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Transformed Wow !


Baileyrock

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Boy was I wrong on my theory related to rear spring rate.

I had Phil at Aftershocks re-valve and re-spring my Vtec forks last summer and while I felt an improvement with the forks I wasn't happy with the bikes handling.

I installed a CBR Ohlins on the rear at the same time as the redone forks, but I did not increase the spring rate for fear of a horrendous ride and I thought that if I could get the proper SAG with the stock rate spring than everything was cool. As mentioned I wasn't really impressed with the set-up and was considering another complete front end swap to a F4i, but after another conversation with Phil I was convinced to try a heaver rear spring rate first in order to bring the bikes balance back closer to what Honda originally had.

Phil installed .95 kg forks spring and recommended 19 kg rear spring to maintain balance, so I ordered a 19 kg from Ohlins.

Today was my first ride with the new spring set-up and I haven't even set proper SAG or dialed in the shock yet.

Results, This thing is on Rails ! :goofy: Turns in better, holds a line better, does everything better. It has transformed the bike completely and I can only imagine how it will feel after I set Sag and spend a day on Comp. & Rebound settings.

Amazing !

straight numbers are 30% stiffer on the front springs (.74 to .95) Rear spring in now 25% stiffer (15.5 kg to 19.3 kg)

added from a newer post 10-19-07

Don't forget that with all this Forking around you guys are doing to the front that you need to consider increasing the rear spring rate to better maintain the bikes balance and get better performance from your forks too.

I first did the forks with valving & .95's and I installed an Ohlins on the rear with a stock rate spring, though it was an improvement it wasn't right.

When I finally installed the proper rear spring on the rear (19kg for my 200 lbs) it transformed both ends of the bike!!! fing02.gif

Turns out running a soft/stock rear spring with new stiffer screwed up feel on both ends because the stiff front transfered more weight to the already to soft rear making it feel worse and the stiffer front tended to bounce across many bumps and irregular surfaces instead of absorbing them.

I had a old post about it " transformed" don't know if it's still around, but consider stiffening the rear spring in close to the same percentage as the front and you'll be much happier.

(note if you just commute and don't hit the twisties you may never notice it) cool.gif

update 1/31/2010

After years of learning, reading and sharing set-up info mostly with Pete McCrary we realize that the ONLY way to achieve proper spring rates on out VFR's(or any bike) is by achieving BOTH desired FREE 7 RIDER SAG numbers! Rider sag numbers alone mean ABSOLUTELY nothing by them self in relation to determining correct Spring rates!

I plan to add real world spring rate numbers here from members who have done it the right way achieving desired Free & Rider Sag numbers!

I weigh 190 lbs and have a 19 kg(1065 lb) spring on a Vtec, I get the following numbers measuring by myself:

Free sag- 12mm

Rider sag- 32mm

These are real close for what I want, but I want to check it again check it again w/help to be more accurate.

So IMO if you weight 190 plus you'll need at least a 19kg spring to get close, I'll be trying a 20 kg real soon and post my numbers.

BTW I started w/a 850 lb spring on my Ohlins and had No free sag w/35mm rider sag.

BR

jasonsmith:

220lbs no gear. I wear full textile top to bottom. 07 RWB VFR

Parts

Elka 3-Way with remote pre-load - Rear spring rate - 1100lb or 19.6kg (STOCK 15.3kg) 28% increase.

FRSP S3732095 RT Front Fork Spring 36.7x34.5x315 .95kg from RaceTech (STOCK .74kg) with valving (see below) to compensate for the increased spring rate. 28% increase.

RaceTech

G2-R Gold Valve Kit - G2-R Next Generation Compression Kit

FMGV S2040G

Fork Rebound HFR Gold Valve Kit-Racing (Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve)

FRGV SR2001

Stock Oil Weight = Honda SS-8 (10wt)

New Oil Weight = Maxima 5wt HP Fork Oil (RaceTech recommended US1 which is 2.5wt - 5wt from what I can tell)

Numbers

(with full gear, 3/4 full tank)...

Front:

Sag - 35 mm (3 lines exposed on the pre-load adjuster)

Free Sag - 15mm, down 7mm.

Rear:

Sag - 35 mm (23 out of 52 available clicks in on the pre-load)

Free Sag - 7mm (With a 1200# rear spring I would guess my free sag could be increased to 15mm or so at 35mm rider sag)

* +

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  • Member Contributer
Boy was I wrong on my theory related to rear spring rate.

