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voltmeter readings 5th gen


teleskier

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Seems like there is a lot of talk regarding stators and R/R's lately. Well a lot of the time actually. I ran into a scenario today and need some help.

I started and ran the bike briefly last weekend while mounting tire chocks in my trailer. Parked the bike this whole week, went to start it today and not enough juice to crank it over.

I put a new battery in the bike back in October when I bought it. I have a multi function Volt meter hooked up, like the one HS uses that does, clock, temp, lap times etc.

When the bike is sitting for extended periods it reads in the 11+ volt range and always fires right up. Is that a normal reading in that situation?

When I am running at RPM, it indicates 13.3 Volts or so if I remember correctly. Even with my Gerbing jacket plugged in it will indicate charging unless I back off and just idle.

Any ideas? Just a freak thing?

right now on the trickle charger it is climbing in voltage reading to where it is at 13.7 right now.

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OK here are some readings after the battery got charged up.

IDLE - low beams 13.5 - 13.7

2K RPM's 14.1-14.3

5K RPM's 14.3

IDLE - High beams 13.3 - 13.4

After shutting off and sitting about a minute, 12.8

Do all of these numbers sound about right? Is the system doing what it is suppose to do? Was my weak battery a fluke?

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OK here are some readings after the battery got charged up.

IDLE - low beams 13.5 - 13.7

2K RPM's  14.1-14.3

5K RPM's  14.3

IDLE - High beams  13.3 - 13.4

After shutting off and sitting about a minute, 12.8

Do all of these numbers sound about right? Is the system doing what it is suppose to do? Was my weak battery a fluke?

Those numbers look good to me. :thumbsup:

I would recheck the battery after the bike has been sitting over-night. If it can't keep a charge over-night, I think it's dead.

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OK here are some readings after the battery got charged up.

IDLE - low beams 13.5 - 13.7

2K RPM's? 14.1-14.3

5K RPM's? 14.3

IDLE - High beams? 13.3 - 13.4

After shutting off and sitting about a minute, 12.8

Do all of these numbers sound about right? Is the system doing what it is suppose to do? Was my weak battery a fluke?

I ran a similar test on my 98, nothing extra on the bike (electrical), and got the following:

OFF 12.6

IDLE, 13.6 13.7 V

2k RPM 13.3

3k RPM 13

I think either you are ok but I got a problem. My R/R might not be working right, the service manual says to check at 5k RPM and it should be 14.0 to 14.8V at that RPM. I will try that tomorrow.

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those are substantially different than my numbers. I did not see in the manual about testing. Guess I will have to look again.

Anyone else have any numbers to suggest which is closer to being correct, mine or goldVFR's?

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Can I add my problem? Not many answers, so maybe I won't get much help...

I ad problems last year, and diagnosed a RR problem. Replaced it and battery. I couldn't get 14v at 4-5k rpm. Seemed to be working fine, otherwise.

Bikes been sitting for a month or so, and battery is dead, gone, no more...

Charged it for a few hours, and no start. Charged it overnight, nothing. Won't start on charger, even with start mode on charger. Put the CBR battery in and it fires right up. With the VFR battery, won't even bump start. Started the bike jumped off my truck battery, and it died immediately after removing the cables.

Bottom line: Battery is done, won't hold a charge. Perhaps a dead cell?

Charging voltage with the CBR battery installed was around 12.6v with the fast idle (around 4k rpm) and about 13.6 at idle. Why is it higher at idle, that 4k?

Battery is less than a year old, so why won't it take a charge?

I rode it down a hill to try to start it, and the dash lights came on as the motor was turning. Alternator is providing something... Battery wouldn't allow suffecient current to pass thru to run though, I'm guessing.

Battery is Yuasa, and bike is 1999. Don't know why the battery would die like that after only a month or so of non-use. I'm buying a new one, and a battery tender!

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OK here are some readings after the battery got charged up.

IDLE - low beams 13.5 - 13.7

2K RPM's  14.1-14.3

5K RPM's  14.3

IDLE - High beams  13.3 - 13.4

After shutting off and sitting about a minute, 12.8

Do all of these numbers sound about right? Is the system doing what it is suppose to do? Was my weak battery a fluke?

