tinyminds Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 There was a writeup before, and a couple different people saying how they did things, but no pics. So we were replacing Teague's last night ( and mind even though mine wasn't shorted out, just for prevention ), and I decided to take a few pics of the process. Any questions let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Here's a shot of the scene in my messy garage as it seems to be every weekend while we are continuously finding more things to blow $ on :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Teague Posted February 17, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2007 Here's a shot of the scene in my messy garage as it seems to be every weekend while we are continuously finding more things to blow $ on :P So cute.... I couldn't believe how bad a shape my 30A aux harness was in. Heck even the actual fuse started to melt on one side; how it never popped due to heat is beyond me (or maybe it was waiting for this weekends ride... heh). For the record my VFR is a 2003 and when I got it w/ 6700 miles used and the harness was starting to show signs of overheating then... Great post as this will leave you stranded out in the middle of no where if you don't check it. Just needs to be in the back of your mind of another thing to keep on top of for preventative maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Nice job Jason! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Nice job Jason! :thumbsup: Can we add a copy of this to the "VTEC Electrics" post? Or just pin it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Will copy / paste now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer johnmark101 Posted February 17, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2007 Excellent write up....... :thumbsup: . After 24,0000 miles the fuseholder and wires on my '03 look fine, but I may replace them as a preventative measure using your example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 For the record my VFR is a 2003 and when I got it w/ 6700 miles used and the harness was starting to show signs of overheating then... ___________ Did you ever do any maintenance on the connnections, I've got like 17,000 mile on my o6 connections, have no sign of heat build up as of yet. Without perfect continuity through those connections , they are going to generate heat and melt. thats a nice job on the repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 Teaque bought the bike that way. My bike w/ 13k and massively loaded with gadgets ( all of which are running through a relay direct off the battery w/ the remote wire running to the taillight so not putting any loads on the bikes wiring ) and I've had no signs what-so-ever of heat damage or overload damage. Stator tested every oil change, tests good as new each time. I have looped a ground wire around the ECU blue connector from one side of the green wire, around the connector to the other side of the green wire behind the left side fairing, for prevention purposes. I would rather prevent problems and catch them before they happen than to let them go and get stranded. I ride a lot but for every hour a ride, I probably do 15 mins of maintenance to my bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Bent Posted February 17, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2007 I'm no electrician but what's the deal about the 30amp fuse that blows seemingly often? What causes this? BTW, Jason, a man's garage is his castle. If it's too neat, it's like being in a church, you feel like you need to dress up.... :goofy: Also, nice job on the pics and "how to". :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinyminds Posted February 17, 2007 Author Share Posted February 17, 2007 I'm no electrician but what's the deal about the 30amp fuse that blows seemingly often? What causes this? BTW, Jason, a man's garage is his castle. If it's too neat, it's like being in a church, you feel like you need to dress up.... :goofy: Also, nice job on the pics and "how to". :thumbsup: Honda put 18 or 20 gauge wire on a 30 amp fuse connector, and the wire can't handle the load, so the heat just fries the wire. replacing the wire replaces currently fried wires, or prevents the problem from possibly happening in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer johnmark101 Posted February 17, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2007 I bought a product called Deoxit and sprayed a little on all the suspect conncetions. It keeps them clean and promotes electrial continuity so there will be less heat build up in the wiring. I think this helps a good bit, but I still check the fuse holder occasionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 17, 2007 Share Posted February 17, 2007 Boyz, did'nt see any mention of solder or dielectric grease, .. . .. . .. I'm just saying, T.minds , I think your writeup is Slammer class !! cheers, . .. . . .. .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrjim2002 Posted February 17, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2007 Great write up, outstanding pictures. I second the Deoxit recommendation. I follow that with a squirt of something called PreservIt (also by CAIG). The stuff is incredibly pricey, but seems like a miracle juice. I treat every connector in the harness I can get hold of twice a year (this replaces dielectic grease). We'll see how long things last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer eastbowl2 Posted February 17, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 17, 2007 Thanks for the how-to. I'll be doing mine shortly. