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Installing Radar's Custom Sliders - Black Bases


KanadianKen

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I would love to post my thoughts on Radar's sliders but it seems Canada Post wins the sluggishness contest with USPS. According to their website, they've been at the trasfer center in Missasauga (or however the hell it's spelled..) since Tuesday...

Got mine today via Canaduh Snail Mail.... AWESOME PACKING JOB, RADAR!!! :thumbsup:

Very high quality, just a few questions...... what are the three bigger flat washers for?

Also, for what it's worth, A brief instruction sheet might have answered this :rolleyes: , and although I went to the start to follow KKens' instructions, I couldn't find the washer locations anywhere.

Any ideas KK?/Radar?

I think those drilling spacers are gonna make this SCREWPROOF! :salesman:

I'll report on the progress and if you don't hear from me, I will probably be somewhere JUMPING OFF A CLIFF, CUZ I DID SCREW IT :beer:

The washers are spacers to go into the sliders before threading onto the arbors should you require them, everyones fairings are a little different and I just wanted to make it convienant for everyone to make adjustments. I thought Kens how to was pretty good, but I guess I should make up a good set of instuctions to go with the kit, I will put it on the to do list for when I catch up. Also to anybody that has purchased my Kit, you are welcome to phone me at work, the number is on the package that I sent you, don't be scared to ask questions.

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I have installed the set of red bases on my 02 RED. I like the look.

Heres a couple shots:

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The red is not Honda red - but it looks great.

I have one complete set of Radars BLACK bases, and sliders - along with everything needed - if there is anyone that needs them. PM me, and we'll work out the details to get them to you. You will be paying Darren, I'm just a distribution centre....... smile.gif

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Okay nobody but you has been willing to try the red arbors, now I know that It was a good idea to make them, cause those do look good if I don't say so myself.

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The sliders arrived.

The sliders are installed.

The Customer (me) is happy.

If there is anyone in the Calgary area planning to do an install of Radar's most fine Sliders, I sure can lend a 18" drill. an 1-1/8" hole saw (used only twice) and a honking long piece of drill rod. PM me.

:D :D

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Slider1

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Slider2

PS

I also have pictures of the coolant bottle rework if anyone would like to see 'em

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Well done!! I'd love to see how you did the coolant bottle - any tricks or tips to share?

How were the nerves while cutting the fairings?

The sliders arrived.

The sliders are installed.

The Customer (me) is happy.

If there is anyone in the Calgary area planning to do an install of Radar's most fine Sliders, I sure can lend a 18" drill. an 1-1/8" hole saw (used only twice) and a honking long piece of drill rod. PM me.

:D :D

gallery_5686_1088_5913.jpg

Slider1

gallery_5686_1088_5645.jpg

Slider2

PS

I also have pictures of the coolant bottle rework if anyone would like to see 'em

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Well done!! I'd love to see how you did the coolant bottle - any tricks or tips to share?

How were the nerves while cutting the fairings?

Hey Ken,

There was a wee bit of trepidation when I started up the drill and ran it through the very, very expensive bits of my bike. :rolleyes: But, if you think about it, the holes have to be in the right place. You are running both drill bits through the same jigs and just eyeballing the location where the hole saw will bite into the fairing shows the alignment of the hole has to be centred. Radar did do his homework!! :thumbsup:

The coolant bottle was a snap. Follow the bouncing ball:

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The coolant bottle before any hacking.

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Measure the clearance required to free up the engine mounting hole for use. See, I measured twice,

and drained the bottle.

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Getting ready to cut.

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The tools:

I used a back saw to cut out the portion of the bottle required to clear the mounting hole. Using the saw made sure each cut was at least parallel, even if the cuts weren't a perfect 90 degrees. The "caps" I fashioned would touch both cut surfaces. The sanding block was used to smooth the cut edges.

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The saw cuts were rough. I used a utility knife to trim off the majority of the kerf and then used the sanding block to smooth everything prior to gluing.

