The Phantom Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Another member mentioned a product called Everbrite (Nyalic overseas) which runs about $32 USD plus $6 shipping (mail order only). This 16 oz can will do the equivalent of five or six wheels and has a long shelf life. Keep it for touchup and for other projects. It is amazing stuff. Just make sure your wheels are super clean and dry before application. My preference was for the brush-on method over the spray can. I have a spraycan of Nyalic ($55AUD from the distributor) and can vouch for its qualities. It's amazing alright, almost weird in its qualities and characteristics. It comes out of the (very high quality) spraycan like water vapour, extremely fine. It's self-leveling, so there's not much difference between spraying and brushing it on. When it cures it's very tough and durable and won't ever go yellow. And if you do need to touch it up (eg. if you get a scratch in the clearcoat) you literally just paint over it with more Nyalic, and the new coat blends into the old coat (and self-levels). Space-age stuff! Great choice of clearcoat. The wheels look tops. I like the look of the 6th gen rear wheel. I'd like to do that, only silver and black! Anybody know off hand if it will bolt to a 4th gen (I know, use the search)? Sort of. The 5th/6th Gen uses recessed bolts to hold the rear brake rotor on, the earlier Gens do not. So when Honda designed the 5th/6th Gen rear wheel they used a flat face between the lug holes. You need to either relieve this area (in the four sections where the rotor bolts hit it) using a diegrinder or Dremel, or fit countersunk rotor bolts. Both relatively easy mods, the one you choose depends on your resources I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Brown81 Posted June 13, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted June 13, 2007 I like the look of the 6th gen rear wheel. I'd like to do that, only silver and black! Anybody know off hand if it will bolt to a 4th gen (I know, use the search)? Sort of. The 5th/6th Gen uses recessed bolts to hold the rear brake rotor on, the earlier Gens do not. So when Honda designed the 5th/6th Gen rear wheel they used a flat face between the lug holes. You need to either relieve this area (in the four sections where the rotor bolts hit it) using a diegrinder or Dremel, or fit countersunk rotor bolts. Both relatively easy mods, the one you choose depends on your resources I suppose. Thanks for the reply! Here's the thing, I've noticed several 5th/6th gen wheels that DO have this relief already in the casting! Not sure which gen it is, but I've seen them. I've seen ones with the solid metal between lugs, as well as ones with the hollow area. Anybody know which years have the hollow ones???? I just got a new front Power on, and while picking it up I almost walked out with some dudes rear wheel, as I guess some vifferisti had a rear wheel there. I noticed this wheel was either 5th or 6th gen, and it appeared it would bolt right on?? Doesn't seem like there would be any clearance issues. I like the 5" fine, it's actually a bit lighter, but I would sure like to be able to stick a 180 on my bike, and I like the squared off look of the newer wheel. :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted June 13, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted June 13, 2007 Here's the thing, I've noticed several 5th/6th gen wheels that DO have this relief already in the casting! Not sure which gen it is, but I've seen them. I've got two 6gen wheels sitting in the garage right now and both have a flush casting with no relief hole for the brake rotor bolts. Now they do have large recess holes between the lug bolt areas but those are simply for weight reduction and are inside the circumference zone of the interference. Maybe that is whay you have seen? :pissed: Yeah I know, a pic right here would really be nice for explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 I wanted to show this posting to a guy at work, only to discover much of it got lost in translation when HS did the recent upgrade. It now is reasonably close to the original, with most of the same pics.Perhaps the Mods will "pin it" again... Done pinned! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Brown81 Posted June 13, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted June 13, 2007 Here's the thing, I've noticed several 5th/6th gen wheels that DO have this relief already in the casting! Not sure which gen it is, but I've seen them. I've got two 6gen wheels sitting in the garage right now and both have a flush casting with no relief hole for the brake rotor bolts. Now they do have large recess holes between the lug bolt areas but those are simply for weight reduction and are inside the circumference zone of the interference. Maybe that is whay you have seen? :pissed: Yeah I know, a pic right here would really be nice for explanation. Yep, pics would rule. So, those relief areas are not big enough to accept the 4th gen bolts?? I would just need to have the little are on the inside ground off?? Thanls for taking a look for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Viffer Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Great job...you have my Respect as I went the lazy route and paid some shop in Houston $150 to strip and polish my rear only. I have used Aircraft paint remover on my 87 vfr700 to strip outer part of rim with great results. But watch it as that stuf BURNS. DAS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brutus Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Don't know if anyone has brought