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Hoopster Posted February 25, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 25, 2007 Excellent "How To" Jason. I've already purchased the wire and a new fuse holder ( I broke mine awhile back) but haven't done the fix yet. This leaves me no excuse to let it go any longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtlecreek Posted March 15, 2007 Share Posted March 15, 2007 just a quick addition: I could not get the main battery terminal off of the wire using a soldering iron and pliers, nor could I get the small red wire out either. On top of this, I destroyed the blade fuse holder terminals trying to get THEM off of the wire. So, I tossed the old fuse holder, cut the red wire from the positive batter terminal and simply created an entirely new unit. This might be a good 'work around' for someone who has the same issues. Here is a picture of the final product: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tharkun Posted March 15, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted March 15, 2007 Just in case the connectors are toasted when a wire burns up like that, you can get OEM style Hitachi connectors from the Electrical Conncetions web site at http://electricalconnection.com/electrical...nts/hitachi.htm I have built many a set up using these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer ccnaylor Posted March 22, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted March 22, 2007 I replaced mine last night. When i got the bike 1 year ago the suspect wires looked ok, but not great. At the start of this year they were close to being totally fried! I did ride to Minnesota from Indiana and back last year so i think that must of sent it over the edge. Great write up! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikes Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 ----snip----- I have looped a ground wire around the ECU blue connector from one side of the green wire, around the connector to the other side of the green wire behind the left side fairing, for prevention purposes. I would rather prevent problems and catch them before they happen than to let them go and get stranded. Great how-to, but it needs concluding with this further little bit and some more large clearly marked photos. :D Since you did such a good job with the 30A fix up, why stop there ... I am eager but need some guidance. Although, it is a little disconcerting to have to fix something that Honda didn't get right. cool, thankyou :goofy: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted March 22, 2007 Share Posted March 22, 2007 Where did all those little pointy arrows come from.. they scare me :blink: I hope they're not roaming around your garage on their own now. Who knows what mischief that could cause... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jhugh Posted May 7, 2007 Share Posted May 7, 2007 I bought a product called Deoxit and sprayed a little on all the suspect connections. I bought a can of the stuff and did every connector on the left and right side of the bike + the ECU. For what it's worth, when I took the connectors off the ECU there was what looked like some moisture in there - even though the connectors looked sealed there are places where no wire comes into the connector which can allow water to get in....don't be blasting your garden hose up in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 just a quick addition:I tossed the old fuse holder, cut the red wire from the positive batter terminal and simply created an entirely new unit. Here is a picture of the final product: While I was not having any problems with charred or melted wires, my peak charging voltage was only 13.7v after installing the new, improved R/R and checking/cleaning/tightening all the necessary connections. So I got to looking at the 30A subharness and how skinny the wires are and decided to try an experiment. I made a temporary jumper from the bike side of the natural connector for the 30A subharness and routed it directly to the battery positive with a ring terminal. Lo and behold, I gained 0.5V!!!! So I did basically what Turtlecreek did and that was to buy an accesory fuseholder, a heavy-duty one with 12ga wiring and solder it to the bike side harness, shrink-wrap the connection and crimp/solder a ring terminal to the other side. Generic photo swiped off the web: Voila! 14.2v peak charging voltage. It varies between 13 and 14.2, depending upon RPM, but I'm up about 1/2 volt across the board. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Five hours before this picture was taken, the charred connector was perfect. Perfect. I had pulled it apart and greased it and "worked" it to ensure a good electrical connection for our New England trip. Suddenly, dead bike. Cranks and headlights work, but no start. Notice the fuse is fine..... So here Rob and I are, fixing the friggin' thing on the side of the road for one of the helpless guys in our group. Friggin' connector.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer sailcycle Posted June 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted June 28, 2007 I had this same failure this spring at 32k. I had accidentally left my key on and drained the battery for about an hour. I was able to jump it, but 10 minutes later it died. Later inspection showed the 30a fuse blown and the connector fried. I replaced it with an auxilliary fuse block with much heavier gauge wire. I doesn't take an engineer to figure out that that little pigtail just ain't gonna cut it! I suspect that my connector was corroded and that the extra current charging the dead battery was enough to overheat it at that point. A subsequent measurement showed about 10a travelling through the fuse block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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