Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted August 16, 2002 Forum CEO Share Posted August 16, 2002 I decided to check out the rear axle since my bike has 23k on it, to check for signs of bearing failure and axle wear. Begin by losening the main bolt The main bolt is a huge 46mm jobbie that is on very tight I borrowed Craigs socket to get it off, at this point you just want to get it loose, since its easiest to do with the wheel on the ground first loosen this bolt with the wheel down on the sidestand. Remove the rear wheel Remove the Chain Gaurd It is held in place by 2 screw type plastic clips, 2 hex bolts, and 2 brackets that hold the brake hoses. Once you get the chain gaurd off carfull not to lose the retaining backers that hold the hose brakets Remove the lower air gaurd Remove the main bolt and the washer, then loosen the pinch bolt on the top rear of the swingarm, then use the spanner from the tool kit to get enough slack in the chain to unhook it from the sprocket. Remove the rear hub Inspect the hub for rough bearings, if it turns notchy, noisy, or fits loosely then it should be replaced, put some grease on it anyhow. There is a spacer inside that you could mistake for a bearing, its just a spacer and it fits in there loosely. Remove the rear brake Inspect the axle for scoring If you have a dial indicator and a v block check it for runout as well, check for damage, replace if nessisary, if not grease that puppy up , then inspect the needle bearings, if they are good repack them with grease. My bearings all turned smooth and easy, they were all tight, and the needle bearings had grease, I just packed in a bit more, nothing bad to report, the axle was in good shape, I cleaned up my hub and switched the sprocket around. I also cleaned off the grime from the chain guide, since you have access to it now is the time to clean it! What is suppose to be the SAE equivalent to the 46mm, it is 1-13/16 in. and is available at OSH for $19.95. I have not tried it yet to see if it will work though. 46mm equates to 1.811018 in. while 1-13/16 in. equates to 1.8125 in. - ULEWZ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted March 3, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 3, 2016 This must be the only topic that addresses the rear wheel bearings... that I could find. Thanks HS I noticed some play with my rear wheel the other day and was interested to know what bearings/parts I'm going to need to rebuild this. From my googling it looks like the entire rear end has 3 types of bearing. The main needle bearing A double radial ball bearing And another ball bearing in the sprocket carrier It looks like you can buy the entire assembly (which is what I'll probably do) to save pressing two of the bearings. Has anyone done this before, any tips or knowledge I should know before I buy parts. I was thinking Ron Ayers, as locally the assembly is very expensive. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uniron81 Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 I just did this on my 95. I had a hell of a time getting the axle out of the bearing holder (eccentric), but once I got that out, the rest came apart easily. If you have a press, you should use that to remove and install the bearings. However, I was able to do both with out one. The only advice I have is make sure you orient the bearings properly when installing them (it is not hard to see which way they go). I cleaned out the factory grease and added my own, but I think there was plenty in the bearings I received. I got my bearings through bike bandit for just under $70. I read on here somewhere that there are those that have a second bearing holder/eccentric and swap them out every 2000 miles or something like that. I am going to buy a second one and change it out with every tire change. Then I can inspect, clean and lube the bearings (or change them if needed) and still ride . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Vee-Ef-Ar Posted March 28, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 28, 2016 Hi Uniron81, thanks for the reply. I've gone ahead and ordered a new carrier and will more than likely do as you will too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zRoYz Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I have replaced my hub assembly, I noticed movement when removing wheel for new tyre. A good check is when bike on center stand grab wheel & try to wiggle you can feel movement if bearings bad, just don't mistake the small amount of movement in shock linkages is the hub. I have a press so removed bearings from hub but due to reason tyre was being changed for trip away I was time limited to fix before trip & couldn't get replacement bearings in time. But lucky for me a mate had a new hub assembly for his 5th gen which is a different part number to the 6th gen but fits the same. There isn't much cost difference buying complete hub & buying the bearings, if you add the time etc to fit bearings the hub replacement is the way to go. It was an effort to remove hub from bike & axle from hub because of build up of dirt corrosion, the worn bearings had little grease (I added extra grease to replacement hub). It is recommended you also replace the hub nut when replacing mainly due to locking collar you punch down into slot once nut at torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 29, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 29, 2016 And wear some mechanics gloves to keep your hands somewhat clean! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer PorradaVFR Posted May 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2023 Arrrgghh!! Other VFR boards say 46mm bolt…but the 6th Gen. parts fiche says 35mm! (And I just bought a 35mm socket due to arrive tomorrow). Is it 46mm after all? Item 24? NUT, LOCK (35MM) 90306-MZ7-000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR78 Posted May 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2023 35 is the thread, the socket is 46. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer PorradaVFR Posted May 24, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted May 24, 2023 37 minutes ago, VFR78 said: 35 is the thread, the socket is 46. Yep - I was going nuts and realized that M35 means inner threads just like an M8 bolt means 8mm thick. Now I gotta return the 35mm and find a 46mm. Dang it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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