Member Contributer chris2992 Posted July 12, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 12, 2007 Sweet, Glad it is working out for others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Just a data point: according to the FSM, "normal" charging voltage on a VFR800 is <15.5Volts. Sort of a vague description if you ask me. :shrugs: I'm getting ~14.2v peak with the new updated OEM R/R and the 30 Amp main fuse wiring upsize mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Where is the best source for the R1 RR? I am thinking I should look into this before venturing 700 miles from home (when all the bad things happen of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobie1dog Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Where is the best source for the R1 RR? I am thinking I should look into this before venturing 700 miles from home (when all the bad things happen of course) ebay...but the price seems to vary widely from week to week :pissed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lof Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 I bought a Vfr 1993 recently with electric problem. Yes it was the R/R. The dealer wanted 350$ for a Honda OEM : :goofy: I ended up buying one of Ebay . The R/R + shipping + wires = about 75 $ CDN thanks a lmillion chris2992 ! XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest heavenzjai Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 I added you info to your pic so I could print it out easily and not forget your details. copy the pic and print it like I did if it helps I'm confused is the positive (+) in the inside, or the outside? Busy little shop has the positive on the inside... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Enginerd Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 The positive is on the inside, just finished the mod tonight and got back from a ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer chris2992 Posted August 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 27, 2007 I added you info to your pic so I could print it out easily and not forget your details. copy the pic and print it like I did if it helps I'm confused is the positive (+) in the inside, or the outside? Busy little shop has the positive on the inside... From the first post. NOTE: This shows the +/- coming out of the RR backwards, This is only for wiring, space relation is incorrect Wiring Upgrade New + Wires in Red, New - Wires in Green. All wires used are 12ga high strand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zero_1 Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 I touched the three phase wires coming from the stator which were nice an hot. I touched the RR harness and it showed no heat. The R1 RR was not even warm. Sorry for the newb question but the 3 phase wires are supposed to be hot? mine are melting the electrical tape i wrapped them with to make a nice nifty harness... :beer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer flya750 Posted November 2, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted November 2, 2007 (edited) I bought a Vfr 1993 recently with electric problem. Yes it was the R/R. The dealer wanted 350$ for a Honda OEM : :unsure: I ended up buying one of Ebay . The R/R + shipping + wires = about 75 $ CDN thanks a lmillion chris2992 ! XD lof, Did you have much problem fitting the larger R1 RR on your '93? I have a '91 I'm considering doing the mod. Thanks, Dan Edited November 2, 2007 by flya750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 199q Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 sorry if this is a dumb question, but any chance this will work on my 86 700? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Teague Posted December 16, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted December 16, 2008 A success for the 6th gen with a 05 R1 R/R! My stator connector ate itself in a melted mess of goo so I spliced in new wiring and replaced the OE R/R with the Yamaha R1 R/R while I had everything apart. Idle battery voltage: 14.40-14.44 5k battery voltage: 14.40-14.44 It's great that the monitor wire is removed from the picture entirely as the R1 R/R is a 5 wire design and picks up on the system voltage from the positive input. As everyone else has already stated, it runs cool to the touch. With the increased gauge wire off the stator they don't even get hot, I have this feeling of confidence in my electrical system....which... I've never had before. Sweet.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseal Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Hey Chris, Thanks for taking the time to document your R/R upgrade; I plan to do the same. Would you mind answering a couple of questions? You specify an 04-06 R1 R/R; is an 03 not suited for this use? Also, you state that you use gold spades to connect; did you just crimp them, or did you solder them? Did you connect the two red wires to one, and then spade, and likewise for the two greens? I wonder if snipping the connectors from the old R/R (assuming they're not cooked) and splicing to them would be wise (so as not to alter the bike's wiring harness) - or is it wiser to take those connectors out of the equation? Thanks! Payne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer chris2992 Posted April 5, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 5, 2009 You specify an 04-06 R1 R/R; is an 03 not suited for this use? The 04-06 RR was upgraded from yamaha, slightly larger foot print and larger heat sinks. However you have to cut some of the heat sinks off so the end result may be the same. Personally I think that the 04-06 probably runs cooler than the previous ones, but they will likely be so much better than the OEM that either would be a good choice. Also, you state that you use gold spades to connect; did you just crimp them, or did you solder them? I just crimped them, but put some di-electric grease in the hole before inserting the wire to prevent corrossion Did you connect the two red wires to one, and then spade, and likewise for the two greens? Yes, Yes and Yes. I wonder if snipping the connectors from the old R/R (assuming they're not cooked) and splicing to them would be wise (so as not to alter the bike's wiring harness) - or is it wiser to take those connectors out of the equation? I would not use the OEM connector, it has proven time and time again to be a weak link and you are already altering the bikes harness removing the OE RR. You will still have a "quick disconnect" point at the rr by just unpluging the spades. Hope this helps, if not ask