Handlebar Risers

[Guest Aardvark892]

I'm interested in getting handlebar risers from GenMar, but I'm worried about the installation. Aren't the fork adjusters at the tops of the forks (the common-screwdriver-tipped thingies)? Does anyone have risers? Is there anything I need to do other than just pull off the handlebars and insert the riser? Will there be any clearance/length issues? Thank you for any info you can provide.

Tim

[Rogue]

I'm interested in getting handlebar risers from GenMar, but I'm worried about the installation.  Aren't the fork adjusters at the tops of the forks (the common-screwdriver-tipped thingies)?  Does anyone have risers?  Is there anything I need to do other than just pull off the handlebars and insert the riser?  Will there be any clearance/length issues?  Thank you for any info you can provide.

Tim

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

hi Tim,

The fork adjusters are on the top of the forks. What you are seeing is a cap which Genmar supply to hide the fact that the fork legs are not protruding fully through the clip-on once the risers are fitted. Personally, I don't agree with this for safety reasons, but luckily the VFR responds extremely well to sliding the fork leg up through the yoke. This has two benefits -

1) the bike turns into corners much nicer

2) The installation of the Genmars is safer .

On the other hand, you could purchase a set of MY much nicer, and better designed risers which will do exactly the same job as the others, and at a lower price. have a little look at the link in my signature for info from the UK boards.There is no need for any alterations to cables etc and no problems with clearance at the fairing.

Regards, Rod

[Trace]

Aardvark,

There are no issues with the GenMars....they are literally a 5 minute installation the second time you do it. First time, it'll take you 15, because you're unsure of yourself, of torques, etc. But believe me, it's a no-brainer. Those appearance caps pop off with a small screwdriver, giving instant access to those adjuster thingys that you never really fool with, anyway. :o But they are necessary from an appearance standpoint, because with using the risers, the fork cap and the adjuster thingys are down inside the clip-on's collar. You'll literally be looking at a portion of the inside of the collar, so the caps make it all go away.

Do yourself a VERY big favor and tape a thick towel over your gas tank and fairings, thus avoiding the "Oh SH!T" factor altogether when your ratchet hits something painted. :pissed:

And finally, consider the risers that Rogue/Rod sells. They are more precisley machined and generally nicer than the GenMars. :thumbsup:

[Guest Aardvark892]

So if I understand what you've both told me, if I use the GenMars (which I probably won't now), the clip ons do NOT fully cover the tops of the forks? Isn't that like saying "My front axle is pushed in half way"? That does sound unsafe. If I do as suggested and push the forks up all the way into the riser, that basically lowers the front end of the motorcycle? From a "I'm no engineer" standpoint, that sounds like a large change to make to the motorcycles basic suspension set up... like chopping the springs on a car to make it a lowrider, as happens a lot in the area I used to live. I will probably be getting a set from... oh god I forgot his name, but the poster who suggested buying his. It'll have to wait until sometime after the summer, tho. Thank you both for your suggestions/info/tips. Sometimes I think I should have just waited until the dealer had a Concours to sell... NAHHHH, just kidding!

Tim

[Guest mdloops]

So if I understand what you've both told me, if I use the GenMars (which I probably won't now), the clip ons do NOT fully cover the tops of the forks?  Isn't that like saying "My front axle is pushed in half way"?  That does sound unsafe.  If I do as suggested and push the forks up all the way into the riser, that basically lowers the front end of the motorcycle?  From a "I'm no engineer" standpoint, that sounds like a large change to make to the motorcycles basic suspension set up... like chopping the springs on a car to make it a lowrider, as happens a lot in the area I used to live.  I will probably be getting a set from... oh god I forgot his name, but the poster who suggested buying his.  It'll have to wait until sometime after the summer, tho.  Thank you both for your suggestions/info/tips.  Sometimes I think I should have just waited until the dealer had a Concours to sell... NAHHHH, just kidding!

Tim

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I don't believe it is unsafe by any means if you torque the clamps to the right spec. If you want the benefit of risers with a much better finish contact rogue. I have genmars and would now that I know the benefits would buy them again if I had to, however for the astecially partial folks talk to rogue. They have done wonders for my comfort level on the bike (along with my sargent seat). I don't thinky

[Rogue]

From a "I'm no engineer" standpoint, that sounds like a large change to make to the motorcycles basic suspension set up... like chopping the springs on a car to make it a lowrider, as happens a lot in the area I used to live. Tim

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Tim, it's a small change for the better , anyway. You should try it regardless.

