Jump to content

Transformed Wow !


Baileyrock

Recommended Posts

comp/rebound will impact things more than anything with your bumps. the rate is necessary for your weight and to get proper sag geometry for handling. do what you will, but my suggestion is at least the 20kg spring.

Thanks! So a 20.3kg/mm shock-spring, and 1.0kg/mm fork-springs, or 0.95kg/mm fork-springs?

Yep, I would go .95 on teh front.

BR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Not wanting to start a new topic, I am going to post my setup questions on this old but very useful thread.

What I gathered from this thread is that the 6th Gen VFR800A stock spring rates are 0 .74 kg/cm front and 15.5 kg/cm rear. These are way too soft for the average American rider, even in solo situations. But hey, Honda is a Japanese manufacturer and it probably designed the suspension for petite, sub-150 lbs Asian guys. And I happened to be the type Honda designed the suspensions for. :laugh: So I set my suspensions to the "standard settings" described in the manual, i.e. 2 lines showing for the front preload, 7 clicks from softest for the rear preload, 1.25 turns from stiffest for rear rebound, and measured my free and race sag.

Rider: 53.5 kg (118 lbs) bare

Front sag: 20mm free, 28mm static (Ohlins recommendation: 20-30mm free, 30-40mm static)

Rear sag: 25mm free, 41mm static (Ohlins recommendation: 5-15mm free, 25-35mm static)

I am using the Ohlins owner's manual as my reference. Am I correct that the springs are probably going to be alright for me, and that the front could use less preload (to increase the sag) while the rear could use more (to reduce the sag)?

Yes you are correct on all accounts! :smile:

The stock springs should work for you and the changes you suggest should take you in the right direction.

BR

PS welcome to VFRD!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

With gear I am 240 lbs. I have an 07 with stock suspension all around but I did shim the rear shock with two large washers from Lowes and kept the forks in the stock position in the triple clamps. If I stay smooth at the controls the bike is solid on fair to good pavement. Bumpy or rough surfaces have me slowing down slightly to maintain a safety margin of control.

BR, do your suspension upgrades significantly improve your bike's bumpy road performance?

KEB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Slow makes smooth so easy. :smile:

At my pace the suspension is so tight and refined feeling I hate to mess with it. It limits my speed in some conditions but nit terribly. My Tiger 800 has a slightly softer, longer travel suspension that is a million times more refined than the VFR. If the Tiger had more ground clearance it would run off an hide from the VFR on roads like the Dragon but the VFR motor gives it a much higher top speed and i suspect if the Tiger had the same top end hit the bike would start to misbehave.

I say the Tiger feels flat on top but when I got home after riding with Adam all day the GPS showed my top speed was 139. Must have been when I tried to draft Adam's Beemer on that downhill section of the Cherohala. Adam can attest to how well the Tiger handles on rough pavement as he had no fun following it on Joyce Kilmer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I paid a suspension outfit to set me up from the get-go. AND I got a better-than-internet deal on my Ohlins to boot! Same with the dynotuner I hired to work on the PCIII mapping.

Sometimes it pays to pay the specialist at the outset.

Glad it worked out eventually.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hello I believe this is the right place to ask a spring rate question.

I am building my 5th gen 2001 VFR. I will put F4i front end with VTEC fork tubes and VTEC triple clamps. I am planing to buy AK-20s (we will see about that :) ) , and get NITRON Race Shock in the back.

What spring rate do you suggest for my weight (85kg/185lbs)?

The guy that will set up AK-20 for me said 0.95 in front, so I guess 19.6 in the back. Or is it better to go with 0.90 front and 18.6 in the back?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello I believe this is the right place to ask a spring rate question.

I am building my 5th gen 2001 VFR. I will put F4i front end with VTEC fork tubes and VTEC triple clamps. I am planing to buy AK-20s (we will see about that :) ) , and get NITRON Race Shock in the back.

What spring rate do you suggest for my weight (85kg/185lbs)?

The guy that will set up AK-20 for me said 0.95 in front, so I guess 19.6 in the back. Or is it better to go with 0.90 front and 18.6 in the back?

Depends slightly of what type of riding you plan on doing.

The .95/19.6 should be good and on the firmer side better for twisties and the other combo slightly softer for better touring/comfort.

BR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello I believe this is the right place to ask a spring rate question.

I am building my 5th gen 2001 VFR. I will put F4i front end with VTEC fork tubes and VTEC triple clamps. I am planing to buy AK-20s (we will see about that :) ) , and get NITRON Race Shock in the back.

What spring rate do you suggest for my weight (85kg/185lbs)?

The guy that will set up AK-20 for me said 0.95 in front, so I guess 19.6 in the back. Or is it better to go with 0.90 front and 18.6 in the back?

Depends slightly of what type of riding you plan on doing.

The .95/19.6 should be good and on the firmer side better for twisties and the other combo slightly softer for better touring/comfort.