Straight numbers are 30% stiffer on the front springs (.74 to .95)  Rear spring in now 25% stiffer (15.5 kg to 19.3 kg)

When were you wrong?

I read your hypothesis that Honda have the correct RELATIONSHIP of spring stiffness front & rear. If you change one then you should change the other to maintain the original relationship. This seems to be what you have just done (+-5%).

I also remember you advising specific spring rates at some stage but the thing that stuck in my memory was your relationaship post.

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Balance is indeed the key and it sure is tough to get it right sometimes, even with everything stock and you're just messing with the sag.

The biggest thing that I have trouble with is the bike really seems to require a compromise sag setting to handle right all the way through a tank of gas. It's mostly just ride quality but the amount of gas this bike carries really seems to effect things as it burns off.

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Boy was I wrong on my theory related to rear spring rate.

I had Phil at Aftershocks re-valve and re-spring my Vtec forks last summer and while I felt an improvement with the forks I wasn't happy with the bikes handling.

I installed a CBR Ohlins on the rear at the same time as the redone forks, but I did not increase the spring rate for fear of a horrendous ride and I thought that if I could get the proper SAG with the stock rate spring than everything was cool. As mentioned I  wasn't really impressed with the set-up and was considering another complete front end swap to a F4i, but after another conversation with Phil I was convinced to try a heaver rear spring rate first in order to bring the bikes balance back closer to what Honda originally had.

Phil installed .95 kg forks spring and recommended 19 kg rear spring to maintain balance, so I ordered a 19 kg from Ohlins.

Today was my first ride with the new spring set-up and I haven't even set proper SAG or dialed in the shock yet.

Results, This thing is on Rails ! :idea3:  Turns in better, holds a line better, does everything better. It has transformed the bike completely and I can only imagine how it will feel after I set Sag and spend a day on Comp. & Rebound settings.

Amazing !

straight numbers are 30% stiffer on the front springs (.74 to .95)  Rear spring in now 25% stiffer (15.5 kg to 19.3 kg)

I know what your saying. Phil did an amazing job matching my front and rear. I am still running what he set for me at his shop as far as Rebound and Compression. The knowledge Phil has and the work he does is amazing.

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I know what your saying. Phil did an amazing job matching my front and rear. I am still running what he set for me at his shop as far as Rebound and Compression. The knowledge Phil has and the work he does is amazing.

Yah, he's great ! He tried to lead me, but I was not listening at first. He said you could try it (stock spring) which I did and wasn't happy and when I called complaining about the feel of the forks he said it's your soft rear spring. :idea3:

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  • 3 months later...
I was looking on the race tech site and the spring rate calculator recommends .95 front springs and a 16kg rear for 160 lbs. For 195lbs it says 17kg rear. I wonder why Phil recommended .95 fronts and 19kg rear for 195lbs? (Same front, much higher rear rate.) That makes me question the balance thing. What am I missing here? Is it because you have a different shock, and the spring rate calculator table listed only applies to the stock VFR shock? Hmmm...

I've never been a big fan of RaceTech or their spring rate suggestions! <_<

I'm sure there's more to it and with the huge ports in their valves they may require more spring to control the motion. After talking to several Sus. Pros and looking at what other's like Ohlins use, I don't agree with Race Tech phys. myself.

If you went just by the numbers on spring rates you would have closer balance with Phils numbers

Stock springs are .74 F & 15.3kg R.

a .95 spring is a 30% increase in stiffness over stock

a 19kg spring is a 25% increase in stiffness over stock, so just by the numbers Phils set-up is within 5% the Race tech suggestion you mention would increase the front the same 30% and the rear only 11% which is 19% difference front to rear.

I push the limits of my VFR often and I'm very happy with the results. Now for people who never push the limits of the bike will never really feel that change in balance as much as people who do IMO! :thumbsup:

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  • 1 year later...
Boy was I wrong on my theory related to rear spring rate.

I had Phil at Aftershocks re-valve and re-spring my Vtec forks last summer and while I felt an improvement with the forks I wasn't happy with the bikes handling.

I installed a CBR Ohlins on the rear at the same time as the redone forks, but I did not increase the spring rate for fear of a horrendous ride and I thought that if I could get the proper SAG with the stock rate spring than everything was cool. As mentioned I wasn't really impressed with the set-up and was considering another complete front end swap to a F4i, but after another conversation with Phil I was convinced to try a heaver rear spring rate first in order to bring the bikes balance back closer to what Honda originally had.