some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseal Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Thank you for taking the time to answer, Chris! That is a big help. Regards, Payne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseal Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Got one off of eBay headed my way! One more quick question - what is the preferred method to combine two wires into one, for the purpose of connecting the one positive and one negative wires of the R/R to the bike's two of each? Thanks, Payne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I would suggest combining the two bike wires into one end of a Crimp butt connector, and the Yamaha end into the other. Use 12 gauge wire for the Yamaha side. I personally like a 16-14 gauge seamless butt connector, and use solder after crimping it and cover in shrink tubing. If you need a few, and will cover shipping, i can send them to you...I have lots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseal Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 I now have an R1 R/R on my VFR! I bought one off eBay for $40 shipped; took a little while to come in, because the seller mixed up my R/R with another buyer's stator hub, so we had to swap packages. Installed it Sunday and took it for a good hour-long test yesterday. I don't have an onboard voltmeter, so I connected my multimeter to the battery and stashed it in the map pocket of my tankbag so I could read it while riding ... I really ought to install a voltmeter ... 14.4V solid the whole way! And when I got home I put my Battery Tender on it as a test, since that was what keyed me into there being a problem (after recently installing a new battery, twice following an hour-long ride it took a few hours to get back to full charge), and now it was back to full charge in about 2 minutes. :-) Pretty easy install. Hacksawing the fins wasn't too bad, and I went slow with my wiring to make sure I had good connections. Crimped and heatshrinked the connectors and used butt-connectors with heat-shrink for the 2-into-1 wires (12ga in, 2x14ga out). R/R barely warm to the touch after an hour, and the wires showed no heat at all (was initially a little concerned about the 2x14ga instead of 2x12ga, but the 2 12ga wires just WOULD NOT go into the butt connector. But, 2x14ga has more cross-sectional area than than 1x12ga, so should be good.) Now time to plan a trip! New rear tire, new chain and sprockets, new battery, and an R/R that I can count on! Payne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fulch13 Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 Not too sound too incredibly stupid, but for beefing up the wiring...the ground at the rear brake and the frame ground behind the plastic...where are those exactly? Yes, I know where the rear brake is, I mean, are you adding a NEW ground to the mounting bolt or is there an existing ground wire there that you're simply adding the new one into? I don't see an existing one, but maybe I'm blind. :cool: And where is the frame ground behind the plastic? I just don't wanna pull of parts that I don't need to mess with. I assume it's on the right side (as your on the bike)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DarkKnight Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 ...looks like i'll be joining in on the replacement R/R. New battery but every once in a short while, my clocks reset. ...and away we go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DEcosse Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 Hello all - excuse me interloping! I came across this site/thread through a linkback reference. Perhaps a better choice would be the R/R fitted to later model R1 (and a host of other Yamaha), designated the FH012 which does not have that monster heatsink. i.e. no need to chop that thing down. Similar form & fit is the FH010 used on late model Kawasaki ZX10 and ZX14. I worked with a supplier of connectors to secure the mating connectors for these Shindengen R/R - even the R1 model you guys have been using. He can supply bare connectors or even assembled harnesses if you like. (Note - this is not an ad - just a recommendation - he is only source I am aware of that has these connectors - I have absolutely no commercial relationship with that supplier) The connectors give you built-in strain relief as well as waterproofing. These are by Furukawa and a really nice connector! Details in this thread of the FH012 and the source for the connectors - http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-for...or-upgrade.html You can see how much slimmer the FH012 model is, along with the 'proper' connectors in this pic of the installation on my TL1000S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer chris2992 Posted July 16, 2009 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 16, 2009 Details in this thread of the FH012 and the source for the connectors - http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-for...or-upgrade.html Sweet, thanks a ton for the info, I'll be picking up a set asap. In reguards to the older model R1RR with the smaller heat sink, I was told that the internals were far less superior to the 04-06 units. Not sure is this is valid or not, but something to think about. Either way I'm sure that both are a vast improvement over the honda peice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I recently found these to be available at Eastern Beaver as well, thanks to another VFRD member pointing me to them. Nice to finally have an option! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DEcosse Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I recently found these to be available at Eastern Beaver as well .... That is the source to whom I was referring - he got these specifically on my request. Super vendor - this is the direct link for the connectors/harnesses http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Pr.../FKWH/fkwh.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I recently found these to be available at Eastern Beaver as well .... That is the source to whom I was referring - he got these specifically on my request. Super vendor - this is the direct link for the connectors/harnesses http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Pr.../FKWH/fkwh.html That was a great writeup you did on the other forum. I am interested in the new MOSFET design. I am curious how they are sinking the stator input without heat...I didn't think the SCR was the problem as much as the output being so high potentially. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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