Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 26, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 26, 2007 While I was out last weekend, I was putting along minding my own P's and Q's....At one point I looked down and noticed my FI light ON. Steady-ON, while riding. Interesting, I thought. Strange that there's an idiot light on, and nothing feels funny about my ride. Strange, sure. So, I pull over and turn it off, think for a moment, turn it back on and no FI light. Just like MS Windows! Amazing! reboot the bike and all your problems go away. Wish it were that easy all the time.... <_< So, the question...do I have a serious problem? Looking through the service manual, I don't see anything in here about the FI light coming on WHILE riding. Do I need to go in and pull any codes? When the FI light comes on while riding, I'm guess that's the indication there's a problem? Why would the light go out then if there really is a problem? Hopefully somebody's seen this before... Anyone? :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 bump..... .....Bueller.....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 My 6th gen. did this once to me & I was able to clear it the same way you did. Here was the situation. I was running low on gas but was still flogging it pretty hard in the corners when my engine started to surge while at full lean & the fi lit up. After filling up & restarting every thing was OK. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikeorski4me Posted April 27, 2007 Share Posted April 27, 2007 Sounds like the notorious main fuse wiring problem to me....same symptoms I had which were fixed with a new, heavier gauge fuse setup. Fix is well covered elsewhere on the site, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted April 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 Read the codes, that is what they are for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 My 6th gen. did this once to me & I was able to clear it the same way you did. Here was the situation. I was running low on gas but was still flogging it pretty hard in the corners when my engine started to surge while at full lean & the fi lit up. After filling up & restarting every thing was OK. Hope this helps. Interesting....I think that at that point I had a decent amount of gas left. I was on surface streets b/w Julian and Ramona when this happened, so I wasn't on the throttle hard. I may have been keeping my revs up to pass when I could, but I certainly wasn't leaning all the way over either..... Read the codes, that is what they are for. :grumble: I was really hoping to do this w/o codes....but I guess I'll go see what's there.... Do I *really* have to take the front end off the bike, as the manual states...."remove the upper cowl..." which looks like the entire front end of the bike..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted April 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 :grumble: I was really hoping to do this w/o codes....but I guess I'll go see what's there.... Do I *really* have to take the front end off the bike, as the manual states...."remove the upper cowl..." which looks like the entire front end of the bike..... Nope, just take off the right meter panel - 2 screws, 1 fairing clip and 60-90 seconds. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 :grumble: I was really hoping to do this w/o codes....but I guess I'll go see what's there.... Do I *really* have to take the front end off the bike, as the manual states...."remove the upper cowl..." which looks like the entire front end of the bike..... Nope, just take off the right meter panel - 2 screws, 1 fairing clip and 60-90 seconds. :thumbsup: SWEET! One down and time to go electrocute myself with a "jumper wire"....brb with the code... :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 BZZZZT! Code 22! Code 22! Danger Will Robinson! Danger! Danger! So...is a "Faulty No.2 O2 Sensor" Something to be worried about should I decide to go for a ride? I'll obviously, at some point tomorrow night or Saturday, pull the fairing and take a look-see at the black connector, but I don't have an ECU test harness to check any of the other stuff..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted April 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 perfect time to put on o2 eliminators or the make your own type. you'll have better running and no more FI light +100000 Buy 2 330ohm resistors from Radio shack, and connect them to the harness side of the O2 sensors and your bike will run a lot better, and no more FI lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 perfect time to put on o2 eliminators or the make your own type. you'll have better running and no more FI light perfect time to put on o2 eliminators or the make your own type. you'll have better running and no more FI light +100000 Buy 2 330ohm resistors from Radio shack, and connect them to the harness side of the O2 sensors and your bike will run a lot better, and no more FI lights. Bling! Thanks guys....was just re-scoping the "Build your own o2 eliminators" thread and will go to RS :shiver: tomorrow at some point to pick up (2) 330 ohm resistors. Now I kinda wish I knew where all my electronics junk is. I probably have something close to 330 ohm in a little zip-lock baggie. I'm guessing that increase the ohms and the bike will run a bit richer, decrease them and it'll run a bit leaner...from my EET background.... Still boggles my mind that I actually had a problem.....I'm now wondering if it was because of the few times I got caught right at 7k, where the RPMs bounced a few times switching b/w (non)VTEC modes.... Anyway....Thanks! Codes read. RS :shiver: tomorrow....and 330ohm resistors as o2 sensors tomorrow night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted April 27, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 Anything other than @330ohm and it is going to cause a FI light or cause the mixture to lean out and run like shit... just like the O2 sensors do. Removing the O2 sensors get rid of most or all of the constant throttle surging that plagues these bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRnGTP Posted April 27, 2007 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2007 im not sure what wattage everyone is using. is it the 10w 330 ohms? the higher watt may be overkill but youll get less heat buildup Well, P=IV and I=V/R, so I=12V/330ohm=0.0363636...Amps....aka 36.36mA P=IV=36.36mA*12V = 0.43636...Watts. So, 1/2 Watt resistor should be fine. I'll grab 1W rated Resistors or better to be SAFE. I'm a geek...yep...got it.... :thumbsup: .....unless of course they step down the voltage using a voltage regulator to 5V....in which case............ :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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