Phil installed .95 kg forks spring and recommended 19 kg rear spring to maintain balance, so I ordered a 19 kg from Ohlins.

Today was my first ride with the new spring set-up and I haven't even set proper SAG or dialed in the shock yet.

Results, This thing is on Rails ! :blink: Turns in better, holds a line better, does everything better. It has transformed the bike completely and I can only imagine how it will feel after I set Sag and spend a day on Comp. & Rebound settings.

Amazing !

straight numbers are 30% stiffer on the front springs (.74 to .95) Rear spring in now 25% stiffer (15.5 kg to 19.3 kg)

re-posting for some of the guys doing forks now and added this:

Don't forget that with all this Forking around you guys are doing to the front that you need to consider increasing the rear spring rate to better maintain the bikes balance and get better performance from your forks too.

I first did the forks with valving & .95's and I installed an Ohlins on the rear with a stock rate spring, though it was an improvement it wasn't right.

When I finally installed the proper rear spring on the rear (19kg for my 200 lbs) it transformed both ends of the bike!!! fing02.gif

Turns out running a soft/stock rear spring with new stiffer screwed up feel on both ends because the stiff front transfered more weight to the already to soft rear making it feel worse and the stiffer front tended to bounce across many bumps and irregular surfaces instead of absorbing them.

I had a old post about it " transformed" don't know if it's still around, but consider stiffening the rear spring in close to the same percentage as the front and you'll be much happier.

(note if you just commute and don't hit the twisties you may never notice it) cool.gif

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Guest Pete McCrary

Bailey:

I'm curious - what's your weight? I'm running a Racetech front end and a Penske double adjustable rear that Traxxion set up for me. I use to weigh about 290 and have lost down to 250. The rear end is beginning to bounce around some and I'm wondering if it's time for a softer rear springs.

BTW, Phil Douglas set up a Penske triple adjustable shock and reworked the forks on my Duke II. I highly recommend him and his work. Traxxion Dynamics is only a few miles from me but I still have started sending my stuff out to Phil Douglas for work.

Hispanic Slammer has written some excellent "how to's" on setting up a Race Tech front end. I followed his write up to a T and it did wonders for the front end. I also raised the rear of the bike about an inch. That is one thing I love about the Penske is that you can adjust the length.

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I guess I'll be a little more direct in my question. What change in your weight do you feel makes it time for a spring rate change? Like I said before, I've dropped 40 lbs over a period of about a year. Can't believe the difference it made in my riding. Having had the Penske built for my previous "bulkier" size, is it time to consider going to a lighter shock spring? What are the increments between shock springs? 50#? 100#? I did crank in two more clicks on the rebound and took one click off the compression on the last ride and that helped a bit.

Pete,

40# is a big change IMO, that's like an 18% change. Congrats! Do you know springs are on the bike now?

I would still think you would be in the .95-1.0 kg fronts & 20-21 kg rear springs at 250. The Penske valving should have no problem covering a spring change within it's adjustments.

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Guest Pete McCrary

Bailey:

Dug my paperwork out and all Traxxion listed for the shock spring was 1400 #. I'm assuming that's 1400#/in. Doing the math:

1400 #/in x 1 in/25.39 mm x 1 kg/2.2 # = 25.06 kg/mm. Wow - that's a stiff spring. As an interesting comparison (and I know shock linkage geometry plays a lot into what the proper shock spring to use is), Traxxion built me a shock for my ST1300 (which I have yet to install) and they only used a 1000 # spring. This might explain why I have to be practically horizontal to get the pegs to touch even though I'm using up every bit of the rear tire.

I think I definitely get in touch with Phil Douglas. BTW, does Phil have a website? I couldn't find anything under "Aftershocks" except a site "Under Construction". Definitely going to be giving Phil a call myself. Hard to put my finger on it, but I am just less than comfortable with Traxxion some days. That are some really friendly guys to deal with in person, but I have seldom ordered anything from them that didn't require that it be sent back atleast once to get it right. While going through the paperwork receipts, they had originally made up the shock for a VFR750 which is a much longer shock and I had to send it back for shortening.

Pete

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Bailey:

Dug my paperwork out and all Traxxion listed for the shock spring was 1400 #. I'm assuming that's 1400#/in. Doing the math:

1400 #/in x 1 in/25.39 mm x 1 kg/2.2 # = 25.06 kg/mm. Wow - that's a stiff spring. As an interesting comparison (and I know shock linkage geometry plays a lot into what the proper shock spring to use is), Traxxion built me a shock for my ST1300 (which I have yet to install) and they only used a 1000 # spring. This might explain why I have to be practically horizontal to get the pegs to touch even though I'm using up every bit of the rear tire.

