Added A New Button

[chris2992]

Garage Door Opener Steering Stem Button

Well since I am in the waiting mode for parts, I decided to work on the wiring of my farkles and take the time to add some new stuff. I have a blue sea box on the way, and just wanted to take the time to clean everything up and solder all the connections up nicely so that I could quit worrying about them. I also took a page out of Enzed's book.

I had always hated having to pull in the drive, put in neutral, get into tank bag, open garage door, back in gear, and pull in. So to get all techy, I installed a momentary push button switch in the steering stem, that is connected to an opener under the seat. This way I can press the button up the street, and just pull straight int the garage. Lazy yes, cool yes, so why not.

I was, however concerned about leaving the bike outside and people being able to just open the door with the button, so I ran the signal wire through a 12v 5a relay that the contacts are only closed when the bike is on. This way when the key is off, the button is useless, key on, the opener works like a charm.

In the switch, I just cut off one of the secondary buttons and wired on the two wires from the female quick disconnect. Wired the male side to the button relay bike side, and mounted to undertray with velcro.

I sure thought it was pretty cool, thought I'd share. Credit to Enzed for the idea.

Garage Door Opener Opener Unit with quick disconnect.

[KanadianKen]

Cool stuff. Would like to do the same to mine. Got any close up pics of the wiring you did to the transmitter switch? :thumbsup:

[chris2992]

No I don't Ken, but if you want one, I can pull it back apart. I'll tell you what it did, It is very straight forward. On my opener, I had 3 buttons, each button has 4 contacts, but this is just for mounting, you can trace the wires on the circut board to tell which two are the actual contacts. The reason there are 4 contacts is so that when you press the button, the swith doesn't bend, if there were only two, it would be like a table with only 2 legs, won't stay up too well. I double checked my self before I cut anything buy just shorting the two legs that I thought were switched contacts. I then "un-soldered" the switch from the board, and inserted the new wires, "re-soldered" and done.

Now, that was confusing, I'll shoot a pic in a bit.

[Hobie1dog]

The only thing wrong with this installation is that the button should have been RED :blink:

Like the Ren and Stimpy cartoon....."whatever you do Stimpy, DO NOT touch that red button"

[enzed_viffer]

I was, however concerned about leaving the bike outside and people being able to just open the door with the button, so I ran the signal wire through a 12v 5a relay that the contacts are only closed when the bike is on. This way when the key is off, the button is useless, key on, the opener works like a charm.

My initial plan was to wire it up using a relay from the high-beam flasher switch to the opener, but it became too complicated, as I would've needed to use a relay, a timer and some diodes, in order to eliminate the relay being 'live' when using the high beams, as the flasher switch is wired a bit "dirty." So, in the end, I used the KISS principle, and went with the handlebar switch and no relay. It's a shame, as operating a left-handed switch like the flasher is easier than taking my thumb off the grip while riding. Maybe I'll have a look at it again the next time the switch breaks (it's broken once already, as it's not very heavy duty).

Still, it works well, and the door opens (from up to about 60m away), so that's the main thing.

[KanadianKen]

No I don't Ken, but if you want one, I can pull it back apart. I'll tell you what it did, It is very straight forward. On my opener, I had 3 buttons, each button has 4 contacts, but this is just for mounting, you can trace the wires on the circut board to tell which two are the actual contacts. The reason there are 4 contacts is so that when you press the button, the swith doesn't bend, if there were only two, it would be like a table with only 2 legs, won't stay up too well. I double checked my self before I cut anything buy just shorting the two legs that I thought were switched contacts. I then "un-soldered" the switch from the board, and inserted the new wires, "re-soldered" and done.

Now, that was confusing, I'll shoot a pic in a bit.

THanks CHris - I think I get it. I have a spare transmitter for my garage - I'll take it apart and have a look see at the internals. Great idea you had.

[Guest bluedragon]

this is a cool mod, but you could just do what i do. I keep the opener in a inner pocket on which ever jacket im wearing, as i approach the houes press my chest and the door opens. It prolly looks like my nipple opens the door but it works with no mods what so ever :thumbsup:

[KanadianKen]

Ok - so I ripped my spare transmitter apart.

It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod.

MIcroswitch:

Other side:

THanks!!

[enzed_viffer]

this is a cool mod, but you could just do what i do. I keep the opener in a inner pocket on which ever jacket im wearing, as i approach the houes press my chest and the door opens. It prolly looks like my nipple opens the door but it works with no mods what so ever :thumbsup:

I did that for 6 years or so.

