Shift Light Install How-To

[Baileyrock]

You know what, I just thinking about something.  It would be kinda cool to set up the shift light to come on at the VTEC engagement point.  That way, you don't have to worry about the VTEC transition sneaking up on you.  Even better, if you had two shift lights, one at 5800 and another at 6200, you'll always know when VTEC is about to kick in.

The VTEC engagement point has Never been an issue for me! :warranty: Not in the last 30,000 miles anyway. :thumbsup:

[VolatileVFR]

Isn't it the newer GSXRs that come with the shift light?? If you wanted a shift light, that would be the way for you to go.? :warranty:

Hence my point on the whole GSXR quote... But, unrelated, although just to make sure clarity was not blurred, the you was not referring directly to you Oxmole... Actually, it was referred to anyone who goes out and buys a GSXR, rides it out of the parking lot and hits Redline within 500 feet of the dealership, only to lowside due to cold tires and stand up saying "But....but..... sheeesh, I thought that flashing light meant to throttle back even more!!" :goofy:

In other words, it was one of those OH SO SQUIDLY statements... :D

Edited December 20, 2005 by VolatileVFR

[Darth Bling]

The VTEC engagement point has Never been an issue for me! :huh:  Not in the last 30,000 miles anyway. :thumbsup:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Me neither. I was just thinking out loud.

[theoxmole]

Hence my point on the whole GSXR quote... But, unrelated, although just to make sure clarity was not blurred, the you was not referring directly to you Oxmole... Actually, it was referred to anyone who goes out and buys a GSXR, rides it out of the parking lot and hits Redline within 500 feet of the dealership, only to lowside due to cold tires and stand up saying "But....but..... sheeesh, I thought that flashing light meant to throttle back even more!!"    :warranty:

In other words, it was one of those OH SO SQUIDLY statements... :D

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My bad VolatileVFR. Insert smiley :I had a couple of beers and took it the wrong way:

Ahhh, gimme a hug! :P

[Baileyrock]

Me neither.  I was just thinking out loud. 

Cool !

:warranty:

[VolatileVFR]

Ahhh, gimme a hug! 

LMAO.... needed a bit of a laugh t'night!! hehe...

On a different note, I'll give you a hug if you pass me one of those beers.... :warranty:

[Trace]

On a different note Trace, gotta couple questions...

Does your yellow give you what you want during the daytime, or "would you take more"?

Waterproofing... Are you not worrying about the gaps for RPM manipulation?? I saw what you wrote in the original post, but, if given the time, does it seem to be an area that could be easily siliconed, or dealt with???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The yellow is easily seen, day and night. The red in my Vette, likewise. You have to realize that these LEDs are quite bright. But they don't blind you...it's not pointing into you eyeball. As for all the NASA mumbojumbo....get the color you like and don't worry about it. It'll be fine. Just like whatever oil you use...it's fine. I just don't like green LEDs, period.

I keep the little cap with the bike, in case of rain or whatever, and the switches are in the "downhill" location, unlikely to get much or any water on them, unless hosing the bike. But sure, you could seal the thing 100% with a little silicone, once you decide on your rpm setting. I'm happy with 11,800....seems to meet my needs for a variety of reasons, but I haven't sealed anything. I don't think the solid state goodies in the light are very susceptible to water as long as it can drain and dry, IMHO. YMMV.

And to address the other commentary about the merits of a shift light...as I said in my original post, I've been using them for years. I've been driving drag cars for a long time, using the shift light...just like every OTHER racer out there. Formula One cars have 'em. Sports cars have 'em. GTP cars, Spec racers, everything fast has 'em. But do I use it for every gear change? Hell no, of course not. I shift by feel and ear, just like all of you do every day. But when it comes to full-rpm blasting, I'm betting all of us look at the tach....well, all of us except me. I look down the road. Eyes forward. I don't look at the shift light or the tach. When the motor reaches 11,800...EXACTLY 11,800, I see the light in my peripheral vision and snickclick....next gear. Obviously, I have half a brain to know when I'm approaching those lofty rpms, so I'm ready when the light flicks on. There is no distraction, there is no guessing, there is no drawbacks. I'm willing to say....in direct response to some of you....that I DO need a light to tell me when to shift...with precision at full throttle, first time, every time. The tach is terrible....can't see what the rpm really is...and we KNOW it's 400 rpm high....so.....what gage do you guys use to be certain of your shift points? The seat of your pants? To tell the diff between 11,600 and 12,200? Or...12,600, which I've done a few times, almost getting tossed over the bars when the engine shuts off. :warranty: No...you're guessing, and guessing with a poor tach. So....why don't you disconnect your tach if you don't need it? Hmmmm.....

To address the "distracting at night" concern, let me point out that it's only going off when you're at 11,800 or whatever....so you're doing something where you're pretty darn sure that flash says it's time to shift...if you want to. (I find that the 11,800 setting gives me a cushion so I'm not a total slave to the light...I can delay a heartbeat if I want) How can that be distracting? Will it surprise you that your motor is at 11,800 when you're laying on the tank at full throttle? Hardly. It's distracting to have to think about it, look at the tach...watch it climb. Nope, not for me. Too distracting. Give me: Flash = shift.

