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new battery or buy charger?


superloadedcat

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BUT as my RPMs increase, the voltage starts going WAY off scale as in 65v, 145v, 300v etc...... and actually goes off the scale of my meter...

I don't see how the battery voltage could possibly get anywhere near that high. The current necessary to get it that high would greatly exceed the capacity of the generator because of the low resistance of the battery. Even with a totally failed regulator, the current alone would be sufficient to prevent the voltage from becomming that high. Therefore I wonder exactly where the meter was connected - surely not directly at the battery terminals.

If the meter were connected to the battery cables and there were a loose connection between either battery cable and its battery terminal, then the voltage could get that high. AC generators (alternators) of the revolving field type, which is what the bike has, have the capability of generating surprisingly high voltages when they are not properly regulated and there is little load, at high speeds. In fact, the generator may well be capable of generating 300 volts, or even more, but only if there is a loose connection at the battery.

Note that the battery is an integral part of the voltage regulation system and if the battery is not connected, or if there is a loose connection to the battery, very high voltage spikes can occur and cause damage to the various electronic devices on the bike, including instruments, fuel injection system, ignition system, and rectifiers. For that reason, the battery should NEVER be disconnected when the engine is running. On older vehicles with generators having commutators, less damage is likely to occur if the battery is disconnected with the engine running, but even there, damage to the regulator could occur.

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Is the meter set to the correct reading?

A failed reg/rec will allow around 16-17v through to the battery, no way you can get anywhere near triple digit readings.

That 17v will kill the battery, you'll know it too from the heat the battery generates, and worse, from the smell. Boiling acid does not make for a happy nose : )

But it shouldn't damage anything else, ok maybe it could burn some connectors. But the ECU etc. are isolated from the charging circuit so don't worry about that.

With any luck your new battery has survived its baptism of fire, and the new reg/rec will sort you out. Slim chances of the stator being at fault with such low mileage, so you should be looking good for Laguna Seca!

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FYI ride now (customer service is not the best) has the cheapest OEM parts available that I am aware of. I replaced my R/R about two months ago, price @ honda $210, ride now $132 or so. Just FYI smile.gif

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well my stator did look fried. it had that 3/4 brown burnt out look to it.

replaced it, and still no charging voltage. so i plugged in the electrosport r/r that i had bought, even though it didnt have the black sensing wire. Still no charging voltage.

rode it down to work to see if it would make a difference. it did not.

unplugged the electrosport r/r and plugged it back in. started the bike, and the damn thing (r/r) started to smoke! it got fried.

plugged back in the original honda r/r and still no charging voltage.

so i have now ordered a new honda OEM r/r. i hope it works or i might not make Laguna Seca for the race. :<

so far i have replaced a battery($50), stator($215), bought an electrosport r/r with the wrong plugs and missing a wire from ebay ($130) and now an OEM r/r ($164)that im waiting to come in.

I'm geting pissed off. ive checked EVERYTHING! gonna dive back in this weekend and look for a short somewhere, even though the current leak test came out negative.

why me?

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PROBLEM SOLVED! PLEASE READ!

AFTER buying/replacing a new battery, stator, P.O.S. electrosport r/r (that fried after installing), Battery Tender jr., the problem turned out to be a BURNT OUT DASH LIGHT BULB that I had.

If you are having charging failure, BEFORE you spend hundreds of $$$, WASTE HOURS AND HOURS on research, disasembly, testing, back ordered parts and major frustration like i did, you might wanna check those damn little bulbs.

Even if your dash is lit, there's about 5 'backlight' bulbs you might wanna check. All it took was 1 for me, and i didn't even know it was toast because the other bulbs were lighting up the dash just fine.

I found this by extensive 'Leak' testing, basically looking for a short by pulling off the negative ground cable from the battery. Using my multimeter (switched to dc mA) i hooked the + lead to the cable, and the - lead to the - side battery terminal.

At first tests, i was showing about 1mA. The guide stated it should be under 1.25mA, so for the first few days i thought it tested fine. Turns out it wasn't. I basically started unhooking cable connectors until the meter went to zero. This happened when i unplugged the 2 major dash connectors. After that, i plugged them back in and started removing light bulbs from the back of the dash. THAT WAS IT!. BTW there was no corrosion or anything, just a stupid burnt out bulb.

Now im getting between 12.6 and 13v at idle, and it just goes up to a beautifull 13-14v when i rev it. New stator, battery and original OEM r/r.

I would also like to tell you that my Electrosport r/r came with the wrong connector plugs, and no black sensing wire. After installing it, i rode about 5 miles and stopped the bike to take a look. Fired the bike up again, and the Electrosport started smoking! Quickly shut the bike off and removed the r/r to find the underneath part cracked open and the whole thing smelling of burnt electronics. I tried to call them 5 TIMES today with no answer. I tried tech support. I tried sales. i tried calling 2 hours later. NOTHING. I wouldn't buy a turd from them in the future.

Go figure. Good Luck. I hope this saves someone alot of time, money and heartache. I'd also like to thank this board and its members for all the ideas, help and kindness. Without it i would still be dead in the water. Thanks!

See ya at LAGUNA SECA!

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