Right about where mine sits, no worries.

Ride it more! Park less! :beer:

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Sounds good. Just wish I knew why it went dead in a weeks time if all is well

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Can I add my problem?  Not many answers, so maybe I won't get much help...

I ad problems last year, and diagnosed a RR problem.  Replaced it and battery.  I couldn't get 14v at 4-5k rpm.  Seemed to be working fine, otherwise.

Bikes been sitting for a month or so, and battery is dead, gone, no more...

Charged it for a few hours, and no start.  Charged it overnight, nothing.  Won't start on charger, even with start mode on charger.  Put the CBR battery in and it fires right up.  With the VFR battery, won't even bump start.  Started the bike jumped off my truck battery, and it died immediately after removing the cables. 

Bottom line: Battery is done, won't hold a charge.  Perhaps a dead cell?

Charging voltage with the CBR battery installed was around 12.6v with the fast idle (around 4k rpm) and about 13.6 at idle.  Why is it higher at idle, that 4k?

Battery is less than a year old, so why won't it take a charge?

I rode it down a hill to try to start it, and the dash lights came on as the motor was turning.  Alternator is providing something...  Battery wouldn't allow suffecient current to pass thru to run though, I'm guessing.

Battery is Yuasa, and bike is 1999.  Don't know why the battery would die like that after only a month or so of non-use.  I'm buying a new one, and a battery tender!

Anyone have thoughts on why my voltage reads higher at idle than at 4k? Is the alt/stator only putting out 12.6v or so, and the battery was holding 13.6? Reading the alt/stator voltage at 4k, and reading just the battery voltage at idle?

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Anyone have thoughts on why my voltage reads higher at idle than at 4k? Is the alt/stator only putting out 12.6v or so, and the battery was holding 13.6? Reading the alt/stator voltage at 4k, and reading just the battery voltage at idle?

In the automotive world, this translates into a faulty voltage regulator. I'd do a double check of the grounds and battery connections.

On a side note, when I installed my F4I r/r I also ran a new 8ga battery ground to the harness ground point, and also ran a new 8ga ground to the engine from the battery. Seems to like, so I'm leaving it.

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I found that when the bike is cold - just started- I get a higher reading at about 1500rpm than at 4000. Once I have been for a ride, if I recheck it the reading its higher at 4000???? This is with a new RR and battery.

I use a battery tender most of the time, alternating between the two bikes, depending on which one is being used most.

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Those numbers look good to me.  :thumbsup:

I would recheck the battery after the bike has been sitting over-night.  If it can't keep a charge over-night, I think it's dead.

Went out this morning and checked the reading, sitting at 12.3V Fired right up. Not being an electrical guru, is the drop from 12.6/12.8 to 12.3 overnight to be expected and normal?

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Anyone else have any numbers to suggest which is closer to being correct, mine or goldVFR's?

FWIW, my numbers are within 0.2V of your numbers.

OTOH, I keep my bike on a Battery Tender when it is in the garage, so don't see the overnight drops that you do.

Do you have an alarm system that is draining the battery?

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no alarm system. The only thing I have that I know is running all the time is the multi function volt meter and the clock on the stock dash.

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I know I have read articles and/or posts on electrical problems of the VFR so many times I think I am going to send off to Honda to establish myself on their R&D payroll...

Otherwise, Teleskier, just curious, although I Know I have read this before (I just do not have the time to research the archives), why didn't you put your voltmeter on a switched relay? Of course, it doesn't pull that much, but, why tempt a system to keep draining when the system has the worst characteristics??

No biggee... Jus' curious...

Battery shutting down.... Bzzzzzzzzzzrrrn. :beer:

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I know I have read articles and/or posts on electrical problems of the VFR so many times I think I am going to send off to Honda to establish mysekf on their R&D payroll...

Otherwise, Teleskier, just curious, although I Know I have read this before (I just do not have the time to research the archives), why didn't you put your voltmeter on a switched relay?  Of course, it doesn't pull that much, but, why tempt a system to keep draining when the system has the worst characteristics??

No biggee... Jus' curious...