The problem was, sometimes it would twist around in my pocket, so I'd have to fumble a bit to get at the button. Also, I was trying to cut down on the amount of crap I was carrying around in my pockets. I figured too that summat that didn't require me to take my hand off the bars was a Good Thing as approaching my house from either direction puts me on a curve.

The main reason I did the mod was just because I could.

[enzed_viffer]

It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod.

I just shorted mine out (with the battery connected) to see which pair it was. One pair worked, the other didn't. In your pictures, I'm guessing that either the left-hand or right-hand pair in the bottom picture will work, given the way they're effectively the same from an electric point of view. I'd go with the left, as it would be easier.

If you wanted to come through from the other side, you could poke the wires through the holes next to S1, and bend the wires over to those two, or bridge them across.

Edited February 26, 2007 by enzed_viffer

[KanadianKen]

It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod.

I just shorted mine out (with the battery connected) to see which pair it was. One pair worked, the other didn't. In your pictures, I'm guessing that either the left-hand or right-hand pair in the bottom picture will work, given the way they're effectively the same from an electric point of view. I'd go with the left, as it would be easier.

If you wanted to come through from the other side, you could poke the wires through the holes next to S1, and bend the wires over to those two, or bridge them across.

Enzed - so if I take the micro switch right off - then solder in one side of the push button to the top left, and the other to the bottom left - when the push button is closed, it completes the circuit and the transmitter sends the signal? If so- I can handle figuring out the leads into and out of the relay. thanks.

[enzed_viffer]

Enzed - so if I take the micro switch right off - then solder in one side of the push button to the top left, and the other to the bottom left - when the push button is closed, it completes the circuit and the transmitter sends the signal? If so- I can handle figuring out the leads into and out of the relay. thanks.

It should do (test it with the battery in to make sure), but you don't have to unsolder the switch. It'll work just fine with it left in. If you want it out (to save accidental pressing, for example?) then just put a small screwdriver or something under the switch, and pry it gently while you heat the terminals on one side then the other.

I left my switch on because (a) it's under the front fairing where there's no danger of accidental operation, and (B) I can revert to using it as a normal remote should I need to - just snip the wires off.

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

Edited February 26, 2007 by enzed_viffer

[KanadianKen]

Enzed - so if I take the micro switch right off - then solder in one side of the push button to the top left, and the other to the bottom left - when the push button is closed, it completes the circuit and the transmitter sends the signal? If so- I can handle figuring out the leads into and out of the relay. thanks.

It should do (test it with the battery in to make sure), but you don't have to unsolder the switch. It'll work just fine with it left in. If you want it out (to save accidental pressing, for example?) then just put a small screwdriver or something under the switch, and pry it gently while you heat the terminals on one side then the other.

I left my switch on because (a) it's under the front fairing where there's no danger of accidental operation, and (B) I can revert to using it as a normal remote should I need to - just snip the wires off.

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

Thanks for the comments - I'll be giving this a go in the coming weeks. Great idea Chris#### !

[vfrcapn]

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

I got it working through the high beams. The contacts in my remote acted only momentarily when the button is pressed - the door doesn't continuously open and close if you hold the button down. I assume that's built in the circuitry. I took the two leads from the contact switch straight to a relay which is triggered off the high beam circuit. Even if you run with high beams it's only going to momentarily activate the opener remote.

[Guest FifeDog]

I keep my garage door opener in a waterproof pouch connected to my key in my ignition...works every time...just pull up and ride in!

Very creative ideas fellas!

[chris2992]

Ken, Looking at the bottom side of your board, the top two terminals are bonded, and the bottom two terminals are bonded. My best guess would be that you could solder in on either set of contacts (one on the top set, one on the bottom set) and it would work. The easiest way to test this is to just take a bare wire the the circut board with the battery in place and short a series of contacts until the door opens. As enzed stated, you don't actually have to take the switch out, you can just add a wire to the existing contacts, then with the quick disconnect you could easily use in your car or on your bike.

As to just putting in your pocket, or on the key fob, well that just isn't adding a farkle now is it.

[enzed_viffer]

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

I got it working through the high beams. The contacts in my remote acted only momentarily when the button is pressed - the door doesn't continuously open and close if you hold the button down. I assume that's built in the circuitry. I took the two leads from the contact switch straight to a relay which is triggered off the high beam circuit. Even if you run with high beams it's only going to momentarily activate the opener remote.

Hmmmm... I'll have to check that wiht one of the other remotes.

If it works like that, then I'll be adding a relay to the system and using the headlight flasher, the next time I have the upper fairing off.

Now - what can I use that button for.....

[HispanicSlammer]

Ok - so I ripped my spare transmitter apart.