BR

Well I do both, that is why I bought VFR in the first place. When I am in the twisties chasing fellows on 1000RR, 1000 K7,8,9,... R1 and others I tend to ride fast and agressive. But When I am touring I always carry side cases, tob case and tank bag and passenger (I know too much). On stock susspension somethimes feels like I am doing push ups the whole trip.

So if valving is what makes ride plush or harsh not the spring it self. What is the best compromise? I must get it right at first try, because I am importing parts to Serbia (so called third world country), and it will be extremly expensive to send it back, almost as the cost of new.

As you said before, there is only one spring that fits the rider (based od free and rider sag numbers), I am guessing Better go firm I can dial in valving since I will have adjustable suspension. Or I am getting it wrong?

Ivan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Based on your description of riding habits (either solo and hard charging the twisties or riding more moderatly but two up and loaded) I would suggest the heavier of the two choices you mentioned for front and rear.


I have been riding very much the same as you for the past three years both solo and two up and rarely move my suspension settings (maybe twice) between fast solo or two up fun pace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you said before, there is only one spring that fits the rider (based od free and rider sag numbers), I am guessing Better go firm I can dial in valving since I will have adjustable suspension. Or I am getting it wrong?

Ivan.

Ivan, Springs or correct spring rates are the Foundation of any suspension, they support the bike and riders weight. Valving controls the springs osolation, suspension transitions, bump and ride control.

On the front running F4i parts allow adjustments of both comp & rebound which is Great, it allows for rider tuning to personal preference. The F4i rebound valving is decent, but the compression valving is poor. Installing some older Showa 3-port valve bodies would make a big improvement. You would have to change the shim stake to get full benifits.

BR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Here are the tables for a VFR800

Forks:

110-145lb 0.85kg/mm

145-175lb 0.90kg/mm

175-210lb 0.95kg/mm

210-245lb 1.00kg/mm

245-280lb 1.05kg/mm

Shock

110-145lb 1050lb/in

145-175lb 1100lb/in

175-210lb 1150lb/in

210-245lb 1200lb/in

245-280lb 1250lb/in

I would certainly suggest a set of 0.95kg/mm springs up front and a 1150lb/in (20.54kg/mm) spring out back. This would apploy to all street riders, the only time you would need to change is if you were an expert track rider on slicks. I hope this helps!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you said before, there is only one spring that fits the rider (based od free and rider sag numbers), I am guessing Better go firm I can dial in valving since I will have adjustable suspension. Or I am getting it wrong?

Ivan.

Ivan, Springs or correct spring rates are the Foundation of any suspension, they support the bike and riders weight. Valving controls the springs osolation, suspension transitions, bump and ride control.

On the front running F4i parts allow adjustments of both comp & rebound which is Great, it allows for rider tuning to personal preference. The F4i rebound valving is decent, but the compression valving is poor. Installing some older Showa 3-port valve bodies would make a big improvement. You would have to change the shim stake to get full benifits.

BR

Thanks. I will keep that in mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are the tables for a VFR800

Forks:

110-145lb 0.85kg/mm

145-175lb 0.90kg/mm

175-210lb 0.95kg/mm

210-245lb 1.00kg/mm

245-280lb 1.05kg/mm

Shock

110-145lb 1050lb/in

145-175lb 1100lb/in

175-210lb 1150lb/in

210-245lb 1200lb/in

245-280lb 1250lb/in

I would certainly suggest a set of 0.95kg/mm springs up front and a 1150lb/in (20.54kg/mm) spring out back. This would apploy to all street riders, the only time you would need to change is if you were an expert track rider on slicks. I hope this helps!

Thanks Jamie.

I notice on the rear is one rate higher than suggested same percentage increase front/back. But you are the expert. :)

So if I go .95 front and 1150 on the back (instead of 1100), I can't go wrong?

Ivan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Ok. I went with CBR 600 F4i forks and mudguard, VTEC Triples, clipons. VFR Fi (2001) front wheel and axle and spacers (yes it fits perfectly). F4i front brakes (calipers and master), HEL Dual braided lines, rear master and HEL short line for bridge.

Jaime Daugherty supplied everything for front fork rebuild. Springs, valves, bushings, seals, and 929 shock conversion.

I did the transformation. I finished on Friday night.

First impression is:

Transformed Wow !

The package works great. Suspension and braking everything is very very good.

I would like to thank everyone on this great forum. It's is a real treasure to be here and read all this data, information, ...

Especially to Baileyrock and Jamie Daugherty.

This is how my bike looks now:

2013-08-01_19-15-30_565.jpg

After test ride.

2013-08-01_19-15-52_49.jpg

New forks and brakes.

2013-08-01_19-16-02_929.jpg

2013-08-03_13-11-42_953.jpg

2013-08-03_13-11-50_985.jpg

2013-08-03_13-12-11_664.jpg

2013-08-03_13-12-26_732.jpg

2013-08-03_13-12-41_796.jpg

I realy like the stock look. I think this is how Honda should make them in the first place.

Ivan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Nice job Ivan, is that a 5th gen front mud guard or a CBR600F4i piece?


never mind, missed it in the first sentence...very nice job!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.