this up yet but I would advise against using steel wool on aluminum, it takes awhile but even the smallest particles of steel on aluminum create a local effect where the steel eats the aluminum. You may have seen wheels were there were imperfections in the metal that looks like worms ate it or there are pock marks. So after stripping use something else to polish because you can never truly be sure you have removed all the steel. Otherwise I am doing this over the next two weekends. Strip this one and then paint the next. The results look fantastic and the paint on my rims is flaking off as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest VFRTec Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 Very clean, unique look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DominoTree Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Sweet! For whatever reason, most people with VFRs seem to modify them in good taste, even the streetfighter conversions I've seen. I suppose if you have good taste in bikes, you will have good taste in other things as well I can hardly say the same about most other bikes :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 looks really awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SAFE-T Posted February 25, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted February 25, 2008 Great job...you have my Respect as I went the lazy route and paid some shop in Houston $150 to strip and polish my rear only. I had these wheels ALKALINE STRIPPED for about $20 per wheel here 4th gen VFR rear, '00-'01 RC51 front 90-93 rear A.jpg Stripped third gen. wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest yeswill2k Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 I'm just in the process of doing the same thing to my wheels, while I have the bike completely apart. Although I went one step further. First completely rubbed the wheel down with steel wool to take the glaze off the paint, then went at it with the paint stripper. Took a couple of times for the rough areas though. Then the time consuming part, where I went and completely wet sanded it with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit wet sand paper. Got completely rid of all the machining marks from when the wheel was made. Just like chrome now hahaha Hopefully this might help people thinking about this mod in the future. BTW The rear wheel has roughly 20 hours in it, before getting anywheres near the painting stage. Time consuming, but well worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Zid Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 i just done mine with exactly the same way you did it Here is the pic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kerry_129 Posted March 10, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Good stuff - looks familiar! Here is my latest effort in my drawn-out resurrection & Franken-Viffering of my poor old 5th-gen which was half melted in a garage fire 2 years ago. Stripped the OEM finish using Permatex gasket remover (similar, but even more agressive than the 'aircraft remover' I've used before), bead-blasted to remove residue, and used a grease-less grinding kit from Caswell Plating for the initial smoothing. Then did a bit of hand water-sanding w/ 800, followed by buffing w/ brown tripoli & then white rouge. Then powder-coated with Eastwood 'smoke chrome' on the spokes/centers, & super-gloss clear all over. Came out nicely, and I really like the slightly muted satin effect the clear gave the polished portion. Edited March 10, 2009 by kerry_129 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer i_needit Posted March 10, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2009 That looks really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trinith Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Man, that red and silver look is awesome! Makes me want to do the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Brown81 Posted March 10, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2009 Here is my latest effort in my drawn-out resurrection & Franken-Viffering of my poor old 5th-gen which was half melted in a garage fire 2 years ago. Holy Moly! Those look terrific! :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kerry_129 Posted March 11, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) Thank you. I've never been much of a polish/chrome/bling guy, but when I painted my Viffer in Honda 'Athlete Gray' (w/ white pearl for a nice 'flip'), it needed some contrast & the polish worked really well to compliment the dark color. Fast-forward 4 years & 1 garage fire in late '06.... I finally managed to begin refurbishing it a few months ago after slowly collecting ebay bodywork/Franken-components (and stripping/p-coating/rebuilding the 'destroyed' R/T forks off my old RC51 track-bike which was totaled in the fire :beer: ). Paintjob in the same color is complete, as are the wheels now - should be back on the road finally this spring! :cool: I had the wheels polished before, but the maintenance to keep them decent looking was a pain in the butt (since it's no garage queen, racking up 45k miles in 4 years on the road) - so the powdercoat was a logical choice to provide a VERY durable finish w/ easy cleaning & no re-polishing required. I would highly, highly recommend it as the finish of choice for wheels regardless of color - or anything other metal bits that can be thrown in the oven (pegs, swingarms, triples, etc....). Edited March 11, 2009 by kerry_129 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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