I can tell this mod touched a nerve with a few of you....it immediately drew comments about Suzukis. Hmmmm.... Yeah, well, they ARE faster than us. And you don't care about fast? What's with all the Power Commander and air filter and exhaust posts? Isn't that about more power? Don't you want to know when to shift all that power? I guess the squid factor is making you uneasy. Trust me....nobody will know you have it....it's pretty stealthy. Your Goldwing pals will never see it.

And it's a great tuning tool. Set it for 10,500. Make a mod. With a stopwatch, see how long it takes to get from 5000 [crank throttle, click stopwatch ON] to when you see the light flash [click stopwatch OFF, all the time with your eyes on the road]. Record time, and see if it was a power improvement over the baseline. You get repeatable results, time after time, instead of seat-o-pants guesswork.

Anyway, I like it. I like making high-speed, top end, full acceleration blasts. I live in Florida. Near the beach. Flat. Straight. What else am I gonna do for fun?

[Trace]

How about one more favor Trace..hehe..

Any way you can post a close up of the mounting you did with "less robust" bracket and the screw mount on to the bezel.... Would be great!! 

Not only to know where you mounted, but also to see how the bracket is actually holding the housing of the light... The site is not that specific on the pics.. According to the pics, I would assume the housing could literally slide out when needed without any type of tightening method... Thanks again Trace....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have no pic of the bracket. But it's totally sheitsimple. Drill hole in bezel (off the bike) where YOU think YOU want the light. Put screw thru bracket, but nut on other side, tighten.

The "less robust" bracket makes if much easier to slide the light out of that particular bracket and make rpm changes. Yet it will hold the light plenty tight. No worries. The bigger bracket is for off road or something. But the light is removeable from that, too. However...it's bigger, holds the light further from the bezel, and thus limits how close you can place the light to the center area without interferring with ignition switch "swing".

Seriously, it's no worries. Readily apparent when you have the stuff in your hand.

[The Phantom]

Nice mod and write-up Trace. I'll get one for my bike and follow your tips for the install.

I agree with your points regarding the pros of a shift light; my guess is that if you need to ask why? then you don't need a shift light... I remember running my 383 Chev down the quarter 15 years ago, one hand on the Mr Gasket shifter (LEFT hand of course! :P ), just waiting for that light to go off so I could shift the Top Loader up a gear and nail it again :thumbsup:

On the bike (yeah yeah I know it's been a while, sit down Ian) I love drowning in the noise the donk makes at 10k+, but at those revs I find that there's usually an apex to concentrate on - if not another bike also going just as hard. A little flash will work nicely for me.

[VolatileVFR]

And to address the other commentary about the merits of a shift light...

..................

Anyway, I like it.? I like making high-speed, top end, full acceleration blasts.? I live in Florida.? Near the beach.? Flat.? Straight.? What else am I gonna do for fun?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Very nice..although some have there discrepencies, others are in complete agreement.... I think this was a bit more time put into everything I was trying to say.... Nice write Trace...

Maybe you are right too...go with the color that pleases my interest... Thanks...now, I have to strictly determine that one....

Edited December 20, 2005 by VolatileVFR

[Trace]

I agree with your points regarding the pros of a shift light; my guess is that if you need to ask why? then you don't need a shift light...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Phant,

Yes, you are exactly right. It's that way with most everything. Most people in this world ask "Why" about motorcycles in general....so if you have'ta ask...

Shifting with your left hand, huh? You wacky "Down Under-ers", you! [so what dya think of your Holden getting the Vette motor, changing the steering to the correct side of the car :lol:, and coming to Murka as a Pontiac?]

Oh, by the way, that reminds me. My Vette COMES with a shift light as part of the Heads-Up-Display (known as HUD, it's all the info projected on the windshield, and it's wonderful for mph and tach readings....you just look right thru it the whole time you're driving), but it's nearly impossible the to see the little light and it gives you no warning (it's at redline) and isn't adjustable for a person's shifting style. So....many of us install the Raptor, set it for 6300, pull the next gear before the fuel shutoff violently spoils our fun at 6500.

[The Phantom]

Shifting with your left hand, huh?  You wacky "Down Under-ers", you!  [so what dya think of your Holden getting the Vette motor, changing the steering to the correct side of the car :lol:, and coming to Murka as a Pontiac?]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

(Sorry late response - some crazy pagan festival came along and kept me offline for a few weeks)

It's pretty cool, although it appears that the Goat buyers want something a bit wilder. Holden has just cut production of the Monaro so I guess Pontiac didn't sell enough of them...

There was also an AWD version available here which was a bit of fun, if a bit on the heavy side.

The sedan and ute continue, and the sports models are getting the 6 litre motor now :thumbsup:

[dirtbag]

what about using this thing to trigger a relay to activate the vtec solenoid... thereby achieving a variable vtec engagment point?