Look for "fork height" and Yoke drop discussions.

Cheers, Rod

[Trace]

Tim,

Yes and no regarding your concerns. You can raise the fork tubes in your triple clamps a maximum of 5 mm. Any more, and the bike begins to act "nervous". I have raised my tubes 5mm (from 44 to 49mm, total from flat cap surface to top of triple) and the bike responded beautifully. This has nothing at all to do with the risers.

Now, raising the tube 5mm does indeed give the risers another 5mm to clamp on to, which is a good thing. But (however!) this is not necessary for safetyl The Gens or the Rogues still give plenty of bite on the tube. And, the design has tabs....just like the clip-on itself....that prevent forward rotation of the bars due to hard stopping/weight on the wrists/etc. No worries there.

So....what you should do it raise your tubes 5 mm in the clamps. Yes, this lowers your bike 5mm at the bottom of the fairings, but this hardly constitues a "lowrider" stance! The improvement to the bike's nimbleness will be astounding. But don't go any further than 49mm, or headshake/instability might result. Mind you, lowering the bike/raising the tubes DOES NOT change your riding position, except maybe the fact that your seat is now "leaning forward" a teeny-weeny smidgen due to the lowering, but essentially, the geometry stays the same. Ths is a hard concept to get your head around...and it's been argued here plenty of times. Fact is....nothing really changes except your turn-in handling....for the better.

Lowering your front end (by raising the tubes) has the same effect as slightly shimming the shock to raise the rear. Some guys do a little bit at each end to kinda offset big changes at only one end. Either way, the result decreases fork rake angle, which increases the bikes nimbleness. There's lots of posts about that subject here.

Then, if you want, add the risers. Seat the riser fully on the top surface of the triple, and then seat the bar fully on the riser. Before tightening the clamp bolts, gently push each bar "out" against those tabs I mentioned, so that there is no chance for any forward movement, ever. The whole thing it perfectly safe and sturdy. You won't snatch the bar off the tube or have any other problems like that unless you are one very large, very strong dude. The clip-on clamps will do their job, believe me.

[enzed_viffer]

Yeah, what Trace said. (Beautifully explained, by the way!)

I fitted the GenMars to the VTR1000 I had, because most of my riding was commuting, and the bars on the pre-2000 models were too low. The extra 19mm the risers gave was just enough to make the bars OK (and coincidentally, the same amount the later models' bars were raised by!) An additional advantage I found with the risers on the VTR is that there was a small amount of slop where the tabs on the clip-ons fitted in the holes in the risers, and the tabs in the risers fitted the gap in the yokes.. Althought tiny, theis afforded a small amount of adjustability fore/aft, to change the angles of the bars at will, and angling them as far back as possible like this made the bars also more comfy (and once again, coincidentally similar to the angle change Honda made to later models).

As an aside, does anyone know if the bar height/angle on the various generations of VFRs has changed?

Edited March 28, 2006 by enzed_viffer

[Rogue]

As an aside, does anyone know if the bar height/angle on the various generations of VFRs has changed?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, it has changed, but the placement of the cut out where the tab engages has also changed so not all bars are interchangeable unless you remove the tab ...

Rod

[solohvs]

I used a trailer to move my 919 around when I need to and plan to do the same with my new VFR. I have the nylon straps from "Canyon Dancer" that make the tie down process quite a lot easier. Anyone want to comment on what will happen when I crank down on the tightener if handle bar risers are in place. I'll bet they are just as strong as the "stock" arrangement.

A wheel chock bolted to the trailer might be a better choice, but the nylon straps are sooooo popular and cheaper too.

[ProMed]

Stock on a 6th gen is 41mm. For the 5th gen, depending on which manual you have it is either listed as 39mm or 44mm. 44mm is the most recent oem setting. On my 02 I have bumped it up to 49mm, which is an 8mm change, and have loved how it now handles for the last month. I am running 1.0 Race Tech springs with the 6th gen stock 10wt fork oil set just a little lower than the stock volume. Without the drop the stiffer forks were rather harsh, after the drop it smoothed everything out. I am 6' 215.

I am also using the gen-mar risers, but without the cap. Certainly check out Rogue's spacers, they are very nice.

on the Canyon Dancers.

Hope this helps!