It has a micro switch that is soldered with four pins. Can someone tell me based on these photos - where I have to wire the leads in from the appropriate leads on the relay? I plan to use a standard relay like that used on the Stebel horn mod.

MIcroswitch:

Other side:

THanks!!

Well it looks like to me from the backside that the top two and the bottom two leads of the switch are bridged, just looking at the printed circuit on the board. You can just pop off the switch with an iron, stick lead wires in either of top or bottom - using one wire in the top set one wire in the bottom set. Basically its two wires with 4 holes - 2 holes for each printed wire. its a redundant switch the way they designed it, probably cause its a bulk switch or it mounts better using 4 soldier joints instead of just two. If your really an anal kind of guy you can take off the led and mount it remotely as well! HEH planting seeds here!

[COS_VFR]

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

I got it working through the high beams. The contacts in my remote acted only momentarily when the button is pressed - the door doesn't continuously open and close if you hold the button down. I assume that's built in the circuitry. I took the two leads from the contact switch straight to a relay which is triggered off the high beam circuit. Even if you run with high beams it's only going to momentarily activate the opener remote.

The last time I replaced the battery in my remote I noticed that it was a 12V battery. What if you permanently shorted the switch, but then power the remote from the high beam circuit? Every time you flashed your high beams, the remote would get power and the switch would be on. Does anyone think this would work? Maybe use the horn instead.

[The mailman]

Here's the lazy way to do it........ I have a small pocket on each arm of my First Gear jacket that sits on top of my wrist area. I put an extra door opener in that pocket with the button facing upward. Now as I pull into my cul de sac, I just press on my left arm and the door opens before I get to my driveway. It's also great before I head out for a ride. I just press my arm before I even go out to the garage and the door is open before I get to my bike. Cheap and no waiting works for me.

[enzed_viffer]

Here's the lazy way to do it........ I have a small pocket on each arm of my First Gear jacket that sits on top of my wrist area. I put an extra door opener in that pocket with the button facing upward. Now as I pull into my cul de sac, I just press on my left arm and the door opens before I get to my driveway. It's also great before I head out for a ride. I just press my arm before I even go out to the garage and the door is open before I get to my bike. Cheap and no waiting works for me.

Like I said, that's what I used to do. I just remembered one of the reasons I wanted to do away with that - apart from PocketClutter - every time I bent down to do something like check my tyre pressures, the door would open/shut. Also, although the opener was water-resistant, and my jacket is supposedly 100% waterproof, it works by wicking moisture down through the fabric, so the pockets got a bit damp. Not the best for electronics longevity.

Besides, it's all about the FARKLING!

[Guest The Dreamer]

Garage Door Opener Steering Stem Button

Well since I am in the waiting mode for parts, I decided to work on the wiring of my farkles and take the time to add some new stuff. I have a blue sea box on the way, and just wanted to take the time to clean everything up and solder all the connections up nicely so that I could quit worrying about them. I also took a page out of Enzed's book.

I had always hated having to pull in the drive, put in neutral, get into tank bag, open garage door, back in gear, and pull in. So to get all techy, I installed a momentary push button switch in the steering stem, that is connected to an opener under the seat. This way I can press the button up the street, and just pull straight int the garage. Lazy yes, cool yes, so why not.

I was, however concerned about leaving the bike outside and people being able to just open the door with the button, so I ran the signal wire through a 12v 5a relay that the contacts are only closed when the bike is on. This way when the key is off, the button is useless, key on, the opener works like a charm.

In the switch, I just cut off one of the secondary buttons and wired on the two wires from the female quick disconnect. Wired the male side to the button relay bike side, and mounted to undertray with velcro.

I sure thought it was pretty cool, thought I'd share. Credit to Enzed for the idea.

Garage Door Opener Opener Unit with quick disconnect.

A quick question. Where did you get the wire quick disconnects? Can you give a store or web address, model number, etc so I can pick some up.

Thanks

The Dreamer

Ride Safe and Often

[Guest TNGearhart]

I just keep the opener in my left side jacket pocket and tap it as I'm rolling down the street toward my house. But I like the wired to the bike idea too!

[chris2992]

A quick question. Where did you get the wire quick disconnects? Can you give a store or web address, model number, etc so I can pick some up.

Thanks

The Dreamer

Ride Safe and Often

I had an old computer laying around, The QD connector came from the CPU fan. However if you don't have a computer laying around, I'm sure Radio Shack will have something comparable that works well.

[enzed_viffer]

I had an old computer laying around, The QD connector came from the CPU fan. However if you don't have a computer laying around, I'm sure Radio Shack will have something comparable that works well.

I got mine from a local electronics store. A couple of UnZud Dollarshekels.