[magellan]

what about using this thing to trigger a relay to activate the vtec solenoid... thereby achieving a variable vtec engagment point?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Can you count on the electronics of something that is only designed to trigger a light? I don't doubt that the shift light hardware is decent quality, but using it to control the VTEC engagement might be pushing the envelope. Does the light operate at a full 12 V? If so, I suppose it would work for a relay, but I'd still want the light to work so I would know when the VTEC was engaging.

Heck, try it. I think it's a hell of an idea.

[Trace]

You're on your own with Vtec engagement via shift light. My Vtec engages at 1200 rpm.

[Stéphane]

Do NOT cheap out and secure the clip to the bezel with a cheesy sheetmetal screw, as it will certainly loosen up in no time!  Use a nice stainless 10/32 machine screw (1/2 inch long or so) and nut, drill thru the bezel about an inch down from the top edge, and screw the clip down nice and tight (a drop of Loctite on the nut is a good idea).  Now you can put the bezel back on.  Hopefully, you didn't scuff it....but I'm betting that you did, because you didn't listen to my precaution about using masking tape/towels, etc.  It's your own fault.

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Power and Ground Taps

Toot!  Flash!  [/color]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'd say: Do not cheap out on the connections. They need to be soldered. These connections you have, are guarantee to give you electrical problems down the road.

[Trace]

I'd say: Do not cheap out on the connections. They need to be soldered. These connections you have, are guarantee to give you electrical problems down the road.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Naahhhh....I don't think so. I generally agree with you, and solder everything that's important....except that the shift light draws about "nothing" for current load, so I didn't worry about it in this case. And the key load (the bank-angle indicator wires) did NOT get cut in this hook-up, otherwise I would have definitely soldered the whole connection as a true splice. I did, however put a dab of silicone grease inside the connector before any clamping actions, just for giggles. Again, the connector shown is just a tap into the larger wires, which are important wires. Their continuity is unchanged.

But you point is well taken. Either true crimp connectors or solder is the proper method for anything that draws more than mere milliamps.

[Stéphane]

Naahhhh....I don't think so.  I generally agree with you, and solder everything that's important....except that the shift light draws about "nothing" for current load, so I didn't worry about it in this case.  And the key load (the bank-angle indicator wires) did NOT get cut in this hook-up, otherwise I would have definitely soldered the whole connection as a true splice.  I did, however put a dab of silicone grease inside the connector before any clamping actions, just for giggles.  Again, the connector shown is just a tap into the larger wires, which are important wires.  Their continuity is unchanged.

But you point is well taken.  Either true crimp connectors or solder is the proper method for anything that draws more than mere milliamps.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I wasn't really talking about the light, but to keep corosion away from the coil wires and they sometimes cut the wire when they go in. Since you siliconed it you might get away with it.

[Trace]

I wasn't really talking about the light, but to keep corosion away from the coil wires and they sometimes cut the wire when they go in. Since you siliconed it you might get away with it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, I see your point about that. Come to think of it...I wondered why the engine had a miss after I did this installation...... :goofy:

From my original post:

As you can see, I simply used the crimp-type splice/tap connectors. Works great for these very low amperage applications, but I don't trust them for "serious" power tapping, i.e. anything that should use a fuse, like that old 8-track tape player you've been wanting to add to your Goldwing. Just to avoid any confusion, you can hook this green wire to ANY coil primary wire....but the number coil 2 is simply convenient.

[dirtbag]

You're on your own with Vtec engagement via shift light.  My Vtec engages at 1200 rpm.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

jerk :goofy:

seriously, the vtec is pretty much my only real problem with this bike.

[Whitepine]

I wonder if you could set this up on the bottom edge of the windshield. When it goes off, the top edge would flash your chosen color. That would be pretty cool.

[Snafu]

I'm sure you could. I have my radar led's under the windshild above the dash.

[VF1000R]

Holy old thread revival Batman! :offtopic:

I'm in the "don't need a shift light" crowd. I can tell from the exhaust sound exactly when VTEC is going to kick in. And I can hear and feel when redline is approaching. My Gixxer race bike has a shift light. Never felt the need to use it.

Dirk

[Guest Pete McCrary]

Bump. See my edit (in red) about the horn making the shift light act unruly! :mad:

Trace:

I think you inadvertenly hit on the proper solution right there. Rewire it so the horn blows when it's time to shift. No peripheral vision, no vision required at all - when the horn blares -shift gears. It would be really neat for those of us who have a Stebel.

Or rig it to a device that says "Danger Will Robinson, approaching red line".

Just a thought.

Pete

[Tightwad]

Bump. See my edit (in red) about the horn making the shift light act unruly! :mad:

Trace:

I think you inadvertenly hit on the proper solution right there. Rewire it so the horn blows when it's time to shift. No peripheral vision, no vision required at all - when the horn blares -shift gears. It would be really neat for those of us who have a Stebel.

Or rig it to a device that says "Danger Will Robinson, approaching red line".

Just a thought.

Pete

Now this sounds like fun.....maybe "Engaging Warp Drive" for when the Vtec is about to engage, and "If i give her any more she'll blow" for redline. Now I want to build one just for fun....damn you guys