vacuum. Now, turning the idle screw down doesn't have much of an effect on the RPM. What I have resorted to is turning the idle adjuster such that I get 20mmHg on the 4th cylinder and then I adjusted the other cylinders to match. This incidentally is the highest RPM reading I can get at about 11K. I am using the ECU wire to measure RPM. Does anyone know why my RPM doesn't want to go up? I have soaked the adjuster with PB Blaster on the throttle body and it moves fine within a certain range, so I don't think is't mechanical... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I don't quite follow you Rice. Idle al 10,500 rpm? Idle should be 1,200 rpm. I never adjusted the fixed cylinder.. I understand that one not to be adjustable. I just plugged the manometer in, and adjusted the 3 adjustable cylinders to align with the fixed one and then adjusted the idle to 1,200 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 1, 2014 I am in the process of doing the sync now and can't get idle to rise above 10.5K RPM. At its highest, I can hear quite a bit of air being sucked into the starter valve openings. If I turn the idle screw down, the hissing stops (almost) and the readings on the manometer increase, meaning that there is more vacuum. Now, turning the idle screw down doesn't have much of an effect on the RPM. What I have resorted to is turning the idle adjuster such that I get 20mmHg on the 4th cylinder and then I adjusted the other cylinders to match. This incidentally is the highest RPM reading I can get at about 11K. I am using the ECU wire to measure RPM. Does anyone know why my RPM doesn't want to go up? I have soaked the adjuster with PB Blaster on the throttle body and it moves fine within a certain range, so I don't think is't mechanical... Before you started did you have any problems with adjusting the idle r.p.m.'s? Just to satisfy me, the so called non adjustable starter valve , make sure it's not loose. Because mine was I would set it and it would change,. In other words the non adjustable valve would turn , the idle was all over the place. After I found it, I set it and crimp it. After that 15 minutes I had them all set the same . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted May 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 2, 2014 Sorry for the jumbled up description:) The issue is that I couldn't get my idle RPM to reach 1200. At most, I could get it to idle at 1100 RPM (not 10.5K - My bad), at which pooint adjuster wouldn't turn any further. The fixed cylinder 4 was left untouched. I ended up turning RPM adjuster back towards the low side until the vacuum rose to about 20 mmHg while RPM remained at 1100. I then synced all to cylinder # 4 and called it a day. First impression is nocably smoother responce at parking lot speeds. Will do more testing and report. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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