Guest jaxsvt Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Ok so last ride of last year my speedometer starts acting funny... needle pointing everywhere. So the hunt begins for a replacement R/R/. Get a Yamaha R6 reg and go to work. Got the wires lined up and connected. Put all the yellow wires on then power and when I touch the ground it sparks. No power. Spend 15 mins trying to figure out what happened. Found the main 30amp fuse and it's blown. Disconnect the battery and replace the fuse - connect battery and blow it again. Weird... So disconnect it and measure it. The new R6 Reg reads 0.7 ohm. The old Honda Reg reads 0.7 ohms. Is my old one burned out yet or what? Reconect the R6 Reg, replace fuse, connect battery and blow 3rd fuse. WTF!!! Finally put old Honda unit back on and go home . What's up guys? Why do I keep blowing the main fuse? I've seen other people replace their R/R with another make so what gives? Is Honda not compatible with Yamaha parts but is with Suzuki? Any help would be appreciated. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 What's up guys?? Why do I keep blowing the main fuse?? I've seen other people replace their R/R with another make so what gives?? Is Honda not compatible with Yamaha parts but is with Suzuki? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> They're all basically the same, but the colour-coding for the wiring varies from make to make. You can use Yamaha (R1 is common), Kawasaki, Ducati, and presumably any other make. There should be three wires the same colour, which are equivalent to the 3 yellows from the stator on the VFR, then 1 or two power/positive wires (could be red, brown or maybe blue) and 1 or 2 negative/earth wires (green or black usually). I addition, there may be a (thin gauge) monitor/voltage wire, which could be any colour but is usually black. This can be connected to the battery or to a taillight or other switched positive circuit. Was the R/R secondhand? If so, it could have an internal short. Did the fuse blow with the motor running, or just with the ignition on? The only other thing I thought of, which doesn't seem to be the case if the bike runs (and the fuse doesn't blow) is a short in a stator coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 They're all basically the same, but the colour-coding for the wiring varies from make to make. You can use Yamaha (R1 is common), Kawasaki, Ducati, and presumably any other make. There should be three wires the same colour, which are equivalent to the 3 yellows from the stator on the VFR, then 1 or two power/positive wires (could be red, brown or maybe blue) and 1 or 2 negative/earth wires (green or black usually). I addition, there may be a (thin gauge) monitor/voltage wire, which could be any colour but is usually black. This can be connected to the battery or to a taillight or other switched positive circuit. Was the R/R secondhand? If so, it could have an internal short. Did the fuse blow with the motor running, or just with the ignition on? The only other thing I thought of, which doesn't seem to be the case if the bike runs (and the fuse doesn't blow) is a short in a stator coil. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks for the reply... I downloaded both schematics for the R/R's so I'm fairly confident that we had the wires correct. All three times the fuse blew when the final connection was made either with the battery or R/R. Never got the bike started until the original Honda unit was re-attatched. Does the Ohm reading of 0.678 to 0.7 sound right for all three R/R's by themselves? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Was the R/R secondhand? Does the Ohm reading of 0.678 to 0.7 sound right for all three R/R's by themselves? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hey, I don't know, Jack - my fault-finding chart's at home, and I'm at work. From memory, it sounds OK., and the service manual for the VFR says 0.1 - 1.0 ohm for "the resistance between all three yellow wires and ground" (which I think refers to EACH wire in turn). If the bike starts on the original R/R, but blows the fuse with the other R/R, then that almost definitely means the other R/R is faulty and has an internal short if you've connected it correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Was the R/R secondhand?Hey, I don't know, Jack - my fault-finding chart's at home, and I'm at work. From memory, it sounds OK., and the service manual for the VFR says 0.1 - 1.0 ohm for "the resistance between all three yellow wires and ground" (which I think refers to EACH wire in turn). If the bike starts on the original R/R, but blows the fuse with the other R/R, then that almost definitely means the other R/R is faulty and has an internal short if you've connected it correctly. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes secondhand. Both R6 Rectifiers. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Could I have placed the Positive and ground incorrectly? If looking at the the R/R itself I put the ground(green) on the left side upper connector with power (red/white)on the upper right and all three alternator(yellow) on the bottom. Is this correct for the R6 rectifier? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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