I think I definitely get in touch with Phil Douglas. BTW, does Phil have a website? I couldn't find anything under "Aftershocks" except a site "Under Construction". Definitely going to be giving Phil a call myself. Hard to put my finger on it, but I am just less than comfortable with Traxxion some days. That are some really friendly guys to deal with in person, but I have seldom ordered anything from them that didn't require that it be sent back atleast once to get it right. While going through the paperwork receipts, they had originally made up the shock for a VFR750 which is a much longer shock and I had to send it back for shortening.

Pete

Sounds about right (25kg/1400 lb), Phil suggested a 19-20kg for me at 200lbs(running a 19kg/1100 lb), sounds like a 21-22 kg would be a better fit for your current weight, but ask Phil what he thinks. Yes you are correct on the VFR rocker geometry and weight of the bike combine to require HEAVY rate springs! :beer:

:thumbsup:

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  • 1 year later...
  • Member Contributer

Dusted off an old thread.

I have been reading a few topics on spring rates and I could use some advise. I just ordered an Elka 3-way from a recent group buy. They are building it for me now. Obviously, my untouched 10 year old front end needs to be redone. I weigh about 155 lbs.

I have been reading the charts on Racetech's webpage.

I think I want the .85 springs. .85/.74 = 14.9% increase over stock.

If I do nothing, I am afraid Elka is going to give me a 850lb (stock) or 900 lb shock. I think I should call Elka and specify a 950 lb shock, because 950/850 = 11.8% increase over stock. Which is closer to a balanced bike.

What do you guys think?

The Racetech page says the exact opposite. They recommend 0.89 in the front and a 14.58 kg in the rear (15.3kg is stock) this is a big increase in the front and a decrease in the back...

Am I missing something here?

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I am not an expert, but from what I understand. RaceTech's website tends to recommend a stiffer rate than you really need. I messed with the website and if you put in numbers for a 5th gen. I could only weight 50#s if I was using the stock spring. The RaceTech Springs are designed to be used with RaceTech Valveing as well.

Agreed, I never use Race Tech suggestions as there are almost always on the stiff side! There good to find stock rates and ballpark rate changes.

At 155 lbs you are close to the weight the VFR was set up for, I forget if it's 140 lb or 160 lb. :pissed:

I would find a few other sources on suggested spring rates for you on your bike like any other reputable suspension shop. What is Elka reccomending and do they suggest a front rate too?

You can freshen your fork oil and add another 10cc's(or more) to help slow brake dive and stiffen the front in later stages of travel w/o a spring change. Front & Rear balance is important and I would go with Elka's suggested rear spring rate and adjust the front if needed in relationship to the rear. Don't forget you can use a .80 kg in one leg and a .85 in the other to achieve a .825 kg rate if that's needed.

At your weight stock spring rates maybe good? :blink:

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Excuse me in advance if these are retard questions... :blink: ...but what does the rear spring 'pre-load' (if that is the right term) do in all of this suspension behaviour? I'm 165lbs. and can't really complain about the stock setup. Of course I have to crank the pre-load up/down as I load/unload the bike, doesn't this 'adjust' the spring rates somewhat?

DDO-VFR

Preload is used to achieve proper SAG #'s if the spring rate is close enough. You can find Sag how to in the FAQ section of the tool bar.

Street riding SAG are in the area of 35-45mm front and 25-35mm rear depending on riding type and style and is one of the most important setting (after proper spring rates) you can do in general.

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Excuse me in advance if these are retard questions... :blink: ...but what does the rear spring 'pre-load' (if that is the right term) do in all of this suspension behaviour? I'm 165lbs. and can't really complain about the stock setup. Of course I have to crank the pre-load up/down as I load/unload the bike, doesn't this 'adjust' the spring rates somewhat?

DDO-VFR

Preload is used to achieve proper SAG #'s if the spring rate is close enough. You can find Sag how to in the FAQ section of the tool bar.

Street riding SAG are in the area of 35-45mm front and 25-35mm rear depending on riding type and style and is one of the most important setting (after proper spring rates) you can do in general.

kevin is spot on w/ preload. the point is to have your suspension in the mid part of your travel so you don't bottom or top out. preload does NOT impact spring rate. this is a function of the spring itself and is rated in lbs/in or kg/mm. this simply tells you for 'x' amount of load, the spring compresses 'y' amount of distance....a 15kg/mm spring compresses 1mm per 15kg of load on it. when you combine this with the rear suspension geometry and the design of the shocks compression and rebound circuits, you get a properly tuned suspension that carries the load properly (which means it keeps the contact patch as big and stable as possible) for the road conditions for which it is setup. hope that makes sense.