Paul

Tim,

Yes and no regarding your concerns.? You can raise the fork tubes in your triple clamps a maximum of 5 mm.? Any more, and the bike begins to act "nervous".? I have raised my tubes 5mm (from 44 to 49mm, total from flat cap surface to top of triple) and the bike responded beautifully.? This has nothing at all to do with the risers.

Now, raising the tube 5mm does indeed give the risers another 5mm to clamp on to, which is a good thing.? But (however!) this is not necessary for safetyl? The Gens or the Rogues still give plenty of bite on the tube.? And, the design has tabs....just like the clip-on itself....that prevent forward rotation of the bars due to hard stopping/weight on the wrists/etc.?? No worries there.?

So....what you should do it raise your tubes 5 mm in the clamps.? Yes, this lowers your bike 5mm at the bottom of the fairings, but this hardly constitues a "lowrider" stance!? The improvement to the bike's nimbleness will be astounding.? But don't go any further than 49mm, or headshake/instability might result.?? Mind you, lowering the bike/raising the tubes DOES NOT change your riding position, except maybe the fact that your seat is now "leaning forward" a teeny-weeny smidgen due to the lowering, but essentially, the geometry stays the same.? Ths is a hard concept to get your head around...and it's been argued here plenty of times.? Fact is....nothing really changes except your turn-in handling....for the better.

Lowering your front end (by raising the tubes) has the same effect as slightly shimming the shock to raise the rear.?? Some guys do a little bit at each end to kinda offset big changes at only one end.? Either way, the result decreases fork rake angle, which increases the bikes nimbleness.? There's lots of posts about that subject here.

Then, if you want, add the risers.? Seat the riser fully on the top surface of the triple, and then seat the bar fully on the riser.? Before tightening the clamp bolts, gently push each bar "out" against those tabs I mentioned, so that there is no chance for any forward movement, ever.?? The whole thing it perfectly safe and sturdy.? You won't snatch the bar off the tube or have any other problems like that unless you are one very large, very strong dude.? The clip-on clamps will do their job, believe me.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[Trace]

Stock on a 6th gen is 41mm.  For the 5th gen, depending on which manual you have it is either listed as 39mm or 44mm.  44mm is the most recent oem setting. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

When I checked Axman's 6th Gen, his fork tube height was 44mm [actually, one was 44, the other was 44.5!!], and his was never modified, as far as he knows. He bought the bike new.

When I set my 5th Gens's height, it was at 44mm. My Clymer manual sez 39mm, but I think it's generally agreed that is wrong. I then raised the tubes to 49mm, from the cap flat to the top of the triple.

[ProMed]

When I checked Axman's 6th Gen, his fork tube height was 44mm [actually, one was 44, the other was 44.5!!], and his was never modified, as far as he knows.  He bought the bike new.

When I set my 5th Gens's height, it was at 44mm.  My Clymer manual sez 39mm, but I think it's generally agreed that is wrong. I then raised the tubes to 49mm, from the cap flat to the top of the triple.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My manual says 41mm, never heard or read of a 6th gen coming stock with 44mm. There has been many threads on this subject over at http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/

It seems the 5th gen was first listed with a stock of 39mm and and then it was later bumped to 44mm in the manuals.

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

6th gen fork height

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

5th gen fork height

[Trace]

Good pics, Paul. :thumbsup: Dunno why Axman's tubes were at 44...but they were.

And then there's the controversey over "end of fork tube" vs. "top of cap", the difference being 1 or 2 mm, which is the thickness of the cap. I'm thinking that as a practical matter, the intent is "top of cap", since it's the easiest thing to measure if you're using a simple ruler or a precise depth mike (which is what I use).

In any event, it's astounding how a mere 5mm can make such a difference in a bike's handling. In fact, over in *Biker's Oracle*, our Brit friends were going nuts over the improvement this simple, easy, free mod made to their bikes.

What I don't know...and would like to know...and maybe somebody like HS or BR would have some knowledge....is how far is too far? Will 55mm make the bike shake its head all the time, sometimes, never? What is the safe limit, and does handling continue to improve--or--is 49mm the best compromise for the VFR?

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

[99yellowvfr]

hi Tim,

The fork adjusters are on the top of the forks. What you are seeing is a cap which Genmar supply to hide the fact that the fork legs are not protruding fully through the clip-on once the risers are fitted. Personally, I don't agree with this for safety reasons, but luckily the VFR responds extremely well to sliding the fork leg up through the yoke. This has two benefits -

1) the bike turns into corners much nicer

2) The installation of the Genmars is safer .