Battery shutting down....    Bzzzzzzzzzzrrrn.  :beer:

honestly...I am an electrical dumbass. I don't mind asking some questions but feel out of place sometimes with what seems to be very simple things...like a switched relay. I have no idea what that is or how to wire such a thing.

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The idea is easy.. Imagine the light switch in your kitchen.. the light is ONLY on when you "engage" the switch....

Same idea as the voltmeter...any switched relay (ie:license plate light) ONLY turns on, or receives power when "engaged"..in this case, when you turn the key on... So, if you add a relay in to the license plate light switchedline, you can maintain your voltmeter only in "engaged", or keyed on status...

Is that understandable??

Or, did you already know that? :beer:

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Anyone have thoughts on why my voltage reads higher at idle than at 4k?  Is the alt/stator only putting out 12.6v or so, and the battery was holding 13.6?  Reading the alt/stator voltage at 4k, and reading just the battery voltage at idle?

Kev, I have no thoughts :D just comparing my readings to yours. I too have 13.9-14.1 readings while at idle, and run between 13.2-13.7 about/above 4k rpms. I have my volt meter hooked directly to the battery, always hot. At rest with key out/off, the volt meter reads a constant 12.6, rain or shine, cold or hot. I only have about 7400 miles on the bike, so I would not think the R/R went bad sitting for so long? I've never had any starting problem either. This is a new battery in '04, and each winter is placed in the basement with a tender. I'd put the bike there also if I could figure a way to make the turn at the bottom of the stairs......

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Anyone have thoughts on why my voltage reads higher at idle than at 4k?? Is the alt/stator only putting out 12.6v or so, and the battery was holding 13.6?? Reading the alt/stator voltage at 4k, and reading just the battery voltage at idle?

I double checked today, mine idles at 13.65 volts and drops to 12.8 volts at 5k RPM. sad.gif Everone says this a sign of R/R being shot, so I am going to replace it.

As to your situation, when you connect the battery it is always in the same circuit with the alternator and R/R etc. so I dont see how your meter would read the battery at idle and the alternator output at 4k RPM.

More likely, at 4k RPM there is a larger load on the battery. This would drop the voltage output on the battery. Ideally the alternator recharges the battery via the regulator / rectifier. But seems like yours is not working. I have no idea if it is the alternator or the R/R.

I know you said you replaced your R/R last year but maybe it is shot again (unlikely I guess) or maybe you have bad connections to your R/R.

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honestly...I am an electrical dumbass. I don't mind asking some questions but feel out of place sometimes with what seems to be very simple things...like a switched relay. I have no idea what that is or how to wire such a thing.

Firstly, your voltage readings are perfectly OK - don't imagine a problem where there isn't one.

A switched relay is just a relay that is hooked into any circuit that isn't live until the ignition is turned on. SO, in your case, if you don't want the voltmeter drawing some (miniscule) current when the engine's not running, instead of the voltmeter being hooked straight to the battery, put a relay in between the battery and the voltmeter, with the switched side going to say the taillight circuit.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. I always found it useful when in the garage to be able to glance at the resting voltage of the VTR's battery, so there were no surprises.

Just make sure your voltmeter was connected so that the illimination circuit only operates when the key is on. While the meter itself draws minimal current, the lights in the meter draw a bit more.

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Just make sure your voltmeter was connected so that the illimination circuit only operates when the key is on. While the meter itself draws minimal current, the lights in the meter draw a bit more.

Enzed: I am not familliar with that type. Mine is the popular C-Volt model but there i s only 1 pair of wires into the voltmeter. Do you have an example of any voltmeters that have the display powered separately from the meter circut. I would be interested.

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New battery, original stator and r/r = 12.8 at speed. Replaced r/r w/new factory upgraded version, now 13.48 at 5 K. Manual calls for 14.0-14.8 at 5 K. Idles at 13+ (1K) and pops to 14.02 at 1,500 K), drops thereafter as rpm increase to 5 K, when it shows 13.48.

Everything checks out fine statically (.2 ohm on stator, no continuity, good ground, battery voltage through harness, etc.). Though stator checks out statically, will now do dynamic check to measure VAC and if below 50 and/or no equal on stator legs, will replace stator. Not sure what else it can be.

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