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I spoke to Elka and also have an outstanding call to Rich Desmond at Sonic Springs.

Elka is putting on an 850# shock. I protested, due to the geometry change when I redo the front end. I told him the lightest springs I can get are Racetech .80 (Sonic doesn't even sell below .85). I explained this is an 8% increase and the rear @850# will be 0%, whereas a 900# rear will be about 6% increase and keep the geometry relatively the same. They told me they would discuss it with their R&D engineers and get back to me. They just called me back. Here is the deal.

They said the 850# is for sure what I want. The 900# is way too stiff for me and my ride will suffer - the static and dynamic sag won't be right. They said that the first inch of suspension travel is very important as it prevents losing traction when I'm flogging in the twisties. They said if I go with the .80s and the 900#, the bike will likely washout the front or rear as opposed to loading up the suspenion/tires.

I said what about the front? Then they asked me an interesting question. Why am I changing the front springs? The .74 is appropriate for me on this bike. I told them my stuff is 10 years old and needs to be replaced. Their response was I could get new factory springs, and bushings, and seals, and fresh oil. Then, if I wanted, I could get emulators.....

I really hope this isn't a expensive mistake. I don't know enough about suspension.... What do you guys think?

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Now, I am REALLY confused.

I just spoke with Rich Desmond (awesome guy btw). He seems very smart and really experienced. Right off the top of his head he knew everything.

Me, 155lbs. on the VFR. He actually laughed when I said .80s. He said no way. On the Heavy VFR @ 155 lbs I want .90s. No question. He said he had .85 on one of his 450 pound bikes and that he is 160lbs. that bike doesnt have as much weight on the front end as the VFR either. He said the bike is perfect with that. I should not get anything but .90s to upgrade the undersprung front end.

I said what about the back end? I said Elka is putting on an 850# spring. I said, but what about the geometry change with the .90s? Its 21% front and 0% rear. He said you are on the right track , BUT the geometry will be much closer to balanced with this setup. :huh: :blush:

Rich said you must understand the manufaturer goes light in the front and stiff in the back. They have to beacuse they cannot let the bike sit real low with luggage and a passenger. The passenger sits directly over the shock and compresses a lot. That is how they design the bike at the factory - its a big compromise. He said if its just me @155lbs. on the bike, the rear spring stock rate sounds about right, and that Elka definitely knows what they are doing.

:mellow:

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I spoke to Elka and also have an outstanding call to Rich Desmond at Sonic Springs.

Elka is putting on an 850# shock. That's putting on a 850# SPRING on the shock! :blush:

I protested, due to the geometry change when I redo the front end.

They said the 850# is for sure what I want. The 900# is way too stiff for me :mellow: A 50 lb change on the rear is almost nothing! Now if their saying that a 850 lb spring is already on the stiff side for your weight this might make sense!

and my ride will suffer - the static and dynamic sag won't be right. I disagree here with a 50lb change!

(note, I don't know shitz)

They said that the first inch of suspension travel is very important as it prevents losing traction when I'm flogging in the twisties. TRUE!

They said if I go with the .80s and the 900#, the bike will likely washout the front or rear as opposed to loading up the suspenion/tires. Crazy, unless like I said stock rates are already too stiff for your weight!

I said what about the front? Then they asked me an interesting question. Why am I changing the front springs? The .74 is appropriate for me on this bike. I told them my stuff is 10 years old and needs to be replaced. Their response was I could get new factory springs, and bushings, and seals, and fresh oil. Then, if I wanted, I could get emulators..... Also true!

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I just spoke with Rich Desmond (awesome guy btw). He seems very smart and really experienced. Right off the top of his head he knew everything. That is the problem with suspension guru's, they all know everything and go about it in completely different ways then the next guru! :huh:

Me, 155lbs. on the VFR. He actually laughed when I said .80s. He said no way. On the Heavy VFR @ 155 lbs I want .90s. No question. He said he had .85 on one of his 450 pound bikes and that he is 160lbs. that bike doesnt have as much weight on the front end as the VFR either. He said the bike is perfect with that. I should not get anything but .90s to upgrade the undersprung front end. This is a very generic statement IMO as several lighter bikes run heavier rates stock than the VFR which would make this statement illogical IMO. There is no one size fits every bikes suspension/geometry/weight IMO.