On the other hand, you could purchase a set of MY much nicer, and better designed risers which will do exactly the same job as the others, and at a lower price. have a little look at the link in my signature for info from the UK boards.There is no need for any alterations to cables etc and no problems with clearance at the fairing.

Regards, Rod

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I purchased a set of risers from Rod and they are great, so easy to install, look great and make the just the difference you need to go that extra distance in comfort.

fb

[gza]

Gen-mar risers are a :beer: in my book. They look good, and helped with taking the weight off the wrists. I have also found myself being able to be more relaxed and in better riding position.

[SilverVee]

I'm interested in getting handlebar risers from GenMar, but I'm worried about the installation. Aren't the fork adjusters at the tops of the forks (the common-screwdriver-tipped thingies)? Does anyone have risers? Is there anything I need to do other than just pull off the handlebars and insert the riser? Will there be any clearance/length issues? Thank you for any info you can provide.

Tim

Hi Tim,

Have had my GenMars on for about a week now, like others first time took a while, next time would be five to ten minutes max. Check to see if the throttle cables get chafed by the bottom of the ignition assembly when turned to the right, mine did so added spiral cable ties just like in the low beam/high beam mod. Would I buy them again? Maybe, didn't notice a great benefit, have them full back now will try them full forward later, no clearance issues either way.

SilverVee

[skuuter]

Over 5000 miles with Gen Mars...great, no probs/ complaints..... :thumbsup:

[tinyminds]

can someone post pics of the fork cap issue that people talk about. whats it look like after u install them? thanks

[Guest Glider-Driver]

I just raised the bars to the top of the tubes ... and re-tightened. (This was suggested in other posts.) I put a good amount of pressure on the bars and can't get them to rotate, so I think they are fine. Your experience/beliefs may differ.

[Guest domnicktaaffe]

Tim,

hi

i was really interested in this topic/issue you said here.

I have done huge research (motor mechanic by trade -- not long back into bikes after 14 yrs), regards the rake angle and whole steering geometery.

Basically, i have a 2005 vtec, a5, with 8k miles on the clock. do roughly around 1200k miles a month to work on it, have it about 5 months, but getting bad pins and needles in my right hand after 30miles, so opted for the genmar risers. made massive difference. have mra touring screen, so not too bad but big difference on wind resistance (more)with the bars fitted. didnt notice any big difference on the "pins and needles", but thats another issue.

Id like to thank you for your down to earth regards the rake difference. I raised my forks 5 mm last night in work --- wow. unbelieveable

i have 40 mile commute home this morning, with panniers on , doing speeds i wont say, different bike

so responsive with so little effort, but obviously corrects the aerodynamics if the front cos felt nothing, where i would have been slowing down.

the turning is just --- well its like it does it for u, not u doing it.

there is so many sites here stating that-------- drop the forks drop the back ect

but that does not not then really counteract the whole geometery, again another large discussion

the only thing is, below 50 mph, gettin really heavy front wobble ??????????

any idea to counter act it

front tyre pressure is 100% cold. 2 mm on depth

regards

domnick

Yes and no regarding your concerns. You can raise the fork tubes in your triple clamps a maximum of 5 mm. Any more, and the bike begins to act "nervous". I have raised my tubes 5mm (from 44 to 49mm, total from flat cap surface to top of triple) and the bike responded beautifully. This has nothing at all to do with the risers.

Now, raising the tube 5mm does indeed give the risers another 5mm to clamp on to, which is a good thing. But (however!) this is not necessary for safetyl The Gens or the Rogues still give plenty of bite on the tube. And, the design has tabs....just like the clip-on itself....that prevent forward rotation of the bars due to hard stopping/weight on the wrists/etc. No worries there.

So....what you should do it raise your tubes 5 mm in the clamps. Yes, this lowers your bike 5mm at the bottom of the fairings, but this hardly constitues a "lowrider" stance! The improvement to the bike's nimbleness will be astounding. But don't go any further than 49mm, or headshake/instability might result. Mind you, lowering the bike/raising the tubes DOES NOT change your riding position, except maybe the fact that your seat is now "leaning forward" a teeny-weeny smidgen due to the lowering, but essentially, the geometry stays the same. Ths is a hard concept to get your head around...and it's been argued here plenty of times. Fact is....nothing really changes except your turn-in handling....for the better.

Lowering your front end (by raising the tubes) has the same effect as slightly shimming the shock to raise the rear. Some guys do a little bit at each end to kinda offset big changes at only one end. Either way, the result decreases fork rake angle, which increases the bikes nimbleness. There's lots of posts about that subject here.

