Jump to content

Battery Dying In Winter


vfrcapn

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

I realize this has been hashed out but I'm hoping if I lay out the details someone can point out something I'm forgetting to test and/or recommend a solution.

This is my '99 VFR with 45K, on it's 3rd battery. They tend to slowly stop holding a charge over the winter. (CA winter = 50 deg) The original one started going 3 years ago so I replaced it with a new stock Yuasa and the updated, improved r/r. I used the Electrex fault chart and it seemed to indicate the orignal r/r was out of spec.

So that battery lasted about 12 months then the same symptoms. I briefly re-used the original battery which I keep around on a battery tender then put in another new Yuasa. That new one developed the same issues last winter but I limped through switching out a few times with the original. A couple months ago it started showing the symptoms again. Battery is dead, I switch out to the alternate and it gives me a few weeks, switch back again. Once the temps warm up the problem tends to go away. The last couple of weeks though, both batteries only give me a few days. The newer one is only 18 months old.

I've been through the Electrex fault chart and got these readings:

Idle V = 12.7V

2500rpm V = 13.2

5000rpm V = 12.8

I read through the UK fault chart Misspent posted (http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29102&st=25) and that says 5K output should be 13.5-15.5. Electrex says 13.5-14.8. Honda says 14-14.8. Minor detail maybe. So voltage is way down on mine. Although, is voltage going to rise at 5K if the battery is fully charged? I switched out to a fresh battery for these tests.

Checked for battery leakage and found none.

Following the Electrex chart:

+ & - leads between r/r and battery are in spec.

Resistance across stator legs are all at about .5 Ohms. Electrex says .5-2 Ω, Honda says .1-1 Ω. So is my stator borderline?

AC output voltages from the stator are all around 63 V, Electrex specs 50 or higher.

Did the diode test on the r/r and all are right where the Electrex chart says they should be.

Conclusion: battery is bad, again? Stator is 'weak'?

I do a lot of short, stop and go riding during the week but the bike never sits for more than a day or two. I've been through all the connectors, everything looks brand new including the wiring but I cleaned and put dielectric grease in the connectors anyway. Got a very slight increase in the 2.5k rpm voltage. The only accessory I've really been running this year is the heated grips, I don't use the high beams. The bike is wired for a vest, gps, radar, etc, but I'm not detecting any shorts or current leakage.

Any suggestions? Anything I'm missing? Is a bad battery going to result in a low voltage at higher load (5k rpm). If it is the battery, any suggestions on a new one other than the stock Yuasa? I read recently about the Odyssey battery (PC 310) and Rob's suggestion on an alternate Yuasa, any other suggestions? I'm a little tired of push starting! :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am no expert on the VFR yet. I have a 98 with 18,000 miles on the clock. At about 16,000 miles the voltage regulator went south. When it did, my bike acted the same way. Charge the battery ride the bike and do a bunch of start ups and turn offs. Check battery voltage after each shut down. My bike lost about .1 volts on every start up. After the bike gets down around 9 or ten volts it will not start anymore. If this sounds like your bike get a new reg.

Its my understanding that this bike is notorious for killing regs. My bike included. When in doubt change it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yo, Cap'n - dollar to a doughnut it's that dang regulator/rectumfryer. My '98 was doing exactly what you're describing, 'cept I only went through one battery before I replaced the stocker with the upgraded one a couple of years ago. And, as I knock on wood, I've not had any problems since. I hit up the battery with my battery tender if I'm not going to ride it for more than a couple of weeks and so far, so good.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
Yo, Cap'n - dollar to a doughnut it's that dang regulator/rectumfryer. My '98 was doing exactly what you're describing, 'cept I only went through one battery before I replaced the stocker with the upgraded one a couple of years ago. And, as I knock on wood, I've not had any problems since. I hit up the battery with my battery tender if I'm not going to ride it for more than a couple of weeks and so far, so good.

Good luck!

Well, I replaced the r/r with the upgraded Honda unit about 3 years ago and if I'm performing the Electrex diagnostic right, the current one is checking out ok. I'll see how this YTZ14S holds up, charging voltage was up where it should be after I put it in but it may have just needed the boost after coming off the store shelf. Don't understand how the original battery goes 5 years and the same brand/model replacement only makes it 12-18 months, if the charging system is good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yo, Cap'n - dollar to a doughnut it's that dang regulator/rectumfryer. My '98 was doing exactly what you're describing, 'cept I only went through one battery before I replaced the stocker with the upgraded one a couple of years ago. And, as I knock on wood, I've not had any problems since. I hit up the battery with my battery tender if I'm not going to ride it for more than a couple of weeks and so far, so good.

Good luck!

Well, I replaced the r/r with the upgraded Honda unit about 3 years ago and if I'm performing the Electrex diagnostic right, the current one is checking out ok. I'll see how this YTZ14S holds up, charging voltage was up where it should be after I put it in but it may have just needed the boost after coming off the store shelf. Don't understand how the original battery goes 5 years and the same brand/model replacement only makes it 12-18 months, if the charging system is good.

You may have changed out the reg 3 years ago. But, that doesn't mean it's still good. The regs die about every 15 to 20 thousand miles on these bikes. If you have a three year old reg it isn't the most recent honda reg for a vfr. Bikes are not like cars if the bat won't hold a charge the reg is dead.

By the way what is the bike charging at? It should be charging around 13.5 - 14 volts anything below that a the reg is definitly dead. For a car I would say alternator. But, this is a bike so the reg would be the part to change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Such generalisations!! "The regs die about every 15 to 20 thousand miles on these bikes" Poo and pish-tosh !! smile.gif

I've had the same reg/rec for 72000km and counting. Showing no signs of going awol, I know this due to the voltmeter on the dash. Been thru 2 batteries though, one coz it sat for 2 years, 1 coz it was faulty, 3rd battery now has 4 years and 68,000km on it... and it gets hot (40deg c) in summer here and coldish in winter (-10deg c)...

Treat it right and it will last...proabably...get a voltmeter installed, keep an eye on it every ride, and check your wires to it once every 6 months...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RR test readings are unreliable at ambient temperature.

My 4th gen RR checked out OK with 30K miles at room temp. Charged at 14.0 volts till it got warm, about 20 minutes into a ride.

Voltage then dropped to below 11 volts.

Replaced RR with a Ricks unit and all is OK.

Ricks unit BTW, is massive compared to the stock unit. Great people too.

Rick personally called me in response to a question I had regarding installation.

Customer service with a personal touch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.