I said what about the back end? I said Elka is putting on an 850# shock. I said, but what about the geometry change with the .90s? Its 21% front and 0% rear. He said you are on the right track , BUT the geometry will be much closer to balanced with this setup. :blush:

My bike felt like shitz with this setup: stock rear/.95 fronts(28% stiffer), just as this thread states it didn't feel right or better until I increased the rear rate 24% also!

Rich said you must understand the manufaturer goes light in the front and stiff in the back. They have to beacuse they cannot let the bike sit real low with luggage and a passenger. The passenger sits directly over the shock and compresses a lot. That is how they design the bike at the factory - its a big compromise. He said if its just me @155lbs. on the bike, the rear shock stock rate sounds about right, and that Elka definitely knows what they are doing.

:mellow:

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Guest Pete McCrary

Get Andrew Trevitt's book "Sportbike Suspension Tuning".

He has a complete section telling how to figure out if you have too soft or too stiff springs. Makes all the difference in the world.

$19.95 at Amazon.com. Learn - teach your self.

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Guest Pete McCrary
That's a good idea Pete. No GF, Seb. Girls are big trouble. I am strictly a solo act.

I have way too much on my plate right now (life) to be second guessing the folks designing my rear shock. Especially since I am not a suspension professional.

I am going to let Elka build the rear shock the way they think. I am going to educate myself when I have time. Then I am going to decide what to do up front. If, after all that is done, I think I need to change things, so be it.

I appreciate all the responses. Thanks.

Peto:

Understand exactly where you're coming from - that's why I went the route of Trevitt's book. If I contacted 5 different suspension "specialists" (Lindemann, Phil Douglas, Traxxion, etc) I got 5 different answers. I was be more confused than ever.

Trevitt's book has a simple step by step method for determining correct shock spring rate. I followed his guidelines religiously and the VFR has never handled better.

Getting on my soap box for the umpteenth time, I think most of the suspension advice is too centered around damping rates, blah, blah, blah. If you don't have the correct spring to begin with, no amount of damping tuning is going to get you what you want. Most of the advice assumes you've got the correct spring rate on your bike and go from there. I think you need to go back to the very basics and make sure you've got the correct spring rate and then start worrying/adjusting the damping. Remember, the purpose of the shock is control the spring's behavior. If you have the wrong spring to begin with, you'll never get to the right place handling wise.

I run Penske's on every single motorcycle I own. Shock springs are cheap if you know where to buy them. Don't buy them from Lindemann, Traxxion, etc - they usually want $99.95-109.95 for a spring. Go to Hoerr Racing Products (pronounced "Hare" by the way). They are a race car suspension shop that has an incredible selection of Hyperco springs. All you need to know is the spring dimension and the rate you want. A Penske shock takes a 6" long by 2.25" I.D. spring. They sell them for $66.95 all day long and have just about all of them in stock. A spring is a spring is a spring. Doesn't matter if it's on a World of Outlaws car, an Indy car, a NASCAR stocker, or a motorcycle. They are also great people to deal with.

Check them out at hrpworld.com.

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Great stuff as usual Pete! :beer:

Pete turned me onto this book and I love it, thanks again!!!

Also thanks for the link for springs, but it looks like they've had a price hike to $74.95 up to 950 lbs then it's $89.95 for 1000 lbs and above. Still the cheapest I've seen! :goofy:

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Guest Pete McCrary
Great stuff as usual Pete! :beer:

Pete turned me onto this book and I love it, thanks again!!!

Also thanks for the link for springs, but it looks like they've had a price hike to $74.95 up to 950 lbs then it's $89.95 for 1000 lbs and above. Still the cheapest I've seen! :goofy:

Kevin:

Wow! They did go up. Still cheaper than Traxxion, Lindemann, etc.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Hype...;action=product

Thank goodness I already have a shelf full of springs.

Pete

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Guest Pete McCrary

SPRING MATH

1 kg = 2.2 lbs, 1" = 25.39 mm

1#/in x 1 kg/2.2 # x 1 in/25.39 mm = 55.858

Therefore, if you have a spring rated in #/in and want to know what it is equal to in kg/mm, simply divide the #/in amount by 55.858.

Example: 1000#/in spring = 17.90 kg/mm spring.

Conversely, if you have a spring rated in kg/mm, multiply the kg/mm rate by 55.858 to obtain the #/in rate.

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