Then, if you want, add the risers. Seat the riser fully on the top surface of the triple, and then seat the bar fully on the riser. Before tightening the clamp bolts, gently push each bar "out" against those tabs I mentioned, so that there is no chance for any forward movement, ever. The whole thing it perfectly safe and sturdy. You won't snatch the bar off the tube or have any other problems like that unless you are one very large, very strong dude. The clip-on clamps will do their job, believe me.

[Guest AOD]

Hi everyone, I have 1-inch or 3/4-inch risers with the stock clipons. It appears the clipon is pinned into the riser and the riser is pinned to the triple tree. (Confirm this?)

I would LOVE to rotate my clipons forward slightly to reduce the bend in my wrist. I'm waaay more broad-shouldered than the test person who sat on the bike when they determined the bar angle. I have to bow my arms in funny for it to be comfortable...

Other than helibars...can I do anything with the risers and stock clipons I have??

Thanks so much,

~Adam

[Rogue]

Hi everyone, I have 1-inch or 3/4-inch risers with the stock clipons. It appears the clipon is pinned into the riser and the riser is pinned to the triple tree. (Confirm this?)

I would LOVE to rotate my clipons forward slightly to reduce the bend in my wrist. I'm waaay more broad-shouldered than the test person who sat on the bike when they determined the bar angle. I have to bow my arms in funny for it to be comfortable...

Other than helibars...can I do anything with the risers and stock clipons I have??

Thanks so much,

~Adam

Hi Adam,

You have tried slackening the bars off and pushing them forward to take up the movement in the assembly ? There isn't much there but it may help. Otherwise your options are simple : File off some of the front edge of the engagement tab on the bars, or the risers,or both. Obviously this reduces the strength..

The risers replicate the tab engagement , so some people will simply lift the stock bars up the fork leg and retighten them there without a riser - this gives the same effect but the bar WILL rotate around the fork leg under heavy pressure so that would be your call safety wise. It could turn a simple parking lot tip-over into a new tank purchase..

In any event, you won't be able to move the bars FAR forward without finding the levers/switches hitting the fairing on full lock.

Rod

[Guest AOD]

You have tried slackening the bars off and pushing them forward to take up the movement in the assembly ? There isn't much there but it may help. Otherwise your options are simple : File off some of the front edge of the engagement tab on the bars, or the risers,or both. Obviously this reduces the strength..

The risers replicate the tab engagement , so some people will simply lift the stock bars up the fork leg and retighten them there without a riser - this gives the same effect but the bar WILL rotate around the fork leg under heavy pressure so that would be your call safety wise. It could turn a simple parking lot tip-over into a new tank purchase..

In any event, you won't be able to move the bars FAR forward without finding the levers/switches hitting the fairing on full lock.

Rod

Rod - thanks. I haven't tried loosening the bars / risers and pushing as much slack as possible. I guess that's worth a shot...let me see which way the pin is aligned today. The PO may have already done this.

I don't think I'm going to grind off the pin yet. I agree it's not worth the risk of having the bar move under pressure.

~Adam

[Flightar]

I had Genmar risers and never had them move even though I tried to on a few occasions. Now I have Convertibars and have them at the highest position which is +3 inches over stock...beyond that I have the bars raised an additional 1/4 inch in their clamp and the fork clamps raised up the fork tube another 1/4 inch...thus giving me an additional 1/2 inch over what the bars are supposed to provide.

Result, I cannot get the bars or the clamps to move at all. I have tried many times to get the bars to move...they simply won't.

I'm certain that even under conditions that far exceed the normal the bars are going to stay where they are.

Slightly different item, but I also had a YZF 750 with the Two Brothers adjustable riser bars on it...and even during a crash that ground a large portion of the bar weight off the bars never moved...in fact the bike was perfectly ridable after a lot of duct taping 60% of the body work back together and having to shift with my hand for about 30 miles through the mountains due to a broken shifter.

Once at the hotel more permanent repairs were made and the trip continued. A drill borrowed from the maintenance guy at the hotel, a bolt, a lock nut, some locktite and the salvaged rubber from the old shifter fixed the shifting issue. Lots, and lots of duct tape, a slight concussion, a new helmet, some gloves, some mirrors and a few other replacement part found at local bike dealers and the trip was able to continue...BTW total bill for the bike repair was $4,500.00...90% of it was simply body work.