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This is the bit I cut out. I used it as the material for the bottom portion of the rebuild. Just fashioned it to fit and shaped it to look somewhat reasonable. The vertical "patch" was fashioned out of a piece of plastic cut from a windshield washer bottle I hand hanging around. Same material as the VFR coolant bottle.

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Fitment of horizontal patch

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Vertical Patch installed. I used your recommendation of the Loctite "All Plastic" adhesive. It worked like advertised. :thumbsup:

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Reinstall the bottle, connect the hoses, pour in the antifreeze drained and Bob's your uncle, you are DONE!!

Nothing magic here. Just measure, cut, make the patches, glue 'em down. As note somewhere else in the thread these patches don't have to be perfectly air tight. This is not a pressured portion of the cooling system and noting the high / low fluid marks on the bottle, antifreeze won't be spilling unless you are using the sliders for their intended purpose and if that happens a little leaking isn't going to be my prime concern. :D

Rich

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Thanks for the how to on the bottle Rich, the input is appreciated, and thanks for getting your nut and bolt back to me so quick, it will be moving on to coast tommorow.

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Guest TimMo

Radar,

First and foremost, thanks for a fantastic product. I showed 'em to my bud at work who has a triumph daytona and a Duc 1098S on order - we are both extremely impressed. Beautiful workmanship, sturdy and robust.

I installed them tonight. The process went flawlessly.

The water bottle mod is still a work in progress. I need to find a piece of polyethelene for the patch. Right now, I have a temporary patch on, but it's not the right material and I don't trust it. I'll head off to the big box stores tomorrow to see if I can find a PE scoop or something else. I'm going to use the soldering iron technique as I think the CA method might not be the best long term solution. CA seems to get brittle with age. I did a few soldering iron tests last night with some of the scraps I had left from the notch which seem very strong. If you heat up the PE with a heat gun before using the soldering iron, the joint seems to take a little better.

The other thing that I will eventually address is the tiny little bridge that results on the edge of the fairing hole. On my right fairing, the bridge is about 1/8". On the left side, it's 1/16". After this season, I'm going to build up this area and repaint the whole bike. It's gonna be cool. Not sure about the color yet - I really like the '04 asphalt black though.

As soon as I get around to it, Radar, I'll post a pic.

Thanks again,

Tim

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Guest TimMo

I cut a rectangular piece about 1 1/2" x 6" off a five gallon HDPE bucket lid. The notch in the bottle is radiused. This way, you don't need an additional joint (between a horizontal and verticle piece). Heating up the patch a little with the heat gun allows you to put a nice curve in the patch to match the radius. Using a soldering iron, I tack welded the piece into position - pushing the tip of a hot iron filed to a point into various spots along the joint produced a nice tack. Then, I trimmed the patch with a utility knife to match the notch. Holding the soldering iron at about a 20 degree angle, I then slowly dragged it around the whole joint giving me a nice concave weld. Next step was to fill in the concave left by the weld. I heated the joint up slightly with a heat gun and layed a bead in it with a hot glue gun. From start to finish, the whole operation can be done in 45 minutes or so.

Tim

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  • 3 weeks later...
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After installing a new chain and sprockets today, I had developed a coolant leak which required me to take off my left side panel to track down a loose hose clamp.

While I was in there I took a close look at the forward and rear engine mount bolts that the Radar/RG sliders use and that the Motovation sliders use.

I had not noticed before, but the rear bolts are relatively small tabs coming off the frame and the bolt does not go all the way through, they just mount to more tabs coming off the engine case. The front bolt has a much larger tab from the frame and goes all the way through the engine.

fs1.jpg

This sort of shows the difference in size of the rear mounting tab versus the front (this is also the hose clamp that was leaking)

fs2.jpg

Where the rear engine mount bolts to a mounting tab on the engine case

fs3.jpg

Forward engine mount bolt goes through the frame, all the way through the engine, and out the frame on the other side

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  • 6 months later...

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